In this video Terry Erasmus demonstrates how to dig out, root prune and pot a field grown Trident or Chinese maple. You can read more blogs about field growing here: www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tr...
Ah! Here it is. So about 10 years of growing, plus the 2 years you have it in the wooden box, so 12+ years. Wow, that’s dedicated work! I got some young tridents in the ground last summer, so I guess, I’ll be here in about a decade! 😅 🪴 🍁
I think this tree has at least been in the ground for that long, and then to build a finished bonsai will take at least that much long again. Enjoy the journey, it won't feel like that long and you will learn so much in the process. Good luck!
nice! list of steps for me at the moment: get a field, plant trees, wait for them to grow, make cuts, regrow, collect, build a woodcraft workshop, build box, plant tree. time span: 10 years. here i go! im the meantime will keep enjoying my sticks in a pot! great video and inspiration, hope one day i will be working at this level. never yo late to start dreaming
Thanks so much! Late spring hard cut back is best to produce back budding. Cut back in autumn is good to prevent sap bleeding from cuts in spring. It also produces buds which activate in spring.
Thanks Brendan! A lot of people like to use plastic, but I'm just not such a fan for the reasons I gave. If you haven't yet then definitely give them a try.
Gee thanks Nicolaas. Do try to resist the urge to dig them out too early. This one has been growing in the ground for at least 10 years. If yours are ready though then great, go for it.
Thank you so much! I will be doing some follow ups on this tree soon and again in future years. Of course I have many others so I would like to continue with creating new content and sharing more information. Thank you for watching!
@@TerryErasmusbonsai ...Awesome, looking forward to more of your videos , I really enjoy them and I’ll also be watching other videos I haven’t watched yet. Also looking forward to updates as well , great stuff love it . 👍
Very informative indeed. I used to use wooden boxes and found them very conducive to better growth especially in our Mediterranean hot summer. Thanks for sharing.
Wonderful Alfred! Better than the ground? Or do you mean better than a pot? Wood is great though. By the way, this Friday's video will feature this same tree and me doing some approach grafting on it. Hope you enjoy it!
Thanks German. I shall do a follow up on this one next year probably and discuss setting up the structure and the use of sacrifice branches. Maybe some grafting too. All depends on how well this one grows over the season ahead.
Great video, great information, thanks for sharing! looking forward seeing the evolution on this massive tree. Can we see more videos of field grown material? Greetings from Panama!
Thanks Andres. I hope you are well in Panama! Sure, I hope to do many more videos on field grown material and I hope you will enjoy them too. Thank you.
They work great for quickly and cleanly cutting large roots. Saws work too but saws get blunt easily when cutting roots especially if there are remnants of soil around.
Wow that’s amazing for me to know someone in Nepal has watched some of my content! What species are you growing there? Your winters are very harsh are they not?
Great work Terry, I like you are using a lava mic to have better audio, as a suggestion to have a better result don't record on Auto-Levels set it up on manual but you would have to adjust the levels to the distance of your voice, that avoids the levels going up and down, keep up the good work.
Dear Terry! Your field growing videos really inspired me to start field growing myself. 2year old cuttings of Tridents and Goyo Matsu are my first choice. When do you plant these young trees spring or autumn time? I'm located in Hungary, Europe. Our winters are mild, with occasional freeze (-6-8 C). Thank You so much for teaching us very valuable infos, I'm a big fan of Your work! 😊
Hi Terry. Do you find any difference in the nebari or state of decent root flair for a front based on the direction in which you plant your tree in the ground initially. i.e. would you plant your initially chosen tree front facing the sun to encourage better root growth on that side, for a better front when you dig years later, or does it not make a difference?
Very good question! In fact this tree was planted with the back towards the sun. The front was thus more shaded but yet remains the better side. There is a very sharp slope on the ground where it was planted and thus I planted the front side in a way which was easiest for me to see. One cannot make any kind of statement on the experience of a single tree. However I have many other trees growing in the ground there and I cannot say whether planting them facing or not facing the sun will make any difference. However access to water will definitely influence direction/how the roots develop.
Boy, that's a Lovely big trident maple trunk! Field growing is an aspect of bonsai that I really love, it's like unwrapping a gift when you uncover those roots and finally see what you've been working towards all those years. Your growing area looks extremely ideal, lots of space and on the side of a hill for great drainage. I assume it's not at the same location that you live as you mentioned a farm? I only have my parents backyard to grow in so, with limited space I've only got a few tridents and desert ash growing but every year, seeing them get bigger and making some directional cuts, I can see some decent trunks coming along. Thank you for this informative vid and I'm eager to see more as you develop that one and dig up some of those others. Cheers from Australia!
Thanks so much for watching and your comment. Yes I am fortunate to have access to a farm in an agricultural area around 30min from my home. Irrigation is taken care of but it does mean the trees are mostly left to their own devices - although this might not be a bad thing 😊 I have developed many trees in growing beds at my house too and there are definite advantages re accessibility. As you say, the process is very interesting and rewarding. Enjoy it!
Very good! Thanks for sharing Terry. Have you ever faced a fungal disease that make the leaves tips to dry and curl? I have been dealing with that issue on my Trident Maple, I found on Bonsaify that he identified this fungi as "phoma", I have been treating with weekly with difenoconazole solution... which is a systemic triazole fungicid... And it seems to be working, however I sure want to know more about, thought about asking you, since you have a lot of experience on that species... Cheers!
I know this problem as Anthracnose and I cover it on this page: www.bonsaitree.co.za/pages/problems-and-solutions. Take a look at the images on the page and see if that's what you have. It is quite common now amongst Chinese maples particularly in the Western Cape. I don't know of anything who has entirely eradicated it. It may seem like you did but defoliate and its back again. I have found the most effective solution now to be treating with Odeon while the young leaves emerge, as once hardened the leaves don't seem to be susceptible. (www.bonsaitree.co.za/collections/fungicides/products/odeon-100ml) I have vastly improved the situation among my trees but one needs to remain vigilant to keep it under control, I am not convinced I will ever eradicate it entirely. It does seem to affect trees under stressed conditions (bonsai cultivation) most, as my field grown maples down show any sign of it - although they are on a fruit farm so I am sure they are being exposed to spray drift of all sorts of chemicals.
What do you think of using fabric pots for this phase in development? I would think the air pruning on the sides would help with more fine root growth. I'm going to attempt it with a Norway Maple air layering I have waiting.
I don’t have any thoughts on fabric pots. Ive never seen the long term results with using them for bonsai material but the little I do know suggests there may be some advantages so I’d be curious to know what results you achieve after a few years.
The trees I have in small to medium sized fabric pots do really well. But moving them around is a little less stable than a conventional pot. For this reason I leave my fabric pots in place for longer periods. I also leave them on the ground so they can reach into the soil. Larger fabric pots become unwieldy and its basically impossible to move the tree around without major disturbance of the roots and substrate.
So this tree spent 10 years already in ground. From this potted stage onwards, how many more years are needed for it to be sellable / presentable as bonsai ?
Good question. The answer will depend on your idea of what constitutes a good bonsai/sellable/presentable. I could not see this tree being exhibited for at least another 15-20 years. Longer would be better. It’s immediately sellable as field grown stock, but it will be worth much more later so I have no intention of selling now.
Great question! You sure can. However you might struggle to get it very flat if these trees have already got an established root system. If they do, and it is the right time of the year and a robust species you can most likely just chop all the roots off. I used to flat the cut trees every few years with a chainsaw and they grew fine each time.
The tree was placed directly on top of the tile. The paver itself rests just beneath the surrounding soil surface or level with it. Remember, you want the roots to grow off the edge and down into the ground.
I’m not aware of such a formula. Sorry. This depends on so many factors and at the end of the day I’m going to say it comes down to experience. The container should not be too large or the media remains wet too long and you waste resources. It should not be too small so as to restrict growth. You need to find the happy medium 😊
Do you have any experience with blue atlas cedar? I have one that I want to put into the ground to thicken the trunk but I hear they do not do well with potting and agressive root cutting. Is the method you're using here good for blue atlas cedars or is it too harsh?
Thanks for watching. No, I believe I stated in this video that the technique is for deciduous only. For a cedar you could develop in the ground but you would need to cut the roots while in the ground every couple years or grow it inside a root control bag.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai so every couple of years you would dig it up, cut the roots to the desired length and just cover it back up with dirt? What would be the best time to cut the root? Do I wait till I see new growth or wait till the tree becomes dormant? Also, will there be a future video on field growing cedar?
Hi Terry, great video thank you! Can you be as “aggressive” with cutting roots and lifting a Japanese field grown tree? I’ve tried twice and both times the tree died, I even left alot of foliage and root ball. Any tips for Japanese Maples (not sure what I am doing wrong? ☹️)
Hi Rick. Thanks for commenting. In my experience if the tree is healthy (has been growing in the field for a few years and thus has stored up energy), you dig it in early spring at bud swell and you keep it in a protected environment free from wind after collecting then it should be fine. I flat cut olives to essentially a giant cutting, I cut all the roots off Celtis, Acer and others and I’ve never lost one. The technique for conifers however are different. You cannot treat them the same.
I didn't knew that you can grow trident maples in south africa I have a couple of questions 1) Do Trident maples go dormant and shade their leaves in winters (Tropical winters) ? 2) Which cultivar of trident maple is this ? 3) Where can i get my hands on one I live in India on the western coast so the climate is pretty much the same as grabouw
Chinese maples are considered weeds by the authorities in South Africa, that should give you an idea of how well they grow here. 1. Deciduous trees require a cold period for rest. If you cannot provide this then you will not be able to grow them, at least not long term as they will weaken. 2. Cultivar? Acer buergerianum. Nothing fancy. 3. In india I have no idea. Try garden nurseries, otherwise look around in gardens usually there are seedlings coming up and you can ask the homeowner for some. Or buy seeds. However if you cannot find them in garden centers, nor find them growing on streets or people's gardens then this might be an indication that you cannot grow them there.
Thank you for your question but I think perhaps it is translated? I don’t really understand what you mean. I think you mean if you cut a field grown maple really short will is sprout. There is a chance if you do it in autumn that it will but it’s a big risk if there is no growth or visible buds there at the time you make the cut. And so if it does not bud it will die, this has happened to me before particularly with very thick, older trees.
This was done in one day. However perhaps you mean the pruning of the canopy being done in preparation? If that’s what you mean then no, you don’t need to do that it’s just better. However you can chop back the tree and dig the tree on the same day. Some species like this trident maple will lose a lot of sap if cut in spring but by cutting the roots at the same time this is limited.
@@TerryErasmusbonsai i mean cutting the roots and removing from ground. the process done here is cut back some of the bigger roots at the top, allow for new smaller fibrous roots to develop. wait min 3 months before cutting the remaining roots directly under the trunk to remove the bonzai. so yeah your technique very different to the way its done in my country. i hava a super jumbo amarindus Indica 50cm in diameter at the trunk, and i lve been told it will take min 3 months to 12 months before it can he removed.
Rocks no, pumice yes. I am not sure what you mean by "rock" as my understanding what that is might be different to yours. Pumice however is a product of volcanic activity. It is porous and thus holds water and oxygen. The wet/dry cycle is accelerated and produces a lot of roots. Pumice is a great medium to use for trees which have a weak root system or very few roots as in this case.
Ah. I get it now. Well to be honest initially the plant relies on stored nutrients to grow as it has minimal roots so no point to providing fertilizer. After it has settled, sure, then it can be fed by foliar or via the roots. Pumice does have a cec value but I don’t suppose it’s particularly high so if watering a lot it will leach out fertilisers so the need for replenishment is high. However I only keep the tree in pumice for the first here or maximum two, then it will go into something akadama based alternatively I also use a mix of peat and crushed hydroton. However I don’t ever use something like a compost or a potting soil or bark for my trees although I do not say it cannot be done, just that one needs to understand the downsides too.
Thanks for sharing. This is very good info and will help me with a tree I collected earlier this year and many I plan to collect in the future. Just a critique, on the video itself, the breathing noise from every time you pause while talking was harsh and annoying. Its not present in many of your other videos so you might just want to do some sound tests with that lapel mic if you plan to keep using it.
Glad the information was useful to you now and in the future. Yes, I am a bonsai artist not a sound engineer and it shows. It is a new mic and I am trying to still get a hang of the gain settings. Sorry it was so annoying to you though, but fortunately it hasn't seemed to bother anyone else.
