A TT02 is great, we raced them at our club for ages and my young lad still does a spec class in them, but you'll love the precision and quality of the Yokomo kit. Massively surprising just how well these go, alongside top line kits! Fire any questions you need to at me! 🙂
You should give your compressor a name for when it ‘speaks’ in a video 😅 Great to have some insights into more entry level touring. I may start with a Tanya and then progress. That’s if I get time from our buggies. My lad is the same age as yours.
Not so much a name, but I call it plenty, when it goes off and I'm not expecting it 😂😂 I maintain it's a great hobby for youngsters. So many skills to learn, and I'm still hanging out with friends I made through it, 30 years ago 😉
My BD11 is definitely a more focussed race car, but the RS1.0 is definitely more forgiving on track. The big thing is though, that someone new to the class, or racing on a budget can buy a new car for £200 and its pretty close to the pace. Still, love my BD11 too!
Hi David, all parts for this came from MB Models (rccarshop.com) except the Schumacher ARB Mounts, which came straight from Schumacher (racing-cars.com) I'm not sure about availability elsewhere, I'm afraid. Part numbers are listed in the video if that helps at all.
Hi, I had an RS200 body for my M05, but never ran it! I painted it up in Pat Dorans' Q8 Oils colours and just kept it on display (I love a bit of old Group B) it was low, which would help, but a fairly heavy lexan and very little room in the arches to play with track width etc. it looks fantastic, though. I ended up running a Protoform Europa M, or a Bitty Hibera M most of the time. The Ride BRZ is usually the go-to M chassis body at our club.
Hi, there's no specific kit that I've seen yet, but I had a bit of a play about with older available bits and pieces. It's outlined, with the required parts in this video I did a while back. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IoIErTN91FU.html Hope that helps! Any questions, pop here or you can always get me on the GingaPaint FB page.
I've not thought about popping the toe-in gauge on the back, but Im pretty sure it's 3°. It uses the older BD8/9 rear hubs and a moulded version of the suspension mounts, so I'd be very surprised if there wasn't an option to reduce toe-in, in the back catalogue. On track, I didn't feel like it needed to be reduced, but every track is different.
@@Gingapaint maybe i need to reassemble the arms but mine seems to have quite a bit of toe, i’ll look into it, this is my first “competition” type car/kit and so far it’s great. can’t wait to run it, thanks for the response!
@@xKINGxZERx I'm now curious.... I'll pop mine on the setup gauges before the weekend and have a look, but 3° is pretty normal. Does look a bit strange if you're not used to it, after Tamiya TT02s etc have 0° as standard.
Hi, unfortunately we run on different layouts every meeting indoors, so they'll be irrelevant to compare. I was definitely closer to the overall pace with the BD11, but the RS1.0 wasn't far away at all, considering the price point!
@@space_cowboy007some parts carry over, but not them all. Front hubs and castor blocks are the same. Some steering components and some transmission bits. Interestingly, the diffs are different, I tried to fit a BD11 spool, but the RS has a slightly smaller diameter diff pulley.