@@sinisterhipp0 G'day, Nope, that's the actual Brand-Name. The product is about a 50/50 mixture of Kerosene or Petrol and Petroleum Ether.... Squirt it into the Intake Manifold of either a recalcitrant Petrol or Diesel Engine..., and if it can possibly fire up - then it will have a go ; and having run a bit then it will warm up & maybe run propperly after that. Just(ifiably ?) sayin', Have a good one... Stay safe. ;-p Ciao !
Best kept in the cupboard unless you want to bugger up an engine. You're better of with a heat gun,blowtorch or a bit of burning rag held up to the air intake
Hmmm. I did notice that for the first successful start it was the first time that you held the decompression handle and moved it positively to 6 o’clock - rather than spinning it. That said, that technique did not work on the second day....
Hi Tim, in my experience of starting these things, the book is correct, you crank a couple of times to build up some inertia, and then pop the decompression lever and keep cranking for a couple more turns, the inertia in the flywheel will help you crank it over compression and its much more likely to start that way. After all, you're just hoping that the inertia will bring it through compression, so keeping cranking means that it tries to fire a couple of extra times and that will mean that it starts a lot quicker. I live near the Internal fire museum in Wales, and run a small preserved railway, where we have a hand started locomotive. Plus I have a Lister A and D awaiting some restoration - oh for the time for all these things eh? Good luck with your Banford, those single cylinder engines are great.
As the instructions say, keep cranking a few turns after dropping the de-compression lever. The crank handle will automatically disconnect when it fires even when you’re holding it. On our 2 cylinder Lister, on the tug boat, we de-com both cylinders then only start one cylinder. Once it starts banging, we engage second cylinder. 👍😃
@@magnusnielsen2648 It'll be okay as long as you keep all fingers on one side of the handle - if you grip it with your thumb around it it'll snap it clean in two but as long as you're mindful of what you're doing it shouldn't really be an issue (:
This is a magical piece of engineering and I'm very much looking forward to seeing you integrate it into the charcoal project. That slow diesel thump it's a beautiful sound, none of the harshness of a modern, multi cylinder version. Glorious. Martin and Vivian, Rousay
Hi Tim, when hand cranking do not put your thumb around handle but over the top, it will save a dislocated or broken thumb if and when a kickback occurs, have fun.
If you "overflop" the bottom position, it does not start, because the upward movement break compression, when itˋs most needed. Donˋt flop it but grab it and turn it - thats what you did when it started.
Thanks, but this decompressor lever just pops out of position when deactivated, so it makes no difference how quickly it's released. (It's been repaired in the past, which is why it seems back to front..)
If you need help with the engine, Internal Fire museum in Wales might be able ot hook you up with someone who has knowledge about Bamford engines. I used to own a smaller model when we lived in UK as well as other stationary engines. Nice to se one being put to use. BTW; Lister D engines are used on 7 1/4" locomotives.
The energy in the flywheel is what gets you over compression in the first couple turns. You do get enough to get over one compression at least, but you do need to keep cranking. It's a confidence and commit 100% to it thing. Well, at least in my experience with Lister and Ruston of the same size. Apart from the obvious hazard of flying off the handle, also please do change to not put your thumb around the handle. It might feel awkward but it is vital to save breaking your thumb. :-)
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU COMMENT! Yes, you're right, we should have kept cranking after the decompressor lever was moved. We weren't sure what we were doing but now it's clear. In our defense, it was really hard going! Also, the handle drops off very easily as soon as the flywheel spins faster than we can keep the pressure on, so it looks as if we weren't trying when we just couldn't keep up. It's worn on the edges and needs some repair. ALSO the decompressor lever has been repaired in the past. That's why it's works in a different direction to the manual. All it does is push the top of the valve in a little - it doesn't matter how quickly it is released. AND, as for the vibrations, I checked the rpm and it's not running too fast or too slowly. There's nothing missing. I just need to fix it down better - which I will! Thank you if you wanted to comment on these issues - I just don't want you to waste your time covering the same ground. Feel free to write something new though.
@@meex88hiphop Er ... actually quite the contrary. These engines are designed, and balanced, to be absolutely stationary. If "loose", the compression stroke "bucks" or "hops" the entire structure to move slightly, effectively ruining any designed rotational balancing.
@@sixmagpies ofcrs they were designed to be stationary but they wont "feel" better if they get bolted, on contrary, they will suffer greater material fatigue if you bolt them down. just because they are not moving when bolted, it doesnt mean the forces are not there in my opinion, if you have to bolt down a half ton engine to stop if from jumping, something is obviously off balance i would instead balance the flywheels and the counterweight rather than bolting it to the ground
@@meex88hiphop Never said anything about "feelings", sir .. but whatever you say. I'm just an old MS, retired in Ireland, who has been directly and solely responsible for signing off on the installation, commissioning and sea-trialling of some of the very largest diesel engines ever constructed by man. (MWM, B&V, Sulzer, Wartsilla, Hyundai.) Basics 1. Any rotational machinery suffering chaotic accelerations (movement) is quite impossible to balance. 2. One of the most important elements in the installation of large marine diesel machinery is the series of torsional vibration calculations that must be made before, during and after each event. We are not at home to "Wiggly bits" !
Here u go .you have to keep turning it . Like to have the crank handle to be on the crank so on the up stripe it is on compression. A few turns to build up speed then move decompress or to the run position . Get someone to do this for you .keep on cranking don't stop put some back into it . It's a bit of a knack .
@@WayOutWestx2 yes sorts the men out from the girls !!! It is something you get better at . I start a40 HP ronaldson and tippet . Others have tried I have given lessons . You will get better at it .
My 14 year old daughter can start my Lister CS3, the same type of setup as yours. What you are doing wrong is stop cranking when you release the decompression. The decompression is there to start being able to get momentum up, and when you have got enough, keep cranking as you release the decompression. Once you do a couple of full rotations with the decompression off, it should then fire. But please for the love of your hands, keep all 4 fingers and thumb on one side of the handle, otherwise, you will be able to share a great story of how you got no thumb.
We used to start cold reluctant diesel engines with a burning rag, soaked with petrol or paraffin, held near the air intake so it's pulling in hot , less dense, air. Not a move for the faint-hearted but very effective. The other thing we needed to be aware of doesn't apply to you Tim, make sure the boss wasn't around to see us doing it.
This is how I help my tractor to start. I just light a piece of newspaper and hold it under a hole in the intake manifold where there should be a heater fitted.
I good old building site trick. I used to do the same to start the old Perkins lump in my heap of a rangerover. Till I got a heater injector fitted. Really got some funny looks, especially in Tesco's car park! You need to remember to move the flames after a while, to allow the engine to get some oxygen. But it works a treat.
Be careful the burning rag don't get pulled in. An old mechanic told of adjusting the fuel timing depending on the fuel source. This was from pre WW2 and diesel was poorly refined and the Cetane rating maybe unregulated unlike today. If starting continues to be difficult, you might try ether through an orificed fitting, the miniscule amount wont hurt anything, or some old diesels used have a removable hollow bolt, the Bolt would be removed and a fuel pellet installed. These would help start the fire. Good Luck, your vid was most enjoyable, wish I was there. Peter
Look at the picture of the starting handle in the book, it is not in the same place that you have it. Maybe mount it to a concrete pad so that it will not move, with some rubber pads between it and the pad. Also it looks like you need some longer hoses for water tank and fuel tank.
Yes I think a concrete pad/platform is needed for running, but starting you need to keep cranking it after you flip the decompression lever, otherwise it’s not going to have the power to start. The other way to start it would be to use an electric or air compressor ratchet gun and once she fires just take the gun off the cranking shaft.
@@WayOutWestx2 Don't put rubber pads, bolt it down straight onto a concrete block, with a mounting grout to hold it. Rubber will bounce and snap your mounting bolts. I also thought rubber was a good idea under my lister, turns out not.
As others have said, essential to keep cranking as you throw the decomp lever, if you stop it'll likely just bounce off the compression. Also hold the handle with all fingers and thumb on the back just in case it kicks back. Run it on a pure 5L bottle of diesel Purge (from Liquimoly) as it'll really give the valves, pump, injector, manifolds and cylinder a good clean. If you're really struggling to get it going, you can pre-heat the air intake (hair-drier is good). You can also, if you really must, give it a very quick spray of Easy Start and that'll certainly fire it up but it's best not to use that, as any engine that needs Easy Start is in need of mechanical attention.
These engines are very easy to start . After you drop the compression lever keep cranking a couple more times on full compression it will fire. a lot of comments here are from people who don't anything. How do I know? I have several single cylinder diesel engines all start easily.
You have the same problem I do. Horses. I've been waiting ten years for a new shop while we built a couple of horse structures and cleared three pastures 😐 - we are allegedly going to start work on my shop this year 🤔
My soul cries out for a concrete pad- a half ton of casting and flywheels jumping around like that is incredible wear on the bearings and valves and everything will suffer but I’m pretty certain you have a long term plan for this to prevent it from hopping off into the sea 🌊 :-) Can’t wait to watch this story unfold.
I wonder if there is a balance issue that could be addressed with counterweights. As for the hard start, perhaps a lighter fuel (kerosene/paraffin) could be used for the initial startup? Might be too much of a hassle though. This new toy looks like so much fun.
These single cylinder engines were often on trolleys, they do rattle around a fair bit, but they're pretty low revs, somewhere between 700 and 1000 on my ev1 of a similar age.
Watching other videos of similar single cylinder engines with a basic trolley to sit on they do NOT seem to shake near as bad as this one. Something seems wrong for sure.
I always find combustion engines with goveners weird since I find them more natural on steam engines. Anyone know how the governors on this engines work?
We in india have same engine... We used a open sprit flame on intake side for cold starts.... It literally sucked falme inside and started in one attempt even in coldest of temperatures
A trick I have seen with old tractor diesels is to have a hot air gun and blow hot air into the cylinder to warm it up before starting. I don't know how that would work on a single cylinder like this or where one would blow the hot air in. But it does a great job of heating up things allowing for a much easier start.
We used to replace the water in the block with boiling water to start the tractor on frosty mornings, drain the block at night and repeat the next day.
I’m sure Henry could assist with starting 🙂 I’ve seen people use air motors and a solid rubber wheel on the flywheel. Might save you from doing yourself an injury!
Your enthusiasm for this old machine is infectious! I’m loving how happy you were in getting and running this old girl. I hope she gives you many years of service.
After a while you will probably find a way to start it reliably. For my 1950's tractor I use starting fluid, sprayed into the manifold as the original kygas starter has corroded away, but starter fluid polarises engine folk excessively, some believing it is a blessing from God, others a curse from the Devil. There were all manner of "crank avoidance" devices developed that included 12 gauge cartridge powered (no shot!), and various starters including ropes round the pulleys and similar heath robinson arrangements. All needing to be approached with extreme caution as crank injuries tend to be bad. I imagine a fast stop would be to decompress the engine, but sometimes my tractor will run when hot even if decompressed. Recently I had all my four injectors rebuilt and this has helped starting. It should be relatively easy and low cost to have a diesel injector shop check the spray pattern from your injector. Good Luck! Thanks for sharing!
Use an inexpensive heat gun to warm the air intake for a few minutes before starting, continue to apply warm air into the intake hole area when starting. Should start right up. PS: Not to much heat, some heat guns can produce 800 degree F air.
I agree. You can see, after releasing the compression, that it gets to a point where it "bounces" in the reverse direction. That is, I believe, where you are getting enough compression to ignite the fuel. That's why it smokes.
Thanks, but this decompressor lever just pops out of position when deactivated, so it makes no difference how quickly it's released. (It's been repaired in the past, which is why it seems back to front..)
Thanks , OL. The only thing that I see so far that needs replacing is the plate with the decompressor lever in it. It's functioning but it's been repaired very crudely in the past - which is why it operates in the opposite way to the manual. But only if you were breaking up an engine? It would be good to know that some spares are out there if needed. I haven't found any new piston rings available anywhere, for instance. Are they still some out there somewhere? blowinblog @ gmail.com is our email address if you would drop us a line - I'll keep your email address in case something becomes needed.. Tim
There are special sprays to start a cold engine. And when I learned to deal with very old diesel engines in the army I think there was the advice to mix some gasoline to diesel for a better start. But this was 20 years ago - maybe I remember wrong.
G'day, Yay Team ! I propose that you name that Engine, "Hoppity...(!)" Because it jumps around the place, so very much... Maybe try squirting a bit of Ether/Kerosene in the Inlet Manifold..., or perhaps it wants the Cylinder pre-warmed with a Blowlamp - judiciously applied somewhere before trying to start it...? You may need a seriously chunky slab of Concrete to bolt that thing onto, to tame the awesome Vibration... Have a good one... Stay safe. ;-p Ciao !
Interesting footnote to Bamford's of Uttoxeter is that when one of the family came up with the idea of using a hydraulic bucket loading attachment on a tractor the rest of the family said it would never sell. Undeterred by this the family member decided to setup on his own. When it came to naming the company obviously he couldn't use Bamford so he used his initials instead. His name was Joseph Cyril Bamford and hence JCB was born. JCB did try to take over Bamford's in the late 60's however this was rejected by the board and they went into liquidation in the early 70's while JCB went from strength to strength and now has several massive plants still in the Uttoxeter area.
Congratulations, governor! The only part I understood was the beautiful blue tarp it came with, but it's a fantastic machine and I'm glad you're taming it.
Don't use ether in these old diesels as you can end up with big problems and allot of broken parts. To make starting easier you could use a smaller gas engine with a rubber wheel mounted on it's crankshaft. Set this gas engine on a hinge system so that when it is tipped up the rubber wheel comes in contact with one of the large flywheels of the diesel. The can have a long arm to tip the gas engine.
The one lunger that put a scar in the middle of forehead was a Lister of some description and the instructions I was given was to keep turning the handle till it fired but be careful of the kickback, which thought I understood. Anybody who has had their forehead ventilated knows it bleeds like a stuck pig, added that we were flooded in, so couldn't get to a doctor and it wept all weekend till we got back to Sydney where I immediately went to hospital to have it seen too. The larger anesthetic which was liberally consumed had an adverse effect on the real stuff and sent me off on cloud cuckoo which meant an overnight stay for observation. Moral of the story as in life "keep grinding but watch for the kickback".
We had Lister diesel pumps at my first job. Starting meant opening the decompressor and hand cranking as fast as possible then let go and drop the valve lifter. The flywheel takes it over compression and off it goes. We used easy start in cold weather. Starting the squirt before dropping the valve lifter. It worked 9/10 of the time.
Give her just the slightest whiff of 'Cosby-in-a-Can' into the intake just as you throw the decompression lever off... That stuff knocks people out, but it SURE wakes engines up.
I have ran these antique engines my whole life with my father. I agree with the poster that mentioned to not throw the compression relief handle any further than the pure 6 o’clock position. Also I understand that you are not anchored to a slab. At running speed your engine should bounce much less. It’s understandable for these things to go everywhere while they get to speed but they should smooth to a smaller vibration at proper running speed and yours doesn’t. I would check main bearings for wear, check crankshaft for true, and check flywheels for balance. If you want longevity out of this engine it needs to run smoother than what I’m seeing. Just my 2 cents, I’ll be eagerly awaiting the follow-up video…
Ahh, those days in my childhood. Every autumn in harvesting time, stationary motor and harvesting machine was pulled to our little farm. They were owned together by 3 farms. Starting the motor was celebration to little kid. Smell of petrol, cooling water running, smoke and sounds. Unforgettable. The results was kept in storage, and by winter milled. There was rat and mice poop within, but who cared? Maybe because off it, in age 63 I am still standing hard.
You'll have to make a 3x3 meter steel reinforced concrete Slab to bolt it down To. Then get a small 5 horse power gasoline Engine with a pulley And belt to turn the antique diesel over With a hand operated Belt tensioner. It is impractical To hand crank a big ohl Diesel like that will ware you out. oh The small 5hp motor Can have an electric Starter to operated by Battery or by local A/C power.
Have an almost identical 9hp (ish) ancient Lister version at my place in Kenya, belt driving an AC generator. Bolted to 10" concrete slab foundation in small shed. Muffler is a large Oxy bottle connected to engine with 3' of flexible exhaust pipe. Essential is a fuel supply with a good head of gravity and leak free feed line, which guarantees no air whatsoever in the injection pump, even if standing for weeks. ( Fuel can seep out, but air can't seep in, which it guaranteed will do if no gravity pressure.) These engines ran on high sulphur diesel, so, when running on today's low sulphur, adding a little 2 stroke oil ( 150/1?) in the mix to replace the missing lubrication properties is a kindness. Add a can of "inhibitor" ( proper antifreeze in Ireland! ) in the coolant to protect from rusting and fatal frost damage. Try not to use ether. A squirt of oil in the intake to improve initial starting compression is kinder. Mine starts first time, every time, even after standing for months, and after only three or four turns on the handle ... at which point I'd go back in the house to have my dear Mother tell me "Oh sorry darling, no need for the generator .. the lights just came back on again."
@@WayOutWestx2 For such a little engine, it's probably being a bit anal. We do (did!) that with very large medium and slow speed marine diesels to protect the injection systems which run into the many hundreds of thousands. If sharpening up your fuel with kero, then it's a really good idea as it has even less lubricating properties than normal HS diesel.
You book should have cold weather start instruction on how to heat combustion chamber diesel has a much higher combustion temperature than gasoline. That’s the reason why most modern diesel have a glow plug that gets the chamber to that temperature there should be something in your manual for cold weather starts and if you follow those instructions and regular weather it will make it start faster also. As suggested in the comments burning rags or using a Electric or propane charcoal starter or a little propane torch to get the Chambers give it up to temperature 52 ° to 92° Celsius, I did make lamps for this purpose in the day and they generally take about 10 minutes to get to temperature. Double check your weights of all this usually doesn’t use modern style lol it could be anywhere from a 30 to 90 weight oil. Too thick of oil could be slowing down your ability to crank it. And most times there was a different role for grazing the barons are desperate or for the crankshaft and then there may be some grease fittings also each one of these will be a different weight. Synthetics will probably add to the life of it but you’ll probably need to go 10 to 30 weight above from what suggested to get the same requirements. How’s that for a dual oil that is half regular and half synthetic is 5 to 15 weight about suggested Weight.
Maybe the first contraption could be a bicycle powered starter - there's one lying on the ground beside the engine... Might be able to work off friction on the flywheel(s).
I ran a Lister clone for power for five years. I don't hear the 'squeak' of the injector pump on your engine. Mine would take one rev to squeak, then flip the valve lifter and in never failed to start, no matter the weather. Check the timing of the injector. 22deg BTDC is about right.
Crank it AFTER you put the lever into start position. The instructions said 2-3 cranks, then Start, THEN 2-3 more cranks after. The only time it started was when the momentum from the «pre-start» was so high that it managed 2 rotations without cranking. Long story short? Crank it after you set it in start position.
At least in Denmark we have two kinds of diesel (and petrol!). Little grey Fergies and 35's and inboard engines won't run on the stuff from petrol stations, so we need to go to a port facility to get it. They've started to put too much water in it, which doesn't worry modern computer-controlled engines. It's a problem in outboard engines, too. Need to bleed the carb much more often.
I have a 1963 Lister LD1 and also have to hand crank start. Not sure how heavy yours is but the trick that does it for me is to keep cranking when you flip the compression lever and pull it trough 1 or 2 compression strokes. Just before you flip it brace yourself and put just a bit of extra power into it. Also just get it spinning very fast beforehand so the fly wheel punches it trough the compression. Basicly, faster and stronger is what the video tells me.
@@WayOutWestx2 Mine has a prime cup. A hole that allows to squirts some oil into the cilinder, this really helps. But yes, initially it's hard going just really make the flywheel spin hard so it punches trough.
With the decompression lever on get the diesel turning using the gas engine. Turning the diesel over like this builds up heat in the cylinder of the diesel which helps with starting. After 20 or 30 seconds release the decompression lever but keep the gas engine engaged. When the diesel starts disengage the gas engine and you are away. This arrangement really save you arms and the potential of injury. Sorry this was in two messages as my fat fingers got in the way. Good luck with your project.
Stop being afraid of it and operate the controls smoothly. You need to adjust the governed speed down. It is too high. You are supposed to continue cranking a rev or two after the compression release is disengaged. When you become master and not the engine, you will be able to use it at will. (Practice, practice, practice.)
We had one that literally ran on an oily rag. With no other fuel source, a oily rag held over the air intake would be enough to get it going, crank engine with lever set on low compression, after 3 or 4 spins flick the compression lever but you must keep cranking. Engine will start running with just the fumes from the rag.
Man for a second it seemed like it was gonna run away. Yeah when a diesel sits for a bit it can take some time tog eat it goin again. I have 2 little Yanmar L70s I put on old tractors, & both of em started right up for the most part, but it did take some time for em to wear in, & find their happy place again. One of my engines I think needs some valve work done.
We had one of those on a dewatering pump for years, i could start that motor belt driving the pump as well when i was 12-13 year's old , do what you read in the instruction manual, grow some balls and keep cranking it after the decompression leaver is dropped they don't kick back and will start every time if bleed up properly, they need to be bolted to a decent slab.
Read most of the comments, all good especially about the risk to your thumb. When first turning the engine listen for the creak or groan from the injector opening, heard it first time when it blew smoke. When you blead the fuel pump you then need to open the injector pipe at the injector and crank it till the fuel comes out. It's easier to clear the air this way. Note you did nor PRIME the engine as per manual. Do this before each start and it will be easier to start.
Really this is a good engine and you were doing nothing wrong apart from not handling the decompressor in a positive manner. The decompressor lifts one of the valves and so the compression will not take place and you have to release it in a positive manner and place it directly to 6 o'clock, and not spin it around with an impulse, that action should be done fast and positive while the starter action should be kept for one or two extra turns after the decompressor is released. The bleeding of the fuel should go as far as the injector and I would have taken the injector off and see how it sprays in the air, as my experience is that the injector may be clogged in one spray port, but I did manage to open them up with the right tool. Note that all single-cylinder engines do rock, note rock, more than they vibrate vertically or horizontally. The explosion will react on the cylinder head and the piston instantaneously at the same time and so that action is basically equalized due to inertia of the system but the longer duration of the torque effect on the flywheel will cause the crankcase of the engine to rock the other way. In my single-cylinder engines, I always widen the mounting base, and really it is not a heavy concrete base that will soften that action, but a wider base at the end of which there are masses to absorb the long duration torque, rocking action. Adding some resilient mounts would help. Note that at the starting action, the cylinder walls are cold and they will absorb the heat of the compression and that of the fuel exploding when it happens, so there could be little power left to rotate the engine hence, the smoke coming out of the exhaust. Do give some extra throttle to counteract this as "the choke in a petrol engine" I assure you that is a very good engine, just examine the injector and ensure a spraying action rather than a dribble. Once I had an old engine that would not start as someone had changed the injector to a shorter one and it was dribbling rather than spraying. That engine has many years left in her. Congratulations on your historic acquisition of British engineering history. I have a two-cylinder petter marine air-cooled engine and a one-cylinder Petter on a concrete mixture, and they are beautiful in the manner they start and run.
I didn’t see this posted so I will. All Diesel engines can scavenge the lubricating oil vapor as fuel in perfect conditions, causing a runaway condition. It is much more likely to happen on turbocharged diesels, and even then it is fairly rare. I doubt you will ever have to worry about this, but in case you do, the best way to stop the engine will be to fully restrict the air intake and starve it that way.
There appear to be two sides to the air intake on this engine so closing off the air inlet, the traditional way to stop a runaway diesel may not work with this engine. I assume that the decompression lever raises one of the valves off it's seat. I would make sure that it is easy to get the decompression lever to stay in the "valve open" position. A runaway diesel is no fun.
Even though we are in the United States Diesels still work the same. You have to continually crank as fast as you can and don’t stop while someone else turns the decompression handle. If you quit cranking and try to turn the decompression handle the engine will never start. I don’t know why this is but it does the same thing over here. You’ll notice when it did start you were cranking as fast as you could and someone else took the handle and turned it down.
Just move the decompression lever 90 degrees don’t flick it like you did at the start and you need to have an engine we’re you don’t have to bend over to crank it put it up higher or dig a hole so you are at a height you can crank it with out bending to much
If it is anything like the lister diesels then when cold we rotated them backwards up to the compression stroke then bounced them against the compression until they started to squeak, about 10 or 12 times, then start the starting procedure but of course regular use is the other answer
Looks fantastic Tim, can't wait to see what contraptions you build and hook up to it. Sorry I can't help with easier starting of these things, I have zero experience there. Craig
Tim, it's great to see you have an old diesel engine there and I can't wait to see what you attach to it in time. With too much technology these days it's nice to see these old things coming to life and being used as they were originally designed for.
I think she was not meant to bounce but be tied down on a foundation. something like cement or any thing hevier that it ways so it will run smoother and safer. Also she was meant for one job to run the belt that is connected to another stationary pull system that an the rest of the shops saws and such even to wind the wench to pull cart out of minds.
Use a small gasoline motor with a belt to the flywheel rather than using your hand, add a idler wheel to tighten the belt, that way once the diesel has started you can loosen the belt and shut the gasoline engine off. Sort of a poor mans pony motor like the big Cat bulldozers used to have
you need to keep cranking as you drop the decompressor you just push hard as you come to comp work out where cop is and it comes every second turn i come to bundoran regular wonderfull place.
Originally Lister recommended a 1 ton block of concrete as the base...and isolated from the rest of the shed floor....otherwise it turned the shed into an acoustic box...like a guitar. And the exhaust....run it through a 55 gallon drum buried and full of large rocks...
