You are going to need to change that water out. It will rust your wheels, and it can freeze if it gets cold enough (I know you live in Southern Texas and it rarely gets cold enough to freeze, but still).
That is correct! You can only add fluid to the tires if they have tubes, and calcium or beet juice is used to keep it from freezing. The dealer refused to put liquid in my brothers Bad Boy 4035 for that reason.
The fulcrum will always be the front axle. The ballast in the rear tires will just add leverage to keep the rear tires on the ground. Running straight water can freeze and rust the rims. Your owners manual should tell you what and how much to add. The alternative is to see if they have bolt on wheel weights for your tractor.
There are tire ballast charts for size to let you know how much volume is in there. Just did 12.4x24... 30 gallon p,us 100 lbs magnesium chloride each side.
Hey JD you should check in tractor manual for wheel pressures arter filling tyres with water. My Zetor (pretty uncommon brand in US) have a part of user manual dedicated for water ballast.
I agree with some of the others. I wouldn’t do water. You won’t have to worry about freezing, but beet juice (rim guard) is a much better choice. It’s also heavier than water. Some folks even use RV antifreeze. The filled tires do ad ballast to a degree, but the purpose is more for traction. Ballast for loader work should be in the form of an implement, ballast box, or 3 point suitcase weight bracket (heavy hitch is a good one) This would better address the physics that you mentioned. Unfortunately, weight and weight brackets are expensive and I think that’s why so many people avoid proper ballast or rely on an implement that restricts movement in tight quarters. If you haven’t already, check out Tractor Time with Tim, he’s the JD equivalent of the RU-vid compact tractor world.
Counter weight on the three point doesn't change the pivot point of a bucket full. Adds more bending moment to your chassis. Ballast in tires doesn't add to chassis weight until you load the front. It essentially rides on the ground.
I agree with you. I think that by adding the weight to the rear tires, he's not changing the pivot point, because the pivot point is fixed on the front with the bucket taking the additional weight, the additional fluid (in this case water) will help him, when he's got a heavier load on the front, but just like he's always preaching to us, you shouldn't exceed the weight capacity of the attachment that is being used, whether that's a bucket, pallet forks, etc.
You'll need a tube in your tires to keep your wheels from rusting plus anti freeze. I learned the hard way. I also learned you only want 2/3 of your tires in water.
Adding weight to the rear tires does not add weight on the front tires. If you add weight to the tractor like your seat for example, that will add weight to the front tires. Unsprung weight vs sprung weight (even if there are no springs). You are right, this weight does not reduce the weight on the front wheels either like weight on the 3 point would.
I think Rim guard is more dense than water, non corrosive and environmental friendly. Also it won't freeze until you get to below 30 degrees below zero Fahrenheit
You should check your operators manual for the proper air pressure per tractor manufacturer application, , not all tires will need to be aired up to the maximum pressure on the sidewall, this can very air pressure per tire application.
@ 75% fill these tires hold 23 gallons of liquid ballast. Water ballast your looking at about 184# per tire giving you a tire ballast of 368#. The weight change is drastically different from beet juice (RimGuard) which weighs around 12# pg as opposed to water weighing 8# pg.
I’m just surprised that tractor company didn’t have any weight that you could just add too the frame of your tractor just because I have never seen anyone add water in the tires so this was very interesting to me so are those tubeless tires? Like I said never seen or heard of anything like that does the water effects the usage so if you ever got a hole in the tires you would know really quickly! Thank you for sharing this video!!
I’m thinking of the front axle is the pivot point and the rear lifts up completely, now the front axle has the weight of the operator, the weir that of the rear tires, and anything on the 3 point hitch… I would think as long is there is some weight still on the back axle, it has to be less in the front. I would think it adds a lot of stress to the frame Maybe I’m wrong, I don’t know tractors
OK I see some have let you know about the water, When you get a front loader on a Tractor the Dealer puts in Chloride in your rear wheels, or wheel weights on the wheels that's what the 4 square wholes are for on your rims the water will freeze up not good
In the farming industry it is only for better traction when pulling tillong equipment. Not for ballast. Always use antifreeze. If they freeze it will destroy your tire.
i don't think it will increase the weight on the front as the water in the tyre is unsprung weight, not sprung weight. it might cause extra stress to the rear suspension, as it is in tension not compression
It adds the potential to put more weight on the front. When he lifts enough weight to lift the rear tires, the weight of the whole tractor is on the front axle. By making the rear heavier, he adds more potential
Pretty cool, I've heard of this process but never seen anyone do it before. I'd always been told you need to use saltwater, but folks saying to use antifreeze makes sense.
I would rather use removable weight than fill the tires. You have now made your tractor heavier and will tear up your grass as drive over it. Considering you just put down sod, don’t drive the tractor on it now.
calcium chloride is no longer recommended because it's so corrosive. washer fluid with methanol, or used engine coolant, or beet juice (rim gaurd) is what is now used.
When filling the tire with water, position the valve stem at the level you want to fill. When the tire reaches that level, water will come out when you are trying to release the air. That's how you know it's at the right level.
Hopefully y'all don't get another freeze in Texas during the next winter JD. I'm inclined to agree with the tinkering trucker on the used engine coolant idea. I'd think eventually the steel wheels are going to rust inside. It's a little bit more preparation, but what if y'all had the wheel/tire assemblies dismounted and the inner wheel area coated with FlexSeal, allowed to cure overnight before remounting? Just a thought 🤔😏💭.
