It’s for sure there are many ways you could have done this. Looks to me like it would’ve been a whole lot less work to cut out the whole panel rather than patching for five smaller ones. You made it work kudos to you.
Please keep going. To many youtubers get started with great projects and never finish. Great work and well done video. Subscribed and notifications on!!!
Thanks Tobias. The biggest challenge with making videos is the added time it takes to actually get work done while also filming. Plus this video took me about four hours to edit. I am going to try to stay consistent best I can. I have a lot of footage already filmed just need to edit them. Thank you for subscribing!
No rush my friend. I'm 27 and building a boat shop here in st pete fl. If you have any advice on shop set ups or work flow I would love to hear on how to be more productive. Iv found a deep passion in build boat that I'm going to pursue for the rest of my life. (Almost enjoy building them as much as being on them) keep up the good work and looking forward to your next video
I've done a lot of cabinet building, but nothing like this. But that's what youtube is great for...taking your current skills and learning to do similar projects. I thank your for teaching your knowledge. With that said, my previous experiences tell me wood expands and contracts a lot, and in a marine envioronment, I would not want my repair plywood cut to as tight of a fit as you have done. I ask this in ignorance: are you worried about having your new plywood expanding and blowing out/cracking your repairs, or is fiberglass strong enough that that will not happen? Thanks for giving me the confidence to try this. In outdoor cabinets, we always allow tolerances for expansion, but perhaps this doesn't get wet? Thanks. Andy
Plywood is used extensively in marine applications for stringers, decks, transoms etc. but it needs to be Marine Grade Plywood. However it’s always fully encapsulated in fiberglass and water should never touch it.
PVA is great for sealing laminating resin, but I actually use gel coat with wax. It helps fill in the weave, and it also acts as a guide coat when fairing.
I don't like using wax in anything. It can bite you in the A$$ later if you have to add more layers/coats. Once that wax is in the layers of work it can creep up and cause adhesion issues later. PVA is a much safer way to cure resins and gelcoat and it washes away with water.
You’ve got skills! Nice to see someone do good work. I ripped apart a 1978 38 Magnum Marine and have my work cut out for me. New subscriber 👍. Your logo’s cool too.
Thanks Mike. Sometimes my OCD gets in the way of me getting stuff done on time :) Good luck with the project. I have a lot of videos already filmed I just need to find the time to keep editing them. Look for a new video this week.
Thanks. Interested to see what happens when you used the epoxy before the poly. I’ve been using Totalboat epoxy on everything so far. Using your belt sander too & like it.
South Fl heat, wow! I don't see how you sand without a tyvek suit. I live in south Alabama, heat and humidity is brutal. When I sand glass in the summer , I almost die ! I commented on another one of your videos about using epoxy. I use a tropical hardener when the heat sets in, it gives me plenty of work time. Working out in the sun light destroys the working time. It cooks the epoxy fast. I like the idea of the lamenating poly staying tacky for the build up, but it seems to be challenged by the heat too. Amine blush or trying to sand some things with epoxy is an issue too. I guess there is no perfect scenario for heat in the south.
I wear a tyvek suit if I am doing heavy grinding but in the summer I also wear poly shirts and poly pants which work good to keep the itching away but don't trap the heat like Tyvek does. Working with poly in the South Florida heat is a challenge but you can use blended MEKP that will slow down the curing process. For a tabbing job I only mix 12-16oz of poly at a time because I know that's the most I can wet out before it starts to kick on me. You just need to get it out of the mixing cup quickly and spread out and that will also extend the working time.
Good work, curious though why you laminated the whole piece of carbon core rather than just the plugs? That made the carbon core exposed on the edges and not fully "waterproof". Sure it won't matter on this repair, just curious. Good work. I just recently opened a repair shop up in Jacksonville myself. Wanted to also record but its like I never have time. .y shop is so busy I can't keep up. Lol.
you can't laminate the edges of carbon core because its plastic and Poly resin will not stick to plastic. That is the advantage to this product in that the core won't ever degrade even with direct exposure to water, however for this repair the front and back was glassed over.
I've got a 70s GRP sailboat which has horrible large laminate windows (@3ft x 8") screwed on each side of the cabin. Ive bought some decent looking portlights (@14" x 8") with the plan to have 2 in place of each of the old windows. But I'd need to fill in the old aperture and cut holes for the new portlights through part of the filled in material, the existing GRP is about 1/4" solid resin (no core). I cant find any RU-vid videos doing for that, this is the closest I've come across. Id welcome advice on how to do this, i.e. do I need a ply core/backing and whether to use Polyester and CSM, or Epoxy and matting. BTW complaining of the Florida weather makes me envious, in the UK its usually cold and miserable!
If the panel you are filling is solid glass, then I would make patch panels out of solid glass to use to fill those holes. Simply laminate up a bunch of layers of CSM with a few layers of 1708 to make flat GRP sheet. Cut the sheets to fit into the port holes and glass it together.
@@BackyardBoatworks i agree time & material is the fairest method. You get paid for time it takes to do quality work the first time...No comebacks or complaints Cheers
It depends on the quality of the resin you are using, the temperature outside and what percentage of MEKP hardener was added. You have to feel that out yourself based on those factors. Typically with a base grade poly resin you don want to build more than 1/8” thickness at a time. More than that will create a lot of heat and excess heat in your laminate will create air pockets from the off gassing as the resin cures. It’s best to do thinner coats to be safe.
Hello I came across this video searching on how to cover a larger hole in a dash for a 1990 Bayliner Trophy, the old fish finder was still în the dash and upon removing it I want to close the opening up. There is a 3/4 core of wood. So I want to cut the missing part as you did but I don't plan to use gell coating so I wanted to ask if using epoxy instead of poly for the steps you did would work? At the end I will paint it with some black VHT spray paint, nothing fancy and cover it with some aluminum composit board. Over it I plan to mount the brackets for 2 nine inch Lowrance Live screens, one above the other. I want to make sure that the wood will be stable and strong enough after applying the epoxyon the back and the front as you did. Thanks in advance and hope you're still around for guiding.
Yes you can use epoxy if you’re planning to paint. However VHT paint in a can is a lacquer I believe. Im not 100% sure if that’ll cure properly over epoxy. It should but I would test it first. You’re better off using an acrylic urethane paint.
That’s a Carolina Skiff with a deck that is bolted to the hull. Is there any reason why you didn’t remove the deck and repair the wood from the under side like it was originally built? Might take a bit more time, but would be done correctly for that model boat.
Because epoxy is not friendly with poly. If the epoxy is not 100% cured any poly products over the top of it will lift. I didn’t let the epoxy cure long enough and when I went to put the primer on it bubbled. It would be better to use a vinyl ester adhesive instead of epoxy so that you don’t have those issues.
You had radiused corners in the lower fwd area but hard 90's in the lower helm area? Why? Would it not be better to have radiused corners? No stress points.
You can still shoot awlgrip over polyester primer. Personally I don’t use awlgrip products because they are significantly more expensive than other brands of paint.
Ok when you say you don’t add wax on repairs and that it can bite you in the ass, I’m curious what you’d do on a bigger project… maybe like a transom… would you use pva in that case if you were planning on using a paint? I’m planning to build a bench from scratch and using 1 part paint… I’ve been trying to figure out how to go from my layup to primer, and was looking at finishing resin for my final layup.
I’m having a hard time following your question. You asked about PVA over gelcoat but it sounds like you’re planning to use paint. If you’re using paint you don’t need any PVA. PVA is only used to fully cure gelcoat that doesn’t have wax added.
DO NOT use finishing resin because it has wax added to it and anything you put over the top of it will not stick unless the wax is 100% removed. That’s the “bite you in the ass” part. You visually have no way of knowing of the wax is completely gone. If you’re trying to fully cure the last coat of resin, brush, roll, or spray some PVA over the surface. This will make it fully cure and allow you to sand it.
Haha. Also personally I would never use a 1-part paint for any boat project. Always use something that has a catalyst like a good polyurethane paint. Anything that is atmosphere cure will typically not have very good adhesion or durability. I would suggest using Sherwin Williams Pro-Line 4800 polyurethane paint. It’s the best and least expensive paint at about $120/gallon
@@BackyardBoatworks somehow I missed your first response and am seeing it with your last response now… first of all, thank you!!! It’s been hard to get advice on this project. Most boat forums just ask me if I’m sure I have enough room in my boat for the build without offering any help😑 So for clarity, the plan was to layup 1708 and csm with poly resin on plywood, then prime and paint using Totalboat wet edge. The thing I couldn’t figure out was if it’s ok to paint over a tacky uncured resin, or when I’m supposed to use fairing compound in that process, which sent me down the rabbit hole of wax added resin and PVA. I appreciate the advice on paint. I saw 1 part as a cheap compromise between the labor of gel coat and the cost of 2 part like alexseal after watching a BoatworksToday vid on it. I’ll do a bit more research.
I had about 20 hours into that project so the price would depend on what the labor rate is. I could probably do it a little faster now but work like this is very time consuming to get the surface perfectly smooth. It’s a lot of sanding time. I charged this customer $900 but it should have been more.
Raally like your video info, but the highspeed "bodycam" shots are makin' me seasick! If you could knock that off it would make the video much easier to watch, IMHO. Thanks
