Thank you for this tutorial! It was incredibly useful to me in making my first scarf after years of not knitting. Here are the timestamps for each of the five ways so other viewers can easily navigate the tutorial: 0:18 #1: Looks like a chain of stitches 1:37 #2: Looks like a chain of little beads 4:03 #3: Two garter stitches at each side 5:52 #4: Seed stitch at each side 7:52 #5: i-cord that is created as you knit
I have been knitting for at least 50 years and have never had edge instructions so clearly presented. Thank you for taking the time and being so detailed in your presentation. I'm looking forward to neater edges in the future.
I just found your channel and website today and I am so excited! There are no classes or knitting guilds in my area and other tutorials just didn't make sense to me. You are a very easy person to listen to, and your directions are easy to understand. My grandmother taught me to knit when I was 6. I would try now and again, but could never manage anything more challenging than a scarf. With your videos my ability has increased by leaps and bounds. Thank you so much!
Kate, I'm so happy to know that my tutorials make sense to you :-) If you need help with something that is not yet explained in a video tutorial, send me an email and I'll do my best to help. Happy knitting!
Thank you so much! I'm in my 60s and I just started learning to knit 2 weeks ago from these You Tube videos. My edges were so loopy and ugly, it was frustrating since I have no one to really ask what was wrong.I just came upon this video last evening. I tried the first couple of ways but without success until the third one. Its great that you show multiple examples. My last swatch is beautiful! Thanks again.
@@10rowsaday It was so nice to finally see someone who knits like I do. You hardly ever see anyone do it this way but it seems like it is so much easier and faster than the way everyone else does when they have to pick up the yarn and move it over with their hand!
Thank you. The most helpful parts of this video were when you said explicitly to add and how many to add stitches to the cast on. Also every time you said "right side, wrong side, it doesn't matter." These statements seem simple, but they are extremely clarifying and make this video a tutorial that can actually be used!
Excellent teaching! Thank you for making it clear (going step by step) as to what-to-do & how-to-do these added stitches "for every row" to get a nice, clean border without the curling. On to making some scarfs as gifts (Thumbs up!)
I’m Amazed! I’ve been doing 1 and four; but these other three I will definitely utilize! Fabulous tutorial and I Thank You very much. Clear, concise, and inspiring!❤️🌹❣️
10rowsaday You are more than welcome! Now, I will watch all the other videos! I’m just getting back into knitting the last 6 months and these videos are the best I’ve seen to really help me get precisely the tools needed to perfect my work. Thank You very much🌹🤗
This video is so simple and clear. Really well-made and extremely helpful. Also, I love this woman. She talks at the perfect pace, has a very pleasant voice, and I love her accent.
Another amazing video! You have a wonderful way of explaining without talking down to us. Thank you. I do have an unrelated question- do you block your swatches before demonstrating. It just occurred to me while watching, that none of your swatches are curled.
Hi Karen. Thank you so much for watching my tutorials and for the kind words :-) Yes, I block most of my swatches because curling hides sections of the swatch and distracts from the knitting technique. Some swatches do well without blocking, especially the ones that have one garter ridge at the bottom. Happy knitting :-)
BEST instructions for any level of knitters. I’m glad to start learning how to knit the right way with options too. Thank you very much for for your video.
My dear Anavel, I'm so glad that you like the look of that stitch pattern, even though there is nothing special about that stitch - it is a simple stockinette stitch with i-cord selvedges. Happy knitting :-)
Thank you for this. Great ideas I haven't considered. Can you tell me or do you have a video for what to do when changing yarns with these edges? My last projects edges look kind of funky at the color changes and I'm not sure why. I'm especially interested what you do with a color change at a slip stitch. Does that make sense? Thanks!
Hi Sirena, When we work with several colours, it is better to change the colour right after you work the selvedge stitch that form the edge. The colour pattern at the edge will have a jog, but the edge will look neat and tidy. Good luck :-)
When you slipped that first stitch, you slipped it purl-wise and said to put the yarn at the "back of the work". So, when you turn to work the wrong side (as in your sample), you'll be purling across. Do you now slip purl-wise with the yarn in front (since you now have the back facing you)? Thank you!
This was a great overview of different side-edge techniques to give your knits a nicely finished look. I’m most likely to use the 1st method for my current project because it’s neither a straight stockinette nor garter stitch pattern and the first method will probably work best. I also appreciate the suggestion of doing a little swatch in the pattern to see how the various methods will look. Thanks 😊
Interesting! I always do an I-cord with slip all/knit all at the beginning/end of a row, never with alternating slip/knit stitches. Going to make a swatch today to see the difference between the 2 methods. Thank you for your video, very well explained! :-)
It is just another way of forming an i-cord-looking edge. This method doesn't leave long yarn floats at the edges. The method you use is also great and the floats normally disappear after blocking. Happy knitting :-)
@@10rowsaday Thank you for explaining this. I was just going to ask why you slipped two stitches in the I-cord selvage. That now makes logical sense as a way to eliminate the long float. Very helpful. Thank you for a very clear instructional video. Well done!
Hi thanks for the useful explanation Would you please help me if could I need a link to knit a jumper for my granddaughter her age is 4 years He school require a jumper with the neck V I can’t do it if there is a video to follow it step by step So if could please send it if you don’t mind please
Hi Fatima, I just did a quick search in the pattern section on Ravelry, and here are the results I've got for a "v-neck jumper for a child" - www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=knitting&pa=v-neck&fit=child&query=jumper&sort=best&view=captioned_thumbs I hope some of those jumpers will be similar to the one you are looking for. Happy knitting, my friend!
Hi Nicola. When you seam the bag, run the seam in the area between the selvedge stitches and the main fabric. Otherwise, there are no changes. Good luck :-)
If you plan to seam the garment, the selvages will be hidden inside the seams and won't disrupt the measurements. Otherwise, yes, the extra stitches will slightly increase the width of the project. Happy knitting :-)
Hi Nick. The cast-on edge is formed by the regular long-tail cast-on and two rows of knitting. I made it to keep the edge from curling. As to using these methods on 1x1 ribbing, yes, they will work great with any stitch pattern. An even better way to make side edges for ribbing is to add brioche selvedges. The tutorial about this technique is at www.10rowsaday.com/brioche-selvedges Happy knitting :-)
I have watched your teaching videos now for a few years off and on as well as other sites and I love yours the best! Your voice and explanations are so clear and easy for me that I have learned so many great techniques which has greatly improved my knitting. Thank you so much for being such a great teacher!!!!
Hi Augustina. Happy to hear this tutorial helped you improve the look of the edges :-) As to the stitch pattern used to make swatches, I made them in plain stockinette stitch, but I worked the first two rows in garter stitch to make sure the swatch doesn't curl at the bottom.
Thanks for the tips! I am now making a cardigan (my first project!) and am at the first cast off row for the back panel to shape the armholes for the sleeves. Would you advise me to continue the method of slipping the first stitch and purling the last throughout the rows of decreases? I am noticing a large gap between the first loop on the needle (for the edging) and my other stitches. Thanks so much for the help in advance :)
Hi Julia, When you shape the edges by working two stitches together, you can make these decreases right after you slip the first stitch and right before you purl the last stitch. But if the shaping is steeper and the pattern tells you to bind off several stitches at the beginning of a row, include the selvedge stitch into the number of stitches you bind off (the total number of stitches you bind off should be the same as stated in the pattern). This will break the chain of stitches at the edges but you will continue making it once the shaping is finished. Good luck :-)
Hi Maryna. I was trying to find your website and membership/sponsorship page, but I’m not remembering how to get to it. Can you provide a link, please? I’m hoping you have a video on knitting on a lacy or picot edge around a knitted blanket. Thank you.
Hi Bonnie. Thank you so much for considering supporting my channel :-) I appreciate it a lot. Here's a link to my page on Patreon - www.patreon.com/10rowsaday As to the knitting around a blanket, that's a great topic for one of my next tutorials. Thank you :-)
Hi Mary, if the edges of the project are going to be visible, it's better to attach the yarn in a new colour at the very beginning of the row, then knit the first stitch instead of slipping it. Work to the last stitch and purl the last stitch. Then continue to slip the first stitch in every row. You can also attach the new colour after you slip the first stitch. That will keep the chain of side stitches uninterrupted, but the colours will be a bit shifted at the very beginning of a row. Happy knitting :-)
That's a good question, Aether :-) It all depends on the type of cast on you use. When we use the long-tail or similar cast on, there is no issue with unravelled stitches. This problem usually happens when we use the knit-on or cable cast on. To make sure your stitches don't unravel, either use a different type of cast on or knit the very first stitch. It won't affect the look of the project. Good luck :-)
Eva, this swatch is knitted in basic stockinette stitch. To make the straight vertical edges, slip the first stitch (with the yarn at the back of the work!) and knit the last stitch of every row. Happy knitting :-)
@@10rowsaday I believe what Ava Kay is asking how you knit this stockinette pattern to get the illusion of vertical lines down the pattern. I believe it’s by knitting through the front loop and wrapping the yarn bottom up while the purl is from front loop and wrapped yarn over the top. Unless I’m mistaken as I couldn’t find a video on how to knit this stockinette variation so far. It looks very nice. 🤍
Hi, Maryna, I am using your first neat edge technique although I am going to sew 2 edges together, what would be a great seaming stitch for #1 edging? Will mattress seaming do well? Thank you for your assistance 👍👍👍
Hi Susan. The best way to seam pieces with #1 edging is backstitch (see the tutorial at www.10rowsaday.com/versatile-knitting-seam) You can also use mattress stitch, but because the edging has one stitch for every two rows, there could be tiny holes along the seam. Happy seaming :-)
Great tutorial! Appreciate you teach in English style. Will you explain the proper method in rib stitching? I’ve seen two ways. One with knitting in just back of knit stitch and then pearling as usual and another knitting in back of pearl stitch. I’m very confused. Thank you!!
Hi Elizabeth, normally we knit through the front loop and purl through the front loop when we work in a regular ribbing pattern. The pattern that you described is a "half-twisted rib" that results in a tighter fabric that doesn't stretch as much. It's a great solution for cuffs and necklines because this rib holds the shape better than the regular rib. You can make this ribbing by either knitting through the back loop OR purling through the back loop. The first option (knitting through the back loop) is usually easier. We can also work in a fully twisted ribbing when every stitch is twisted. To make it, you will need to knit through the back loop AND purl through the back loop. It's a bit fiddly but totally worth the effort if you want to make nice cuffs or/and necklines. Happy knitting!
Maryna, I have watched an insane number of knitting videos over the past 2 days. Yours and your techniques are top notch! Like many other less experienced knitters, I have been dissatisfied with my edges. Now that you have given excellent tutorials on how to finish the sides of a knitting project, I can feel more accomplished as a knitter! Thank you for all your tutorials!
