Faster CR10 Prints 

is that why?! thanks!!! lets connect offline and you can teach me!!

@@NikkoIndustries id be glad to but i dont know the actual math involved. I just know from experience on my ender 3s. But if you think about it scaled up. Say you can take your car dowm a 1/4 mile track with a 4 cylinder at hit 60 if you use a v8 you will probably hit 90. Its because of the acceleration power of the engine vs the distance traveled. Your tests may have slight diffrences but unless you have high speed recording to review you wont know if a machine paused at diffrent points which changed their print times.

@@NikkoIndustries i do love your videos and designs will you take a commision for a helmet? And if so whats your starting price before we talk about it?

@@coffinsnail6930 yea! Let's chat offline. Nikko. Props@gmail.com

@@NikkoIndustries If you want to reliably print fast, there are multiple things you need to address. On the software and firmware side, you need to dial in your extruder e-steps, and jerk or linear accelleration. You need to up travel speed. You also need to adapte retraction speeds to the printing speed you're seeking to achieve. You need to tune the printing speed sub-parameters - just default, a very large portion of your print (as there's little internal structure beyond support) is printing at highly reduced fractions of you "primary print speed". To support these, you also need to address the hardware side. On the business end, you really should consider a volcano hotend or similar. Stock can't really keep up well with those speeds. You should also consider a dual gear extruder. A dual gear direct extruder might be beneficial; less time spent on retraction and refeed. But the trade off is head weight, adding more inertia to overcome. As a final step, you might want to consider a lighter bed surface than glass.

and THIS is why i make videos!! thanks for the commend dude!! learned something today!!

Because of low acceleration and jerk, the travel distances aren't enough to reach the high speeds...

I just bought a CR-10 v2 for the same reason. I've attempted the mando print twice with no success but it got better with some tweaks the second time around. I had trouble with adhering to the base. Do you have any suggestions on the layer print speed as well as the first layer print speed?

thanks man! good to be back! i print zyltech PLA at 210

I'm still trying to play with the speeds. Calculation is difficult and time consuming

My website. www.nikkoindustries.com/shop

I use a .6mm

Either your X axis (bed) stepper can't keep up and is missing steps, or your belt is too loose.

this one is a .5mm nozzle

@@NikkoIndustries thank you so much I'm using a 8 mm. Is there a big difference?

@@ratstarone 62% - .8 is 62% larger than .5 In practical terms - the larger the nozzle the more round your corners. You can't get a sharp corner on a 1mm nozzle for example. On corners tighter than 90° you can expect to see gaps - because you can't take a .8 nozzle and make it shove into a .6 hole. The tighter the corner and bigger the nozzle the larger the gap

Hi Jordan. I also use Cura and I have a Creality 10s. Did you get a chance to print it? And if so, how did it come out?

what diameter nozzle are you using? i'm using a .6mm with only 2 perimeters

@@NikkoIndustries I was using .4mm I believe. I switched to .6 but it was a bit meh.

@@NikkoIndustries I'm using .4mm but I think it's the scaling :P Looks like your's is a wee bit smaller

.6mm

Have you run this experiment with the .4?

@@chadsine3814 I have not

Layer adhesion wasn't an issue at all. It was at .2mm

good question man... i'll keep doing it and let you know hahahaha

did you put supports in the center? how fast are you printing?

Yup! It's on my website. Go to NikkoIndustries.com and go to the profiles section

@@NikkoIndustries Great! Thank you!

Happy Thanksgiving pal