Its essentially a straight line rip saw which is commonly found in many cabinet building shops. Cabinet shops buy dried rough lumber in bulk, then run it thru a planer for proper thickness. Its then necessary to create at least one straight edge before sawing it to the desired width. A jointer is used for that in many shops, but a much faster method is to use a straight line saw. They are very expensive to purchase, and due to that they are usually only found in the larger shops.
Very nice set up. I'd like to install some lasers on my edger. That conveyor on the outfeed is a golden option! Do you guys have a trim table after edging ? How do you saw your ends for final dimension?
We do some final trimming and secondary processing in the barn. I haven't shown it yet, but many times we pack saw an entire pallet to a common length.
Just wandering y you didn’t go with woodmizer for a edger Iam still waiting on my mill and edger from woodmizer just curious if I should go with beaker product
I will buy what seems to work best for our operation, whatever brand that is, as long as it's top tier equipment. Baker and Woodmizer are both top tier, but have different capabilities. For edgers, I prefer belt fed and increased trimming room to the right side of the fixed blade for trimming more tapered live edge boards. Baker was better choice for me for both of those reasons. The Baker also can cut 3" thick, which is critical for me. No edger is perfect, but for us, I am convinced I bought the best edger for our needs. It was a custom build, and they have since named it the Hobby Hardwood model. Thanks for watching!
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama that is so awesome to cut 3” materials thank you for your response that makes me feel better about buying the edger please keep up the great work and keep making great videos
Do you still find it necessary to have the straight line rip saw as well as this machine? Why straight line twice, when this can do two straight lines at once?
This is an edger uses high speed, and lower tooth counts blades, and is more "rough" than a SLR, which is designed to produce an 8 foot glue line edge. An SLR won't work on green off the sawmill lumber, where and edger will. Each has it's sweet spot. Typically, once a board has been edged on an edger, we won't re edge it on an SLR.
My edger is a custom build by Baker, but I understand it has become a standard model called the HHA or Robert Milton design. Maximum Flitch Width: 28” (71 cm) with adjustable rail set at 0 or 18” (46 cm) when adjustable rail is used to bypass fixed blade Edging Cut Width: 27/8” to 18” (73 mm to 457 mm) between blades When cutting only one edge, 8” (203 mm) maximum width between fence and blade Board Thickness: 1/2” min. to 2 1/4” max. (13 mm to 57 mm) Board Length: Minimum of 4’ (1.2 m) long and a maximum of 24’ (7.3 m)
Nice! Always wondered what an edger actually did, but never enough to go digging through RU-vid videos. And here you are showing me what it does without me having to hunt for it. :)
Do you cut it at true dimension lumber size or cut so it captures all of the good wood. In other words are you cutting like 3/4 x 5 1/2 or are you keeping 1" thick by random widths? Thanks.
For 4/4 the conventional hardwood scale is used, so the wood is cut to 1 1/8" thick. It dries to 1 1/16" and we hit or miss plane to 15/16". This is where we differ form the industry, we prefer to sell the wood at 15/16" as most woodworkers like to have the thicker wood because there is more meat on it for the same price.
Hello from Shreveport, La. Loving these videos, please keep them coming. I'll swing by the next time we go on vacation in FL. I can tell right now though, it's gonna get expensive quick because I will have an edger in my toolkit now.....
Informative video, Robert, and yes Martha does have the worst job, but she gets more of the money, right, lol. Y’all are still #1, but it take good machines and the knowledge to use them to produce the quality of wood you do. Have a good 4th and God Bless. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad to learn about the custom edger--been thinking about milling. I really have so much to learn here in the Pacific Northwest! The kiln is another expensive piece of the puzzle...
I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos - this is a great machine - what did you customize from the standard Baker Stationary Edger. Thanks for posting Robert -
We worked with Baker to develop a machine that would not only edge green wood off the mill, but would also accurately edge kiln dried rough and kiln dried planed wood. That's a very difficult task for an edger, basically turning it into a production gang saw. We upgraded the electric motors, modified the feed belts, upgraded the lasers, and even had custom blades designed and built just for the purpose.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama thanks - with all these great changes I hope that is not part of their standard edger - I will call on Monday and get my order process started - thanks again
@@MrGwdvideo They have kept the modification on record and all you have to do is ask for the "Robert Milton/Hobby Hardwood Configuration." They have since sold this design to other customers since they built mine, and they keep the design on file for easy reference. They will know what you are talking about. Make sure they put the green lasers on the machine, the red lasers are much weaker and harder to see. Also, I highly recommend that you arrange to go pick up the machine in person, at their facility, and have it set up for "acceptance testing." I do this with every piece of sawmill equipment I purchase, no matter who is the manuafacturer. This way you can run multiple boards though it to make sure its cutting well, following the fence, and that everything is adjusted perfectly before you take it home.
