Thanks for the advice, David. I have twin 40mm IDF carbies on mine. I keep them cool via an override that I wired onto the thermo-switch for the engine bay cooling fan. If I get stuck in traffic, it’s a very hot day, I’m driving hard or whatever, I kick the fan in to keep the carbies and all the metal around them them cool. I have been considering doing the engine lid mid. However, I live in Tasmania, Australia, where it gets a bit too wet. I like the fuel pump and electronic ignition mods.
You are correct about recent X1/9 values increasing. But remember the golden rule when it comes to values.. Every time you cut away or alter a part that aesthetically alters the look of your car (in this case the cutting of your engine lid) it “may” have an adverse affect to the value because it’s now not original. People can be very fussy when it comes to originality. Especially the purists! A very simple technique in helping the engine stay cool without cutting metal is to install a manuel radiator fan override switch. Plus, adding a second fan is very easy to do also. Both fans will draw in the necessary air through the radiator on demand whilst sitting in traffic Your car is the same colour as my 1981 fuel injected. (Rosso Arancio) 👍🏻 Very nice example mate.
All true. I have a switch. But, I have a spare lid. Texas aluminium radiators are a sure fix plus a reverse flushed engine and proper cooling together with accurate timing. As for purists look how Porsche altered their simple air cooled 356 into the oil cooled 911. Progress, as Dan Dare might have said.
Very interesting as my sister has one and yes I found the carb had problems not to bad now I cleaned it I also got a electronic ing but have not put it on yet I got it from UK it's a unit that goes in instead of points you video has been very informative thanks Stephen for Ireland and they area rare car now but why going well a joy but can get sloppy at times
Tks David. Appreciate you sharing your experiences with the X1/9. Look forward to more. I will pull that breather pipe as you suggest. Just finished cleaning the Weber, so will not going to undo work. For the Luftwaffe pump, did you need/consider a pressure regulator as well. Did your have problems with the mechanical pump?
The pump is the Hardi 14412 and it doesn't need a regulator. Expensive but the best. I checked their web site for the model number for the Fiat 128 series engines. The mechanical pump is fine but you be get an instant start and cool fuel into the carburettor with the Hardi. All the best, David
One wire to earth, there is a multi point earth at the left of the engine bay. The positive wire across the back of the engine to a positive on the coil. Thanks for watching.
Hi David, do you have any more details about the parts required for the electronic ignition conversion? I'm guessing its a S178 distributor because it has a vacuum line. what Hall effect trigger did you use? Thanks Jim
I used a fiat distributor, marrelli, that had an ignition module skrewed to it. Originally from Texas. The module overheated and stopped I think, so I replaced the transistor switch with a generic one mounted on a thick aluminium heat sink I made. I think I made a video on it. It works really well. The modules only cost about £20 and are much easier to replace than points. I did have to modify the access cover to the points, the engine bay one with a hammer so there was enough room for the new distributor. Thanks for watching.
A very helpful and informative video that would really help me in keeping my X1/9 running. Just wondering if you have ever had a Twang from the alternator belt?
Haha, you triggered a memory of when I first got mine. I didn't fully understand the belt drives both the water pump and the alternator. If the belt snaps, the alternator warning lamp is meant to come on but it's hidden behind your left hand and the steering wheel, so likely you might not notice. Or you might assume it's unrelated to cooling and carry on driving. The cooling system has no over-temperature warning lamp and the temperature gauge is also obscured by the driver's left hand. First thing I noticed was an explosion of steam from under the deck, only then did I notice the temp gauge was off the scale. The oil pressure gauge and integral warning lamp, are also badly placed and usually obscured. I decided to fit extra warning lamps for ignition and oil pressure either side of the fuel gauge where they are always visible, ultra bright LEDs noticeable in full sunlight. If either of those comes on I know to kill the engine immediately. All down to an idiot mechanic who fitted a new water pump and alternator and belt, without noticing the pulleys were not aligned. The belt shredded itself after fifty miles.
@@davidmoult5770 Sometimes people replace the shield with a similar thickness of fiberglass when they put in a bigger carb -- which no longer shields it. That does tend to heat the whole intake structure up. Never had hard starts when warm though (as far as I remember). Freeing up the deck lid (like you did) should have done the trick. If I recall, the fan gets air from the portside side intake (I always loved how these were functional and not just cosmetic. The grid on that intake can be restrictive. There's a guy in Australia who has been restoring an X. He'll probably have some good ideas. 👍
The electric cooling fan for the carbs was a must in Houston, Texas, the cars ran hot. The Bertone was popular, lady friends who owned them had them air conditioned, so no one was going to win any races driving them, they were all about "the scene". I owned a Datsun 240Z about this time and air conditioning was problematic as well.
What abour heavy rain soaking all the electrics in the engine compartment through your mesh - warning my old one toke sown on the oustide lane of a motorway in heavy rain soaking. New buyer may regard this as ruined and dangerous and potentially costly re prompoting rust
