If you don't already, you should watch Peterson Restorations RU-vid channel. He specializes in restoring early mustangs. He's based out of Harrisburg PA
Fantastic attention to detail. Question - Does the metal come rust protected from the factory? Put a different way, do you rust protect the inner structure before final assembly?
I am planning on going through this right now. with 50K views you are on to something. Those of us taking the next step need the guidance. How is it going? are you still working on this project? I realize I am late to the party.... RP
Thanks for sharing I was interested in getting one someday glad to know it’s not as straight forward as I’d think it would be. Just curious can they preweld for you?
How much have you spent on the metal work, including the Floorplan? I'm ready to pull the trigger on a built body shell from year one, 22k with trunk and doors.
I'm curious myself. My brother keeps talking about these Dynacorn bodies. He thinks it's cheaper than buying an already made Mustang, but I'm not too sure on that front.
Great project! Just curious why you didn't buy an entire Dynacorn body shell and transfer over the VIN and any salvageable parts? Cost? Desire to do it yourself? Or...?
Hey Jeff! Short story: I was originally rebuilding a coupe but ended up with the conversion pieces anyway. Buying the shell would have been the way to go!
Keep in mind these part are made overseas. I determined that the parts are stamped using a different metal thickness. Meaning radius and contour will differ a bit. I bet your doors and rear window won't fit at all.
Was you able to buy all the all the mustang body parts direct from Dynacorn? If possibel i will go from sweden to CA and buy a bidy kit ! Hope this corona soon will be history! Very nice project you have ! Lars in Stockholm
Two things come to mind: 1) WELD THROUGH PRIMER (yes, I’m shouting), copper is best, melting/smoking zinc is poisonous. None of that sheet metal appears to have the E-coating that is typically on late model replacement panels. You don’t want to be welding rust into your new car. And: 2)Get your doors now. Ideally original parts. Tack them in place and leave them there until you are ready to hang them on hinges. I’ve seen “rotisserie” rebuilds that were done without doors on. When the car was put back on wheels on the ground the door opening wasn’t close to being the right shape. These cars were pretty flexible when new in 1967 so any temporary bracing your thinking of adding while under construction is best done sooner rather than later. Cool project. Especially with Ford licensed parts and a 1967 VIN. I still like the notchbacks too. Look for an 8.8 rear end from a 90’s Thunderbird Supercoupe. Fully independent, disc brakes, and the substructure will tighten up the whole car.
Nice project...I myself just picked up a clean title ‘66 coupe and looking to do the same conversion. It’s pretty rusty so I’m thinking other than saving the dash, doors and inner vin stamped fenders just going all new metal. Also, your technique for checking square on the floor was great-if I go this route I’ll do the same. Not sure it even matters as much if you’re doing a 4-link system.
