Let me add some comments from personal experience related to fuel lines and similar. My car is a 944 turbo 1986, which, prior to my purchase, had sat for 7 years while the estate of the original owner was sorted out. Car only had 45.5K miles on it when I took ownership in June 2021. A lot of work was done to the car prior to me receiving it, replacing tired hoses, brake lines, fuel filter, etc, but the fuel lines and associated were not touched. The timing and balance shaft belts were replaced in October of last year. In late November I noticed a significant vibration at idle - this is notoriously caused by bad engine mounts, and that was my problem - they were replaced in mid-December. Come January, I opened the garage door and I could smell fuel... that is never good. However, after a good look, both at the back around the fuel pump and fuel tank, and in the engine bay, I couldn't see anything. I (foolishly) took the car out, and made it back home safe... however, going back into the garage, after 30 mins or so, again I could smell fuel. This time I found the problem in the engine bay - not the fuel lines - but the rail itself had cracked near the fuel pressure regulator. Now I could clearly see there was a leak - nothing crazy, but I could feel the coldness of the fuel and even a tiny drip of gasoline will smell like a gallon! I never could be 100% certain, but one of the seams in the rail had cracked. (I tried replacing the regulator hoping it was that leaking, but no). It seems the original Porsche fuel rail is no longer available, so my choices were a used one (hello EBay) or an after market replacement. I'm not a fan of used parts for something like this - why would another 30+ year part be any better than the one that just failed? In the end I replaced the rail and all the lines in the engine compartment with the Lindsey Racing rail and kit, which included all the lines, insulation and the tube cutter. At the same time I had my injectors refurbished. The reason the rail failed is likely because the bad engine vibration shakes the heck out of anything hanging off the engine, which of course the rail is, being bolted to the top of the cam housing. As it turned out my fuel lines actually seemed in reasonable shape, but I'm happy they are now new and routed as much as possible away from that nasty hot exhaust header... :-) One other possible failure with bad engine mounts is the oil pickup tube breaking, so watch your oil pressure if you get bad vibration at idle!!! To close, this video would have been invaluable to me when I did my lines, as it exactly captures all the steps -well done!
Thank you, Neil, this is an invaluable contribution to this topic and conversation! Note-To-Self: Monitor state of engine mounts!! Thanks again, Neil 👍🏻
Thank you! ...one day I hope we'll able to combine your talent for making beautiful automotive content and my...er...gift of making things up as I go along! 😅
Thank you for watching. Yes, it may be because of my approach which is less about the car and more about the learning journey - I’m not trying to build a show car, I’m pushing to learn all I can about automotive repair. Thanks again - I look forward to interacting with you more as additional videos are added.
Nice tip about the BlazeCut system -- I will be getting one myself. I caught my leaky 944 fuel lines just in time. Can't do too much fire prevention / preparation in a 40-year old car!
BY-THE-BYE: That vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator I broke - it must have been properly cracked before because after the jerry-rig, she is now running so much better! NOTE TO MY FUTURE SELF: Search out and 🩹fix vacuum leaks! AND: Devin responded saying that there are usually 1.5 to 2 threads still visible when he tightens the ferrule connectors down.
The fitting you need to reliably connect to pressure dampener is called DKM it is rounded 60degree cone that is not available on the market. How are you sure that the connection is reliable? Or maybe you used it, where have you bought it? I asked 15+ companies in Germany.
Hi there - Bleeding a system is most often associated with removing unwanted air from that system. In the case of our fuel systems and this procedure, air in the system is not a problem. What you want to ensure before beginning any hose removal and cutting is that the system is no longer pressurised. Even with the engine off, the system will be under pressure for a while after the car has been running but this tapers off the longer it sits. If you let the car sit for a couple of ours or even overnight before doing the change over there might be a little residual fuel in the lines but it will no longer be pressurised.
Hi Craig - thanks for letting me know. I'm not sure why that is. Here is his FB profile - try messaging him here: facebook.com/devin.lyons.98 If you haven't heard from him in a week or two, try using my link again? ...or drop me a line with your contact details and I'll pass it on to him. ...oh, and order this line as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dEF5b7bspGY.html
There are a few places to start. When I first got mine, I’d smell something similar. Are you able to narrow down when the smell is most noticeable - first start / under acceleration / turning sharply one direction or another / or similar? Mine turned out to be one of my injectors leaking and needed a seal replaced, which I did off camera. Other places to check will be any connection points throughout the fuel system, including the filter, pump, tank, filler neck etc. Currently I smell raw fuel when the tank is pretty full and I take a corner a little to quickly…I need to track that one down but am already thinking it’s the seal by the fuel sender. Please keep us all updated as you do your diagnosis? All the best!
How did you know it was one of your injectors? I’m wondering if I have a similar issue with my injectors. Got a slight fuel smell in the oil as well which makes me think leaking injector.
Hmmm 🤔…thanks for the feedback - what do you suggest we do better? Please would you share a timestamp where you’d like us to have been closer to the action?
@@GTArmstrong a few times you were working under fender but camera did reposition to show what you were doing, but your arm or head was in the way (only briefly) - I figured it out eventually; another time, it was where that hose where it got detached or broken (around 11:00?)- couldn’t see where it detached from; and where you used that jumper in the fuse box (around 12:00) - didn’t see where or what you jumpered the wires in. Otherwise it was a very informative video. Thankyou.
Ah yes - the tight spots aren't always the easiest to capture footage, and, with my attention there, I'm not always able to know what is being captured. I'll pass this on to the team. As for the broken vacuum line and the fuse box - thank you - I'll push to have more detail added in these moments. YT also doesn't allow us to add more than one instance or reference to videos we have already produced, so I couldn't put a link to this video for that jumper process, which can be found here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Dq6anWRYlGA.html Thanks for watching and thank you for the feedback - invaluable as I push for better quality!
