I really enjoy watching and learning. That's why people watch your work, you are great teacher. So keep talking and don't worry about the length of your videos. I personally like to nerd out. You always let us know why you do the things you do and it makes sense. Great content 👍
Sir, your knowledge of the design and construction of amps is deep. I am not an amp tech, so the subject seems like an endless cavern to me. But it's really enjoyable watching you upgrade with such care. No problems with video length on this side of the screen!
Around 9:00 you talk about people complaining why you talk too much, but man I really appreciate all the talk through everything. I’ve learned so much by listening to the audio through your thought process.
Thank you for your detailed work/information. Both this and previous video steered me in the right direction on my second build, AA1164. I appreciate all that you do.
I have learned so much about amplifiers and continue to learn watching your videos. Gratitude for your efforts and contribution. They are greatly appreciated by many. Thank you Lyle.
I love watching your videos. I’ve learned so much from just watching you do things that I’ve been doing wrong for a long time. You are absolutely right with the amount of people that “fix” or “mod” and amp and just completely butcher it which makes no sense to me. If your doing the work on your amp you’d think you’d want to do your absolute best and for sure if your working on someone else’s stuff even tho probably no one will see it, it’s still the point it makes you look bad.
I'm new here. I really enjoyed watching the care and detail that you bring to Amp repair/restoration. Almost all of it is beyond my comprehension, but here I sit in rapt attention all the same! Well done!
I want to say that you are a really good guitar tech and teacher! Your knowledge of guitar amplifiers is head and shoulders above most guitar techs and even amp designers. I love your attention to detail and quality. This video shows that all the big and little details are what adds up to a great sounding and reliable amplifier. I continue to learn from you and thank you for your contributions to the guitar amplifier community.
Thank you so much for this video! I really enjoyed it, and your diagnosis of the tremolo problem gave me the answer to my situation with my own Princeton, which is a Limited Edition in Tweed covering with the Celestion 12" speaker. The reverb is rich, has depth and detail, but the tremolo has to be turned up on both Speed and Intensity almost all the way to get any hint of an effect. I also like how you have no problem working with PC board amps, unlike some techs, who shout and pout about how they will only work on a hand wired amp. It's not hard to figure out that most players, either pros or amateurs, or hell, just people who like to play an electric guitar at home, cannot afford a hand wired, turret board amp. Your work and step by step description of a problem, and how you repair it are very reassuring as to having a great sounding amp without extreme mods. Keep up the GREAT work! :)
I have one of these and my first mod was to rid it of all circuit boards and ribbon cables. I built a Hoffman turret board and put individual pots in it. It has a Tone Tubby speaker as well and once it’s finished, should be notches above the Reissue design. Always appreciate your videos, Lyle!
Your work is stellar sir. I learned tube theory while I was in the Air Force in the early 1980s working on autopilot amplifiers. We actually had classes on how to solder properly. You've given me ideas now on what I probably ought to do to my own Princeton Reverb reissue, and it's a great idea to get all the heat producers off the board, no doubt. Thanks for the video and the inspiration to basically make my own amp last the rest of my days.
Thankyou so so so so much for this video sir I have a 64 hand wired reissue and the only thing I didn’t like was the tremolo speed was not slow enough I’m going to my buddy’s tomorrow to rectify the situation as it were . He’s a skilled tech and I’m smart enough to keep a hand in my pocket before I poke around with the other in a tube amp Thankyou !!!!!!!!!!
I wish you were located in the Seattle area - I want this same treatment done my 65 Princeton RI. Amp repair here is backed up for 10 weeks and they aren’t interested in doing mods. Keep up the good work and I really enjoy your videos.
Enjoyed this very much. I bought a reissue PR 7 yrs ago. I expected it to be like the originals I’ve had in the past. What a disappointment but still use relying heavily on pedals to shape the tone. I played the new band wired reissue convinced it makes me regret buying the PR issue 6 hrs ago. The price of the new hand wired is commiserate with a fair/good condition original. Then there’s this awesome video of a well experienced professional amp tech addressing and correcting quality issues. Of course there is a price tag for correcting quality issues. I’ve not heard of anyone trashing the circuit boards and hand wiring a reissue mod. Seems plausible but cost would put you in the neighborhood cost of new hand wired or vintage. Then there’s Princeton specks boutique builds that aren’t cheap. I’ve been buying, selling & trading guitars & amps for fun since 1980. I’ve owned countless amps of every major manufacturer. I learned quickly that a PR is the best all around amp to have. It’s size, weight and footprint is effortlessly manageable. Tone is crazy great. Haul a Twin or Marshall stack for a while and the PR gets better and better. That’s why PR’s are an excellent choice. Due to circumstances and raising a daughter for the past 20 years I’m resumed my guitar & amp hobby. I vowed to buy a PR opting for the reissue over original due to cost. $900 for a new reissue seemed like a no brainer. I didn’t expect it to sound exactly like a original vintage. As I said earlier. wow what disappointment. I’ve since thought Fender secretly swapped a refurbished Pro Jr in a new Princeton body. (Pro Jr’s are indeed great amps but if they cost $900 or more that would be disappointing) Again thank you for posting this video and educating me about my PR reissue. You my friend have given me née hope.
The greatest amp ever made. This was so interesting. You really know your stuff. The Amp sounds absolutely Killer. (and even better with your modifications). That upgraded tremolo was absolutely "Lush" - If I lived close to you, . . . I'd have my Amp Done for sure. Meticulous Work !!! Really enjoyed this informative video. oNe LovE from NYC
Man, I have learned so much listening to you.Talk in these videos so screw these guys that don't like you talking.In these videos, I'm learning s*** here.So I love it.Thank you very much for the education... Education is something that no man can ever take away from you.
Thx for pointing out the differences between a Deluxe and a Princeton. I always wanted to know that. Now I might get me a used Princeton and do the mods myself. Thx!
Thanks for another great video. I hope you dont change your content, teaching involves communicating, usually in the form of talking. I have no aspirations to be a pro tech but I do like to build kits and mod amps and this info is gold to me.
Thank you so much brother. All the way from southwest Vic Australia. I’m serious about buying one of these amps & it’s so sweet as to know some of the tips & tricks in order to create the sweetest from our amps. A bit involved! 👀 awesome info though. 👍🏽✊🏽☺️
Great video.... All I have seen so far as a new subscriber are great videos. (I believe my 4th video I've watched). The length is definitely not an issue with all the great info and very detailed in depth info. Keep up the great work... Phil NYC Area
Just got myself an r.i '65 Princeton Reverb navy Blue with a Celestion 12" Blue Alnico. The amp is awesome but i wish to get the mods in this vidéo. To my hears these mods, make the r.i sound just like the vintage model. Awesome job Man... respect
Great video, I’ve been building amps for 30 years and can always learn new things! I use terminal strips point to point, that’s showing my age 😅. I love your videos, thanks.
This is a great video and has some things in it that I should keep in mind for my Blues Junior and my Princeton Reverb (especially the bit about the reverb driver tube at 27:25 - I need to check my amp for this; there's hum in the reverb output).
Reverb hum of my Princeton Reverb Reissue 68 is gone with your mod on the V2 tube socket, finally after 1 year trying so much different and useless advice from the internet, happy New Year, many thanks and compliments, Hajo, Germany
@psionicaudio As someone who is just learning to solder to do his own guitar wiring and other guitar work, this blows me away. If I get a Princeton I’m sending it your way pronto for these awesome upgrades!
Too long? Au contraire, good sir. I would gladly pay for blow-by-blow extended versions of your vids. For instance, I want this mod done to my ‘65 PR reissue. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge and experience. Your content is among my all time favorites. Aloha 🤙
Thanks, but I would never recommend that. Marketing amps. Bad hand wiring, bad layout, wrong Vibrato circuit for a DR, BS coupling caps. You pay a lot but don't get much for it.
@@PsionicAudio Well I will take that into consideration. As a matter of interest, where does a man spend his money if he wants a quality Hand Wired guitar amplifier? Does Fender actually sell anything that would pass muster with your attention to detail? I know you make a quality amp in the Excalibre but I suspect that by the time it reaches the UK it might well be outside my reach cost wise.
I don't know what the UK market is like, but a restored used SF Deluxe will kill anything Fender has made since about '82. So many "boutique" Fender style amps are junky kit builds. Ceriatone (built by them, not a kit) is always a good option.
@@PsionicAudio Thank you so much. I am presently talking to the seller of a Ceriatone Overtone Special and hopefully will be acting on your advice. Love your "show" thanks again.
Have to love your perfectionist approach and the know how. Your modding is as the modding should be done, no improvisations and lazy shortcuts. Even where I would be sceptic at first you mostly convince.
Hi Lyle . . . I just installed the new F&T elec caps in the '65 Princeton RI and also made the mod to V2 . . . I did not have any components to make the tremolo update . . . I"ll update C28 to a 30uf/500V F&T (it supplies HV to the 470Ω's) at a later date along with the tremolo mods. The reverb sounds mucho bettah as one of the 20uf was prolly leaky. . .. the hum disappeared and so did the oscillation whenever I put the reverb over "6" . . .now I have to do some fret work on the Tele as I got some "fret sprout" . . . tks for all the update info you give us here . . . 👍👍😎
I was just listening to this audio only while looking at something eles. Man I thought I was listening to an Uncle Doug video, lol... man you guys sound a lot alike!
If I may, I've been listening to a lot of speaker comparisons too, and I think the best I've found for this amp is the Jensen P10Q, or 12 if you're lucky enough to have a 1 x 12 combo. But to each his own.
If it was my own amp, I would not bother desoldering the leads of clipped/replace parts...I would just solder new part to leftover clipped leads with a big, sweet blob - however, for a customer I would want it to look pristine and my work to be revered. I've done enough "dead bug" prototypes and soldered enough thru hole and surface mount components that I am lazy. Your work looks very nice. I left parts clipped in with test leads at gigs so I can swap....fun
Lyle, thank you for an amazing video! I don't mind that length as I would rather learn more. I want to lower the noise floor of my amp and can't wait to rewire the Reverb Driver socket first. We can see that you replaced the following components: C18, C3, C4, R17, C16, R25, R57, C10, R59. Can you share the new values with us, as well as the tone stack, C19 and R52? At the power tube sockets, we can see the resistors, but don't see diodes D1, D2, D3 and D5. Did you omit these? Have you got under-board wires to attach R17 to the unused power node "C" at the + side of C27, and/or R39 and R40 to attach to power node Z at the + side of C26? Did you change the resistance of R59 or just increase the wattage and float it above the board? We can't see behind C27. Did you change anything about R60? Thanks again - great job! (post edited for layout)
Hey Lyle. Love the content. I’m very happy with my Vox AC15. Which was bought after your recommendation. I have an itch for a Princeton. Which would you prefer the 65’ with a tech’s mods? Or a MojoTone kit? I have built a tweed champ with success.
As usual, very very nice work and attention to detail! (Like flush mounting the switch for instance) I have a request for a video. Could you do a video on your favorite tools you use for amp repairs. Such as the type of soldering iron you use, type of solder, testing equipment like your favorite multimeters etc. And what you use for a current limiter, type of variac etc. I know. Maybe boring stuff for some, but interesting to guys like me to see what professionals use. Thank you!
Here is another one who would be interested to see and hear what kind of tools a professional use and prefer. I have some cheap tools and i kind of avoid working on my 2 Fender amps. I got to change an input jack on a Champ 12 and i have to figure out why my 68 Custom Princeton Reverb is rattling when played louder. So it would be awesome to learn about the proper equipment. Greetings from Germany
Hey Lyle, I like your repeated advice regarding the importance of attention detail and doing things properly even in places where no one else is likely to see. Your tips on technique are great too. Early in this video you mentioned a modification to the cathodyne PI. I'm guessing that was to reference the grid bias to a voltage divider between B+ and ground rather than from the cathode circuit? Did you not follow up on that or did I overlook it? Also, I have some recommendations for solder and soldering irons if you're interested but won't clutter with those if you aren't interested.
I didn't reference the grid to DC. But look at the B+ nodes on a stock Princeton. Look between the 18Ks... Valvewizard has some other handy tricks for cathodynes, some of which I also implemented. I'm good on solder and irons. But thanks.
Is the '68 RI pretty close in your experience (?) and did you consider slowing the Vibrolux tremolo (?) ...and thanx, I'm thoroughly entertained (as usual)
Depending on the potentiometers used, I'm not neccessarily a fan of bending their pins, as if there isn't enough room between the pot's housing and the board, you have no chance to clip them off from the top. Desoldering becomes a mess then, once the pot needs replacement.
Thanks for this exceptional video, along with all your others. I have always wondered why the Princeton tremolo always felt thin compared to other Fenders, as well as why the reverb is as noisy as it is. I just assumed a standard old tube amp issue. I wish I could bring my amp down to you from Montreal! A long way. Could you possibly give us a ballpark cost for this whole upgrade? Thanks!
Contact my buddy Chris Church at Church Audio in Hamilton, ON. I sent Kim Mitchell to Chris a few months back and Kim was thrilled with the work he did on his old JMP. Chris also did Randy Bachman's amps a little while ago. He can do a Princeton. Tell him I sent you.
Hey there, just did the reverb driver upgrade on my princeton 68 reissue. The hum (when reverb is turned up) may have gotten a bit better, yet still loud. do you or any of your viewers have a suggestion what to try next. could a filter cap be an issue? ordered a few, so i can replace the stock ones. thank you so much for help and keep up the great work!!!
update for those fighting the same issue: changing filter caps was a big improvement, yet still some hum left. as it is thoroughly independent of the volume of the amp, i'm guessing it could be the cable to tank or the reverb tank itself, as apparently both are not of good quality. at this point i honestly feel fender needs to get it together as apparently all issues are related on saving very little money on parts while jeopardizing quality and longevity.
Excellent video as always. What wattage soldering iron do you recommend when working on these boards? I will be taking a crack at replacing some pots on a PCB-based Marshall soon. Thanks!
