Ahh, the good old days, when you could work on a BMW without first removing a bunch of extra stuff, using a basic set of hand tools from the hardware store.
This car is remarkably clean for a car that stood for 16 years. I am starting to think this video is bullshit or it is a huge thumbs up for BMW build quality!!! Now is the time to shoe horn an E46 M3 engine under the hood and do a brake and suspension swop ...
I had that same year 2002 in the same Malaga red paint. Was rolled by a drug dealer and got it at auction for $900 in 1983. Had a Weber and that same air cleaner. Fun cars but don't miss it one bit.
This is why some older cars need premium fuel. They form excessive amounts of carbon and start dieseling. Heard carbon buildup was such a big issue back it the 70s and 80s for BMW, they made a special sand blasting tool to blast crushed walnut through the head to avoid a teardown. Whatever crushed walnut left in the cylinder would be harmlessly burned up after starting. That's what I was told by a man that serviced them about 40 years ago.
Actually, pouring water down the intake was the service secret sauce. Advanced users would route a window washer line into the intake, hit the freeway, and apply water/alochol mixture 50/50.
@giberish9 The walnut blasting fact is definitely true, i've heard the same thing. Funny enough this is an even bigger problem on the newer direct-inject turbocharged engines, even when run strictly on premium gas/pretrol. The n54 motors are getting to the mileage where they have enough build up in the intake valves/ports to cause a performance issue, in which the cars no longer have 'the same pep'. Many owners of turbo e90 are having their intake valves/ports cleaned this way. Its also only a temporary fix, as the problem is inherent in the design. Some are reporting this problem at 100,000 miles or even less!
Also, at 9:30; it's called "dieseling" your engine is experiencing too much heat... Causing your gasoline engine to run (in reverse rotation) off of compression from the fumes leftover in the combustion chamber. No spark needed to run on compression, just like a diesel engine.
When I see those round tailights, I woukd normally associate it with a 67 or 69 model 2002, the 73 till76 or 77 model had the square tailights, it looks good, nice to see annother classic on the road again.
Today's BMW models will not last as many years as 2002. I owned 316 in 1995. At present 318 E 46. It's great that you have launched such a beautiful classic with your soul. Greetings from Poland. You are awesome :)
16years?are you sure? looks like 2 years to me max, doesnt even have rust on the brake rotors...why faking? in 16years rotors would have pits the size of the grand canyon
They less the better. There is a lot of damage you can do to an engine due to uncontrolled combustion, very much like the run-on dieseling after they turned it off.
i owned a 73 2002TI.,...say what you like about new cars. Whip that bmw into a corner and your jaw will drop. They have factory head phone jacks in center console for helmet mics
when starting a car that hasn't been running in years spray oil in the cylinder , were the plug was ,let sit over night. also draine fuel tank ,new gas
Y'all shoulda burned snother one... Malaga 1975 now barned 30 years was told to use a horse pecker plastic injector syringe with plenty of Marvel Mystery Flluid...
wtf are you on about. that's completely normal, especially with the spark plugs out.. and clearly you skipped the part where it started.. if the car sat for over a decade, of course it took some effort to start
Engine looks fairly "fresh", or at least the head. I would do a compression check on this, could be that it has higher compression internals and a stock cam. All this and low octane (old?) gas will make it diesel. Normal m10 will push 140-180psi.
Wow. I heard those cars had major issues with carbon buildup on the valves, but never knew it could diesel that bad because of it. Still impressive. Trying to remember if the carbon issue was worse on the 2002TII
I had a BMW 2002 in the late 1980`s as a winter car, to protect my 1976 Celica from ice and snow. This car was good fun, although no comfort,rel. high fuel consumption and loud....3000rpm@ 100km/h.......
I put a five speed into mine and it gets 30 mpg at 70 mph on premium gasoline. Will do a hundred in 3rd and the engine is modified with a reground cam shaft.
Nate Delage Lol thanks man! It was a lot of fun! It could be two things. Either it was way too hot and causing the gas to combust by itself when the pistons go up. Or the timing is off and it's causing fuel to keep coming in at the wrong time. Something we definitely need to fix. 😂
The engine kept on running after you turn it of because it didn't run for long time. Thru the years dirt and carbon accumulated in the combustion chamber and this starts glowing and ignites the fuel mixture. I have worked a lot with old 02 bmw and had it happen to me too a few times. Nothing to worry about, this usually go's away after a long and sporty drive. Or you could lift the head and clean it. What I did notice is that under the head cover the engine looked really clean a good sign that the engine is really fresh. You have a really nice car here for restoration. And please don't do anything stupid with it like big fenders and spoilers. These cars look best all original with European bumpers and lowered 1 inch. And that type of engine is one of the most reliable engines of BMW it is so strong that BMW used this engine in there F1 cars in the 80's and squeezing 1500hp out of it. Good luck with the 2002!
if you try started the car with the first battery it would burn all the cables ,i had one stoped around twenty years ,and it started in the second turn of the engine
They are learning, doing and trying. Having fun and sharing their experience...inspiring to us with vehicles in the "I'll get to it honey, real soon now" stage.
Yea that was a shock for us as well haha. Now that we are further in the project I think this was because of the carburetor that kept supplying the fuel. Btw you have a sweet Z. I just actually watched your video on repairing the dash. I think we will need to do that eventually as well. We have a few cracks in it.
Shafen Tahsin We bled them and that didn't do all that much. We ended up spraying penetrating fluid on the disks as we drove slowly and it freed them up. If you changed the calipers and lines, maybe it's an issue with the master cylinder? I plan to rebuild them or maybe get e21 calipers.
Do yours seize up after a bit of driving? Good way to check if the master cylinder needs work if they're sticking on once hot is to throw a bottle/bucket of cold water on the master cylinder and see if they un-stick. Worked well on my M535.
Best and safest to change wheel calipers, wheel cylinders and master cylinder at the same time when things are sticking. I did it all and it was the master cylinder. Make sure none of the steel lines have any kinks and that rubber types of lines have not swelled internally sealing of transfer of fluid. I've seen it all. Also make sure E-brake is releasing. I don't apply E-brake when vehicles are stored. They seem to always melt to the drum over extended periods of time. Bought my 1970 and power breaks did not work. Had the booster rebuilt and they still didn't work. One way valve in vacuum booster line had been reversed! Also open choke and butterfly valves all the way when spraying starter fluid into the engine before starting.
