I don't like the plate and lame is what we call them. Several friends have them. I like the ten -meter DE filter I have. I can push a 90 bbl batch through at 6 microns pretty easily. My new assistant watches your videos a bunch. So I had to know what she was talking about. Your videos are good and informative. You seem cool and I'd love to have a beer with you at CBC. Cheers dude.
Is there a risk of oxidation here?, it seems to me by the look of the sight glass in the bright tank that the beer was oxidized. If not, could you explain why not?. It doesn't seem like a closed circuit to me.
thank you so much for sharing all these great videos. my question is can I use Plate and Frame Filter Technique using only one UNITANK ? can I recirculate only on one unitank with out transfer ? let me know me know please what's your thoughts on that? cheers from mexico !
Great video! I have a question: The first time that you used your filter (when it was brand new) did you do anything special has a passification point of view or you simply used the same technique that you did in your video? We just bought the same kind of filter and we were wondering because we are not sure of the validity of the info that we were given. Thanks
Sorry for this dumb question. Are there any styles that you won't filter? I understand you wouldn't filter a hazy, but with a West Coast IPA for instance; does the filter remove any nose or flavor from the larger hop additions, or are those microns too small to be filtered?
You said your hoses were packed with sanitizer. Does that include the incoming hose putting sanitizer through the filter before you put the 185 degree water through it?
Fantastic introduction to filtering! I've got a question on the sterile de-aerated water you mentioned around 8:48 - I assume that's something you produce on-site. Is that basically just boiled water that's been chilled? Do you have a dedicated vessel for this or just keep a couple kegs in the cooler with de-aerated/sterile water in? And when - in your overall workflow - do you find that it's most optimal to bring your volume of sterile/de-aerated water back up?
+Michael Tangen Sterile deaerated water is best but not necessary. We are hooked into city water that is chlorinated to kill microbes. We then filter out the chlorine and fill up a cold liqueur tank (CLT). This bulk water tank has a carbonation stone that you can bubble CO2 through to lower water oxygen level. This is not sterile or truly deaerated but works. In the morning just fill her up or night before and chill with glycol for brewing the next day.
I know that nowadays many microbreweries don't even filter even if they would whirlpool and chill the fermented beer before packaging and I even visited one that stopped using this plate filter you show in this video. in your opinion what is the main reason for using such a filter besides a clearer beer?
Filters also help to catch solids that come out of the fermenter. I'm a brewer at a 2 bbl brewpub and before we started filtering our line during transfer, we had hop matter clogging our taps. It also helps keep trub out of the beer if you accidently get into the yeast cake.
Good question, some of those breweries may still use biofine (cellar fining agent) to clear their beers. But I think you are asking about hazy vs clear beer. Ill start off by saying you can make great beers either way. -Some judged styles require a certain level of clarity or haziness. -Haze may settle out in kegs or bottles causing bottoms of kegs to pour really dirty and lose draft accounts and customers. -Haze can cause mouth-feel and flavors to the beer. -The big one is Hazy beers have a lower shelf life. -Haze is mostly made up of a protein-polyphenol complex. This is what oxygen will attack to cause staling (oxidized) flavors in beer. Oxidized polyphenols can also cause a color change to the stored beer. A browing color, same reaction as pushing your thumb into an apple. -High protein-polyphenol can act a buffer in beer and raise the pH, Making it more habitable for spoilage microbes. -Since proteins are made up of amino-acids, spoilage microbes can use this as a potential nutrient source. Hope this helps, Cheers!
+Daz Will There seems to be a million ways to make beer (decoction, single infusions, double mash)....conical fermenters, Yorkshire squares, Burton union system, barrels...ect But thanks for watching how I get the job done, cheers!
Presoaking your filter pads in sani prior to loading them significantly cuts down on leak-by it also allows the pads to receive more soil load because the cells are open. Sheets cant expand when there is pressure on them. Also I would recommend a room temp sani loop vs a bake out which is rough on the noryl plates. I would recommend bleeding co2 in reverse to a FV tee block to clear O2 before. Then purge the FV racking arm to drain before beer to the plates as not to blind the pads. You should bleed the sight valves at the filter before bleeding to the drain at the bright Tee block. Always use a bottom in, top out loop on the frame assembly.
Hello, simple answer is no, if you purge the line with co2. Deep answer is evertime there is another gasketed connection it brings risks. Hope this helps, cheers!
Great video! I couldn't quite count the number of filters you had to use there. I was wondering if there would ever be a situation where you would use fewer filters? What I mean is, if I had a 7BBL brewhouse vs a 15, would the number of plates I need change? Or is this one of those things where you really gain some economies of scale with a larger brewhouse?
I’m no expert but I believe there are smaller filters that would use smaller sheets, but I think it must pass through a certain amount of times for the filtering process to be effective, otherwise they wouldn’t produce the plate filter rigs to use so many sheets every time.
Awesome like always! Thank you! I have a doubt... why you pass cold water through the filters after pass hot water (85°)? Aren't you "contaminating" your plates with the cold water? (I mean, potable water has some microbiology indeed)... Another doubt, you pass peracetic acid through the filters in some part of the process? Thank you!
Brewery Life first at all Jasper we really miss your videos I hope you are doing well. I would suggest just to use water (cold) sterilized through 0,2 um membrane filter and avoid PAA due to oxidizing effect of it. Greetings from Argentina
Very simple explanation to the plate & frame. But please someone tell me how much time does it take to filter 20HL of beer. I searched everywhere. I am not getting results
what is your opinion on not using these plates as filter and not using any filter besides only chilling and maturation before packaging? Do all high class breweries and breweries famous for NE IPA use such filters? what if you make a hefe weizen, do you also want to pass it through such filter or not? and if you would want, why so?
I do not filter most of my beers, love it. Chilling works just fine especially in a pub. Packaging unfiltered beer is commonly done it just needs to be drank sooner and closer to home. All breweries are different, they may do nothing, some may pasteurize (flash or tunnel), or some may filter then add post filtration haze. Brewers use filters to remove haze. Haze is known to lower beers shelf life. Cheers!
Thanks for the comment! I do not filter with DE. The beer comes out really clear. A perfect DE filter run can produce scientifically brighter beer but it's hard to tell from ones eye. No, the filter sheets do not clog up, but they can if operated incorrectly. 8 Micron nominal pore size. Cheers!
