You're doing it all wrong. You are supposed to paint the plug wires, belts, radiator hoses and clamps, and of course get as much overspray on the radiator as possible 🤣
I agree that the H has been done, however, no one does these videos like you do! If I was restoring an H, yours would be the first channel I would check.
Hi Toby, I agree, health and safety gets so over-presented that some people risk stopping thinking for themselves. I can't imagine anyone in the farming community not knowing that narrow tractors are more tippy than wide ones. Obviously those who made the comments meant well bit it's this nanny approach that may hold many of us back. It risks us relying on someone else and not thinking for ourselves.
Not everyone grew up on a farm. What a person from a farming community takes for granted as common knowledge is not so common outside of a farming community. It would be more accurate to assume that people learned in grade school science class that a triangle is less stable than a square.
Restoring a Farmall tractor is a labor of love and so relaxing. A massive amount of greasy dirty work for sure. The last 1951 Farmall M that I did took me 2 years to complete. Great detailed video. Thank you for taking me along.
I like the old saying ' If it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality and I hope that fella that made sure that adjustable pulley makes sure it stays that way. Good for you telling the viewers what you said about tip overs as it can be a huge can of worms. Great video and roll them out as they come as they are informative.
My first tractor was an IH 444 Diesel, the first things I did was put seat belts, harnesses, and a roll bar on the machine because I used it to work up wood for heating my home. The terrain was hilly and if I had exceeded the design limits of the machine , who was I to blame.? Toby did not design the FARMALL. TOBY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR POLICING THE WORLD. Thanx for the great videos Toby. 😃
You are correct. I haven't seen front weights at LeSueur. Dad was the only one who rolled a narrow front tractor, but he wasn't on it. The plow trip rope was secured too well when it pulled the seat off,and he fell off when the plow hooked a rock. The rest of his life he cautioned us how not to tie the rope. Thank you.
The small gas tanks for the distillate tractors are pretty easy to find. Put one on for looks only, I think they are interesting and would fill the hole in that really nice hood in a good and easy way. More original too. I've done this on my M's and H. It seems all the old ones were set up for them and all the newer one weren't. (unless that's a regional thing) So a war year tractor would look best to me with it. I haven't added the fuel lines and 3 way valve but that would be even better. Maybe I'll even do that some day.
Agree. Just like the aesthetic oil cooler lines on the D2. The kizmet of finding the nearly perfect distillate hood sez it must be done - with faux fuel lines no less! Smile. Great videos.
@@kylechrist yeah I know and it’s sad. Would be nice to see it finished and open up the shop to work on an RD6 restoration instead of having to move a 1/2 finished tractor out of the way then bring it back in. I’m not a big CAT guy but enjoy seeing different tractors worked on
Excellent video it's nice that you take it apart before you paint it and clean up the dirt and grease I have seen a lot of aerosol overhauls and paint jobs that are painted right over the grease
My late Dad always used to say, “if you try to idiot-proof something, they’ll just build a better idiot.” It’s no wonder that common sense is so lacking today.
Robert Heinlein, science fiction writer, born about 1905,Annapolis graduate,gunnery officer,wrote in the early 1960s,"If you explain something so carefully nobody could possibly misunderstand, somebody will". I think that has been a problem since one individual was trying to explain about how to knap flint. And the hazards associated. Some people just don't or won't or can't pay attention. Is it worse nowadays ? Not sure. There was that famous court case,now years ago,the woman put her poodle in the microwave. Farm families used warm ovens for all sorts of things. Not hot ovens. Two different things,try to explain that to the poodle. Common sense is the least common of the senses.
I love how you keep the project moving by posting frequently. I really enjoy you explaining what you are doing and why or why not. Great video series! Jeff
Another really interesting vid. Watching over in England, love to know why American larger tractors have shafts for back axles when over here mostly all English and European tracters have a hub with studs and nuts?? I used to drive a Case 2090 with those shaft axles, the wheel clamps had been loosend once (never found out why??) but they were so hard to keep them tight again after that. We thought afterwards, " leave them alone, unless it's it absolutely essential!!! Very good tractor otherwise, especially the engine. Martin.
I made some spring pullers of different lengths out of some thin high tensile fencing wire with a small hook bent into one end then the other end wrapped around a bolt that is used as a T handle. I've found them much easier to use when fitting springs than using pliers or vice grips.
I like the front weights. My Dad flipped an H backwards onto himself. He was hospitalized for 6 weeks with a total of 9 surgeries. Front weights might have bought him more time to clutch it to stop the flip.
Or an after-market ROPS bar & seatbelt. More people have been killed in Australia on old grey Fergy's than any other tractor and they will rear up or roll over in a flash. People used to drive with their foot on the clutch when plowing, ripping or pulling a heavy trailer so as to be ready to dump the power, then snap the front axle in the middle when they come down. Old tractors aren't harmless toys & require plenty of knowledge to operate safely and some modern upgrades like ROPS & seatbelt and P.T.O shaft covers to give the operator a chance of surviving in the event of things going wrong.
I nearly had that experience with an M. My brother had left a series of ditches in the end of the field when he plowed it. When I hit the first one, I went for the clutch. It got past the third ditch before I could dump the power and that third bounce was well past 45 degrees. After that I made sure to drop to first gear in that area until I got it disked smooth. I left water marks on the seat.
A kid had tried to drive across an old dried out pond with a grain truck. The bottom crust broke through. They were trying to pull the truck out with the H and an 801 Ford. The guy on the Ford clutched to grab a gear. All of the weight shifted to the H and it flipped.
@@dustyfarmer I worked for a farmer to put myself thru college. An old cow had died in cold weather and frozen solidly to the ground. I took the little Ferguson tractor with a blade on back we used for small chores and hooked her up to drag her away. But surprisingly instead of an easy pull she was an immovable object. The Fergy reared up good on me and I was rather scared of it ever after.
Haha, I'm totally with you with obvious stuff. Then I remembered all rear view mirrors in the US have "Objects in mirror are closer than they appear" stenciled on them 😂
I changed a hood on a H years ago , all I could find was a hood with the two holes . I found a electric panel hole blank to fit well . 2 bucks , sand blast for paint. Pop it in and bend the tabs .
BTS video idea, turning a distillate tank into a yeti style thermos for beverage of choice complete with camelback style hose. It is a win win, no need to fill a hole in the hood, and a cold drink at the ready when out running . . .
@William Schmiedel > a cold drink at the ready We just used to rinse out an old Clorox bleach bottle a few times, fill it with water and throw it in the deep freeze the night before. It'd melt into ice cold water as the day went along.
We had a M H and a 460 all tri cycle front and never tiped any of them just use common sense and they are fine. Great for turning sharp at the end of a field to head back in opposite direction from which you came. Just use caution on side hills no unnecessary sharp turns.
The "pot metal" pieces on the tractor, do you know what they actually are made out of? I've heard of Zamak, a cheap zinc aluminum alloy, sometimes being called pot metal. Zamak is often used in die cast toys like Hot Wheels and the like. I wonder if its the same material used on the H. Thanks, and congrats on another great episode.
Ah looks like Flux Capacitor could added to it. With the tire rims only looks like DeLorean from Back to the Future 3. Patch the exhaust hole on the right hood. You can do it! Thank fer the update
People: "The nanny state is telling us what to do and we don't want it to do that!" Same People: "You should warn the viewers that tall narrow things can tip over". Use your brains, people, use your brains.
3:58 you'd be surprised how many people don't know this and end up tipping their tractors. Don't take balance as a common thing among people, because it's not. :))
I noticed some irregular areas on the side of the torque tube as you were explaining the size difference vs the M. Was that just a rough casting or has that one been repaired at some point?
For those who insist a narrow front is less stable than a wide front, are you considering the fact that the wide front axle is mounted to a pivot in the center? Effectively, there's no difference between the two configurations until the wide front pivots to its stops. The perception of increased safety is an illusion you shouldn't rely on to stay safe.
@@squatch253 My older friend Donny,since passed,pointed out to me in the early 1960s when alternators first showed up,there were two model years where such as fleet or heavy duty purchases were made,GM supplied generators preferentially and knowledgeable owners preferred them. They already had the stuff necessary to repair and rebuild,and let others deal with potential problems. The wiring harness and adjustments are simpler with a generator. And diodes do let go. And modern reman alternators can be bloody awful. So there is a lot of positive argument in favour of your choice.
yes it is common sense but that means everybody has it and uses it. What I have heard over the years is people forget they have a three wheeler instead of a 4 wheeler and forget that they turn way faster and sharper. Sure glad that your part came. just remember there motto, neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stay these carriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds. so if it was sleeting or was windy then they have a excuse. 🤣🤣 Maybe it wasn't you, but I thought you painted the super M with out the hubs on the axles. Took off to pain and back on to move it. Otherwise would you want the centers in the final location for painting so I leaves witness marks that are either hidden or blend in?
Belarus tractors are using the same idea making the steering wheel rod go into a opening in the radiator. Never heard from any owner that has caused serious issues. I'm really interested on did the IH Farmall have ever issues with breaking rear axels or trashed key ways on the rear axel?
In areas that grew sugar beets, the right hand rear wheel was slide out to the end of the axle to accomadate the sugar beet harvester. Right hand rear axles broke from the extra weight.
@@mikewatson4644 That is very useful information. Makes sense that axels start to break when the weight is increased. I think it has also to do how wide spread the front and rear wheels are?
@@SuperMAZ007 Yes. To mount the beet harvester the left axle was close to the tractor. It seldom broke. The right was much further out. In our area, Sugar beet were planted on 22" rows. The front axle was spaced for 66" (straddle 3 rows). The left rear followed the left front at the 66" spacing, while the right rear was 22" further out to leave room for the beet harvester. The beet harvester was mounted on the front right side of the tractor and had an elevator that extended back to a cart that was pulled behind. So the right rear axle not only had the extra weight to carry, it was extended out an additional 22". The beet harvester had points in the ground that had to be pushed through the ground to lift the beets, increasing the load on the axle.
@@mikewatson4644 That explains the wear and tear. I remember from a older man who had a overhead loader on a Belarus tractor that had the same issue of rear axel and axel bearings breaking. Because the loader mounted directly on the rear axel housing the wheels had to be extended outwards and turned so the loader would clear out. I think the displacement on the weight made the heavy load all fall on the weakest point of the axel. Another issue very common is when people leave the rear axel hub not secured properly. Meaning a loos hub would over time ruin the keyway and the rear axel would be come trashed. So your info on the IH pulling a beet harvester is definitely sheading the light on why combined weight and load can make a huge difference in the over all life cycle of the tractor.
I'll bet you never use that used thrust bearing again. I reckon if you have to split a tractor to get at it you won't be fitting a second hand one unless they are no longer available.
