As a non Carpenter/Joiner (a Brickie)....I found this fascinating, some really clever hints and tips. Love the idea of the "noggin stick", although as you are no doubt already aware we call them "dwangs" up here in Scotland......and no, I have no idea where the name came from either! 😂😂
Hi Jim🤬Appreciate you watching bud, and thanks for your great comment 😎 I'm REALLY intrigued as to why you call them 'dwangs', mind you, I'm not sure why, down here, we call them 'noggins' 🤯Have a nice weekend bud😎Cheers Del
Just found your channel, have watched a few videos Great tips and advice, quality workmanship and attention to detail. Experience is the key , and always willing to learn more When I stud walls I usually use 2 base plates to help with nailing skirting boards I know that most construction firms don't want to do this as adds extra to material list Best of luck with the channel 👍 and hopefully more people can enjoy your uploads Loved the last video about the old mitre saw, the old tools were built to last
Hi there. Thanks for watching some of my stuff.🤩 How cool is it if you learn something new in a day.😀 Picking up bits and bobs from other guys is priceless. Thanks for your comment.
Great video and thanks for all the tips, especially the noggin stick which is a brilliant idea. I have a question regarding an unusual use case. I am converting a commercial property with high ceilings to residential. As part of this work I will be lowering the ceilings and I have come across a problem. When a new stud wall is longer that the length of timber how should I join top plates together timber when there is no ceiling to secure them to? Maybe use a double top plate and overlap?
Hi Matt. It seems bonkers that we use both metric and imperial here as we went decimal in the early 1970,s. We still record distance in miles, body height in feet and inches and land in acres.🤪 Cheers.
@@TheToolnut It is quite funny really, and we all do it. I was taught under an old guy who, obviously, just used imperial. I use metric for ALL my measuring, but imperial still slips out if I'm roughly estimating something.😎 Cheers TN.
Loads of tips there, thanks mate. Do you measure for the noggins with the tape at the height they are being fitted or from the sole/ head plate in case studs are bowed? Also, love the noggin stick idea - is there a limit to how level the floor is that'd stop you using this method & ping a level across the studs instead? Cheers
Hi Dan. I cut 4 noggins at the mathematical size, (centres minus stud thickness), and fit them, and the check with a long level.🤩 I suppose there is a limit to how bad the floor would have to be to not want the noggins to follow it, but, the noggins are only there to help stiffen the the studs so it doesn't really matter about their line. (unless you're plaster boarding to them)👍 Thanks for you comment.
Hi Liam. I don't see the point in it, but Building Control like to see to prevent any residual moisture in the concrete penetrating the timber. They now ask for it to be returned to well above the screed level now as well on both side of the studwork.😣 Great comment mate.
@@thetallcarpenter certainly is m8. It's a pain usually, especially with a nail gun coz you loose that full impact while your trying to hold it but that idea looks like it's the way ahead. Thanks for sharing m8 👍
Hi there. I generally use 90's for everything on the studwork, (63's when nailing the top plate to noggins), and will use 63's on the noggins if I run out of 90's. (roofers always leave loads of 63's lying about). 😎 Cheers.
Hi Daniel. The stud wall is boarded first, and I set the studs so that there is a 10mm gap between the board and the wall for any discrepancy's in the blockwork.👍Cheers
Who studs out like that it is madness ... make them up on the ground and stand them up.. do all your through walls first and do your but walls then .and do all your layout on the ground.. Youd be finished in half the time and no toe nails either ..
Hi DJ. Completing a job like this in 6 hours is impressive.👍 How does your method accommodate a floor that is rough concrete and up and down in level by over an inch?. I presume you lay out your sole and head plates in position and then somehow measure up to the underside of the trusses, make a note of all the different length studs, cut them in order, and then make the panel up on the floor before standing it in as you describe. Or do you just cut all the studs the same length, (to the highest point of the floor), and then make your panels up and then once they are all stood in, pack between the top plate and each truss where its short?. Thanks for your comment and for watching.👍
@@thetallcarpenter if its that rough just wedge them down or pack up .. i have had to do it your way aswell its time consuming. how would you price that.. not to bad if its day work
@@djhago3123 Hi DJ. I find it the best method for the kind of work I do, which is usually on old buildings or over rough screed on new builds. I rarely work on price, and everyone I work for is always happy with the pace and quality of my work as am I. I obviously appreciate that there is many different ways, in carpentry, of doing the same thing, and what works for one person may not work another.👍 Thanks for your comment.😎
@@thetallcarpenter sure one mans whiskey is another man's tea.. it looks nice and neat which is the way i like to see it.. laser levels are the business though pity more trades didn't use them more often. I have 360 green line its a laser square too i use it for setting out foundations and everything.. i find it easier to see.
@@djhago3123 Interesting you say about your level. My Dewalt is ok, but definitely going to get a green one that has the two full beams that cross over, as, as you say, they look so much more functional.👍 Cheers.
What I wouldn't give to have a couple of days on nice jobs l like this one they have been a bit rough lately with this new outfit in working for. Ah well I'll be alright watching these cracking videos and dreaming lol. 👍😃
Hi MYOB. I've got to honest, when it comes to new build work, I think this is as good as it gets.🤩 I know its not ideal that the plumber made a start, (but he's a good lad and we get on well), and yes, the windows aren't in, but the job is clean, has power and a pile of decent materials.😎 I feel for you, as I've been on plenty of jobs over the years that awful.😣 Thanks for your comment.👍
Great video as always, just a tip when you lay your chalk lines on the floor, for the stud sole plate, if there are going to be other trades in and your lines may get rubbed out with their feet, just go over them with a spray can of quick drying varnish,
@@thetallcarpenter Funny anicdote about chalk lines for you. I was doing built in wardrobes in a finished house once. I was subbed in to help another carpenter, he asked me for a chalk line and I gave him my first fix line by mistake. We pinged a red line on new shag carpet to mark the line of the kickboard! He wasn't happy! 😂 He still goes on about it, 😂😂 I try to keep my first fix kit separate from my finishing gear, 👍🔨🇮🇪
Hi Steven. Sorry bud, but if it makes you feel any better, I can never find jeans with long enough legs, cant fit in many cars and stick out like a sore thumb in a crowd😝Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
I always lay my top and bottom wall plates on saw horses and mark out stud and door openings in one go . Don’t know if you’ve ever tried that?. Thanks for the nice video 👍
Hi Jim. Yours is a great, fast and accurate way to mark out, and I suppose this is just the way I do it and works on all the projects I do, some of which are old wonkey houses with out of plumb brickwork, floors and ceilings. 😬 Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.👍
Hi mate, just wandered if you consider leaving a 10 mill gap between non load bearing walls and truss bottom cords would be beneficial in regards to the movement of the trusses? over here in Australia it is a requirement the non load bearing stud walls need to be fixed with L shaped pryda partion hitches which are loosely nailed at the top of vertical slots allowing movement reducing the risk of cracks in plasterboard ceilings etc
Hi Troy🖐We have no such requirement like that here in my part of the UK, and I'd have thought leaving a 10mm gap for truss movement between the ceiling and the wall would cause cracking at that joint🤔Or do you guys have some sort of slip joint where the boards meet allowing them to move👍We don't get any problems with cracking at the stud wall/ceiling joint, but do occasionally get cracks in really big ceilings😬Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter the internal non load bearing walls are connected to bottom chords with L shaped "pryda" connectors loosely nailed to allow for the shrinkage in timbers/trusses reducing the chance of dry lining defects down the track
Excellent work x marks the spot where the timber is going 🤣i have have worked with weirdos who put it the other side , I also run my sole plates through , and cut out after ,with an old saw , but if jambs line through its all good and quicker i suppose , 80 inch in old money for the door frame height , i noticed you quoted metric in a previous comment , which i loved , fair play for having the balls to put your work up , it always looks very good to me
Hi David. Yep, 80" door head opening, old money.🤣 It is a little daunting putting your work out there for anyone to see, but I'm confident in what I do, so am not bothered by nasty or critical comments. I have a new found admiration and respect for guys that make videos of their work, as it not easy and its time consuming.😝 Feedback from you and 99.9% of all the commenters is amazing and constructive, and is much appreciated.😎 Cheers.
@@shizzleinthenizzle Hi there. I really hope that my videos get watched by young guys learning the tread, as its the only reason I'm really doing them. Thanks for your great comment.👍
What is your method for marking off the laser? As in, it's a good 2 to 3mm thick line, do you mark in the middle or the start or end or something? I've just got one and used it on a couple of jobs and messed up because I'd marked diffiosrts of the line. Obviously more of an issue on second fix
Hi there. You're right about it being more crucial on second fix jobs, as when leveling in door stud heads it's not so critical. I usually just go to the centre of the line, but for really accurate leveling, I would use the laser together with a spirit level.😎Cheers.
Thanks for all your great videos, the noggins between the trusses to fix the wall, are they placed on end or are they fixed flat? Also what size nails should I use to skew nail the studs.
Hi Richard🖐I put the ceiling noggins in flat, and at 600mm centers so that they can catch the plasterboard👍I use 90mm nails for doing studwork, but I know some guys use 75's👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Rather than marking the spacings for each stud - would you not use a spacer block to the correct spacing and use that to space out each stud as you put them up ?
Hi Hugh. That would work, but I find, over longer runs, that the spacings can creep due to slight variations on stud thickness.😆 Thanks for your comment.👍
It’s such a shame that cost is determining the inner walls to be built in stud, in mine bungalow all internal walls are concrete blocks no problems with fixing, sound and insulation but thats new builds today. And I agree with the other guy your production is getting so good well done Mr Tall 👍 have a good weekend matey
Hi Jim. This particular developer only uses 3"x2" CLS.🤪 There is quite good sound block insulation in between the studs, but still nowhere as nice to live in as solid blockwork.👍 Thanks for your lovely comment.🤩Cheers
Do you find it quicker to put the bottom and top plate on then infill the studs or to put the Sole plate down and build the walls on the floor and lift up?
Hi there. I fix the top and bottom plates first as the floor isn't always level. As for speed, I'm not really sure. If I wasn't stopping to film, I would have had this completed in a day and a half. Its not for me to judge if that's slow or fast, only the people I do it for, and they are always happy.😁 I'm sure people can do it twice as fast.🤩 Thanks for watching and your comment.👍 Cheers
Hi Freddie. I've done a bit of steel stud a few years ago, and boy, its quick.😎 No bowed studs, everything's dead straight, it wont shrink, makes no dust and its light to handle.😀 We earnt some great money fitting it.😁 Cheers pal.👍
Great video bud 👍🏻 I personally prefer to build the studs on the deck on new builds, each to there own though I suppose. One tip though, put a gorilla bucket next to your saw!! Much easier to keep your work space clean. Great job bud! 🔨🪚💪🏻
Hi Steven. My Gorilla bucket has mysteriously disappeared, and, as you say, is great to have by the saw for offcuts.👍 (I like to make a bit of mess😜). Cheers mate.
I’m a bit of a stickler for cleanliness. Does my head in when the guy I work with leaves off cuts on the saw 🤬. Well at least it’s not just my buckets that grow legs and walk off whenever I’m on site! 👍🏻
@@thetallcarpenter haha, I left RU-vid Running then we thought it was a Boris Johnson video randomly playing then looked up and it was your next video playing. I watched the kitchen Part 1 to Part 4. Thanks for the tips for my next project :)
@@JasonKench That's great Jason. In my next video I will be showing a flat I have been renovating with no expense spared. Much of what I say may be contradictory and not make much sense, and I, of course, will be wearing a high vis jacket.😝🤩 Cheers
Hi there. I put noggins in the ceiling line at 600mm centres from the external wall to fix the top plate to. (this is where the tackers will start boarding from). This means that the plasterboard will be fixed every 600mm at its end, (where it meets the walls), and also have something to fix to at its edge. (being 1.2m wide boards). We use 15mm plasterboard on the ceilings which is ok to be fixed at 600mm centres without the use of noggins.😎 Hope this makes sense, and I will go further into this in another studwork video.👍 Cheers.
@@shizzleinthenizzle Ah OK. At these points I put multiple noggins in so there is always something for the plasterboard to fix to. (and the end of the stud work). 👍Cheers.
Drill cam was quality 😂 have tried a laser measure yet? I use one for those studs that you can't scribe to length with a pencil. I have found it a real time saver
@@thetallcarpenter I have the Bosch professional gsomething40, I was so impressed with the accuracy and the size. I ended up going round and writing all the lengths next to the X's on the sole plate and had my mate cutting and nailing..... Not one loose stud!
Hi Sean. I'll try and do a truss fitting video, but its always difficult to spare the time when I've only got the extra labour for a day to get the trusses on.😬 Thanks for your comment.👍
Hi Dakkyz. I don't really get on with concrete screws. Because they are threaded all the way up, I find that thread grips the timber the same as it grips the concrete, so any gap between the two won't close up. I can overcome this by drilling a larger diameter hole in the timber, but the heads of the screws aren't that big so tend to pull a long way into the wood. I'd like to hear your thoughts on them as I might not have been using them correctly.🤩 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter I've used them for a while now and haven't had any issue.. using the bolts as well I find them better than using the expansion types. I just rarely see plastic plugs been used these days.
@@thetallcarpenter you are spot on with that comment I’ve notced the very same thing . The heads should be bigger . They realy hold a batten off the wall . Think they were designed for upvc frames . Plugs and 100 mm screws for me 😉
@@Tez73 Hi Terry. I have had quite a few guys telling me about concrete/masonry screws, and I have been doing a bit or research. Here in the UK the most widely available concrete screws are the fully threaded type, however, there are some called Tapcon screws which are more like a wood screw and have a countersunk head and a wasted shank, which would mean that they would pull through the timber better. I'm really tempted to get some from Amazon and do a little video about the different fixing methods. If I'm honest, I do find plugs and screws a more versatile fixing solution for the many different applications I come across.👍 Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter yeah it's great being free of the lead and plenty of grunt as you say. Was eying it up for a good while and when I finally got it I'm like why didn't I do this sooner,!?
@@ianthompson9058 I think you're last comment about sums up the last year or so for me with regards going cordless completely.🤩 I never really thought that a cordless SDS drill would really replace a mains one, so this drill together with the Flex volt circular saw were a real eyeopener.😎 (and made my eyes water buying them🤯). Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter yeah that's the only down side. buying tools again and trying to commit to a platform. But it's so liberating once your there . I've got my eyes on the cordless dewalt router now . One of these days 🙏
@@ianthompson9058 Sorry to tell you Ian, but the cordless routers are AMAZING and I use mine now for so much more stuff than I did with the cordless one. You're gonna have to get one, and it's pointless trying to fight it.🤪👍
Great job just why you dont make up the stood walls first then stand all the walls rather then insitu just wondering not saying there is anything wrong pal with the way you go about your stood work 😀
Hi Mark. The floor is just rough laid over site concrete, and varies in height by up to 25mm. If I made up the panels and stood them in, I would still need to cut the studs individually to make them fit the varying heights. 😎 If the floor was nice and level, and also the ceiling line, then I would do as you suggest, by cutting all the studs to the same length and nailing in from each end, and then stand them on an additional floor plate.👍Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter hi mate brill watching you work 👍 great tips and work methods. I was wondering the same thing as mark here as you have answered but I was wondering aswell is the stud walls your putting in count as a structural component to support the trusses or don't they matter and are just their to carry plasterboards and so on. Thanks 😊
@@tepidbudgie Hi there. The walls are purely to partition off the rooms and are clad with plasterboard over sound insulation. The roof is its own structure, and as such does not bear on anything other than the external walls.👍 Thanks for your comment.
Get you alrite if the floor isnt level and uneven thats why you where building your stood walls insitu good work your sound fella and a good chippie pal 😀
Hi Graig. The studwork door heads go in at 2030mm, (bottom edge),from finished floor and the centre line of the wall unit noggins goes in at 2050mm from finished floor.🤩 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter cool, do you take the concrete floor in your video as your finished floor hight as obviously there could be multiple more floors surfaces to be applied post your 1st fix installation ? Good videos, I am an ex joiner myself but mostly worked on refurbishment projects rather than new build.. Nice to see someone that's good at the craft vlogging, thanks for sharing dude👍
@@craigsmith3954 Hi Craig. I would class the finished floor level as the level above which all floor coverings are laid, be it, carpet, wood or tiles. This is reflected in the door lining height of six foot six and five eighths of an inch. (6'6" for the door and 5/8" for the floor covering). The over site concrete on this job was about 65mm below finished floor level, so this was added to 2030mm I allowed for the studwork opening. 😎 Thanks for your comment.👍
@@thetallcarpenter I'm assuming it will have some sort of skeleton timber floor / deck over the oversite as you put a DPC on the current floor... I walked into a 1st fixed block of flats the other week which had a timber deck on top of the concrete at ground floor, I've never seen it done like that before. I suppose it could have some acoustic and service benefits
@@craigsmith3954 Hi Craig. This floor will now have a sand and cement screed hand laid over it to the finished floor level. The DPC under the floor plate is to prevent any moisture that may still be in the oversite concrete from entering the timber. We also fix 100mm DPC up from the bottom of each side of the studwork, to prevent any moisture from the sand and cement screed moving into it.👍 I have worked on flats you describe and have seen the same floor make up details, which as you rightly say, are to reduce sound transfer.🤩 Cheers.
@@jameskeys1896 That saw is from when Black and Decker/DeWalt bought ELU and its EXACTLY the same saw apart from the yellow plastic.😎 Really good saws. I still wear my gas pipe hammer loop as it reminds me of the wonderful man that I served under during my apprenticeship. He has sadly passed away now, but I try and do all my work to a standard that he would approve of.🤩 Thanks for your comment.
We can't help it Martin. Our tools don't just appear. We spend ages researching them and then convincing ourselves that we actually need them, despite the cost. Any new tool day is a good day.🤩 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter yeah i have to hide parcels from the mrs sometimes luckily she doesnt know how much festool costs when the odd one turns up. Picked up some good tips from you regarding stud work thanks
@@offcuts4146 Ha, ha Martin, we've all been there.😵 A blokes biggest fear, is that if he dies, his Mrs will sell all his stuff for the price he said he paid for it!!!.🙈Cheers.
Hi C. I find that if I cut too many the same length, they start to bow the stud, so I only do 4 at a time and them check the stud for straight, and adjust the next noggin accordingly. Perhaps I should not be lazy and set a stop up on the saw, have a count up, and just blast them all out.🤩 Thanks for your comment.👍
Hi Paul. The floor is out of level by an inch or more, so the studs would need to cut at different lengths to accommodate this.😬 Or do you make all the studs the same length and then pack out between the top plate and the ceiling line if the floors out?😃 Cheers.
Really the studwork should be 5-10mm below the trusses ceiling cord to allow for deflection, unless they are load bearing walls, which these don't seem to be. It's also a NHBC standard
@@craigcrofts156 can't recall saying they needed 2 built as tight as possible!? The NHBC may not be involved in this build!? Even if they were I've got 25yrs experience as a supervisor working with the NHBC & they've never once asked for a "deflection" gap on traditionally built stud wall especially on a ground floor wall on top of concrete slab. only when erecting a timber frame building or a multy storey building does deflection then become an issue
