“This collection has a rebel attitude and a kind heart. The woman is a good girl with a wild soul. She is prim but sexy. Don’t mess with her! The man is her soulmate, a shy genius. They are breaking the rules to make new ones. The clothes take the codes of contemporary formal tailoring and disrupt them with cut, drape, and embellishment. The collection focuses on pure lines, innovative fabrics, considered wildness. This is us. This is Versace!” - Donatella Versace
There is a quiet rebellion in this collection, as Donatella says, a considered wildness, where tailoring is disrupted with drape, print is deconstructed and distorted into embroidery, jacquard and hidden linings, and Atelier Versace fabrics are shredded into new luxurious tweed.
The House’s power tailoring is pushed to extremes. Proportions shift from maxi-length in duster overcoats and tailored dresses, to cropped, prim spencer jackets and miniskirts; hourglass jackets with strict tailored pants, women’s broad-shouldered tailoring with stirrup leggings, men’s wide leg pants with shrunken shirts. Tuxedo tailored pieces, including a modern jumpsuit, have long, strict silhouettes. White pointed swallow tail collars accent women’s light chiffon shirts and dresses. Atelier Versace techniques inform the super refined and molded structure of bustier tops and minidresses. Leather is draped to feel spontaneous but precise in dresses and skirts and for men’s is tailored in bonded leather or in the softest oversized pants.
Signature metal mesh is crafted in a new lighter weight for ready-to-wear and layered over distressed denim. Details include golden Medusa buttons, jewel embroidery, liquid micro sequins, and stacked belt buckles. A rich lipstick red is used full-on against black. Shades of moka, and cocoa browns also interplay with foundational black. The collection’s Wild Barocco appears as a print, knitwear, jacquards and embroidery. It gives an internal opulence to the lining of men’s tailored coats and jackets, and is folded over at cuffs and hems. For women it is in stirrup leggings, a bustier, or an off-shoulder evening gown with high leg slit.
Atelier Versace pieces demonstrate the synergy between the Atelier and ready-to-wear. Column gowns in metal mesh are draped at the waist in new volumes. An embroidery of crystals, crystal chain, and metallic thread becomes an intricate net. An Atelier shredded tweed is meticulously hand-embroidered from strips of chiffon, tulle, silk organza, and crystal and used for men’s and women’s.
A new nappa plongé leather introduced for bags has a feeling of rich, inherited softness. Kleio, a new Medusa ’95 crossbody bag, is pillow-like in appearance and feel with a contrast between the soft leather and the metal of the House’s signature Medusa ’95. The Protea, a new shoulder bag, is folded in the same soft leather and worn extra large, medium and small. Men’s Medusa Biggie and Cargo bags are updated in seasonal colors and material finishes including faux pony hair.
Shoes are fierce or totally refined. The new Slice heel has a slim stiletto look from the side and impactful block from the back. Heritage Gianni Ribbons decorate Ballerina styles with embroidery, a leopard motif, or in tweed. Texano boots for both men and women scale-up to thigh-high and taper to a definitive point at the toe. Men’s Villa drivers are available in smooth leather or colorful shearling.
Creative Director: Donatella Versace
Styling: Jacob K
Casting: Piergiorgio Del Moro
Hair: Guido Palau
Makeup: Pat McGrath
Music: Frédéric Sanchez
Featured Music:
A Place to Bury Strangers: I’m Hurt (Trentemoller Remix)
Thomas Brinkmann: Ghostrider The Suicide Remixes
Louisahhh: Love is A Punk ( Vitalic Remix )
22 фев 2024
