Fitting Sleeves The Armhole

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Fitting sleeves can sometimes be even more challenging than fitting pants.
Most of us have experienced strange draglines, odd twisting and general discomfort on the sleeves of at least one of our sewing projects. Finding the cause and the solution can be frustrating so today I’d like to begin a video series all about sleeves.
I’m starting this series with one of the most important elements of a good fitting sleeve: the bodice armhole. I’m starting here because it is impossible to achieve a good fitting sleeve if the armhole it is sitting on doesn’t fit. The armhole must be the correct size and shape for your body before you can even begin assessing the sleeve. Watch the video to dive a bit deeper into what a good fitting armhole looks like and how to assess if it’s a good base for your sleeve.
After you watch the video, I'd love to know if you had any insights or ah ha moments; I hope you'll share them in the comments!
Get the resources mentioned in this video here: www.inhousepatternsstudio.com...

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Опубликовано:

29 дек 2018

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Комментарии : 59

@ao5650 4 года назад

This is the best sleeve tutorial ever. I have looked for these explanations for years. Thank you so much Alexandra

@annethevenot461 Год назад

Such an excellent description of the necessary bodice armhole fit BEFORE you even get to the sleeve attachment! Many thanks.

@sreneefe 4 года назад

This is an excellent sleeve tutorial. I have paid for several, but this one is more succinct but at the same time offers really helpful details.

@mcjohnsonsgirl 4 года назад

I love your comprehensive, no fluff videos.

@NadoCrowFriend 2 месяца назад

Thank you, Alexandra, for this very helpful info ( Sleeves really can be so challenging! )

@thegreenpincushion510 5 лет назад

I am so delighted that I discovered your channel. This is the first time I have understood what’s important, and why in fitting sleeves. Your explanations and teaching style are both amazingly accessible, while also providing sufficient information and context. Many, many thanks for sharing your expertise. If you do not already do so, I hope you will consider selling instructional sewing dvds.

@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns 5 лет назад

The Greenpincushion thank you so much! I have a couple of online courses already and a new one will be available later this year! You can view them at inhousepatternsstudio.com

@ahliahomes9002 4 года назад

Crystal clear explanation covering all necessary aspect. It really helps me in getting a comfortable and fit in sleeve. Thank you for sharing. Keep up the excellent work and kind contribution. ❤👍🙏

@gillianbc 4 года назад

Love the idea of the two L-shaped rulers. I will make something similar from card.

@evelynkeane1055 4 года назад

This tutorial was explained very well and most helpful thank you so much.

@genahowe4206 5 лет назад

Aha. I recently found instructions on making a bodice block, just before I found your videos and website. I made the block, but the armhole just looked "off" compared to all the images I found online. After looking at it for awhile, it finally started to occur to me that it was my measurements and how they differ from the size charts. I'm small and narrow on top but really widen out on the way down :(, and I also realized that people's armhole shapes would vary as well as other aspects of the body. This video really helped me clarify my thinking (I hope), so now I'm not afraid to even make that first muslin to check it out. I've been binge watching your videos (on your website and on RU-vid) and am learning so much. Thank you.

@jibiben8022 3 года назад

Such a wonderful explanation, thank you so much Maam.

@barbz38 5 лет назад

Many thanks Alexandra. your videos are very informative

@Mysicalgreenunicorn03 5 лет назад

Your videos are such a resource!

@LeticiaRSC Год назад

What a great video! So helpful! Thank you!

@christry1 3 года назад

This is a great video. Now to put this into practice!

@patriciaingraldi4719 2 года назад

Excellent information, thank you

@wondergirlray Год назад

Fantastic content, as always!

@paulaperedocordeiro2545 2 года назад

Thank you so much for your helpful video!

@karenbertram6433 5 лет назад

So helpful, thanks so much!

@nomulavenugopal3501 3 года назад

Madum ur kind of explaination is so good i really go it, the fault can detect thank u madum

@mdjavedansari6390 4 года назад

You teaching very deeply

@judiavi 2 года назад

Excellent explanation. Thank you so much :-)

@elizabethhamer2425 2 года назад

Very helpful

@FranciscaPires Год назад

thank you for explaining armholes both in paper and on the mannequin this was extremely helpful!!

@shawneleach9139 Год назад

Love the T-square(s) tool!!

@justme-fe2sf 3 года назад

Fantastic videos

@09jariah 5 лет назад

Excellent ❤️

@bethwhislersews 2 года назад

I have to add a sleeve to a formal sleeveless vneck dress. This helped me process some of my difficulties. Not certain how I’m going to fit the sleeve to her arm. AND I only have so much material to work with. That she bought from the shop. Working with a plus size arm

@colettebaldwin5700 4 года назад

Great tutorial! Really informative, and straight to the point. Thank you,

@thefashioninstituteofsouth3379 5 лет назад

I love it

@Luxxen101 5 лет назад

Absolutely the best explanation of armholes. I finally get it! Thank you!

@serifatutorials5970 5 месяцев назад

This was so helpful 😊. How can i measure my armhole depth correctly on my body?

@elisabethgottl8295 3 года назад

Just came across this video. Great information. My question is regarding a coat such as a trench coat. What measurement would be good to start with?

@silversagapatterns 5 лет назад

I would love a tutorial on how to draft a sleeve for a sleeveless bodice pattern. I have struggled with this a lot, probably because the angle of the armhole changes and my regular sleeves wont fit? Thank you for one of the best You Tube channels!

@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns 5 лет назад

Jessica Silversaga I have an online course on drafting that you may be interested in! You’ll find all the details at inhousepatternsstudio.com

@sewtania4074 5 лет назад

The rules of thumb you provide on how an armhole should typically fit were very helpful to me. I always find armholes to be huge but way to short whether in RTW or sewing patterns. The armholes are generally 4 or more cm below my armpit and I have wings at the front and back. I also find sewing patterns often have 5 or more cm of ease in the sleeve cap. I have very long thin arms. I also have a really high bust so often slash right through the armscye of the front and back to pattern pieces to correct the armhole & bodice. Then I have to adjust the neckline, collar & sleeves. Princess seems and 2 part sleeves are a headache. What I am not sure about is how to adjust the witch of the sleeve eg across the cap similar to the slash through the bodice or vertically down the sleeve . Do you have any tips? I really appreciate the work you put into your videos. Thank you.

@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns 5 лет назад

Hi! Thanks so much for your comments! If you reduce the length of the bodice by slashing through the armhole of the front and back and overlapping. This will shorten the armhole height (shoulder point to armhole base) so you are correct in assuming you will reduce the cap height by the same amount. This should bring your sleeve and bodice back into relation with each other. Just keep in mind that this kind of adjustment will also raise the bust, waist and hemline so you may need to do additional adjustments to bring those in alignment with your body. While it seems line this will work for your bust position, just check that your waist and hem will still be at the appropriate level.

@judymagruder2268 4 года назад

Do you have a book on this subject? I'd love to have one if you do.

@minervitanow 4 года назад

Great tutorial! I would like to know what actually I need to do to have some [gap] ease around the armhole where measurements for the crossfront and crossback are. Than you!

@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns 4 года назад

You can create gape in the armhole by transferring some of the bust dart (at the front) and the shoulder dart (at the back) to the armhole.

@gemamendez1067 Год назад

Buenas noches No hablo ingles pero le entiendo La talla 4 y 6 se relaciona von la talla petite Mil gracias por sus conocimientos

@seestellysew8472 5 лет назад

This whole video was a “ah ha” moment for me. I have a small frame, but large arms, so I always have trouble when it comes to sleeves. I also wondered why the sleeves opening wasn’t the same in the front and the back. Now I know. Thank you very much. You’re an excellent teacher, you’re very thorough, I really appreciate that. Where are you located? Do you teach in person classes? I’m a full figured women who’s hard to fit, but I love sewing and making my own clothes. But I’d like to take my sewing to the next level, focusing on better fitting garments and I believe you could help me learn the skills I need.

@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns 5 лет назад

HI Estelle, You're welcome! I'm in Canada. I have both in-person and online classes and you can learn more about those here: www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/

@eleanorehamer7400 5 месяцев назад

Hi, I wish to get a block done by you. Is it possible?

@bevmcmullen8758 4 года назад

Sorry Alexandra, maybe I missed something. The 1/2 inch ease at the armhole you mentioned...would that be 1/2 inch in the front and 1/2 inch at the back, or 1/2 an inch spread between the whole sleeve circumference? Excellent video as always and I’m just loving the course I bought from you recently (Drafting a knit bodice sloper). Truly excellent value for money. Thank you xx

@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns 4 года назад

You need about 1/4" gape at the front and back armhole-making up a 1/2" total but this depends on your comfort level.

@kalpanatapkire4934 3 года назад

Please help me to calculate the armhole length in the bodice with different bust sizes.

@barbaragibbs618 4 года назад

Hi, Alexandra -- I'm trying to develop a bodice sloper for myself and am at the armhole/sleeve stage. This tutorial is very helpful, especially the quick estimate of what the circumference of an armhole should be. I'm curious, though, about the U-shaped gadget you've made to measure the width (?) of the armhole. When is the best time to use it, before or after the muslin is made? If before, how does one use the information it yields? Thanks very much!

@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns 4 года назад

Barbara Gibbs use it as a guide and keep in mind that there is usually ease in the body girth which will make the measurement you take using this method larger in the garment than on your body. It tells you the minimum clearance you need for your arm.

@auntmayme8119 3 года назад

Are there any special techniques for someone with a forward sloping shoulder and has scoliosis on one side? I’ve noticed my armhole in the back needs to be flatter than circular, and yet it has to cover the shoulder blade where the scoliosis occurs.

@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns 3 года назад

Beth, no special techniques really. When you have asymmetries in the body, you are left to make asymmetrical adjustments. Try not to over-fit with these asymmetries, sometimes it calls attention to it rather than disguising it.