I keep waiting for the day when Chris says "and today we're gonna put a windshield on the trophy truck so we don't get covered in 2 inch thick layers of mud" lol one day maybe
I'm still in love with the trophy truck fiberglass body. That said, I love the look of the panels. Hell, call it Frankentruck or some other play on the monster. 👍👍
For the vacuum control you should go back and add a thin rubber gasket between the steel plate and the aluminum body, not to seal it but to give a barrier to avoid any galvantic corrosion between the aluminum and steel. Also a gasket on the handle in the closed position to keep mud out would not hurt. A bead roller would do wonders to deaden the sound on the panels as well as again a thin rubber barrier between the steel tabs and aluminum. Bead rolled panels also would be aesthetically pleasing and reduce the Frankenstein look. Have you considered finishing the off in machine turned pattern? Think 77 trans am dash or spirit of saint Lewis nose.
Damn dude You do such a good job at custom modifying everything! And after watching the video where you took it out in the mud, any type of panels on the outside to help block it from completely caking the inside is awesome! Great work, can't wait to see you when this is totally done!
Paint one side of the handle of the hub locker so you will know what side it up when on the trail since with vibration will most likely cause them to spin. I would also try to add a dust boot to keep dirt and crud out of the back side of the plungers and wearing out the seal or carry a couple spares when out on the trail. Great job as always.
Not that you want those panels to take longer...but you ought to dimple die them for strength and less rattle. Nice work and I look forward to your videos on Sundays!
Don't worry about the "Frankenstein's Monster" look. With paint, that will all disappear, especially at distance. Just add some stripes or shapes that accent the lines you want. Awesome job on the air lockers. o0 wow that's high tech.
If you buy a vacuum switch out of a old jeep quadrotrac system it would work great , look better and it's much smaller than the system you're using. 80's Dodge ram chargers also used a vacuum system to lock the hubs in
Looks tough as nails. I think the bolts and separate paneling make it look "authentically hand-crafted" as opposed to "Frankenstein-ed"... Awesome video man!
I hope the best for WinRock. You put a lot of time into the truck. I think it looks good. My critiques are just little things, so don't think I have not enjoyed this whole series. It was fantastic to watch.
When I worked on fully aluminum fishing boats we would "acid wash" the boats in the fall. We used aluminum rim cleaner watered way down in a garden sprayer. Spray on, hose off and it looks great, kind of shiny even. You can buy rim cleaner in big rectangular jugs. Mixed 20 to 1 is plenty strong. Spray top to bottom to avoid streaks.
I found this channel yesterday. It's been a crazy 24 hours, I kept getting the mini baja bug video recommended, and based on thumbnail, all I thought was oh great grind hard plumbing is still making the same recycled project for 18th time. Then I saw the Kawasaki electric dirt bike video and realized it was someone completly different and the projects are way more in depth. Glad I realized my mistake, my bad chris. I joined patreon to make up for it.
If you want cheap plastic panels you can get plastic barrels cut the tops and bottoms off split them down one side and flatten them out and it's a durable plastic good for panels and stuff like a roof or hood
Fenders made from them is what I keep think when he's built so many that needed them.The plastic is Tough. Heating the plastic to flatten is a Great plan.
Use those syringes for bleeding brakes,.just a length of silicone hose and hang them upright. Leave the bleed nipple open and you still get a slight "pedal resistance" feel and any air rises out of the way !
Vacuum acts like pressure, so, as long as there are no real restrictions, all the vacuum levels would be same through everything hooked up on the same set of lines. It would have involved making you vacuum "syringe" twice the size, but you could have made just one, if you had used a similar roll-pin design to differentiate the 2 vacuum levels. You could have also made 2 "syringes" and used one for engagement and the second for disengagement. Like I said though, there cannot be much restriction...well, at least not much restriction difference between the right and left lines...so, decently sized hoses the same length for the 2 sides. Also, you could have gotten away with just buying some pneumatic pistons to act like the syringes. Manufacturers like Clippard sell them very readily.
I'm not thinking Frankenstein, but more steam punk look. I think it looks great and very functional. Personally think you should invest in a bead roller for the bigger panels to keep them from oil canning and rattling so much when you ride. Just a thought don't beat me up over a simple suggestion. Looking excellent so far.
All them scraps of metal should melt back down the amount of scaps you probably have laying around from all your projects, love the content your work is amazing the output of your videos is amazing as well love from 🇬🇧
Always a pleasure to watch you work! Might consider adding another door jam piece reinforcing the door from being pushed inwards, from a collision with a tree or another on the trail.
Just got home after the 2nd Metallica concert I attended this weekend. Perfekt winddown from a long weekend before hitting the sack! Goodnight and thanx for awesome videos as always!
I absolutely love watching anything to do with machining metal. Its mesmerising! Can’t wait for the day I finally get one and put some time into learning the art
Buy a couple rolls of dynamat or Killmat or whatever sound deadening mat you prefer and then cover the inside of the doors and whatever panels are noisy. Sometimes you don’t even need to cover it completely. You’re just looking to reduce resonance and vibration. This has been my favorite project. I hope you will someday build a street legal project, possibly even a daily driver. Homemade pickup? That would be pretty slick.
Sourcing similar volume pneumatic cylinder actuators would have been easier, they pull a nice vacuum too if the seals are fine. Very robust construction of course as they are made for industrial use.
If I may make a suggestion on reducing panel noise when on the trails. I would suggest to buy a thin rubber mat from Amazon or somewhere and cut it into square or rectangle pieces and place it between the panels and the frame holder and noise vibrations should be reducing significantly.
On the very first truck i owned, a 1988 f150 sbsc. My dad and i built a WICKEDLY high strung 390 that probably made 650 hp at the flywheel judging from the fact in my big old ford with 37 inch tires i used to blow the doors off my buddies 2006 subaru STI up to 130 mph...yup...my truck did a VERIFIED 131 mph. We did a turbo 400 trans, atlas tcase, 2005 super duty axles front and rear with qa1 coilovers. I bought every tool i needed plus every part myself from selling cigarettes id steal from my parents to all the older kids at school, mowing lawns, washing windows, babysitting, whatever I could do. I was 14 when we started building the truck we finished it literally the day before i turned 16 and the next day i failed my drivers test before we even started driving. I started my truck and whacked the throttle a little bit. Apparently the people over at the Nevada DMV arent horsepower enthusiasts because this woman flipped her goddamn cookies on me and failed me right then and there. I tried to explain it has a carburetor and a high compression engine blah blah blah but she wasnt having it. Anyway what i did for the hubs was weld a 1 1/2 inch flat tab on the chingadera u turn to lock them bitches in. I would carry this long ass piece of bamboo i had attached a link of a heavy chain i cut to look like a fishing hook. I would just lean out my window with that bad boy, turn them hubs and wed be squared away jack. My friends always got such a kick out of it i dont know why.
If I were you I think I would strongly consider remaking your lunger assembly. Instead of using syringe plungers, I would make some solid aluminum pistons with O-rings for the sealing method. You'll get much better performance out of this method and O-rings will cost less than buying syringes to replace.
There's a method of shrinking the metal in places, to reduce the panels drum like characteristics. I forget what it was called, but it didn't take long.
My question is, why does one need locking hubs? Love the build tho, can't wait for the paint job, and I'm honestly waiting to see another ride in the reverse trike
That is neat :) it was kinda funny with those plastic ones though :) Sorry for saying this on this "late" respons platform. But you could have had a Dual piston 2 way assembly with one 2 or 1 button. Spring action just like a Lock mechanism that drawers use, Over the edge for lock over the edge for release. But hey if you read this you might have another chance in the Future. i mean it might save a tiny weight and make it neat(advanced)... But thats just a NTH
I was wondering if the engine made enough intake vacuum to use through an ARO - electric air solenoid 🤔 just like a brake booster does for power brakes?? Then again… I’m no expert, I’m a novice when it comes to your mad skills. Gotta say following along with your builds has been awesome. Especially the electric dirt bike using the engines gear ⚙️ box. I look forward to each video 👍
I do a slight bend a every 6 ou 8", or sometime in x patern. This prevent the sheetmetal make this terrible sound, you definately need to give this a try next time
Why wouldnt you use a small vaccum pump on a switch? Much better than plungers. Thats a bit archaic. I get it that it works. Still. Your doing more work machining parts than it would take to install the pump.
