I know this is an older video but it has come up at a perfect time for my layout. I am not building a fiddle yard but I am planning a goods yard for a factory that will be built along side my freight line. These plans will work perfectly! Many thanks, Charlie! Chris@Wealdhurst.
Thank you for your comments about "sable." You are helping me get motivated to start selling my stuff while I can still be in control of the process. I may only get dimes on the dollar but that's better than my children hauling it all to the dump.
Thank you for this wonderful video. Even though I am yet to build my 1st layout, the planning keeps me awake at night nowadays and the fiddle yard is one of the components. This video really clarifies things for me. Thanks again.
Crossing track can be done not from 2 additional points but with switchable x-crossing replacing one of existing points, it saves length on (short even without it) sidemost track
Charlie one thing ive learned with fiddle yards is, keep it simple. when it gets overly complicated its a certifiable nightmare to setup in traincontroller properly, mine is 2 sets of 3 lines with a point in the middle to join them
Modelling stand point the staggered ladder conserves space for more cars . but for easy of operation of trains the straight ladder is quicker to use with less switches to align for at train movement
I love the plan for the fiddle yard and have incorporated it into my layout plane and it's reduced the space used enormously. Thanks to you and your forgotten adviser :)
I have definitely heard SABLE before. My father said it all the time to explain why he never collected anything and considered my collecting as a kid to be a waste of time, space, and money. It did completely sink in, and I have many collections, but with trains it is a guiding principle. Great video and glad you've got it sorted. 👍
The curves created by the new point layout will add a little more interest than the normal 'branches form a trunk' system. Nice touch from the mystery man. Barry.Devon.
Evening Charlie from my holiday home in Spain 🇪🇸 Always good watching your videos. Spending on model railways stuff on impulse is every model railway modellers nightmare 🙈 I’m just the same as I’ve box’s of railway stuff I’ve never used include sound chips lol 😆 Looking forward to your next update on Chadwick Thanks always Stevie 😃
I've subscribed. I don't have time or space at this point in my life for Railway modeling but I like to follow RU-vidrs who do so I can live Vicariously through you. I have too many unpainted Wargaming miniatures to even think of investing in railway models at this time.
The way you explain the yard layout was great for me as I’m certainly working out a yard now. I work in n- scale and have the room for this setup on the layout.
Hi Charlie Interesting video. My fiddle yard is fitted with 6 three way points and I've never had any issues with them, it was the only way to get the tracks I felt I needed on the base boards. I've fitted peco point motors to the to save a bit of money and the thunk usually means the point has changed, I know you don't really like that noise. Your set up looks good but I find its hard to take a train from the up side of the fiddle yard to the down side on mine as there's always something in the way and so inevitably I end up stopping all trains to make this manoeuvre. I'am definitely a master of sable... I've been sorting through my steam locos recently OMG thinking I had 7ish but got over 20!? don't even know when that happened.... I must build something to run them on... Enjoying the videos keep up the good work. Cheers Paul
That’s a great idea someone gave you for a yard ladder . Will give you a few extra feet to the Length of it. 👍🏻👍🏻 Enjoyed the update as always.. Cheers Charlie , until next time.
Stunning video as always. I love the new pointwork, it is such a smart design. And let me be the first one to say that there is just something so beautiful about seeing an abundance of pointwork. It is just so interesting and just trying to navigate yourself is a delight. Cheers.
Good Day Charlie,thank you kindly for your reply.I agree 30 inch's will be just ideal indeed with much more room within the central area,just that 6 inches less makes so much difference .On a tea break at the moment then back to sorting the log timbers out in the correct order of sides ends etc.Be safe,keep up with your own development.I did watched your video on the trees... Carol p/s my kids think i have gone nuts over this major project of mine,,Not to be seen when i wanted help.always they way.
Ive just bought a scissor crossing in N gauge, guess how much? 80 bloody quid! i must be on drugs. BUT it solves a hell of a lot of fiddle yard problems, in fact in the last 2 days ive spent 200 notes on 5 pieces of track, its mental
Hi Charlie, wise decision, but you could at the runover turnouts before the fiddle yard, that way you won't lose track length to store trains and you have access to all of your tracks if you run from the up to the downline and vice vera. This is what I also did, because I always want to have access to all of the tracks if switchin direction. ;)
Hi Charlie, in mine it's with curved turnouts to save space (st244 and 245), then I split up to 2 lanes and I go to 5 others as a separate yard to form trains. This is a fiddle yard for exhibition purposes. But I think you'l get the idea. ;) Picture: i65.tinypic.com/s5k39t.jpg
Dont worry charlie, I've often forgotten many links and names on facebook too, I save everything if I see its of import for later. Great video and I cannot wait for the next one and this fiddle yard is going to be some massive thing for sure.
Hi Charlie, well got around to doing the pin on the point motor, didn’t solder it only something better, used gorilla glue with pointed point. It done the trick so know more pins falling out any more, many thanks for the idea as for soldering. Roy
Hello Charlie,I was at Ally Pally as well myself on the Saturday,Such beautiful layouts.Gauge 3 very rare indeed so very impressive.as well as the Dock Yard,such detail just amazing just to mention two,didn't return home empty handed either (always the way) .Been so busy on the ground work on the forthcoming base,phew what a major task that was to say the least as well (back breaking to say the least all ache's and pains gee),The weather has been very kind so far.The Tiger log cabinet has arrived,So nice a few neighbour's came to my aid as a few lengths were really a task for being alone.Over lap ends interlocking logs 44 mm 20 ft x 14 ft The Malayan,yes doubles doors but will be fixed windows will have pull down flaps,to make it very secure,Not to sure on the base board width as yet 3ft or 4ft in depth by 6 ft with a underneath fiddle yard,lift up section end by the door,all round running lines ,hopefully a mid center section depending upon space remaining for a turn table,sheds and coal.So if you do wish just to have a peak then please do.Still photo's are being taken on my process !!!...I liked the idea of your fiddle yard.I did have the same problem in the past with a 3 way turnouts,sort of hit a miss situation.such a very long haul to go,before anything starts up and running!!! I did Visit the Hornby Bachmann Rails of Sheffield,Hattons BRM stands.As i am mostly into era's 3/4/5. Well done so far Charlie your slowly getting there with your progress.I have only started so to speak ...Take care,wishing yourself upon your own progress ....Carol
Hi Carol, Yes you certainly have your work cut out but you have well thought out plan. Your board width could be 30 inches. Three feet wide can be a little awkward to do the scenics at the back. Good luck, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. I've been debating on whether to use short or medium radius points in my fiddle yard. Thanks to you and Brian Nicholson, problem solved. Thanks to you both. 👍
“Popularity what pressure”! Very good young Charlie along with the SABLE saying! How sooooo very true! Loooool! You’ll have to get a secretary if the channel keeps growing mate! Looool! John
Hi Charlie, I have never heard of S.A.B.L.E. either but am very guilty myself. I tend to do this with tools too. Great update and you’re electrofrog video helped me put my layout down without issue other than one polarity switch. I have uploaded an iPad captured video to my page if you have time to look. Not professional by any means but it’s a start and log of progress.... Cheers Chris
Hi Charlie I was impressed by the use of your pointwork in the fiddle yard to extend the available length of those sidings. It occurs to me that the use of crossover points to link up and down lines within the fiddle yard will reduce the available length of these storage sidings and perhaps the crossovers could be introduced within your scenic sections.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Patrick. I take your point on the cross overs but I really can’t find another place for them. Regards Charlie
Another great video charlie, will watch this again when layout my fiddle yard and look forward to your next video cheers Beeton Hough Junction (Dave C)
some Extra long locos and wagons need 3, 4, or 5 radius to clear the last car on the nearest track, or to look right doing it, some people even use radius 9.
Hi Raymond, here in the UK we only have short medium or long radius points. However, if you view some of my recent videos you will find that my Track Plan and fiddle yard have been completely redrawn. Regards Charlie
Hi Charle, I have a similar plan however I am putting a turntable at the end of the 10 tracks. 12+ points with servos and control costs more than a Fleischmann turntable. DMUs don’t need to be turned. Only steam locos need turning and a release to the other end of train. This configuration also saves space. Regards Geoff Stone Sydney Australia
Just one point if your using under board mounted point motors u might want to put a inch or so of track between the first and second point so the 2 points isn't right next to the other one I use seeps and they wouldn't fit if I put the 2 points parallel like that just a thought
I would use a wye and a right for the crossover. The right would be straight to the crossover diverging to the yard track. The wye would connect with the straight of the right and the other to the yard lead
Steve, S.A.B.L.E. is my middle name.3- way points, since time began they've always given problems. E.M. or P4. with their finer profile wheels is the way to go here. Watched a video of the Alexander Palace Exhibition some very nice layouts on display. But a lot of the wagon's on layouts are all too lite, they bounce around like pogo sticks. Contenental layouts alway's seem to run to fast. A nice surprise was seeing a Hornby 3 rail layout, takes me back to1955 and the Hornby Dubilo train set I got for Christmas that year. The fiddle yard is going to be very nice addition to the layout. I'll let you go because that knocking at the front door is to tell you that the truck and trailer unit has arrived with you exhibition purchases. Cheers, Chris Perry.
I've used 'Y' points at the yard throat to give mirror symmetry. Strategically placed crossovers are quite important too. They make a yard more navigable together with a lead track if you're planning any shunting/switching..........just saying.......David
Hi Charlie great video again and i think we all are guilty of buying Sable but we say to ourselfs "just in case "lol, great idea for the fiddle yard its prototypical of a few yards i have seen, enjoy Alexandria pallace and we will hear from you after your week away ,Take Care for the noo ...Mac.
Hi Charlie. once again another great video excellent info about the fiddle yard it does make better use of the space I look forward to your next video. Thanks again. Regards George....
Hai Charlie, I’m pleased to see my proposal back on RU-vid. Very nice. I can’t wait to see the findleyard ready. Keep up the good work and the interesting videos. Regards from Harry from The Netherlands
2:15 That is how I build yards in Immersive Railroading (Minecraft Addon) to keep them kinda compact yet still usable. I mean I do not have room for a proper model railroad (nor the budget for it to be fair) so I play with the immersive railroad mod in minecraft..... It's worth looking into IMO for those who are on a tight budget and / or are space constrained to the point a real model train set is not an option.
Having recently subscribed, I’m enjoying your videos and seeing your progress and ideas. One suggestion (following experiences of designing and installing a similar style of fiddle yard) ... is to have the first point as a ‘Y’ point in order to kick-out each side symmetrically, another great space-saver. 👍
Then use of a Wye turnout (points) at the beginning of the entry to the fiddle yard followed by a right and left turnout will make entry easier. then you can use the modified succession of turnouts (points) to keep your lasdders short. 3 way turnouts are a space saver - look for one other than the variety you now possess. I have several and they are by PECO and work flawlessly.
Hi Charlie, I think we all are guilty of sable especially as model builders we are always impulse buying and then tweaking our model and not using. Cant wait to see your layout finished enjoy the Alexandria palace show
The Hornby programmes were interesting and are available on the BBC iPlayer. The problem with such large fiddle yards, as I see it is you can end up doing more shunting off the scenic part of the layout than on it, which is why huge marshalling yards existed on the 12 inch to the foot prototype.
Looks like a good fundamental plan. Easier for me i need a flat classification stagging yard so only 7 switches. 5 for the yard leads and one for a service yard for the locomotive and a bad order track for car repairs
5:30 - How many trains will I run? This question is a bit like 'How long is a piece of string?' or 'How big is a building?'. One day, you might just need 2 trains, the next 23 and the day after 10. Thus, I propose a simple solution: leave a few roads available for rolling stock, but less than your perceived fleet. You just need to have enough space to put some of the harder to rail trains, such as articulated stock and fixed formations. The rest will very happily sit in a box or on a table, ready to enter the fiddle yard when needed.
Not my plan Peter. I’m past putting trains on and off. The fiddle yard is purpose built. I can’t keep on buying trains willy nilly. It’s a way of learning my spending. 😇
At least you're not 'impulse buying' trains during one of the sales. I just thought that I would add something for others who, like me, fully expect that during the decade-long lifetime of the layout will add to the fleet, but probably at a rate of no more than 1 train a year.
@@ChadwickModelRailway if I ever retire, and as a company director that's not easy, I'd like to do a GWR style dual track main line station with a single track branch in n gauge. It would essentially be a loop, and need up and down fiddle yards, plus two big loops for long coal trains. That design gets it down to a reasonable size. The point about n (see Wardleworth) is that it gives realistic train lengths and inter station distances in a reasonable space.
A quick tip: those "Thumbs Down"... I learned they are from those south of the Equator, i.e. the Kiwi's and Aussi's... (I watched an auto program with three guys [James May/also a model railroader, Richard Hammond, and another guy] driving/testing sports cars) where they had a race with some fellows from Australia, double decker cars... the Aussi's were connected rooftop to rooftop, because they do things up-side-down... whence, the "Thumbs Down" are really "Thumbs Ups!"
That’s a top tip with regards the fanning out of points to create more storage space for trains. The only suggestion I would make in your track formation is to have those crossovers from up to down lines and vice versa outside of the fiddle yard area. Presently you will still not be able to get a train from the outside storage line to the opposite line without first having to encounter a lot of forward and reversing movements. Of course, this may be your only way to set up your crossovers due to space and that gap between the up and down lines on the entrances and exits and in that case I’ll retract all that I’ve said and say top job! 😂 Could I also ask one question, what is the overall width of 6 of those storage roads with the current configuration of staggered points? I only ask as I’m planning a storage yard myself and this could prevent me buying too many points and save me a little time in laying track out too if I knew that answer. Thanks as always for the great video. Paul.
Good point & it is why on many bigger exhibition layouts you rarely see trains running in both directions (eg the HST always runs from left to right...unless the operators have 2, which takes up 2 lines in the fiddle yard). There is another way.... Instead of running the main lines through the middle, run them round the outside & allow them both access to a single storage line which accesses all the sidings. You can then run a train in 1 way, change locos before running it back in the opposite direction on the other running line. This was the only way I could fit in my fast/slow line 4 track configuration. It simplfies things enormously although you do lose a little length, except I found that I was able to place my up/down to common line junction was away from the fiddle yard itself.
Stuff Acquired Beyond Life Expectancy? STABLE - that's an acronym that has now entered my vocabulary! I should like to add my own acronyms - KITNEBS - KIts-that-were-NEver-Built! Or how about a DETWENEF? A DEcoder-That-Was-NEver-Fitted?
It’s an interesting idea with the position of the turnouts and it’s very different. Most I see are what you had shown to begin with or have 3 way turnouts. Curved turnouts can assist but I think your on a winner right there. I wish my fiddle yard was a straight area but I had a curved section with 3 tracks coming in at one end but 4 at the other...I didn’t want to make it easy. Great video Charlie and I can relate to buying things that we don’t need. Defiantly some items are in the want category. I swear they made my life better somehow tho! All the best Clint
@@ChadwickModelRailway when you run digital layout you do not need any insulated sections etc - my last set up with had 8 trains running with 2 hand controllers
@@rizalardiansyah4486 I would have a steam loco scrapping fiddle yard where the steam locomotives come in for scrapping. This would be represented with a vice for crushing the locos and various hammers, saws and a steel block for smashing stuff up. I think this fits in well with the SABLE motif as we often have lots of redundant stuff that is best disposed of rather than hanging around. Always scrap and dispose of materials carefully. Plastic can be crushed and shredded into small pellets for recycling. Steel and copper components, motors, wiring etc can likewise be seperated, collected and recycled.
Every railway I’ve built over the last 10-15 years I’ve tended to move over to a sliding traverser plate. It eliminates all points, reducing costs. Allows longer trains in the same space as there’s no lead in and lead out point fans. Also it has no effect on the track spacing of you incoming lines...
I’ve looked at using dcc in some layouts. I’ve toyed with the idea of using servos to try to automate a traverser.... it should be possible. The last layout I did was Dc but did have the ability to switch to dcc.
Hi Charlie, following my earlier comments re problems with this design i.e the conflict in positioning of some of the point motors I have experienced other issues in this design: the points with the flex track curved cause the point to spring up as the track is under tension; it is more difficult to neatly fit the the track compared to straight lengths; wiring is more complex and finally the through line has more points for through trains to crossover hence greater risk derailment. Regards Alan
Very interesting points Alan. This is an issue that I will have to face in the Autumn when I start the build. Only then will I know the exact space available. Regards Charlie
makes more use sense to x track or diamondpoint at either end and do the original layout running main lines down the middle and spurs and run arounds on the outer bound tracks. Procrastination stuffs us all, however I would would rather look at it this way, i would rather have what I need on hand and waste the cash now in its need.. rather than mull over it then force the purchase then wonder why I didn't do it in the 1st place.. as we all procrastinate as we age.. though sometimes a fresh setof eyes fixes to the mistakes we have created..
@@ChadwickModelRailway sometimes we collectively get fixated on a layout because it way we like it though with a fresh set eyes from varying points of view, that being it isn't easy to fit in a small space length ways to cram in 14-16 tracks where you need enough length to fan up from 2-14 where functionally you need 18 tracks based on 7 tracks east and 7 tracks west 2track main and 2 track spur/runaround outer track.. i would tend to 1-2 track maintenance area on another part of the layout as you don't have the width/depth to support hands between rolling stock unless going to use a loco to fish tail rolling stock out of the yard if you are going remove stock off the layout for cleaning as stands you could likely not remove anything from layout unless you are a good mahjong player.. with all tracks in use you're going to have moving issues..
do have an issue using cross over x tracks or are they to much of a setup issue my suggestion would be consider 2 main lines down the middle with splice into the middle tracks and use the main line as a connection link.. between north-south or east-west fiddle yards?? you can skin this cat anyway you want however the less point you have in the main yard operations the better in that wasted space behind your scenery i would may be consider going from 2-4-8-16 tracks It makes more sense to me to consider where to start the fiddle yardage from .. though bottlenecking your service from 2-12 in the open where you have the space by the looks of it from 2-4-8-12/16 with running 2 inner mains and 2 single outer main lines doing the splits from your bridge section something to consider if you are modeling on a real yard lay out you might be able correct the flaws within the prototypes at this stage...
@@ChadwickModelRailway hillside is easily fixed make it removable.. however this option will fix the issue of a run around track however it is up to you what you do I was just noting the wasted space that could be better utilized for use however it is your layout do what you want you don't leave yourself much room for either an internal or external looping tracks in the current design you have.. for what you are trying to do you don't really have the external display length for what you are trying to accomplish in 12 track fiddle yard as you don't have the functional space for either a operations line or main line adding a inch or 3 may increase operations space to where you can main lines and a run around dual purpose use where you have 2 outer spur lines and 2 inner mains
I'm afraid I have to disagree regarding your thoughts on the Peco 3 way point. Using a wiring diagram that changes both points when required, they have proved to be trouble free - good job as they are hidden!!
Hi Charlie, Yes I'm guilty as charged of "S.A.B.L.E". I like to use the excuse, "it's a limited run item" and I may need that item in the future. But again, guilty as charged, I still have a few of those limited run items sitting in boxes. Something I always do is leave the price sticker on the box. That way if I pass before my wife, she has an idea of what my models are worth, when selling them off at auction. I agree, the new design of the fiddle yard ladder tracks make a more efficient use of the available space. To save on cost and if the fiddle yard is going to be easy to access, you may want to consider manual ground throws instead of point motors? Cheers, Rich S.
I agree Charlie I’m not trying to buy stuff I need although I’m now waiting for delivery of another 37 . Now I’ve noticed of late your pointing at links at the end of your videos that are not there and I’ve noticed the option on my channel have gone too so to that it’s not just me that’s having the problem or have RU-vid stopped us from doing so? Anyway great video again and catch you on the next one 👍
Turnouts can be shortened by selective reduction of rails at each end of the points. Look at the new Micro Engineering ladder set to see how they did it.
Another great video Charlie. Subject matter presented clearly and thoroughly explained. You should be teaching various subjects at the highest level of academia. You have a gift to teach and impart knowledge in a fashion that is easy to comprehend
Charlie have you a video showing where the fiddle yard is actually going on the layout and how do trains enter and leave the yard. I really like what you have done here and will probably copy this. Much appreciated Les Cliff from Notlobia
Hi Charlie, great video. Just thinking, to keep the length of the 7th track from the right, would it be better to have a Y point on the 6th road where the point is now facing the other way and bring a point off road 7 closer to the end?
Many Thanks Charlie for another really interesting and useful Video, and yes, I think many of us are guilty of the acquisition of Things that we don't really need. I discovered that I've amassed lots of Railway Magazines many that I not yet read. These cost a lot of Money ca £4,80ea Money that would be far better invested in my long desired Railway. Thanks once again for sharing your Experiences.
Charlie, concerning yourt SABLE principle: ease your conscience either by resolving to use what you have (and maybe impose an embargo on yourself: no more purchases until SABLE-purchases are resolved) or sell it on ebay.
Personally i think your first fiddle yard design is better than the second. reasons are the second design looks messy to my and after you put in the cross over points youre loosing track length. i think the first design also looks more realistic.
Isn't it Stash not stuff?? Never mind. I didn't see you at Alexandra palace, was there Saturday till around 2ish, brilliant show but a bit busy for me, think I will stick to smaller shows. All the best.
what do you consider short and medium? #4, #5, #6, #8? and that new design at the 2:00 minute gives you two s-bends and another one when you added in the two points to cross over.
No!!! Buy, buy, buy....its valuable equipment, as my dad would say. I agree with you and I never buy stuff I dont need he said buying stuff I "might" need. My wife says okay you've bought it now keep it and when the layouts built sell what you don't want and get stuff you do need. How can I say no to that??
Hi Charlie no......he gets to the grave yard with the most toys enjoyed themselves before they got there. I like looking at my collection and now I'm building my layout, I am happy I've got the bits to do what I'm doing. Oh and Chadwick of course for advice.
Hi Charlie, I'm clearly a little late to the party :-) but this answered a question I had about track separation in the yard, so I've gone for medium points, and I like the space saving design. However when I tried mocking it up for my soon to be N gauge layout, I found that the two points immediately after the first have badly clashing sleepers and tie bars. I've looked at lots of your other videos about track and point laying and can't find any which show that it is acceptable to make the drastic hacks that this would need. The only way I can see to avoid it is to add a short straight, but that defeats the object. Any advice on this would be much appreciated 🙂 Jon (finally building the railway I've wanted for over 40 years)