Noise from bottom end ,Check to see if crankshaft isn’t hitting oil pan, maybe got crunched pan with no clearance for crank, also check torque converter bolts weren’t loosened by previous “ mechanic”
i would have persevered with the engine that was in car. A little bit of rusty water is nothing much to worry about and that knock sounds like a big end coming away ,just before it ventilates the block .The amount of work required would be the same.
No, I wouldn't put that in just yet. To be blunt, I would take off the oil pan and inspect the bottom end thoroughly first. I think your flex plate is the cause of the noise but that harmonic balancer has seen better days.
Before you go any farther find out what is causing the knocking noise. and the harmonic balancer is wobbling maybe the outer ring is breaking away from the rubber. you should repair or replace it to avoid excess vibration.
It’ll work. It will sound even better with some valve covers, PCV, and some pressure. Think it’s serviceable for now once you swap that harmonic balancer. Looked like a weeble wobble.
Sounds like a winner to use. The beast has come to life!!! Great watching you go through your checklist before starting. I was excited with you to see it runnnnnn.
Well its great that you had the engine sitting in the garage I would definitely do more inspecting of the bottom end before putting that engine in the Corvette.
I would perform a compression test to each cylinder to see if all 8 have comparable pressure so to make sure the engine is smooth at acceleration and just general idling
I think it would make a runner, but need to track down noise, change oil, put a garden hose in it and run for 20-30 min before I would call it good enough to drop in. you will know by then if anything ugly is going to happen
Since you've gone this far, get in on a stand & pull the pan. I'm sure you got gaskets on the shelf plus its cheap insurance & will give you piece of mind. Also I'd do a compression test & check the valve adjustments & re-adjust if required. And if everything checks out, treat it to a can of orange paint.
That was actually a steering wheel puller. I was impressed he made it work actually. Adapt and overcome. New to channel and quite enjoyable. My dad had a 78 and an 82, so I have a spot for the C3 in my heart.
Compression check the cylinders, do a leak-down test and check the plugs after running it awhile. It might be alright with only mild wear but just depends on what you want.
My 73’s distributor only has 13 degrees mech advance, which I am resolving. Check code on base of flyweight plate on the 74. They did crazy things to detune the sbc during the fuel crisis.
Hails Ben! The valve train sounds like its coming around nicely, no gobs of blue smoke so thats a plus too! I wouldn't hurt to toss it in the 72, the 72 is pretty rough already, a decent running engine in it would be cool and to see that old gal move again, exciting!!
Good job Ben. I would hook up radiator / cooling system and run to operating temp to ensure no other problems exist. You are a talented young man with good skills. Looking forward to following you on my 72" screen here in Fond du Lac, Wisconsin.
I agree with the comments on here. Anytime I've had a motor out like that it's only taken alittle extra time to drop that oil pan and it can save a ton of headaches later on. I'm curious also to see what the inside of the pan/pump screen look like, I've always either rebuilt or exchanged the oil pump, it's a cheap precaution.
74 smogger Detuned 350 vs high compression 72 350. ooooppppssss! Wrong engine, sorry I hear knocking on the Valve timing chain cover but, I didn't hear it when you took things for 1st drive. So, I figure you re-torqued the flex plat bolts, put a new Oil pump, T-chain, fuel pump, starter, water pump on and check all the valves are compressing the lifters half way, as most would do prior to installing.
I’d try to find out what that knocking sound is before I put it in the car. It might be a rod or something as simple as the flex plate hitting the dust cover.
Have you invested in an engine stand? Do a compression test first. Any big dips then it is over. Take the tranny off mount it to an engine stand, hook up a makeshift radiator, and put some mufflers on the exhaust. Let it run listen for knocks and chatters. Throttle it and see if it is blowing any smoke, check for blow-by. If it passes all of the then stick it in.
Half awake this Sat morn. could of sworn I smelled gas. But an engine stand, minor inspection would be my next step. But a floor start made for an interesting video, but only a young guy would put his back thru that. good luck👍
That engine has some potential. Might be fun to try some solid state ignition, intake, cam, and possibly the heads from the white Vette. I can’t recall if they were damaged or not. Just a thought man.
I think it will be just fine. I do find on engines that sit long term, any sludge gets moved to the sump by gravity and may need a good cleaning. I would pop off the sump before installing the engine..... Easer now, then when it's in the car. Are you using the trans in the car, or the one bolted to the engine?
It's will runs good I think thats sund because the shaking for not tide enough if you but in the car will sound be better... good job I was happy with that video 👍🏽👍🏽
From '88 to '94 I had a '72 coupe. Second year, swapped orig. 350 (it was very tired) with new GM 350. To this day, still have orig. 350 and plan to go with Eagle 383 lower, already have set of new aluminum AFR heads and put it in my '91 Camaro convertible.
I thought maybe it was me but nope, that balancer needs to sober up a little. You’re probably gonna have it mounted next on a stand so you can check out the pan real good, hopefully it is the problem being dented and not an internal issue, or even something just loose at this point. Doesn’t sound like a hard knock to me so fingers are crossed for you. New sub so I’ll be along for the ride so to speak. I think everyone should have at least one engine in their garage on a stand at any given time, it adds character. 😉
Love the episodes you are doing on corvettes. I’m from Sydney Australia I have a 1986 corvette I’m having a little trouble with I have refurbished the injector and new plugs and leads and new icv and pcv and new fuel pressure regulator and checked for vacuum leaks but doesn’t have any but the problem is when driving the car for an hour the revs will go up to 2000 to 2500 rpm and won’t go back to normal until the motor goes cold. And the throttle body has been cleaned so not binding up . Would love to get your input on this problem
TOO MUCH WORK...to do that 2 times. Those old 70s vets were even hard to change the spark plugs on. I would do a tear down inspection before putting that motor in. Pull the pan pull the main and rod caps off MINIMUM. to check before installing it. Personally I would do a complete tear down and Ring and bearing it at least depending on what I measured. Valve seals, possibly valve job. Do it once. Not fun to do a tear down on that one 2 times. Would want to see the cam wear, plus I would update the cam and make that sucker a runner. Just me
Didn't see a lot of oil on the valve train good idea is to remove distributer and prime the pump to make sure you are getting enough oil to keep running and safe also to prime carb vent tube it will run longer .
+before you turned it over you should have primed the oil pump until you see oil on the rockers.. that's a must if your not going to tear down an engine that old.. dry bearings no Bueno
You either need to make up a gas can so you could have the engine on longer or you can buy yourself an IV container. They are used a lot when working on motorcycles and there are people who have changed out the fittings and you did on large motors. It really makes testing engines with fresh gas very easily. I really couldn't get over the torque of that motor when you were hitting the switch. No wonder motor mounts wear out.
pull the heads & see the "soup of the day" lol starting off with a tomato bisque. next we have vegetable-beef. then black bean. finally we have the clam chowder!
Nice job man, but the last puller you used on the crank pulley? Use that first 😀 just need a solid 3 jaw or even 2 jaw puller. And for the people talking about knocking? Sounds like torque converter bolts. My 2 cents..
Excellent! And, thrilling! 💥⚡🤪 Kudos, you've taken your videography to the next level. Please upgrade your audio asap as the echo/background noise gets irritating. 🙏 All the best, 🖖🙏🇨🇦
Maybe it's my tired eyes or just the engine shaking but is it pumping oil? I'm sure the lifters are drained but there should be some oil entering the upper valve train and starting to burn (smoke) on the headers. Obviously you need to inspect the bottom end before you go through and install it. Personally I would freshen it up with a rebuild. Good Luck!
I have to agree it would be a good idea to remove the pan and just peak around. The knock noise when cranking is more than likely some teeth stripped off the flex plate. The balancer is junk. Don't use it. Be aware the 74 developed a little less HP than the 72. The 74 engine has more smog equipment on it and bit lower compression. I say if it checks out, put in. It sounded pretty good to me. By the way, who does the cool music you had playing at 5:30?
