Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ru-vid.comUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
Thanks for the video. This house is quite big, and I was wondering how you could run the lineset from the outdoor unit through the basement to each of the indoor heads without exceeding the maximum allowable pipe length of the system. Does the indoor head condensate drain through gravity or a mini pump?
This was great to see the breakdown. Im not excited about my soon to come DIY multi zone install on our 1600s Millhouse which is all 3ft thick stone walls except for the top floor (loft) which is wood. 5000sqFt (3500 needs cooling) Gonna have to start looking a little closer at where the line sets will penetrate, but beginning to think that they all will probably penetrate the upper floor (wood walls) and then feed down. The wall mounts would likely be suspended on brackets up there (40ft) On massive projects like this one, is it unreasonable to suspect it might be acceptable to keep the line sets EXPOSED on the interior walls with the slim ducts?
It is not VRV and that is correct, the units need to all be in either cooling or heating mode to operate correctly. Auto mode still works in summer/winter but shoulder seasons it is recommended to just put it in cooling or heating mode.
Hey man! We had a 3 head system installed. 2 downstairs and one in the garage. The one jn the garage stays off unless we are in there. Issue is I can have the living room one set to auto, and if I ser the kids playroom to auto it will shut off. Even if I make sure to turn them both on in auto. If I set the one in the kids room to cold, and the living room to auto, they work fine. Do I need to have the garage one on for them to work properly? Any suggestions?
can you open the lines on a 2 zone machine, but only use 1 zone most of the times and turn the 2nd zone on like once in 2 months or smth ? or add a 2nd zone like 8 months later while using the 1st zone ?
I would recommend doing both zones on one outdoor unit at once, but you can run them however you'd like. You don't need to run the zone you don't want running until you want to use it. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching!
if my outdoor unit is 18,000 BTU Dual Zone and my one indoor unit is 18,000 BTU, can I add a 9,000 BTU indoor unit? Or do I need to get rid of the 18,000 BTU indoor unit and get 2 9,000 BTU units?
I'm living at home and my father is planning to have the central hvac replaced in the house. Hopefully after I shared this video on Facebook we get a mini split. It gets stuffy in upstairs rooms as the thermostat is in the living room
Wait. When it reaches the desired temp and it turns off, it doesn't really turn completely off, does it? Why doesn't it continue to extract the humidity? I have a 12000 BTU unit in a small room, I always run it on cool mode and I've never noticed the air to be cool and humid. Never had to run it on dry and I've had clothes dry inside in a few hours, so it's pretty clear on cool it also dries the air.
Can a daikin heat pump be used as a primary heat source? Or do you recommend keeping a furnace as a back up as well? I live in New Hampshire winters can get cold.
I would definitely recommend having a back up heat source. We are located in New Hampshire as well, and while technically a heat pump can keep up, having the back up is nice for peace of mind on the really cold days/nights.
So will this system heat this home entirely also? Was wondering because I am interested in something similer to be installed in my home in the fingerlakes area. I only have baseboard heat at the moment.
It is very useful. I moved into a house with a newly installed a Daikin 3 unit split with inverter connecting to one compressor. For some reasons, one of the unit didn't operate properly. When we turn on the unit, it shuts down after 10-15 secs automatically. Try a few times and still not working. We have a general contractor looked at it. It does not seem to have problem from the installation side as the other two units work. Can you share if there is programming problem. Or which other way that we can trouble shoot. Thanks
My only guess without being out there would be to make sure that unit is in the same operation mode as the others (so if the others are in cooling, make sure that one is in cooling as well). I have seen that happen plenty of times before. They all need to be in the same mode to work correctly.
With a multi-head or zone system can you use the auto feature on the thermostat or do all the indoor units need to be on heat or they all need to be on cool at the same time
We had a Daikin mini split installed in our master bedroom, to cover the bedroom, walk-in closet & small bathroom. They put in a 24,000 btu unit in. If we set the air conditioner at 68 degrees, it’ll continuously blow cold air until it’s 60 degrees in here, and we have to use the remote to turn it off, or it just won’t stop. If we turn on the heat mode and set it to 68, it’ll blow warm air until it’s in the high 70’s, and we have to use the remote to turn it off….this doesn’t seem right and we don’t know what we’re doing wrong. Also, we are not familiar with these units and feel as if we were perhaps sold one that is too large for our bedroom, it’s pretty big, it’s a FTX24AXVJU 24MBH Wall Mount 19 Seer R-410A Fan Coil. Can you please offer your opinions on this? Thank you 😊
24k btu for a bedroom of any size is crazy. Not sure where you live but most large masters will be fine with a 9 or 12k btu unit. If there is substantial heat load and drafts etc . Was this a Daikin Comfort Pro company 🤔
I have a 3 car garage man cave of 660sq ft with 8 ceiling ft high. Its fully insulated even the garage doors too. I live in Clovis California in zone 9b I think. I been looking at the DuctlessAire 12000-BTU 230-Volt 22 SEER 600-sq Smart Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heater with 25-ft Installation Kit for $1052 My garage is fully insulated even the garage doors. WIll this work even though it says only for 600sq ft? Or should I get the 18000-BTU 230-Volt 21 SEER 900-sq Smart Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heater with 25-ft Installation Kit? This one is for 900sq ft but I was reading that if I get an overzsize minisplit it won't work that good?? This one is $1500. Thank u
Nice. I’m looking at the senville 36k quad zone system. The system in charges with enough Puron to charge 100ft of Lineset. Is there a disadvantage to running a longer line. Say 3 16 ft and 1 50 ft? Would I lose efficiency on the longer line? Reason is to have the compressor on the back side of the house will still have a unit in each bedroom.
@@paultheplumber8665 Yeah my laundry room gets hot. I plan on leaving the existing vent system and adding a air purifier so it should push some air in there. I'm told some put a blower vent.
Nice video. But how do I know the cooling Capacity in BTU of my DAIKIN Unit? I have outdoor unit (3MXS52E3V1B) and Indoor Unit (FTXS35J2V1B) and I have no idea how much cooling capacity these units have.
I want to run my lineset through a crawlspace, and It looks as if you have a clean install through the basement, From what I can tell you are using a 2 hole clamp, one for each line set, and then tether them together with zip ties. What size clamps are you using and how far apart do you recommend? Thanks
I was looking for a system for my house since we don’t hace A/C at all in summer is right in the corner. So I wanted to put this system in my house as soon as possible but do you guys work at Woodbridge Virginia the DMV area?????
Hi, I am planning to install a 4 zone unit, 3 heads(9, 9, 12) on the main floor, 1(12) in the basement. Some people told me I should not put the basement head from the same outside unit, they want me two buy two units, a single zone for the basement and 3 zones for the main floor. What do you think?
Check your copper line sets that white ISO POLAR insulation is causing an acidic climate when wet that creates pin holes in the copper. I pulled out a run and put up a video of it leaking through little pin holes over a 15 ft span. Still have another 160 Ft to pull out and the suppliers and manufacturers are trying to hide the failure and pass costs on to you.
Hi Paul, we are building our new house and are going to have radiant slab heating(slab with frost walls) for the heating and planning to install a LG L5H60W0909121218 five zone mini-split, 18kbtu for the living room, 9kbtu for master and second bedroom and the two 9kbtu for the other two bedrooms for the summer time in Maine to cool off and take out the humidity. Would this system be sufficient to cool off the house during the Maine summer time. Thank you
We have 3 bed rooms and a hall and one room in the basement in a split entry home. We live in Acton,massachusetts. Would you do in our area and how much this costs?
@@paultheplumber8665 Bingo, that is the info I was looking for. Max line length is that per individual zone run or is it a total system number? So if I have a shorter run on one zone can another zone have a longer run and still be in spec?
@@IamDerick The max lineset to each head is the same, and it's all independent. Just because you don't use the max on one does not mean you can use more than the max on another.
Not the expert here, but I'm looking at this option too since my central unit just gave out. It's like having a window unit in each room with out the ugly back of the unit hanging out of the window. You can control the temp in each room separately, and the electric bill will be lower. I like the idea.
@@rtshort Are you going to install a head in each bedroom? Between main living area, BRs and office, I'm looking at 5 heads. It gets pricey plus you have all that lineset running on exterior walls. Might just replace my old central air unit and air handler.
@@bokononisti2820 Yeah, that was what I was planning to do. I can get away with 4 heads but would prefer 5. It's a 2 BR, 2BA House but it was built around 1900 (which I love) and it's about 1,800 Sq Feet with 12 Foot ceilings. No insulation in the walls, but I did put some in the attic. Running the entire unit keeping it all heated/cooled puts the electric bill through the roof. I think I'd save enough to justify it by only heating/cooling the space I was in at the time.
@@michaelw482 I ended up getting a 3 unit Mitsubishi installed with a 30k compressor and it was $8500 before rebates, a 4 zone 38k compressor and units would have been $12k
One big reason is electrical, you would need an individual breaker for each outdoor unit if you went with multiple single zone units. Also it would take up much more space outside.
@@HaploBartow I misread this, my bad. The reason for the two seperate units as opposed to one 5 zone were the line set runs. At this house it would have been extremely difficult to get the line sets everywhere they needed to go from one central location. By seperating it and putting one on each side of the house it made the installation much smoother.
I don’t like the look of al the lines in the house. If I wanted a 5 zone there would be lines all over my siding in which I would have to paint them to match the house nope nope nope….. I’ll just save and go with central ac
