Finally an English FULL version (sorry it's long) of the complete disassembly and re-assembly of a High Pressure 3-stage Water Cooled Pre-Charged Pneumatic (PCP) Hand pump. Full pump tear-down and rebuild.
helo from Poland my pump was completely empty, there was no coolant at all, it's good that I came across your video because the pump certainly wouldn't last long, thanks brother from across the water
Great, informative video. The camera man was filming intuitively where our eyes needed to be. Here in the UK a complete seal kit only costs around $8. It is well worth taking an hour a year to get hassle free use of the pump.
Thank for the video. I purchased an Umarex PCP with a hand pump. The pump had the exact same problem right out of the box. The owner's manual pump troubleshooting section stated: "if the pump is difficult to pull up and springs back down, It needs servicing". For this repair, the manual shows photos repairing the exact parts you did. Since the pump was brand new, I sent it to Umarex USA in AK and they sent me a new pump. What a huge difference. Now it pumps up to 3,000 psi without much effort.
Umarex just re-sells the same exact pump everyone else is using. So they also don't bother putting a lot of effort into how to fix the pump. It's really a lot cheaper for them to quickly test a different pump, then ship it off to you & hope there's not too many more service calls on these pumps!
Nate and Chris I am Very Appreciative of your collective efforts to generate this VIDEO! You've provided me with a fantastic foundation to work from, to understand my own, newly acquired hand pump for my air rifle! That is exactly what I needed!
Very very much appreciated. Great combination of father and son! Your son’s video was better then most other videos where they are moving all over the place and not on the subject. Well done Nate great camera work. And to Dad.... thank you so much you are very resilient and patient to bring us viewers this information. Very much appreciated. Merry Christmas and a happy new year (2022) from “Down Under “ Australia 🇦🇺 😉👍👍👍👍
My Benjamin hand pump is having the same issue after 3 solid years of everyday use, guess that's their lifespan. I also watched the 5 min Chinese instructional vid on disassemble before clicking on yours. Very pleased and confident I'll fix my pump. Thank you for taking the time to show how it gos. Oreilly's is my store. They got the parts while others don't 100% of the time.-951-
Hey guys. Honestly can't thank you enough. Going for a shoot tomorrow and my trusty pump packed up on me (same problem you mentioned) . Found your video at 1 am with the pump completely in pieces and darn it if it weren't for you pointing out that tiny plastic thing I would never have noticed. Thanks again
A piece of mine broke inside so i ended up ordering another from Amazon. Just got it and tore down and added coolant today, and working good, just need to make sure i go slow and don't do too many pumps at once to keep it cool as possible. thanks!
Nice video. My pump was slightly different but helped me get mine apart and back together again. Nice that you didn’t cut out the mistakes. Kept me from making them. Again good job!
Learning by doing... The scene with the fluid on the floor was exactly what happened to me the first time I disassembled my pump.... And now I found your video.... It's probably the best vid you can find about these pumps... Greatings from Germany.. 🇩🇪😜😂😂💪
The wrench has two tabs because it is designed to engage the brass fitting from the top where the three seals are. It’s a tight fit but a much more positive engagement with no chance of marring or denting a tube.
What a great father and son video . That kid is so smart for his age . I’m having problems with my pump had it all in bits still won’t work . One thing to mention there wasent any liquid in mine no idea why ?
Played with my Vevor today. Discovered a gap under the nipple to the hose from the pump. Just threw an additional O-ring (keeping the one already in there/ so doubled up) that came with it and fit snuggly into the hole and fixed right up.
I wonder how Chinese O rings stand up to O rings made in the west. I noticed Chinese rubber doesn't stand up well in other products. The white liquid reminds me of gun cleaning oil or machine oil which you mix with water which not only acts as a cleaning fluid for cleaning salts from cartridges from military rifles like Youngs 303 cleaning oil but would cool and stop corrosion in the pump. Not sure i like the idea of antifreeze. Have you tried rolling the filters in your hand to reduce the filter diameter.
The skinny rod end with two different o-rings is also a one-way valve. That hole lets the 2nd stage air enter the 3rd and last. The pump handle can't raise because the 3 stage is over pressure.
You mean the 2nd stage piston valve isn't opening, to let the 1st stage air flow, so the 1st stage section is remaining pressurized. There's also a 2nd stage outlet valve. That would be the one that is at the very bottom of the pump tubes and was shown over-tightened in this video. The outlet valve has a piston with a green o-ring, which needs to slide open to let air flow past. When this o-ring fails, the pump will push itself back upwards after every full downstroke. When the 2nd stage piston inlet valve o-ring fails, the pump will just simply not reach much past 800psi. These '3-stage' pumps are actually just 2 stage. The chinese translators get confused with all the tubes used, what they mean to say is that there are three sections inside the pump, but there are only two pressure stages
Beware, there's a small rubber ball in the top check valve in that brass cylinder with the handle. Sometimes it can fall off and then you are screwed...
nah these pumps are advertised as water cooled. I'd assume they put the water there to get the heat from the inner chamber out faster, to protect the o rings.
I just wanted to add that I mount my pump on a solid wooden base that allows me to stand with my feet further apart, about my shoulders width. This allows me to use the pump in a more natural stance , not having to keep feet on the stirrups. As the pressure rises above 2,500psi, I was having difficulty gettin the last bottom 2 inches of pump to bottom out. Just sharing what worked for me Oh by the way I'm 61 yrs old and 233 lbs.
Thanks, your video helped me to fix my pump. It had been sent out without any cooling fluid! It was an extremely useful video on how to dissemble it as well. Your son did a great job filming it!
You arse not ass. You must have spent some time this side of the pond in the UK. And a clean shaft certainly is essential. 😁An informative and humorous video. Thanks to you and junior.
He he, at 31:00 I was like: No! No! No!... like I was watching some thriller, and sure enough it happened. The black ring you replaced looked like melted or burned to me. Thx for the video.
Pinch the filter and roll between your finger and thumb to compress slightly, sil lube and twist in, it will decompress to fill the shell/tube just fine. Great guide btw marra 👍
The check valve in the very bottom of the brass plug that goes into the base should not be tightened more than flush, and don't loose the check ball at the top when you take out the pump rod retainer
Also you are definitely missing a little rubber ball that goes into the top brass part that's attached to the handle the center pump rod holds it in and that small pin holds the pump rod loosely against the check ball, the bottom check valve with the spring should only be tightened to flush with the housing, the filter in the blue casing on the hose should be dry and hard similar to a cigarette filter to catch oil and moisture from going into rifle
Definitely, keep that check ball clean with maybe a little bit of think silicone oil. Also, I drilled the handle plate that connects to that brass fitting aka air inlet, and basically turned the handle into a filtered intake, and used an oring on the collared side of the two screws and one that fit inside of the the intake hole are to seal it off
@@HarmonyTurbines Yeah, 2nd that! The 2nd stage outlet valve needs to slide open in order to flow air. But if it's a tiny bit loose, it can be forced to flow, but will make pumping harder
@@TheManic.5-OH Excellant! I did that same mod on my second pump. It had a recess for the o-ring, but the handle didn't have a hole. You can also fill the inside of the handle with a filtering media and put holes in the grips to let air flow in. If you want to be weird, you could even attach a hose to one end of the pump handle, and only use dry air from the outlet of a large dehumidifier
This is old but that needs to be just past flush. Also that small tube was the problem, it's the intake. Nowhere near snug, more like 1 full turn past flush. I'm 12 so..... No I'm a machinist with 30 years experience. The tighter you "snug" that part the harder it is to pump.
GREAT TEAM!!! I just received my pump and noticed some machining chips in the top screw holes,??? SOOO, I decided to follow your Vid and tear down the pump, the top of the second cylinder was so Tight that I had to use your vise method and the spanner cut my palm due to how TIGHT this section was screwed down. When I Finally got the brass to unscrew and looked down the tube the Oring was in pieces. NO Way was this going to pump HPA. And No Coolant in outside tube. Thank U both for your Well Done Vid. Purple Ice and a through cleaning and oring replacement is in progress, THANK U !!!
Thank you so very much Sir, for presenting this "Tutorial" It was very informative and helpful. I'm so happy that someone took the time to teach us how to rebuild this air pump. Some of these Chinese manufactured "Hand Pumps" are of low quality and lack performance. My $200.00 Air Venturi G6 is no exception, it to was made in China, and to me was over priced. It takes me forever to fill my Hatsan AT-44 cylinder. I just stopped counting the strokes. It takes me (3) three 15 minute sessions to fill my tank from 150 bar to 200. A Friend of mine just bought a (Made in Japan) "Yosoo" Hand Pump from Amazon. He'll be at 100 bar, (in theYellow) and be at 200 bar in 38 to 45 strokes. Now that's an Air Pump, and for the reasonable price of $47.00 you can't beat that.👍
Yeah the knock off products are becoming a true problem for all kinds of products that are designed AWESOME originally but copied horribly. It sucks that we have to wade through the junk and the crap of that type of society.
@@HarmonyTurbines it should not take you 45 minutes to fill from 150 to 200 bar. something is not connected properly if that is the case. have him try his pump on your gun and see if it's the same issue. it's a small thank but 0-3.3k psi was well under 15 min on a benjamin/whoever pump I gotn used for sixty bucks
@@mackhomie6 What part of the video are you referring to where I said 45 min? It was a long time ago when I made this and I don't feel like re-watching an hour to answer this question. :) No offense!
Christopher, I have not yet completed this task myself, but I think I do recall you said the outside of the old filter was a little hard. Try this first when replacing the filter in the end of the hose. Get your heat shrink tool, ie gun or lighter, and heat the outside of the new filter just a little, it should tighten up a bit and shrink up just enough to slide in just like the old one. Also I don't think you need to lube the outside of the filter, as it may cause a little trouble down the line. Thanks for the Video.👆
Thanks for your pain and suffering too make our lives a bit easier. I don't do tedious well, But I am good at replacing windows, hopefully this video will keep my pump from becoming yard art!!!
3 года назад
Go easy on the boy mate. shoot a couple of more videos with him and it will be fine. thanks for the video
This video was very educational. I just recently bought a hand pump that talked about its liquid cooling feature and after about a months worth of use the pump failed, Ive torn it apart and it appears I have a failure of the third stage piston seal. I also now realize that they never filled that cavity on my pump with antifreeze. No wonder the piston seal failed so quickly. That third stage cylinder, without the benefit of water cooling, probably cooked the piston seal in short order. There are posters here arguing that the fluid is condensation, If you understand how the pump actually functions, that is obviously not where condensation would collect. However, if you wanted water cooled jacket capability for the third stage piston cylinder, this is exactly where the cooling medium would go.
thank you. i think your son did a great job well done! my son is the same, he loves me to the ends of the world.. you take good care of him. be safe :-)
If you could not pull the handle up, the problem is the air in check valve is not opening. In a nutshell it was a vacuum you were fighting. Also, remember the filters are intended to filter the air as well as absorb moisture and any oil that gets to that point. Saturating it with oil will be very counter productive in allowing it to perform its purpose.
Hmm, that sounds like the problem I have at the moment, 4-5 pump strokes and the handle is nearly impossible to lift, also, I can't hear the pump taking in air, the funny part is that this only happened after I realized my bleed valve wasn't closed all the way, and probably never was, despite the pump has worked properly in the past... So, do you have a suggestion as to how I fix the air intake valve?
Craig, I have a similar 'vacuum' situation where it becomes harder and harder to push the handle down and it rebounds back up on its own. no air is actually passing through anything. it's a brand new pump, never used. any ideas?
I had the same problem, valve at the bottom was sticking causing not to open and created vacuum. Needed cleaning. The valve in mine was different from the video where he dropped the cover screw.
Thank you for the video I have the same problem like yours but my pump only use for couple times. It is going unpump I think I will try it out by myself. Thanks again
Great video. Have same issue. IVE taken mine apart twice without seeing anything wrong except at first take apart there was no fluid just remnant of it being there. I love learning how to take things apart and back but going to have to trash mine and buy a 4 stage and hope for better luck.
If you're implying that the liquid is from condensation ...it's not. The liquid is held in a sealed area between the 2 outer cylinders. The only cylinder which takes the air in and compresses is, is the tiny center cylinder. The middle where the coolant is held has no exposure to outside air and therefore would never have a fresh air supply to condense liquid out of. The liquid in there is put there on purpose ...it's an antifreeze coolant in the unit that we bought. Condensation is created in the central compression cylinder and there are cloth filter traps to keep that from getting into your air rifle cylinder.
"O" rings don't just go bad by being torn, after prolonged use they get rubbed away, or become hardened, something you really can't see with the naked eye
Your son has found his new calling. Great job young man, and to dad, thank you for taking the time to make this video, HUGE help, this was excatly the video I needed to find.
My pump is doing the same thing and I suspect it is something to do with a check valve. I haven’t opened it yet so it’s a total guess. I have replaced my pump but I’m hoping to repair the other one in the meantime
Great video, thank you! I have had the exact same problem. There were no problems with disassembly, but watching your video I found that there is no faulty seal on the end where you had yours, but the complete piston end broke off. :( It was also a cheap pcp pump, but after one month and about 5-6 uses I didn't expect this. Also, mine never had any coolant in it, perhaps it helped it wore out. Or maybe a manufacturing issue.
There is a white fluid that is for cooling it's usually used in machine shops In there machines to cool the metal while there machining it looks like milk wouldn't dought thats the same stuff 🤔🔧💯👌👍✌️🍻
If you can't pull it up your air hole that sucks the air into the cylinder is clogged up . There should also be a moisture filter where the air comes out of the pump and at the end of the hose not just at the end of the hose . If you don't add a filter your going to get moisture into your gun and that's not good . Don't push the filter in twist it in like it has threads . The metal threads will cut the outer plastic coating and make threads as it's twisted in .
Thanks for the video!!! I have the same problem with mine and I already opened but not where the liquid coolant is , so I will do the same and see if works , great video guys!!!!
Great video! I have the same malfunctioning pump. I Really Appreciate the effort put in to this by the both of you! You may have not covered all of the steps, but at least you gave it an Honest effort. You could NOT have caused anyone to destroy / ruin their pump by following your video. THANK YOU! A+++
The spare filters came from a different production batch, likely not even from the same factory. I would sand the inside of the filter housing using a wooden dowl with a thin slot cut in the end, wrap some 600 around that with WD 40 or silicone oil
So I’m going to “float” a theory about the watery stuff. I don’t think it’s supposed to be in there. Mine is bone dry and it operates OK. Could that water be from condensation buildup produced during pumping action? I imagine it would still work but you’d have less and less air coming out as the water builds up in that stage.
Hi David, some pumps could be constructed differently but I find it hard to believe. What we are subject to, more often than not, is attempts by overseas companies trying to "knock off" legitimate technology and trying to do it "on the cheap" so often times they don't even properly understand what they're copying. In this case this company may have followed the plans but never even paid attention to the very important part of COOLING. Look at my very large post in another comment here where I explain some careful details about the coolant.
My second pump was brand new and came without coolant. It worked fine for months, and then quit. When I rebuilt it, I added coolant. It's possible that you are just being very careful with your pump and not going too fast, or for too long at a time. The coolant just adds an extra margin for preventing the second stage from melting it's o-rings
Loads of people keep floating that idea... According to the manufacturer it should have coolant. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0DkvvRaGPdg.html But these pumps often don't ship with oil or water based coolant.
Thank you to you and your son for making this video. I have the same unit and was confused by the statement in the assembly instructions that "No water needs to be added because it was added at the factory", now I know what they were talking about. I'm guessing the people saying their units don't have any liquid didn't read their manuals, or more likely the manual was incomprehensible like mine was. I think that the same sleave valve you had to replace is breaking down on my pump. The pump spit a black oily sludge from the pressure release valve the other day. My first assumption was some of the o-rings were breaking down and the dust was combining with oil and water condensate to make that sludge. Now I think the sleave is breaking down. Do you know if the antifreeze and water mixture is safe for the o-rings used to seal the water jacket? I'm just trying to figure out why the factory was using an oil and water emulsion instead of a proper anti-freeze mixture. Maybe it was used cutting fluid. :)
I would guess either cutting fluid from a fast careless cleaning job after the cylinder was machined or threads were cut; or it's oil from the container that the o-rings were in prior to assembly. Either way careless assembly at the factory would be the cause.
In china, anything is possible! I have two of these pumps, and both had no coolant inside the section where coolant is needed. The 1st pump was already used, and maybe the previous owner just didn't put coolant back in. But the second was brand new and came that way from the factory. The 2nd stage piston seals and everything downstream get very hot from the compression of the air. This gets the o-ring material to soften and or melt, which is what then gets mixed into the silicone oil. The $300 hand pumps use o-rings made from very high temp rated materials, these chinese pumps are using low cost Buna N for the o-rings, except for the green o-rings, and those are also nothing too special. Likely Nitrile like what's used for fuel injectors on cars
Awesome video. Props to little man there and very helpful my pump was doing the same thing
3 года назад
And for the audio.. When you edit the video look if one of the audio channels has clean audio. Sometimes you touch one microphone but the other one still records ok audio. So one audio channel has still normal audio to use.
Nope! If it had been a stereo recording, then one channel would have dropped low, but the other would have remained normal. In this video, both channels drop low
3 года назад
@@nopeaddict144 what nope?? Did I said he should go back and edit the video again?? I gave general advice about editing. I had the same situation many times and I was able to use the channel which had clean audio.
Awesome video! Was a good watch even though took some time. A very well done video imo. Good camera work too. Just ordered a couple of days ago an "inexpensive" (😁) hand pump. Seems like one alike this one - and the one as in the Topa (pt.1 and pt.2) videos. Probably gonna just test it with some empty strokes - and then just take it apart straight away. To see if the coolant really is in there - and then if it is in there, just switch it out straight away. Some good hints and info already gotten - even though the pump has not even yet arrived..😁 Thanks for the way good video! Very informative.
Haha so funny hearing someone other than a Brit say "arse". Great work though, I have this pump and the idea of doing maintenance on it gives me a panic attack!
I don't know how to thank you and your son for the best complete disassembly and assembly and in actions and words the average person could work with. I've watched alot of videos and yours by far is one of the best absolutely the best on these inexpensive pumps. The kind of hand pump the average person is going to purchase and use and you saved some choice words for some people that's for sure and you helped me so very much. Oh yeah did you get oil in your pump gauge or did you have to add it later and if so what kind of oil. Thanks again for your advice and time tips you have taught me some useful lessons
Oil-filled gauges are not needed for hand pumps. The chinese only do that because that's the type of gauge they have already in the right pressure range. The oil is only there to damp out any oscillations in the needle, if the gauge is attached to a very turbulent pumping system. But, if you sell pumps with & without the oil inside the gauge, you will find that the ones with oil sell faster
