The main reason you add a tiny amount of pressure to the gas pedal as you lift the clutch is prevent Deceleration Fuel Cutoff when you lift the clutch pedal. If you lift the clutch without any gas, the car's computer will shutoff the fuel injectors which introduces a small amount of braking into the drivetrain, which is usually sudden and jerky. Introducing pressure to the gas pedal _can_ match the revs on an upshift, especially on cars without rev hang, but that's not the main reason why it makes the gear change smooth. I've also found that steadily increasing the pressure on the gas as the clutch steadily comes up also promotes smooth gear changes. For a quick, smooth upshift you should do the following: 1. Decide you need to shift up to the next gear. 2. Move your hand to the shifter. 3. Simultaneously lift off the gas and stomp the clutch. (minute timing differences between engines with or without rev hang) 4. Shift to the next gear quickly, but without using excessive force. 5. The instant the next gear is fully engaged, lift the clutch quickly at first, slow down at the bite point, then quickly again at the end, while simultaneously applying careful and steadily increasing pressure on the gas pedal.
Yes, but only a small amount like 10% throttle. If any more where it leads to acceleration of the car, you end up slipping the clutch and your car won't grab properly. This technique only for casual driving. When spirited driving, you have a similar technique, but you have to remember to let the revs drop, as higher your revs, the more revs drop between gears. Also Flicking your throttle up with your foot is what I do if I am using 25% or more throttle. If you don't, your clutch foot will likely be very fast that your revs would climb up because your throttle foot isn't fast enough.
@@doctorsocrates4413 this makes a lot more sense thank you guys, I just bought an old manual truck and no one ever makes videos on slow ass old trucks, I think this is the exact reason why my shifts from 1st to 2nd make the car bounce
in my c6 it seems 1st to 2nd and maybe 3rd jerks a bit upshifting is it bad that i add like 10%gas THEN release the clutch It makes my upshifts like butter So Foot off gas > Clutch down Change gears > Foot on gas just a tiny bit like 10% > then i release the clutch (I dump it and no jerk) Im just wondering if its bad for the clutch because i hit the gas first (I mean its smooth like butter so it should be good?
Thanks Ashley. Good advice for all drivers and a nice recap for us experienced drivers. Reinforcing good habits will hopefully override long term bad ones.🌞👍🌞
Great video Ashley 👍 I was taught the way you just showed. But my car since passing my test has really high pedals with me having little feet not a good combo 😂 but I've managed to get my seating position perfect now and can finally plant my heel on the floor to pivet between the pedals which is so much more comfortable!
Hi Ash! I'd love to see you react to a 'uk bad drivers compilation', it would be really interesting to see whether the cammer is in the wrong or whether it is in fact the person they're trying to criticise. Cheers!
Just seen this one, love my automatic and now would never go back to manual, I'm a lazy driver for pleasure only but my working life driving started off in a vehicle with a crash gearbox and no power steering, fun eh, it was a Leyland Leopard, the other one I drove regularly had a dog leg gearbox which had first gear as far left as you go then down then rest of forward gears in usual H fashion, reverse was next to 4th at top right corner, this was Mercedes 608D ,would love to see you attempt these
I've always considered the foot movement to be essentially a scissor movement. Your position on the clutch is a reverse image of your position on the accelerator....when one is fully depressed, the other is fully released; and all points in between. Thinking of it like this helps a learner to avoid getting all foot-fumbled. Clutch slipping can come later.
During my hgv training my instructor said to use the palm of the hand to shift the gear knob and not grab with fingers too tightly, but enough it gives you a more tactile feel to the gearstick
Watching any video is helping me right now. I’m currently going through the process of starting my instructor training. Waiting for my dbs certificate to come through which was dispatched yesterday
Hi Ashley. I've often (to be fair only twice, by instructors, but I only know three instructors) have been called out by my friends on my use of gears. While they (the relevant instructors) feedback that my "situational awareness and vehicle control is natural and effective", my "lack of break pedal use and reliance on engine breaking, albeit smooth and appropriate for road conditions" (still quoting) "might mislead other drivers to my actual pace due to lack of break pedal use". I learned to drive on a race track, at a ,what I conciser a young age ( 198.. cough) 12 years old. Not karts, but 1.0L to 1.5L tin top. Nova, etc. Then to Maestro and the big leagues of Montego. It's a habit I struggle to break. I drive within the speed and or road limits at all times and don't see the need for break application from most normal road speeds. I have started to cover the break pedal to get the lights to illuminate, but often forget or neglect this as my concentration is forward and subtle covering of the throttle happens without thinking. I was thinking about doing an advanced driver instructor course to weed out or refine current driving habits. Is this still a relevant course these days? By the way I really enjoy your videos, you're balanced fair, and agitated in the right way. A rare mix. Be good, drive safe.
Nice shoes, I’m nearly 66 and find my legs ache if I have my ankle as pivot so have to manage, but agree with most of what you’re said. Have learnt over years to adapt my driving to allow for advancing years.
Fit a quickshifter, and practice heel n toe, sorted 😁 Experience and being patient, learners always feel there's too much to learn so get stressed out to easy by thinking there's more than there really is.
The reason for the difference in depressing the clutch and allowing it back up is that when you press it down the plates are coming apart. No need to come apart slowly. When the pedal lifts you are joining them together and they may well be rotating at significantly different speeds. If they bang together really suddenly they could start bouncing apart and back together, possibly a few times. If you suddenly add a lot of gas you might likely create the famous "kangaroo" effect. Which experienced driver find amusing to watch.
It's the same reason why you should never have your "relaxed and light foot" on the clutch when not shifting gears. This tiny pressure on the pedal makes the clutch wear out badly. Some people got to the garage repeatedly over decades because of that...
People also think that using the clutch to slow yourself down is good, it's really not, it just forces huge amounts of unnecessary engine torque through your clutch disk and wears it even quicker.
For people just learning to drive, you can ignore the idea of double clutching for now as it is an advanced technique that even some race car drivers do not use as it is not necessary for smooth gear changes. Rev matching is the technique that Ashley is talking about here. Thanks for the video Ashley! Something I might disagree on is blipping the throttle when changing up gear with the exception of maybe 1st to 2nd as in rwd cars this can cause excess torque which could lead to wheel spin or oversteer. Other than that great video!
The way my folks taught me is to not grip the gearstick at all, but to instead slightly cup your hand and place it on the left or right side of the gearstick, and gently push.
Emigrated to usa in 1988 and drove automatics out here. Had one manual car out here many years ago. Recently, 3cweekscago, went back to manual and still getting re-caquainted. Will find your videos helpful in being smooth.
This video definitely helped me, I gotta get off the clutch a bit slower when going from 1-2 and 2-3. I don't really stall when getting going as I am confident and smooth with that part but putting it into the next gear I try to do it quickly so I don't hurt the motor and I always jerk forward like the car is trying to launch when I shift into second and third, I've spun my tires going into second and it's 100% because I let off the clutch too quickly
Good advice there Ashley. Even the time served veterans can benefit as bad habits can creep in 🤔 - I won't name and shame them though lol. Although it is quite feasible to have a "clutchless" gearchange - that's for a more advanced driver - you're less likely to have a smooth gearchange and, if incorrectly attempted, could ruin your gearbox very quickly. With regard to an automatic box.... if you take something from the 1970's it really is not all that great but, from the mid 90's on - vast improvements were made and there was, unlike the older transmission, significantly less power loss experienced between the engine and the "driving" wheels. A comfortable driving position is a key factor for sure but people should also wear suitable clothing/footwear that does not restrict your ability to move freely or, with footwear, some types - such as flip flops/high heels - really are to be avoided. Stay safe everyone 👍.
@@Jonc25 errrmmm.... Don't try to squeeze into size 10's lol..... but it brought back a memory..... Size 9 Dr Martens in a Rover Metro = a slightly interesting drive - pedals in that car were so close together that I was better off wearing trainers 😆.
@@grahamnutt8958 '"Clutchless" once drove a Leyland Terrier back from Aberystwyth to Birmingham with no clutch, because the boss was to tight to get it recovered. Those were the days. 🙂
@@Jonc25 😆😆 Austin Allegro 1750 HL back in 1991 and a 7.5tonne Man 6.250 (I think) 1995 Manchester to a little village called Stanwell (about 1 mile from the Heathrow cargo hubs) - breakdown recovery was definitely off the menu on both occasions 🤔. Not much fun but, thankfully, traffic was very light. I certainly would not wish to repeat those experiences.
7:36 This was really helpful and I think this is something I am doing wrong. Literally just got my first car and after some gear changes it has absolutely no power or acceleration. Garage said it's fine. I think maybe im off power too long on shifts and revs are dropping too low during the change? Think I am also changing up too early too. I can see you are going almost to 30 in 2nd.
You leave revs to going down so much. When you go on second 3000 rpm and change gear up, you have to lift clutch pedal on 2000rpm. When you lift clutch with 1500 rpm car slow down, dont have energy and jumps.
Two observations I made during this video, 1. Your thumbs are tucked in on the steering wheel (I was told not to do this incase you clip a kerb or the wheel is jolted from your grip) 2, you don't use the palming technique when changing gear ( I found this technique very relaxing and you let the car/ gear lever do the work) as I said just my observations.
Responses to your observations. 1. Driving myth. 2. The palming technique is useful when people learning aren’t using the correct pressure to select the required gear. I don’t have that problem 👍🏼 Thanks, Ashley.
Regarding left foot speed, it seems a common lacking on knowledge. You only need to go slowly at and through the biting point. For example, if your clutch has 5 inches of travel it might go something like: - Clutch down 5 inches fast - Clutch up 2 inches fast to biting point - Pause - Clutch up 1 inch slow whilst feeding in some gas - Clutch up 2 inches fast, gas should now be at the desired position Being able to do step 2 fast requires some finesse and practice, and obviously the travel distance and biting point are going to vary by vehicle. Which is why you learn by doing it slowly, then getting faster when you get a feel for it. It's also why you depress the clutch fully rather than going just beyond the biting point (3 inches down in this example), it's much easier to judge. Once you get the hang of it you can do it without a pause, and even start feeding in the gas in step 2. Also generally the slow part needs to be slower in low gears, whereas high gears is more of a medium speed. Anyway, maybe that helps someone that feels like their gear changes take forever to have the know how of where to make some improvements.
To preserve the life of your clutch you should, as a general rule when changing gears (and not moving from a stop) not give the car gas when the clutch is partially engaged. This can cause a burning smell that you may recognise when you have revved your engine with your foot on the clutch. What you should do instead: Give the car gas when the clutch is fully depressed
@@AKAMustang Sorry I didn't clarify, I mentioned in another comment that I disagree about giving gas when up shifting and catching it at the bite is a good way to explain smooth downshifting :)
An alternative to setting the gas for upshifts I've found is if you apply very gentle pressure on the gear selector against the next gear gate, it will fall into the next gear when it wants to, letting you come off of the clutch very very quickly, with no jerking or lurching of the car. This is because you're feeling when the synchronizers will have the easiest time doing there job, which is when the gear would want to mesh anyways. On changes between shorter gears, like 1st to 2nd, you may need to just briefly brush past the bite point as you come off the clutch, but you can still get into the next gear. From 2nd or 3rd and 4th to 5th I've found that you can very easily press the clutch, apply gentle pressure on the gear selector until it falls in, and then very quickly come off the clutch. I live in America, so it's possible that this method isn't desirable because of how different our roads are, or possibly cars found in the city there have significantly shorter gearing, making this method a little less effective.
Hi Boris, I know it's been very long that you wrote this comment, do you need high rpms to do this? Also how can I carry out this method when changing from 1st to 2nd. And does that mean it's not about clutch release timing but rather gear selector movement timing, right?
@@qaisersells You do not need high rpms to do this. It is about when you release the clutch, but I use the sensation of the gear meshing as a indicator that the transmissions speed very closely matches the engine's, and thus it is time to release the clutch. Make sure the gear is fully meshed before you release the clutch, and most importantly do not be forceful with the gear selector, use as little force as you can to change gears so that you can feel out the gate you're engaging. This experience is based off of my driving of a FWD transverse engine vehicle, which uses linkages to connect the gear selector to the transmission, unlike longitudinal RWD applications where the gear selector acts directly on the transmission. The linkages somewhat numb the feeling from the transmission, so if you have trouble feeling what I am describing in a transverse layout car, see if you don't have a friend or family member with 3 pedals and a longitudinally mounted engine that would be willing to let you drive it. The sensation is more obvious at higher RPMs because higher RPMs put more work load on the transmission because of the increased input shaft speed, and this makes it more communicative than at lower RPMs, but it can be felt at all RPMs. Like I said, though, wider ratio gaps may require more controlled use of the clutch. Simply brushing by the bite point briefly on the clutch's way out should be enough to smooth out any driveline vibrations. All of this being said, I am no professional, I just sim race and beat on my daily.
@Boris Hi Boris, thanks ever so much for the advice and replying to my comment. I am going to try this and see how it goes on. I have always struggled with making my gear changes smooth and I have always ruined the clutch of my cars... I just want to make my current clutch last as long as it is supposed to. Nonetheless, wish you a good life. 👍.
Why would you need to blip the throttle when you're upshifting? The engine speed will be lower than what it was before the gear change. You only need to touch the gas pedal during downshifts, since it'll be when engine will actually have higher speed after the gear change.
Thats exactly what i was thinking! Surely blipping the throttle when upshifting would increase the gap between the wheel and engine revs? Pretty confused as I thought rev-matching was just for downshifting....
No you dont understand When you shift the gear from 1 to 2, The rpm of the gears will increase instantly. Becayse ur using LIGHTER transmission now. So it spins faster. But ur engine will be at the same RPM it was when u were on gear 1 if you don’t blip the throttle. And then the clutch will sync them But if you blip the throttle to ANTICIPATE the future RPM of the gear 2 transmission, the difference will be small and you will not need to hold biting point for very long at all. When going DOWN a gear (in regular downshift when you engine brake first) Ur engine RPM and transmission RPM will both be decreased Actually while typing i realisd i dont understand it myself
Really enjoyed this one. Didn’t know about the blip going up as well, usually try and rev match going down… it’s going to be weird doing blip going up but would get rid of the jerkiness going from 1st to 2nd, etc. Nice joke at the end too haha
Automatic! 😃 The S-Tronic gearbox on my S3 is incredible. I had that remapped at the same time as the engine. Manual mode and the steering wheel paddles is good, however the launch mode is epic 😂 not used that for a lot of years now actually. Hmm, may need to revisit that one!
@@devon896 dude, you have no idea what you're talking about. The torque converter is just an equivalent of a clutch (not really but it serves a similar function) and that's all it does. There is a separate oil pump which provides pressure for the operation of the gearbox, they have been electronically (by a computer) controlled for a long long time now, the first ones were controlled by pressure.
@@devon896 bro, you literally said that older ones used torque converters to change gears, not only is this statement false, you were implying that newers do no use them. No need to get all defensive...
@@devon896 you assumed I didn't know how AT transmissions work, you either made a false statement assuming it doesn't matter, or you don't know anything about them yourself, now you get all mad because I corrected you comment. Get a hold of yourself. Everyone makes mistakes, it's how we deal with them that matters.
A lot of instructors dont go into detail about how to change gears properly, rev matching is an essential thing to know because most of the time when a person just passes their test, if they dont crash their car they will most likely rip their clutch out instead unless they know how to do it properly.
Lots of interesting points as usual - thank you. In particular the tip about pressing the clutch down quickly and fully is one I'll try to learn from. What are your thoughts on sustained rev gearchanges?
But if you change up the gear, the revs should be lower for the same speed in a lower gear? If you change from 1st to 2nd at 20 km/h ATMs 2500 revs, the revs will be around 1600 for the same 20 km/h. Im not sure why I should give gas and bring the revs higher when changing up a gear?
What’s your opinion on skipping gears? When leaving roundabouts straight onto a 70mph road I often go from gear 2 -> 4 -> 6 , just wanted you opinion on wether it’s best to work through the gears in turn or not
It just depends on how much torque or "oompf" your car has in that particular gear. Unless you are cruising you should be able to accelerate or brake on demand.
Skipping gears is perfectly permissible, both up and down the box. It’s vehicle dependent though, so it can’t be taught as part of a driving test. New drivers tend to have low powered cars, so can’t realistically do this anyway. I often 1st, 3rd then 6th if I’m driving slowly in my car, as it is quite light and has a lot of torque. If I use a work van it’s not really possible, due to a gutless engine, massive turbo lag and super long gearing.
I really struggle from 1st to second, im used to driving really sloppy manuals and recently got a diesel manual and i stress out changing from 1st to 2nd coz i can't seem to do it smoothly
Wow this is such a informative video, I will definitely be making some changes to the way I drive and hope I understand it correct, can't wait to be able to drive my car without it jerking a bit during a gear change haha.
I have 10 years old auto with manual trans...where revs are flying down when i am changing gear up, so i need little bit add gas about 3cm before to match revs on bitting point.
Not when u add a tiny bit at the right time, you clutch will barely slip and u get a smooth gear change. Not getting smooth gear changes constantly wears the clutch faster anw.
@@mostafamougharbel2322 how much rpm can I look to add? I know every car is different but a ballpark range? , and I have known how to drive manual for a while, but perfecting the skill of driving stick is something I have been trying to work on
@@velocity-xi6001 u barely touch the gas pedal, it's a bit hard to achieve at first, but u will get it as you practice. like literally adding 100-200rpm u do it while lifting to biting point and u left off. I am so used to driving manual at this point that I lift to biting point in like 0.5 sec tops, I clutch in and clutch out right to biting point and I am already on my gas pedal again. Quick 1 motion doing like 3-4 things at a time.
@@mostafamougharbel2322 I know he said it in the video, but this vid is old so Ashley won't respond. How come you'd ever need to blip on an upshift? I understand the downshift as you need more RPM's, but if you upshift at the right time I don't understand why it would be necessary to add that bit of gas right before the upshift. Aren't you supposed to be on your correct RPM already to upshift anyways?
Piotr please dont spread misinformation like that. A modern gearbox with synchromeshes does not require double clutching when going up or down the gears. You only need to do that on a classic car if its old enough that it doesnt have synchros. Youre wasting your time doing that with a modern car
Hi Ashley, sorry, just a little digression...I have a question regarding changing lanes on a dual carriageway: are you supposed to change lanes completely if a car is slightly parked on your lane or can you pass it with adequate clearance by maintaining a safe distance while passing?
Hi Grace, Good question. I would say it depends, if you shortly need to be back in the left lane taking your position from the parked vehicles but a safe distance would let other people around know you are going to move back to the left. If there are no other cars around you, lane changing fully is not confusing to anyone and provides less risk as you pass the parked vehicle. Hope this helps? Ashley.
3:55, you can actually go diagonally, at least that's how you do it in LHD cars. What I like in my Astra K is that 3rd is slightly more to the right than usual, it's impossible to misshift in this car.
Gear levers never go diagonally, they are spring loaded to slip back th neutral, which moves them to the right when going from 2nd to 3rd. If going from 6th to 3rd the gear lever springs left into neutral. Either your gear selectors are worn or you are mistaking a vertical then horizontal then vertical movement for a diagonal.
@@Grahamvfr I'm quite sure the proper way from 2nd to 3rd is in one go, diagonally. At least that's how we do it with right hand in LHD cars in Europe. It may be that there's an H pattern, but you can still push it like it were diagonal. I'm talking about new cars, so no worn gear selectors. From 3rd to 2nd you feel more that there's an H pattern and from 4th to 5th it may be like you say, but you can still go in one go. Proper way may be first to neutral, then right, then up. Probably depends on the car, some go easier diagonally, same as 2nd to 3rd, in Astra K it doesn't.
@@Gr1mR34p3r85 thank you for your reply, and I fully understand you're comments. My comment was posted to try and avoid the term diagonal on a channel that a lot of my pupils watch. In the early days of learning, pupils will try to force the gear lever in a diagonal direction which causes mis shifting or the lever balks. Because they see that 3rd is in a diagonal postion to 2nd, they try and move it like a bishop in chess rather than moving it like a Knight. As I haven't driven a k astra, I apologise.
@@Grahamvfr Actually 4th to 5th is same as 2nd to 3rd, just tried it today. At least in Astra K, in previous Clio 3 I really had to go like a knight. Only 6th to 3rd and 3rd to 1st you have to go in the H pattern. Makes sense they did it like this as it prevents misshifts. You can't really misshift in an Astra. But I guess it's still not advisable to shift from 2nd to 3rd during overtaking, I think I still hit a wall between 1st and 3rd one time, though it's way rarer than in some Italian or French cars. In those even 3rd to 2nd instead of 4th misshift happened to me once. Only gear selection I hate doing in Astra is 5th to 6th, but it's not really needed outside of highway.
Ashley, pressing the accelerator when changing UP a gear. I thought to make it smooth wait for the engine revs to drop down and then bring the clutch up smoothly. Thought you only press accelerator when downshifting to match the higher revs the lower gear will have? Surely if you press the accelerator when shifting up the car is going to lurch forward to match?
It helps if in your car your revs drop quickly or you can only change gear slowly, I think some modern cars hold the revs up for you between changes too
Sorry about that other comment Alex. In an automatic there are a lot less things you have to think about but there are still some things that you should not do in an automatic
There are many videos which explain these things such as why you should always come to a complete stop before changing between reverse and drive and other such things
I’ve been driving for 2 years , just a light hearted joke for all the driving school fans . Think we can all tell what kind of a driver ItsHobo is 😂 💥 🚗
@@konradgreen2567 aye but surely this is totally dependent on circumstance, vehicle, gear ratios and perhaps several other factors. I don't recall "skipping gears" was mentioned in this video, but it's quite acceptable to accelerate in 1st and 2nd gear, then shift from 2nd to 4th to cruise - but for the mass majority of people that do that "adding a bit of gas" thing in this circumstance would actually be doing something counter-productive, as the revs would likely need to drop (a lot) from 2nd gear 30mph to 4th gear 30 mph - so you wouldn't add any gas in that example.
@@GaffaTV good point. Maybe he thought short shifting and rev matching is too advanced for this video? Is a bit odd tho, as it goes hand in hand with smooth gear changes, especially on down shift. Makes me wonder if he's going to do a dedicated video on it, short shifting and double de-clutching?
I watched almost whole video to the final advise: 'buy an automatic'. It's really funny but it's the future as you said, nowadays it's no for all buy a automatic car due to the cost but I hope before England make the whole transition the technology and the cars manufacture put the prices lower because it won't be able to the work people to reach one, as we do today. Greetings from Manchester!
There's no need to be *Russian* off of the clutch. I always hover my foot over the clutch, it would actually be less comfortable to rest it by taking it away.
That can wear your clutch out, and is also bad practice. Even light pressure on the clutch can cause unnecessary wear. Also its better to make sure you always come all the way off it, as any bumps to the car can cause your leg to move, the clutch to slip and not deliver the power needed.
@@Grahamvfr Exactly. Driving should be about roadsmanship not machine operation. I was taught cadence braking but that has been replaced by ABS just like modern cars don't need a choke because they have fuel injection.
My wifes Citroen C4 Automatic has a standard clutch not hydraulic, and I hate it, when it changes gear it's like when you lift the clutch without any gas, and briefly slows the car before allowing the gas to come back on, if you drive like an early learner then it's not bad but for normal driving it winds me up, cannot wait to get her a different car to learn in.
Then get it looked at, maybe by a specialist if your local dealer doesn't encounter those often, my sister's C4 automatic was silky smooth. If it's not changing smoothly, there's something wrong with it.
@@beardyface8492 Oh, that's good to know, I did do some checking around, but a couple forums stated they were like that because it's a standard clutch, thanx though I will take it in, last thing I need is that failing.
@@will4may175 we had a berlingo with the ETG box in it. Shifts were always slow and jerky from nearly new. Trade it in for a newer one with EAT6 proper automatic like we did. Much quicker and smoother
@@jgreen8339 Yeah the C4 auto just removed any confidence in it, especially for overtaking if I need it, we've tried a few auto cars, she likes the new Fiesta, ecosport, and the renault captur, though she may have got her mind on the fiesta, either way the C4 will be gone 😊
@@will4may175 @Will4May I know what you mean. Had to wait ages for it to find a gear or kickdown for overtakes. Dangerous at busy junctions. Wish I'd got the manual ngl. How R&D signed that shite off I don't know. The EAT6 and EAT8 in new peugeots and Citroëns is a Toyota sourced Japanese proper 6 and 8 speed torque converter auto that is light years ahead of the ETG. Quick, smooth shifts. Always seems to be in the right gear - a pleasure to drive. The new fiesta is a decent car. Have only driven a manual version of that which was very nice. Think they have a new 7 speed DCT which I imagine to be decent and punchy with 125 bhp. Sounds a decent choice to me. Wish you both all the best with your car shopping. A great feeling to wave goodbye to the garbage ETG box for good!
@@samwilson5598Heel and toe is a useful technique when going into a corner too fast in too high of a gear. It allows you to save time by being able to brake and get into a lower gear at the same time :)
.....is a technique to change DOWN smoothly. It’s not taught in driving lessons anyway, so I doubt Ashley will be covering it in videos for learners. This video is about changing up.
@@DontPanicDear 7.05 Ashley demonstrates a down change and adds gas to match engine speed to new gear. A lower gear needs more revs than the higher gear for a given road speed. The heel toe technique is a racing technique which is not really appropriate for normal motoring. If you enter a longish bend too fast you can lose a little speed with a slightly wavy course around the bend. This is because on a fixed gas setting if you freeze your foot and negotiate a long bend your speed will drop due to frictional losses. A wavy course increases frictional losses.
keith6400 Nope, he’s still speaking about the second phase of an up-shift which requires a little gas, momentarily before the clutch is re-engaged. I’ve been using H&T gear changes since the day after I passed my test in 1990. Every single down change while braking, as there is no other way of doing it smoothly! Heal & Toe makes driving so much easier and more fluid once mastered. Either driving fast, or more slowly. If you’ve not learned to do it, I suggest you try. It takes about 30mins for the basics. If Ashley was talking about a down change, as zero braking was involved, he would have just been talking about rev matching anyway. This is STILL not something taught to pass the UK driving test, so was not discussed. You were taught to dip the clutch just before standstill, without changing down as you slow. It sounds like you’ve never driven, the way you’re now talking about bends and other such irrelevance to the topic.
Been driving over 10 years always driven manual cars last car was my first automatic and life is just soo much simpler driving automatically brought a manual Nissan qashai I can’t get the bititing point ever right I never stall it but it just doesn’t seem to go into second gear smoothly even after a year of driving the manual qashai just can’t ever feel the biting point right maybe to do with the dual clutch whatever the fock that is lol
@@MrDrewbies whats so funny? Like 80% of the fighting in Europe was on the eastern front.. Soviet Union bore the front of Hitlers army. These are facts.
