I'm suffering from work related stress, watching your slow down videos is like the best medicin for me. Has always loved your work method, thanks a lot for another fine video
Great video! You have a very relaxed, precise and informative way of explaining your photography. The scenery in the video and the still images you shot are beautiful. Big thumbs up!
Looked like a great day out. I always feel that being pleased with where you are is a good start for photography! Its very encouraging to see that someone as demanding as yourself finds 35mm materials to be of serviceable quality as I doubt that I will ever feel flush enough to get serious about larger formats and you've certainly made your point today! Mind you, I'm just looking at my OM motor drive... I really thought I was something when I finally got that....
Thanks David. In many ways digital processing has elevated 35mm from where it used to be and it’s not that hard to make decent large prints that stand up very well next to bigger formats.
It will be done one day David, I’ve spent ages thinking through how to do it without making it confusing or biased towards one particular solution (colour negatives are the big issue here).
Nicely done and wow, the weather there really changes throughout the day. I am interested in the options for home scanning so please do consider a video on that. Enjoyed the video Steve.
Blimey - you ran the gauntlet with those cattle!! Fab video again, though. I know it goes against everything I stand for in terms of travelling light, but a bag of key focal length primes and taking much time over things would be sooo appealing 😊👍
Your show is a bit like a grown up, photo-centric Mr. Rogers - and I mean that as an enormous compliment. I love that you have a pattern to your videos. Waste no time, go out in the field and show us plenty of beautiful b-roll, talk about your process, and ultimately come back home to make the print. It inspires me to try my hand at printing, but I’m rather intimidated by all the technical aspects of making inkjet prints from my digital photos. ICC profiles, and all that kind of thing. I was searching your content for how-to videos on inkjet printing but didn’t see any. I would love a video where you go into more detail about making your inkjet prints, ensuring color accuracy, etc. Thanks again for the great content!
Thanks Richard. I don’t really do any processing videos but my friend Robin Whalley has some excellent tutorials over on his channel. My printing setup is simple, I calibrate the monitor then tell Lightroom to let the printer manage the rest, no profiles needed (largely due to the Mac).
Another thoughtful and well-presented video Steve. I love the way you don't give in to a bit of bad weather too. I wish I was as dedicated. Excellent pictures too, I used to use Provia many moons ago and wonder if I should get out my old Pentax Super A and try another roll for old times sake? Thanks again for all the time and trouble you take to keep us all inspired.
Cracking video Steve, I really enjoyed this. The images we've seen in the video look superb, and the A2 print you show at the end is top drawer. Your videos don't normally run for many minutes, but I've learned so much from your trips out. The main thing I think, is taking time to explore the subject, looking to see how best to convey your thoughts. Please treat us to some more as soon as we're allowed out again.
35mm film is perfectly competitive. A few weeks ago I went for s hiking in the Rhine Valley to capture the autumn colours. I had a Leica M6 with 28mm Lens and a 6*7 Medium Format Plaubel Makina (with 80mm Lens) both with Kodak Ektar. In many cases I preferred the pictures of the Leica despite the lower detail. Contrast and colours were nicer and had more pop even though I used the same film for both.
Another peaceful Sunday morning. Thank you Steve, for an inspiring video. My Sunday routine has become heading out "hunting" just after sunrise with the Hasselblad, Although this morning with the 7D. Then a stop by the grocer for a couple of croissants to bring home. Finally looking to see if you have a new video up. They are always inspiring. I also appreciate your ideas about utilizing a variety of formats. I am very surprised about the quality of the 35mm prints. To me, the first thing to think about with a camera are the lenses, whether they be Zeiss or Nikkor or the like. The rest is just a carrier for the film, to some extent. Your videos just keep getting better all the time - per the theme of this video, just slowing down and taking it all in.
Thanks Jeff, the croissants also sound very good. I agree that the lenses are more important than the film format as if much rather have a sharp 35mm frame than a weak 120 or 4x5.
Wow! What an excellent video Steve!! Really enjoy watching and thanks so much for this wonderful subject that can also be apply to Digital Photography!!!
Great video and great shots as always Steve. I love taking my FE2 out for a hike with a couple of primes. I tend to work quite slowly when shooting 35mm as well.
Informative and useful, with the added benefit of entertaining. Thank you for making me think more about the film kit I have strewn around my camera closet. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on digitizing film.
Morning Steve, looks like this video has been from possibly a few moths ago as the autumnal colors had not yet appeared. Loved the look of that quarry (thought it was Bolehill Quarry in the PD confirmed when I went to look at the flickr file) and the red sandstone wall worked well with the green leaves of the silver birch. Looking forward to your trip into the hills with the 35m and primes, think that would be well worth seeing. atb Alan
I really enjoy your videos, Steve, and this one is no exception. I agree that zooms tend to make a person somewhat lazy. I've been making myself shoot more prime lenses and the extra effort required in framing the shot pays off. The images were excellent especially considering the wind you had to deal with.
Thanks Terry, I find that if I have a zoom in the bag then it tends to gravitate onto the camera and stay there all day to the detriment of the shots. I’ll cover this in a future video following a trip where this happened recently.
Lovely video Steve. As always your philosophy is on target. As someone who started in film, I still find it hard to rattle off 36 frames without reflecting on the seen. Great results.
Always love your stuff; regardless of what format you shoot. I do love the image that you decided to print. I believe the composition was great. Too bad that minolta isn't available anymore.
Been looking for one of those Minolta scanners myself...very hard to find, software out-of-date and no longer supported by Minolta. The other option is Plustek, but haven't made that decision yet. The search continues.
Vuescan works very well with the Minolta and other older scanners too. The Plustek is about halfway between flatbed and high end scanners like the Minolta. I’ll be doing a video covering the options in the next few months 🙂
f5.6, you’re a madman. those slide film colors are wonderful. some of my favorite shots are your “stock video” clips and im always sad you didn’t snap a quick still. not sure what phone you are running, but my pixel 3a is a damn fine point n’ shoot, it does a neat trick where the 50mm equiv is more than just a crop with its fancy computer, multi exposure tricks.
“Slow considered fashion”, something that I am learning to do Steve with your help. Recently went out with my one and only digital system and tried NOT to “rattle off loads of shots like it’s digital” and felt the benefit of slowing down and taking photos not snaps, it felt good and I am happy with the shots. Trying to think with the limitations of a single roll of 35mm film even though using digital is a good discipline I reckon so I appreciate your considered approach, it’s gradually sinking in!! BTW, the Nikon may not be waterproof but I think you will find you are 😊. Excellent stuff, thank you.
Oddly enough Steve, I did exactly the same thing today - only with a Nikon FE2 coupled with 24mm and 50mm lenses and with Rollei Infra Red film. Of course you need the tripod anyway with that sort of film stock, but I’ve always felt that the most important aspect of photography is good composition; and using a tripod and shooting at a slower, more considered pace goes a long way to help achieve one. Your videos and communication are brilliant - keep up the good work!
I shoot a great deal hand held myself. I’ve got a pretty steady hand. I’ve just bought an old Canon Canonet 28 rangefinder camera with a fixed 40mm lens. I shall be putting it through its paces in the last flush of Autumnal colours. Since my DSLRs gave me back problems over many years I prefer to travel extremely light. That’s why I shoot APSC mirrorless cameras for my digital work. Time to dust off my hand held light meter and peel back the technology to work slower and more methodically. Your images today were beautiful and the colours just take me back to the 80’s and 90’s when I shot 100% on film.
Another great video Steve! Whenever I want medium format quality out of 35mm I take my Canon camera with some L Glass, some Ilford Delta or even HP5+ and go to some forest where the dark tones help me get little grain photos.
Hi Steve brilliant video and great photos.. As someone who uses both a digital camera and and analog one I seem to gain much more satisfaction from using my old camera and then developing and scanning the photos myself than when using my digital camera and I think this comes across in the photos which I make too - simply more thought out. I also agree totally with the part that no one apart from other photographers pixel peep your images. The quality of a photograph should not really be judged by how sharp it is in the corners or whether there is a bit of chromatic aberration in a small part of an image but on the artistic qualities it has. And who cares how many frames a second a camera can take. Too many people get wrapped up in the latest technology and forget that it isn't the technology which makes the photo but the person behind the camera. I think that in someways we are conditioned though dare I say it some you tubers and the media. So it is really great that you focus more on the photography side of things... which is really the main thing...
Totally agree, the technology now dominates and images are secondary. Whilst I can make good pictures using digital cameras I do feel a bit detached from the process and find the amount of options counterproductive.
Brilliant Steve, of course I've come to expect nothing less from your videos. Your results, regardless of the equipment you use, are consistently captivating. Do I recall in a previous video or perhaps in the comments you threatening a half frame camera episode?
Lovely Images, Steve ! i am shooting Film since the late 80s, but since digital only occassionally, but i never had given it up (35mm Film) Since 2019, almost only Film again, but usually only about 2 to 4 Rolls within a year.
Those were great shots! Had a bit of a Joe Cornish feel about them. Only better. Good to see the FE in use. It is my favorite camera of the Nikons I own.
I have been back into film photography for a few months now and find many parallels in your videos. I like your style and feel at this point I am confident I could pick out your prints from a large group taken from many sources. I use my 35mm cameras for recon to a new place with the intention of returning with the medium format. Mostly this is handheld, quicker as you point out and with three or four bodies loaded with different films. However, sometimes I do as you have done and take my Nikon F2 and two or three prime lenses along with the tripod out and use my handheld spot meter. I find about half the time when I return with the MF cameras I end up using some of the 35mm shots. You are right, those lovely old lenses have great glass and are a tactile joy to operate. I have a question: What is that filter system you are using as it seems to be adaptable to both formats?
Hi and thank you for your great videos, I enjoy them very much. As Im "new" to film processing and scanning, how many % do you scan your 35mm film to. like A4 is about 800 times the size of the negative. best regards Eirik
Very inspiring video. I do actually like the restriction of 15 shots on MF (I shoot 645) and sometimes find 36 exposures too many. But 35mm is cheaper per frame, so it does give the flexibility of bracketing, as you demonstrated. I tend to fall into the habit of “Mamiya 645 for landscape, 35mm Canonet for street/travel”, but I do have a 35mm Practika and some M42 lenses lurking about, so might give your idea a go! I love the print. What paper was it printed on if you don’t mind me asking?
Thanks Mark. I also used to split my photography between 35mm and 120 depending on the subject matter but use them fairly interchangeably now. The paper is just a cheap Epson matte material which is surprisingly good although I will also use thicker textured papers at times.
New subscriber here. Thoroughly enjoyed watching, some great images and an inspiring watch. I shoot 35mm (as well as digital) and scan at home with a plustek 8200i SE so this was very useful, many thanks.
Another great vlog Steve, thank you. Do you think the slower approach is a throw over from LF? This last year I have adopted the LF approach to other formats with good results. Got to agree with a good lens and decent slide film = decent prints. Cheers Diz
Thanks Diz. I’m looking to take more care when shooting film and make less exposures in future trips. I definitely get a higher percentage of keepers the less film I shoot.
A very inspiring video. I always struggle to meter for reversal film, often end up being too bright or too dark. Any tips how to get good exposure with it? I only have external lightmeter Sekonic L-308. Thank you
Hi Mustakim. Reversal films are by far the hardest to meter for, I’ll be doing a video covering exactly how I meter for them in the future. I don’t think the L-308 has a spotmetering function so it can be a little bit trickier.
Thanks Chris. I predominantly use a GoPro Hero 7 Black and attach a Rode VideoMicro or sometimes the Rode Smartlav if I want to travel extremely light.
Nicely done Steve, it's all too easy to spray and pray even with landscapes when using 35mm or digital. Some great images there and I'd be interested to know if you process your own E6?
Thank Alan. I occasionally process my own E6 but not often due to my low volumes. I do far more C41. Years ago I did all my own E6 in the kitchen sink of my flat with just a basic tank and those slides still look great today 🙂
Steve, what made you go with a 4/3 camera over a Sigma DP Merill or Quattro camera? Everything I read about them its like shooting with 100 ISO film. I know the 4/3 video was while back but I'm posting it here so you can see it. Also, regarding 35mm film, I've tried it before and it doesn't make much sense to me. Used to own a F100 and with "make every single shot count" philosophy taking 36 shots takes forever! Plus if you're going to be using a tripod you might as well use medium format! I got myself a FUJI GA645 which I use when I travel (16 shots per roll) and when I feel like being a real photographer like you :) I use a FUJI GW690III that takes 8 shots and use a light meter. As far as tripods go, just get a small tripod one. I'm never carrying a full size one again when I travel because it's just not needed.
Hi David. I fell for M/43 largely due to the compact size and amazing stabilisation, lenses are ridiculously good too and so light. I’ve considered Sigma cameras but been out off by the general lack of development and support. I’ve tried so many different camera systems to get small and lightweight without losing too much quality but there is no silver bullet. I also owned a Fuji 645 and work with old folders up to 6x9 but lens choice is obviously limited. Ultimately if you want a good selection of focal lengths it will be very heavy and/or bulky in medium format whereas ringing every bit of quality out of 35mm can offer a viable alternative, especially with a top quality scanner.
Thanks for the video, as always, Steve! I love the shots. I'm quite interested in the scanning video though. I'm facing a dilemma with scanning: I have an access to a borrowed V600, which I find quite on the border of acceptable quality for 135 scanning. I know that dedicated 135 scanner would be the best. But if I'm buying a scanner for myself, I'd have budget for only one scanner. And since I'd like to be able to also scan 120 film, dedicated 135 scanners kinda fall out of the option. So the question is, do you think you wouldn't be satisfied with the scan from your V700? And since V700 is out of production, would V800 cross the threshold of acceptable quality? Your thoughts?
Tricky one (I’ve been there and still am). The v700 or v800 will always be marginal with 35mm, definitely capable of A2 with the right film/negative/lens combination but it’s always going to be a push. For 120 and above those scanners are a lot better. The other option is using a digital camera which can potentially do everything to a higher quality but there are some other drawbacks - that’s the video I’m planning for the future 🙂
@@SteveONions Well, to be fair, he tells in this video that you should normally go slow (even with digital), but that you have to be fast sometimes … ;-) Me, I'm experimenting with pinhole at the moment (replaced the not-so-good lens of my Ercona II by an adapter"to screw in self-made E37 pinhole holders), and there you're at some minutes exposure time really fast. No way to speed this up! :-)
Another great story Steve. Really good! I would love to know more about the Minolta 5400 film scanner. Is it really 5400 DPI native or is that sampled up? Your print was really good and I should mention, that is one thing that I really like about your videos is that you actually make a print! Keep'em coming!!
Thank you. The Minolta is a genuine 5400dpi scanner although personally I see little improvement over my older 4000dpi Coolscan. Once you get above about 4000dpi the gains are really very small and only worth having on the very best images taken with slow films and great lenses.
I have the Minolta 5400 (two of them actually!) They are amazing.. better than lab scans in many ways because you are in full control. Resolution is probably ~4500dpi in reality.. according to tests I've read on the internet. Although I know mine is picking out detail at the 36MP level (which is 5000 dpi) afte comparisons with 36MP digital shots of the same scene.
@Bobby Brady The one you link to is possibly not working. The seller says the film holder doesn't appear to go all the way in, so it could be broken - sold as untested as far as I can see. There are two working ones for £250+ . I wouldn't say the Minolta Dimage 5400 is "fast" at full res, but it does create excellent scans, especially on fresh films.
I'm glad I subscribed as this is the second video tonight that is in sync with my recent thoughts. While out in the Canadian Rockies I brought my Yashica TLR and my F80, and I enjoyed the slow process with the Yashica but appreciated the features of the F80, but it's complete automation didn't sit right. I currently have a Nikon FM in the mail so I'm hoping to do as you have done here. Do you use the Aperture Priority feature of your FE much or do you mostly shoot manual? Thanks for another great video!
Good timing. I went out with a pair of FE’s yesterday 🙂. I will use aperture priority at times for handheld shooting but if I’m being more methodical it’s easier to use manual. I don’t mind using whatever method works best, aperture priority is great in fast changing light.
@@SteveONions using AE in fast changing light is a good point, likely very useful for sunrise and sunsets vs trying to keep up by continually changing manual settings. Thanks again.
Very nice results from a beautiful trip with the right equipment and approach! Do you always print with your own printer? And which Epson printer and what paper are you using?
Although I am concentrating on large format now, I am coveting :) your 35 mm images. It's as though having a palace, one still misses a cozy little flat :) (lame analogy, I know, but I'm stubborn and am not changing anything:)
I like your analogy Gene 🙂. I’ve lost count if the number of times I have committed to use only medium and large format only to dig out the Nikon’s from the back of the cupboard a few months later.
Always watch your videos and they’re a bit special because I’m down the road in Sale. I’ve spent 30 years disappointing myself with 35mm and the last ten trying to get what I wanted with Leica M and Leica S digital. Now gone back completely to 100% MF film from 6x6 to 6x17. Never going back to 35mm. Good luck to you with it. :-)
Do you colour edit the film photographs after scanning Steve? As I know, the scanners scan the films by adjusting their colours each of them on their own way. In this case, how do we keep the colours as it comes out from the film? Thank you for the video & content.
I do adjust them a little Aytac and you are right that each program handles colour differently. It’s not really a problem with slide film but a real issue with colour negatives.
Steve! Thanks for this--good tips all along. However, for me the real work comes once I return to the darkroom with my rewound 35mm. There, I have to choose processing that will optimize contrast and accutance. I want results that I can enlarge to ca. 11x14 and that will come close to what I get from my 120 Zeiss folder. My standard answer for years has been Kodak Tri X and HC 110 developer. However, I would be interested in other combinations from you and/or other diehard film users.
It's a lot easier to get a good result from a scan Jeremy but nowhere near as satisfying as a darkroom version. There's nothing to match the larger formats when it comes to a smooth B&W print but I do like the strong grain that a 400 speed film gives in 35mm. In terms of film/dev combinations I'm sure you know that there are too many to list and it's just a case of finding one that works for you and sticking with it. All the best
@@SteveONions Thank you, Steve! I gravitate between 35mm (35mm Summicron) and 120 (Zeiss Ikonta folder.) I find getting a good enlargement from 35mm a chore and a challenge. My go-to for years has been Kodak HC 110 and Tri X, but alas, it appears that Kodak has reworked 110 and drastically shortened shelf time. Perhaps I will try substituting my favorite Turkish raki.
The final shot after sunset was particularly evocative. Mood has nothing to do with absolute image quality, technically perfect photographs are often rather sterile and forensic IMO. I look forward to seeing your experiments with digital camera copying before I do my own! ; )
Thank you, I’m still working out how to do the scanning video so it fairly represents each type of device I want to compare, it’s harder than I initially thought.
Good comment on lens selection being driven by desired perspective rather than just framing. Zoom lenses tend to make photographers disregard the importance of this, using the zoom only as a variable framing device.
Once we take back the thinking from the camera, and instead task ourselves with all the decisions, we have no choice but to slow down. I believe it’s why many of us photographers of a certain age are becoming bored with photography through technology.
I find the older cameras somehow easier to work with than modern devices as there is so little in terms of controls I can concentrate on the image instead.
I do the same thing with my FE but especially the F3. This is much heavier than my other SLR's and with a waist level finder it feels like a small MF camera. Also, the point about the size of the film is put into perspective when you consider your own recent video on printing from MF3. I have recently bought a Pen F film camera and now view 35mm as quite big!
I’d love a half frame camera but I don’t think I’d ever finish a roll of film! I did have an F3 once but kept coming back to the FE - I now have two of them and also two FE2’s 😀
I enjoyed this video. I've been working in the same direction. You've given some good thought provoking ideas. I use canon A1 and EF ( black beauty) need an 85 mm lens.
Truly inspiring. I often think of 35 mm as the “alternative” format when the others become a little too routine. You, though, are such a fine photographer that any format will do. Just wondering: what resolution was the scan?
If you hadn't said the location, the shot of the tree against the sandstone wall backdrop looks like it could have been taken in Zion National Park. Nice.
Hi Steve. Do you use your cameras internal light meter or do you have to use a external spot meter as the camera one is not that accurate. Cheers Julian
Hi Julian. I typically use a handheld spotmeter but the centre weighted metering of the older Nikon’s is very good too and for scenes with a limited dynamic range I’m happy to rely on them.
@@SteveONions thanks for the answer mate :) did you shot the same roll the entire day ? With such a different kind of ranges, may i ask you how you did manage to find the right balance in each pictures ? I supposed it as to do with the exposure scroll wheel but as i'm learning film photo I'm not really shure.
I typically shoot the whole roll in one day, largely because I need to develop and scan the film for the vlog. It can be difficult to balance the light for each scene, especially with slide film where you need graduated neutral density filters.
I really like that slow approach and the pictures are beautiful. Im always amazed about the good compositions you are able to find. Which app do you use for the "pre-visualisation" of your shots?
Thanks Marten. I use an app called Artists viewfinder MkII on my iPhone. It is simple but effective for assessing the basic composition and best focal length to use.
kamel eddine Taibi yes. Unless you’re making prints bigger than 8x10 a flatbed scanner will work fine. I have a very cheap flatbed scanner that I scan my film that I develop at home, and for my needs it’s great. Do you print your work, or do you want the scans more for social media/website?
Hmmmm, good question. The answer is that I used to feel this, sometime I wished I’d used a better lens or sharper film but nowadays I tend to like the image for what it is and make the most of it in post production.
I have no problems to slow down with 35 mm, even handheld. But perhaps I am just lazy and sometimes just like to look at scenes. Only a few years ago (like 25 or 30) two 35 mm films used to last a whole two week holiday!
@@SteveONions Yeah that's what I figured too. By the way I got myself a 4x5. Uploading my video as I type this. What a fun camera to use. I think I'll have a lot of fun shooting with it.
