I was excited when it fired up! 😂 thank you for the "on point" video. Very little fluff and bullcrap. Too many people show removing the bolts, and tightening the bolts... ugh. And thank you for letting the car run for a bit and not talking through the whole thing. This was the best video I have seen for efi install. I just might be sold on the Fitech. Great video!! 👍
Awesome video. If you guys are wanting to put this on a chevy/GMC pickup or K5 Blazer and have manifolds but don't want to spend money on headers and then have to drill the hole and put the O2 sensor on or drilling a hole into your manifold, you can get the driver's side manifold off of a 1987-1991 chevy and it has an O2 sensor already built in.
Good video. Lots of great points made about installing system and other comments below. I have a '81 Vette that I want to upgrade and add an EFI system. This looks like a good place to start. Eventually wanting to go with LSX engine upgrade.
Nice Job; Did my 76 with FAST EFI gen 1. Makes it much more driveable. Only major issue is I can't close the OEM hood with a stock air snorkel. Bought an aftermarket L88 hood.
They are easy to install. Just make sure you have no vacuum leaks and good voltage running to the system. They are a little more sensitive to those things than a Carb.
Thank you for the video. Having trouble with mine so this gives me hope. My biggest concern was finding the switched power supply for my white wire. I did the same as you and attached to the positive on my HEI distributor. Since it's not running right now I thought maybe this was wrong but I see yours started right up. Thinking mine is a fuel pump problem, I did the frame mount. I turn the switch, I hear the pump start, when I check the pressure it comes up then goes back down. Thanks for taking the time to help other non mechanics out. Thanks Tim
You're Welcome! The white wire running to the HEI distributor seems to be working fine. I did move the constant positive (red wire) from the alternator to the positive post on the battery. Sometimes when I would crank the car the screen on the hand held turned white and I would have to hold the button down to power it back on. I think this was caused by power fluctuations during cranking. Haven't had it happen since I moved the wire to the battery. As far as the issues you are having with fuel pressure, I would check the Pump pwm on the "GO-EFI Initial Setup" screen. I have the Command Center so this value is set at 40 per instructions but it needs to be higher if you use an in-tank, or frame mount pump. Not sure what the value needs to be for your pump and you might have already checked this but that's where I would start. Hope this helps!
Tim Thanks for more info. I have my red at the battery, I also have the screen turning white when I crank and all my settings are lost. I did a test today connecting 12v right to the fuel pump and it held at 58 lbs. I think the problem is the computer telling the pump to shut down for some reason. When I do the Engine set up the Pump PWM is set at around 74. The problem is no fuel pressure. Pump starts when I turn the key but then the pressure goes down to nothing. When I turn the key to crank the fuel is not there. I sent an Email to Fitech this morning and waiting to hear back. Let you know what I find out. Getting warn here need it on the road. Nice Vette by the way. Thanks Tim
From my personal experience and what I have read, white screen is caused by power loss to the system during cranking. Could be either the white wire or the red. Mine seemed to do it worse when it was cold and my battery is pretty weak. I THINK you can turn your key on, enter your settings, push the joystick to "send to the ECU" for each line, then turn your switch back off and after 15 seconds it will save the settings. Good luck with the fuel pump issue. Hope Fitech reply's quick so you guys can get it on the road. If i talk with anyone else who has had the same issue, i'll let you know. Thanks for the compliment on the Vette, the color black is definitely a dust and dirt magnet!!.
Thanks for the compliment! The system is working great so far, I don't think you would be disappointed. I like reaching in the window and turning the key; she fires right up and idles regardless of temperature!!
Hi Tim, great video and install. I have a 73 vette without air and I installed my FCC on the passenger side behind the wheel well. All worked well until it got warm outside then my nightmare started. The engine stalled on my wife and I during a drive thru the country and I noticed zero fuel pressure on the gas inlet of the FCC. After trailering, replacing the mechanical fuel pump and a lot of other things, come to find out the fuel in the FCC was boiling due to exhaust and motor heat. The new pump did just what the original did. After lots of investigation, I came to realize gas boils at 150 deg and using a infra red gun like yours, found the FCC canister was 220 deg. This caused the fuel to boil, float to drop and gas/vapors to pass back into the tank causing an awful raw gas smell and zero inlet pressure. I'm still trying to figure out what to do including installing a radiant heat shield and insulation. I'm afraid though that on a hot 90 degree day, nothing will keep the heat below 150 deg. Have you had problems?
No problems so far. That was the main reason I installed my FCC canister where I did, seemed to be the coolest area in the engine bay. I have checked the temperature and it gets around 125-130 degrees. No issues with gas boiling out the vent either. My biggest concern is the fuel filter I installed where the AC compressor was but so far it hasn't caused any issues either. I'm kinda hesitant about putting the electric fans on because the pulley fan keeps air moving over the filter. I'm sure you checked this but make sure the pump pwm value is set at 40 on the engine set up screen. I'm not sure why Fitech didn't set this value at 40 initially since that's what the FCC requires to prevent overheating during low fuel demand times.
Did you guys fix ur vapor lock problems yet? Im researching this because I want to run the FCC but live in AZ. I know that Fitech has instructions now on their website of how to adjust the pulse width of the fuel pump in the FCC to cool it. Have u guys tried this yet?
Hey this is Juan Can you give me your number I can call you I wanna know if I can put it in their system and a 1998 SS 454 truck because I put it cam and no white right This is my email Juan deharo1968@iCloud.com
Congratulations...tough job..in my case I bought a 73 with 20K miles.undisturbed.was thinking about resto moding but no, will rebuild the quadrajet, refurbish the AIR system including that canister and maybe go brakerless points..should idle almost as good...only other thing will be to replace that rear leaf spring and maybe that noisy speedo cable..that's it , no paint job keep all original..that's my project..keep it all original..
Nice video. On any vette, I know the gas tank is a pain, but I think it would be easier/better/cheaper to just do a return line setup. And I think I would have left the air cleaner off to check for fuel leaks. Remember, vettes like to burn to the ground from the outside in..... ;p
The return line setup is definitely a good option. I thought I would give the Command Center a try and see how it works. So far so good but the return line idea is still running around in my head for some reason!! Probably end up doing that sometime in the future. I did have 2 fire extinguishers close buy when I cranked it up!! Just glad the video didn't end like that :)
Tim, I know this is an older video, but a quick question. did you put an external return spring, or did you only use the built in spring that is on the Fitech?
Tim, I think I have it. Charged the battery, hooked everything back up and it started. Little rough at first but smoothed out. How is the exhaust smell on your car? Any cats? Mine smelled bad with that carb and still bad now. The afr seems to be close to the target afr. Wondering if I can tune it to get rid of the rich smell. Tim, Thanks for all your advise. Your replies kept me positive to figure this out. Tim
Glad to hear it's working!!! No cats on mine and the exhaust smell is better than the carb. Mine had the rich smell at first but is better now. IMO the only initial tuning I would do is make sure your IAC Steps are between 3 and 10 at warm idle. The system will learn the more you drive the car. If not there are a lot of values you can adjust to fine tune the system to your motor. Hopefully it will adjust on it's own but if it doesn't, it's not to hard to adjust and you can set all the values back to factory settings if you forget what they were! I took mine for short drives at first and did some normal driving and some "not normal" to get the system used to the motor! Again, glad to hear you got it going!!!!
Thanks for uploading the video. May I ask how long did this take to install? Also I’m going to do this on my 82 corvette. Do you know how much should I pay for installation on this system? Also with this system are startups much better than the old carburetor ? Does this make it a better daily driver?
Ha Tim I wish I saw this yesterday I spent 3 hours trying to find a spot for the command center and ended up mounting it right there.lol Now did you just connect the vent to the vent line back to the tank? And did you have a vented pressure gas cap?
I hated my FiTech, could never tune it right. I removed it, sold it...and got myself a Holley Sniper...best decision I’ve ever made.
5 лет назад
How long ago did you have the FiTech? What model? I've had great luck with mine the go efi 8 1250hp unit with pro software. Supercharged over 600hp manual transmission, I had some hiccups with the tuning but sorted them out with the help of a few RU-vid videos.
Interesting comment. I am about to get EFI for my Corvette 1978 and am between the Fintech or the Holley Sniper. There's also the FAST and ATOMIC.... I'm no mechanic, so I want one that a "non-mechanic" DYI guy can set up easily and not have to run into "adjustment" issues... Plug & play ... Any suggestions? Thanks!
Guys I need some opinion I have my stuff from my TPI system off of an old IROC if I put it on with updated injectors and fuel pump will I get good results
Command center only needs a vent line not an actual return line. I hooked it to the metal vent line that went to the charcoal canister which comes from the tank. I had to use a vented gas cap ( I think it's a Stant brand )which you can pick up at any parts store.
Hi Tim, how hard was it to hook up to you ignition? Also, over all how hard was it to truly install? can a novice do it? I have a 70' impala with a Jegs motor in it, and my carb is a nightmare, that's why I am looking at Fitech with Command center. Thanks,
VERY easy to install! You need a tachometer connection which I hooked at my distributor, a switched power source, and a constant power wire coming from the battery. If you got plenty of room under the hood, you can put the command center anywhere as long as it's not close to the exhaust. Drilling the hole for the O2 sensor in the exhaust is easy, I did mine with a battery powered drill and a step drill bit to 7/8". Just be sure you have the motor grounded to the frame and no vacuum leaks and it should preform perfect. The directions have some really good wiring diagrams for different ignition set ups. You can look at them on Fitechs website as well as dimensions of the unit and Command Center. Also, you must have a vent line for the Command Center back to the gas tank. If you have had a charcoal canister on the car it should have one you can use. I'm confident if you have the ability to change oil and spark plugs, you can install this system. If you decide to go for it, I will be glad to help answer any questions you have.
Tim, I wonder if thats my problem. My settings not getting to the ecu, maybe when I program my settings then turn the key it shuts down not letting the settings save. I will give it a shot after work. Thanks again for your advise. Tim
It's possible but I would think the factory settings would be saved in the system. When you lose settings does it return to those factory numbers or shows nothing? Also check to make sure your motor is grounded to the frame and make sure you are getting an RPM signal to the blue wire. According to Fitech, If signal is lost the ecu shuts power to the fuel pump. Also, what type of fuel pump are you using?
Tim, Tied the blue wire directly to the tach wire on the tach terminal on the distributor. When the screen dies and turns white, I disconnect and then reconnect and it does go back to those factory settings, Does not come back on until I do this. I will check my ground and maybe run a separate ground anyway. I ordered the fitech frame mount pump kit so its a fitech pump. All new supply and return lines. Ok Thanks a couple more things to check. Thanks again Tim I owe you a beer! Tim
Tim, Got the mustang on the road today, had some hesitation at times, one pop and stall, seems to idle pretty well. Still smells rich. I had a problem after I parked it after driving. When I returned home I let it sit and Idle for about 20 minutes, at some point the inline fitech fuel pump started reading 0 pressure then back up, it did this for a couple minutes till it shut down. I saw that you had to install a vented fuel cap. when I went to check mine it was heavily pressurized. Did you have these type of symptoms and did the cap fix what your problems were? Thanks Tim
Might want to check with Fitech on that one. The Command Center requires a vented cap so the vent line works properly. My tank was pressurized some but not heavily before I installed the vented cap. You might be able to loosen the gas cap and let it idle to see if that helps. I'm not familiar with the installation procedures for the inline fuel pump. Sorry I can't be any more help
Tim I am considering buying one of these systems for my truck. Do you have time to answer some questions. I used to be an Auto tech currently doing marine repair thanks
They also have a Tech Center link on their website where you can ask a question. Didn't know if that was how you were emailing your question but seems like they have answered a lot on there! You can also check the fault codes on the main menu to see if it's detecting an issue.
Tim, Heard from Fitech yesterday. Told me fuel pump sounds to be working correctly. Pump turns on, but waits for an RPM signal before starting again. Told me to run a ground from the TB to battery which I did today. The white wire... I disconnected from the battery wire that went to the HEI distributor and temporarily hooked to the battery directly for 12v. From that point went through process of programming hand held and starting car. Turn key screen went white again and no start. My car has been sitting over the winter while I've been working on it. I checked the voltage on battery and it read 12.1v, wondering if while cranking the voltage drops below 12v which may cause the screen to go white. Charging it right now to see if that may help. The weird thing is that in the beginning it did run for a while then stopped making me think that for at least a short time the white wire worked, the blue tach wire worked, fuel pump wire worked, and the constant red battery wire worked. I don't know. Try Charging the battery see what happens. Tim
The white screen is a sign of power loss during cranking. Might want to check the cranking amps of the battery, that can definitely affect how much power is available. I would also make sure things like heater, radio, etc. was turned off to eliminate power usage during cranking. It does seem weird that it ran for a short while at the beginning. Hope the battery issue solves the problem!!
