Awesome... had mechanic check out my bike yesterday. Bled both calipers, checked master cylinder, brake pads like new, was told nothing else to do...Rode home with lever still mushy and loose... Found this video today, watched it and had bike fixed and working perfect in less than half hour... Thank you
I was talking to other experienced riders and we were looking at a new brake master cylinder replacement. Did this little trick and it worked like a charm!!! Brake handle is right up there now! Thank you for posting this video!!!
As a certified and highly experienced technician, I can say that most of the comments saying that this was the absolute wrong way to do this are wrong. You were very careful when moving the pads back out-although there are other, easier methods. Also, brake cleaner is fine and will NOT damage the square “o”ring on the pistons. Years of doing brakes have proven this. Thanks for the tip, i was pretty sure it was my master cylinder seal going out-though, the lever never sunk all the way down, as it would with a bad internal seal. The fluid was old and probably has moisture built up, but the grimy pistons is the icing on the cake-thanks.
I have a 2002 HD Road King with low mileage. Had it for a few years and it always had a really spongy front brake lever. It almost went to the grip and was unnerving to say the least. I've heard of this fix before but didn't think it was going to solve the issue. It did! Now the lever is firm like it should be. Thanks so much for posting this video!
@@kgchomes I had also tried the trick where you zip tie the brake lever overnight, didn't work. Replaced the master cyl (mine was cracked anyway), didn't work.
Thank you for posting this. I have a 2003 fxdx and have been replacing the pads at half to keep the lever up never suspecting that it was the dirt and grime the whole time, and mine were not that dirty. No one else seemed to know including the dealer. TY again fixed the problem 100 percent.
Thank you! My brakes have been driving me nuts. 32oz of bleeding and then rebuilding the master cylinder just to have the same problem so frustrating. I will try this tomorrow you the man 👍
Thanks for such a simple fix! I think I have almost the exact same bike as you too! Green too! I'm gonna try this before rebuilding the master cylinder! Just when you think you've done everything before, you learn a shortcut! Thanks! Thanks to your daughter too, repairing things together is really a great bonding tool! We need more kids who understand mechanical technology.
Thank you!! A friend with an '08 Road King thought his front master cylinder was shot and he was looking to rebuild it. I found this video. He and a bud pulled the calipers and cleaned them as shown. It worked perfectly.
I came across this video after rebuilding my front master cylinder and still had the same symptoms. The results after doing the procedure were great, no mushy brakes. Thank you
Hello. Thank you for this posting that help me to fixed a mushy front brake lever. NOW, it works perfect . My 2002 sportster XL1200S with >80% brake pads, I tried new Dot5, new speed bleeders and rebuilt front master cylinder but did not help...After watch your video it's problem gone_you are my hero. Happy life again, thank you.
Gonna try this tomorrow I figured it was this so hopefully this works . I currently have barely if any brake pressure to the point were I’m pulling in the throttle.
Man my 05 ultra classic was dragging and squeaking and mushy brake handle and I did exactly what you said man I appreciate you you solve my problem and save me a bunch of headaches we’re up in the mountains of North Carolina riding and luckily I brought my Dyna with me but I spent about an hour this morning working on the ultra classic and it works like a dream thanks again….. cheers
I have the same problem with my 2000 Road King. The brake lever goes all the way to the grip. I knew I could get in you tube and find a guy that put a helpful video on. I’ll look at it tomorrow, thanks for the video! 👍
Thanks for the video! Just did this on my 01 Road King and it worked perfectly. The lever was going all the way to the grip and you could hear it creaking. Hosed out the calipers with about a can of Walmart brake parts cleaner for each side. $4 fix for something that was bothering me for a while
I was very skeptical of this tactic, but I already tried gravity bleeding, traditional pump bleeding and using a vacuum bleeder with no luck. I took off the right caliper and no change, then I did the left side and tested after and I had brakes for the first time on my 03 FLH. I carefully pried the pads apart and they are still mint. I used my widest screwdriver first and used the metal on the pads to get initial separation, then gently used 2 screwdrivers of increasing sizes until they were wide enough to fit over the rotor. Good video AZshooterman! Thanks.
I was skeptical about how well this would work. Result was great and it was really easy. Didn't even need a helper to pull the brake lever! Thanks for the great Video!
I was about to rebuild or replace my mater cylinder when I saw a post on a HD forum, and then fount this video. I had already bled the front brakes twice, and it made no difference. I removed each caliper, pushed the pads to the inside, and wedged a small chisel between the back of the outside pad and the body of the caliper and pumped the lever until the outside pistons pushed out. Cleaned the pistons as shown, then pushed the pads to the outside and repeated the process on the inside pistons. The difference in the lever is significant, the brakes operate like new ! Thanks for taking the time to make this video ! 2003 Electa Glide Ultra Classic w/28K.
I have the exact same problem on my 2001 Harley Heritage Softail. I purchased the bike last summer, and it had this problem. It has not gotten any worse, the pads look very good, pumping the brake doesn't have any effect on the feel. I came across this video and I can't wait to try it. I also can't help but be a little skeptical however; being an auto mechanic, the power of hydraulic fluid should far outpower some grease and grime. Regardless, the first chance I get, I will give this a try. I will report back on my results. Be Safe!
Thank you! Worked like a charm. I changed the brake fluid and bled the system four times and still had a mushy front brake. Thanks to your video brakes are like new. I used simply green tooth brush and compressor.
thank you you are right on ...all the peaple that have a sportster with dual brakes with this problem this will fix your brakes back to perfect... those who said you will have to live with it are dead wrong .... this will cure it it did mine thank you again steve
Worked like a charm. Glad I started here before tearing into things. A good cleaning and I'm back in business. The pads were sticking really bad. Seems like you need to rear wheel off to do the same job on the rear. I guess for now, I'll spray a bunch of brake clean in there and get some gunk out at least.
Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to do it. I currently have this issue on my 2000 RKC, hope to get this done over the weekend. I am not replacing pads yet because my bike only has 7800 miles, but I would caution against using a screwdriver or anything metal to pry the pads open if they are going to be re used. I plan on wedging a wood shim or removing/re installing the pads. Thanks again and ride safe!!!
Dude thanks a million I thought it was my master brake cylinder but saw your video today because I almost died and my brakes work now that's alot once again
I had play in the brake lever. Just sprayed brake cleaner into the caliper while it was still on the bike. Pulled the lever and released 100 times. Now it moves about 1/16 of an inch when depressed.
Thanks. I was thinking I was going to have to rebuild the cylinders. Did this trick (didn't have the luxury of a great assistant like Theona) and it fixed the issue. Less than 30 mins
Thanks for sharing. I've taken the bike in several times and they would just bleed the system, but it never felt right and the brakes would go away after a couple weeks. Today, I did this procedure, and the brakes feel like they did when the bike was new. Easy fix.
Thank you sir for posting this video, I had the same problem and after watching your video I did what you suggested and it fixed my problem. It was and easy and simple fix to an annoying problem and unsafe problem.
thanks just bought 2005 flthpi, pump them at stop to get them to stop. I use the front brake 90 percent of the time, not good having to pump twice , going to do this . lol, long one go's on top. I will remember that.. also I work alone so I will tie or bungee the handle in after I get the caliper off to keep it compressed so I can clean it.. great vid, , PS bled the brakes, nothing, same. cant wait to try this,
wow.. guess I'm trying this when i get home.. didn't think that gunk would stop hydraulic brakes.. the 09 Aprilia RSVR I'm working on is having this issue after reverse bleeding and standard brake bleed.. thanks for the video.
Thanks man my brothers Dyna has mushy brakes and we tried bleeding them with no change.He is coming out here in two days so we can ride up to Sturgis and we will try this.I'll let you know if it works.Oh and good job Fiona!
This worked for me too, thank you for sharing. Sometimes (as was the case for me) it might be worth checking for corrosion or dirt on the two pins that hold the brake pads in the calipers: mine were pretty bad and the pads themselves were not moving properly, adding to the problem.
Great video AZ, I had recently noticed the exact symptoms you described in your video, I was ready to replace my brake pads but after cleaning out pistons, brakes are working great with no more slop in the lever & no swishing sound. Thx for posting;
it definitely will not. this guy's right on, you should clean your pistons every time you change the pads. good on you azshooterman for sharing this kinda stuff. more people need to be educated on how to take maintain their own stuff.
This seems like it worked for me. Too much snow on ground to test. Lever is firm after sitting for 2 days. I used an old tooth brush and brake cleaner to clean up the pistons. Be sure cap is on master cylinder when pushing pistons back in. If not it makes a mess!
I would have used a plastic shim to spread the pads. At least if there were a chance if anything getting broken it would be the shims not the piston o rings. Further a leave the shims in a squeeze the brake to make they are set Before putting on. Makes it a little easier.
Not likely. you need to build up the contact area on the lever that holds the switch open. two part epoxy will work but tig welding buildup is the best solution. had the same problem on my 98 Dyna.
I wish I saw this video before I took them apart (I spent all Saturday taking both calipers apart and rmoving the pads and using a Brush and Brake cleaner and pumping the hand lever and opening the bleeder screws!! (I made a HUGE mess because I unscrewd the Master Cylinder and forced the pistons back in. All I had to do was emove and spray and have a buddy pump the brakes (in 12 minutes like AZShootermann!!)
take a mighty vac (its a hand-operated pump that has a rubber piece that slips on to the bleeder screw on each caliper (cars and Motorcycles) pump it and it will creat a vaccuum) as soon as you open the screw it will "suck" air and brake fluid, thus removing any trapped air. Repeat for each caliper. Open master cylinder cover with phillips screw and top off!!
My brakes are great until i start riding , they then get mushy . I pump them 2 o3 times . they then get hard. Does anyone have a clue what could cause this and how to repair
Can't we just Blast it with compressed air, followed by copius amounts of Brake Cleaner followed buy a Blast of Water hose (all while the brakes are still on the bike??) You can probably due this from the bottom and around the calipers??
I pushed pistons out by appying break after removing caliper. cleaned with toothbrush and break fluid and isopropyl alcohol. Follow service manual precautions, do not put fingers in front of pistons while pushing them out, put screw driver. I inserted pistons back. I removed o rings, dust seals and cleaned them in isopropyl alcohol and break fluid. Apply break fluid on pistons and orings dust seals and insert them back. caliper glide pins need grease of silicone. pad holder bolts need any grease. Silicone grease is used to prevent damage to caliper glide pin rubber boots.
You should never use brake cleaner to clean a caliper in this fashion. The brake cleaner will eventually destroy the rubber seals around the pistons. If you must do this procedure, use Simple Green and an old soft bristle tooth brush or a FOAM tipped qtip and clean the outer part of the pistons after you push them out.