I like the clamps you made. However, as to the Felder clamp, the reasons it is not clamping at 90 degrees is that you aren't using it correctly. I own one of these clamps and while it is heavy and takes some time to adjust, it is a beast of a clamp for holding heavy pieces to the table. Here are my observations and suggestions as to how you can improve your use of the clamp. 1. You haven't tightened the bolts that snug the base of the clamp to sliding table, thereby creating slop from 90 degrees in the vertical bar. Tighten the two bolts using an Allen wrench. 2. You aren't tightening the lever that holds the horizontal bar to the vertical bar, creating more slop from both vertical and horizontal. Use the lever on the horizontal bar to tighten it. If you correct these steps, it will eliminate the issue of pushing the work away from the fence and give you much better performance from the clamp. Also, I suggest you store this clamp inside your home when not in use. The steel bars tend to rust quickly if exposed to humidity in most home shops (like mine) I learned this the hard way and it took forever to remove the rust. Keep the steel bars oiled with WD 40. This will help prevent rust and make adjustments much easier.
Good analysis, demonstration and explanation, I don't have one but I like to see people who appreciate well designed products and letting others know about poorly designed ones. Thanks
Это слишком мощный зажим для подвижного стола. Он лучше подходит для использования на чугунных столах, например FD 250. Для работ с пилой у Felder есть набор с двумя более простыми и быстрыми в работе прижимами. Clamping and Saw System for X-roll sliding table Art. No. 01.0.242
Agreed on these clamps. I have two of them, but they've been off the slider for some time now. The sticking to the table is real as well. It even leaves a mark you have to remove with a cleaner. I had replaced the bottoms using UHMW tape, but that defeats the purpose of it being sticky. Oh, and that steel bar instantly rusts in my shop. Right now, I use a bessey self-adjusting toggle clamp in the t-slot on the top of the fence (not ideal, I know) and then the black clamp that comes with the commercial fritz & franz jig. I like the extension you put on the Kreg clamp because it bears on the table instead of the fence. I'm not set up to weld, so that wasn't an option.
Very well demonstrated kind Sir. And this is not the only flaw that Felder has on their VERY VERY high machine tools. On my jointer/planer the guard in the back is VERY flimsily. In addition when the fence is locked in place, it wobbles at the other end of where it is clamped. It should be mounted in the center part of the machine. NOT at one end. The knobs are wobbly. And I could go on. But it is still a fine machine. Just these aggravations. As you did, I changed these things to make it better. I feel we should NOT have to do that, but hey that is how it happens. LOL
Yes I agree with you. I asked my salesman to send the video to Felder. Hope they make those clamps. A good company should listen to their customers. Will see what happens.
This is a very good improvement to the clamp design Gilbert.....I should say moor than that....It`s a design, one could say and the company could pay you for the improvement but that`s not the way it works....they`ll change just a small thing and say it was their design.....Bin there , done that....very nice....CHEERS
Ok, I just watched the cabinet making video you posted a while ago and I have got to ask. How are you making Dado and groove cuts these days? Using a router or multiple passes on the saw? As far as I know, Felder does make a dado blade but it’s relatively thin
I have two sets of dado/groovers for my Felder saw. The larger of the two goes up to 3/4". They're really nice, with carbide inserts you can rotate/replace, and leave a super clean cut. You do have to order your saw with an arbor for dado blades.
As I understand it you adjust the height of the Felder clamp with the lever pointing upwards, so that you can open it wider when you have to make repetitive cuts of pieces of the same width. So it is not supposed to be a bug but a feature ;-). The fact that it causes the piece to move is a real issue though, maybe the idea is to put it opposite the piece so that it pushes it against the crosscut fence? I'll see by myself in a few weeks when my KF700s lands in the shop, but I'm pretty sure I will end up copying your design and make my own clamps. Thanks for sharing!
Great video topic. I’ll have that same issue come October when my Felder shows up. Those clamps you made are a great improvement. What would you charge me to make me a couple of these clamps? 😁 I have no access to welding equipment. Thx for the heads up video. Seeing your saw makes me even more anxious to get my K 700 S. Thx
Thank you. It would be cheaper for you to see your local metal fab shop. By the time you pay the shipping. You might as well order your kreg clamps. Show the welding shop my video. Piece of cake for them. Looking forward to see how you like your saw.
@@frenchriversprings yeah, good point. Finding someone locally would be more cost effective, with the cost of things these days! I think Kreg needs to build specialized ones for the sliding industry myself. You should send Kreg your video, I think your on to something there! Thx, take care!
@@frenchriversprings at 2:25 you mentioned the sticky substance under the hold down support. I wonder if they have improved this now. Looking at mine right now and it’s a good 1/8” thick past the steel washer and feels like a really dense felt pad. So maybe they heard you talking about it. 😁👍🏻
Where do you source your Teflon? How thick was the Teflon for your modified clamps? Could epoxy work for attaching the Teflon to the steel plate? I’m not set up for tapping. Thx
@@frenchriversprings i have never made a video before so i will procrastinate but I will fix it! :) Also thank you for many nice videos! I have probably seen them all!
