Bought this printer on a big discount and boy what a headache its been out of the box. So glad videos like this exist to help me troubleshoot my problems. It prints great once you get everything running properly but its alot of effort up front just to get a decent print. This printer jams up the nozzle pretty easily so i think some upgrades are in my future. Glad you have videos about that too! Thanks for your support and sharing your knowledge.
Thank you! 5 unhelpful chats with Creality and you're video helped me fix my printer issue in 15 mins! I have a CR6-SE and the back right side of the bed kept failing the auto leveling because the right side was so low. So low the print head didn't come in contact with the print surface and errored out, Error 203. I had already tightened the bed and that didn't resolve the issue. IT ended up being the Z Axis coupler. I ran the print head to the far left and brought it just above the bed then ran it all the way to the right, loosened the Allen screw and lowered the print head to just above the bed. I then tightened the Allen screw and ran an auto bed level My printer is now fixed! My printer was working fine up until about 2 weeks ago so I'm guessing the allen screw was a bit loose and the print head became unlevel over time. Thanks again!
Thank you for making videos on the CR10 and CR6SE, very well done and very informative. Please keep it up, you're one of the few out there doing these.
Tried adjusting the Zed Rods to ensure the X cross bar was 90° to the Zed post and this solved my repeated "203 Bed Level Fail" error messages on my Ender 3 S1 Pro. Thanks so much. Posted a link to your RU-vid on the Ender 3 FB group.
I have a CR-10S (my first printer) and I remember an assembly video I watched right before I assembled it made a really big deal out of "tightening" the Y-axis adjustment wheels. It was the very first thing I ever did with my very first printer. It must have a difference because I'm still using it. Just got my refurbished CR-10 Smart today and found your video. Thanks for the recommendations and reminders.
@@EmbraceMaking honestly I first tried the second recommendation of loosening the middle extrusion screws and retighening then a bit. This seemd to be all I needed to do. Genius level observation. Well done. Once I get the full printer assembled, I'll check the X-axis as you recommend as well.
I found the solution to this on another video on RU-vid, after wasting hours flashing stuff, the simple thing to do is to go to Settings>Reset to factory settings and now it all aowrks like to it should and I can get back to printing again.
Hello your video is very helpful. The problem I seem to have is with the strain gauge. I was told by Creality that when it senses pressure a blue led lights up on main board. Mine is always on. Is it a voltage issue and can I adjust, like turn a pot? If so where is it? Thanks
Hi Kevin, you can adjust the sensitivity of that probe. On the auxiliary board where you see the blue light, there should be a small trim pot close by. You can turn that until the light goes away. Then you want to lightly touch the probe and see if it lights back up. Keep adjusting until you find the spot where a pretty light touch will trigger it.
Bought my first printer 7mo ago, e3pro, loved it and basically have been using it every day since. I wanted to upgrade and went for the e3 s1 plus, got it today and it's been nothing but heartache. Keep getting a 203 probing error, even if it's bypassed every print finishes on the second it starts.. tried a new SD card and nothing. Feeling very stupid buying a 500$ paper weight, could be a defective unit but it's so frustrating and defeating thinking of going through a rma / replacement process. I can't find much info on it, this video is the best I've found but still couldn't fix the issue unfortunately. Thanks for still posting tho, subbed.
Thanks for the sub! That is the thing with Creality printers... most are okay but the odd person just has a horrible experience. At the end of the day they are still subject to Chinese quality control which tends to be hit and miss. My S1 was really great. My CR 10 Smart was great for quite some time but eventually succumbed to weird auto bed levelling issues from a bad probe.
@Ice Blast Go to ready and lower the z axis until it's close enough to the bed where a sticky note just passes under. When I first got mine I had to manually lower the z axis like this or I'd get that probe error when it would auto level the first time. Printer is quirky... ngl, but once it's up and going you'll be happy.
@Ice Blast something like that. Part of my 203 error was the bed was too low. Bed came smooshed all the way down with the wheels locked out - so I had to loosen them for the bed to be closer to the nozzle. Then in the setting had raise the bed 5mm.. this is what got my 203 error resolved. Additionally, have you done a firmware update? Highly suggest updating the firmware, RU-vid ender s1 plus firmware update. There will be two videos. One for the main board and one for the lcd screen, the main board video is the one to watch. Basically you just drop the file in the SD card, put the card in while the units off, then turn on. It will automatically being the update. Once it's done you can verify in the settings if the firmware number changed.
Thanks for this and your efforts, I have been battling with this machine although I have had some of the best prints ever when it has worked. Having confirmation that the mesh is being loaded eliminates alot of the hassle with startup gcode so that has reduced my fault finding. I am going to try out your suggestions on the Y axis tonight and more importantly the tramming of the x axis to the bed. Visually there is a very noticeable difference in the layer compression from the left where it is visible to to right where it is not and suffers stepper skipping. Finding this video I am very hopeful that I might be able to get some reliance to my printer so thank you once again... fingers crossed ;-) ......... Update 24hrs later this printer is printing like a dream, abl was working but the grub screw was not tight on the right hand lead screw. The difference from far left to far right was 1.2mm have done loads of adjustments and tramming and now difference is .01 which is totally negligible. I am so grateful for your video it pointed me in the right direction. Thanks
Thanks for the comment and thanks for updating with your results. Tramming the x axis helps SO much it is a very much looked over detail as people assume bed levelling will fix it... but this printer has no traditional bed levelling. Great work!
@@EmbraceMaking wanted to quickly update on this machine. Levelling hasn’t needed to be done since applying your fixes and it’s been printing almost 24/7 quality is superb and zero adhesion problems. Am loving it and is now my favourite printer out of 6 machines
On my CR-6 MAX the bolts for the roller bracket Z Axis (3 screws left and 3 screws right bracket) came loose. As well as the print head roller bracket screws. I had a lot of play from the print head to the bed. After I tighten them back up the error was gone.
Great video thanks. I ordered mine with a black friday sale. I look forward to using this to get great results. Hopefully I can avoid it scratching my glass plate.
The CR10 smart has no bed levelling screws. You can try and shim the bed by removing the aluminum bed and using spacers between the aluminum bed and the standoffs.
@@justcreate1387 I have not needed to do this. My build plate came in reasonably flat and I setup my machine pretty square. However, I've seen videos and posts from people who have had to do this.
@@EmbraceMaking nice! I have seen almost everyone online trying to hack and manually level this product. But they were not aware of your findings nor did they implement any of the fixes you suggested. You have created an absolutely amazing and informative videos on this product. Thank you for your time and effort in putting such well thought out videos together!
Great video, looking for ideas on an issue I have been having when printing. I have completed the auto bed levelling my printer, all 16 areas are blue on the grid, so assume it is level, however when I print, the hot end keeps on scratching the glass bed on the right hand sode of the print, but then manages to print the left side. If you have any ideas on what I can do, it would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks
Hi Scott, one thing to check for is the flatness of your print bed... although the autobed leveling can compensate for variations in the surface it may not be able to compensate if its off too much... especially if things start warping when the bed heats up. If you have a straight edge like a ruler or carpenters square, heat your print bed up and lay it across the glass lengthwise, widthwise and across the corners diagonally... see if it is flat or if you have a high point somewhere...
@@EmbraceMaking Thanks for the suggestion, i have tried this and cound not see any discernable difference, even when shining a light from the other side of the ruler. Funny thing is when I started it up to head the bed, the control panel would not do anything initially, just froze and then started selecting a lot of different settings and accessing menu's by itself. very strange. I suspect this machine is one that has either not been property tested before sending out from the factory, or it may have been oine that has been previously retuned by another user, checked and reissued. I have decided to send this machine back and get a different one, in your experience what would be the best printer to go for for a beginner that has a decent build volume (300x300x400) as I am printing masks etc for cosplay. any suggestions/ recommendations greatly received. Thanks again
I hate this printer. I works fine when it works but when it doesn't you have to battle it. You can get a perfect print and then reprint the same file without taking the card out and the machine ABL will screw it up. I'll probably never buy another creality printer again sense it's ABL isn't true to what they claim.
After correcting this issue I had many trouble free prints... but eventually my strain gauge sensor gave out and I started having issues. However... I have a solution... stay tuned for a upcoming video where I fix this printer once and for all!
@@EmbraceMaking I'll stay tuned. I saw a video where someone turned our beds into a more ender style with springs. I think that would be a good solution. When you are at the Ready menu and under the z axis location. Do you know what the M with the lock means?
I've been debating on which large format printer to get and like what the CR-10 smart has to offer. But it seems it works when it does and then most of the time it just falls apart. Does anyone who own's the CR-10 smart still recommend it? It's between the CR-10 smart, SUNLU S8 Pro, Longer LK5 pro, or the Geeetech A30 pro just not sure which will be more reliable and upgradable?
The printer has potential but it has a few unfortunate flaws. I have no experience with the other ones you listed but... I'm working on a very solid fix for this printer. Combination of different probe and all new firmware with a guy who does all sorts of custom firmware. Hopefully have this solution out soon.
Great Video, i have some issues with mine on the first layer adhesion. I tried several temperature 50-70 degrees but you said you tried it with glue? Do you set the temperature to 0 in this case? i tried this also but the glue is getting dry to fast so the bed is not sticky.
Yes, and more recently I flipped the glass over to the smooth side and used glue and adhesion is even better! I always run the bed at 55 - 60 with PLA and glue.
Hello there, While trying to print with the CR-10 Smart, the nozzle(z) touches the middle and puts the filament. Then he goes to the left and draws a classic straight line. The problem I'm experiencing is; I don't want it to touch the middle just before printing. Do you know the solution?
I believe you would have to edit the firmware to do this. I don't think its a good idea though... this printer does not have a traditional z stop. So if the printer does not probe the center of the bed first it does not know where z=0 is unless you had done it before the print starts.
I have the exact printer and also had the Z-axis issue, with a difference of about 2.50mm from left to right along with having to shim the front of the Y-Axis as there was about a 5mm difference between the front and the rear of the travel.
That's a huge variation, but at least on the x carriage you can just adjust the lead screws to fix the left to right issue... the build plate is a pain to do
@@EmbraceMaking Did you ever have issues with heat creep on this printer. Lately, some prints would print fine for about an hour and then suddenly start missing layers cause the nozzle clogged up and the extruder started skipping. In some cases it's so bad that the extruder completely cuts through the filament causing a failed print. Are there any known hot end upgrades for this printer that will solve the problems i am experiencing.
Mostly positive experience with the hotend... however I did at some point have a jam and I had to disassemble and clear it out. Then I broke the extruder fan while putting it back together and said screw it, I'm going to an all metal hot end and direct drive for fun. Check my channel... they are some of my most recent videos, one for the all metal hot end, and the other for the bondtech LGX lite which has been a very nice combination so far.
Год назад
@@mikebmike1999 Mine had the nozzle clogged up and stuck in the Bowden tube right after passing the mesh wheel. I presume my PLA got heated up near the extruder and then got retracted back and solidified. Was fun to watch while it was printing nothing but air. PS. To me, Ender 3 WAS and IS the most stable machine. Every model after = headache.
See below, I didn't change this from the profile available in Prusa Slicer. For some reason though, my end gcode (not included here) causes the printer to hang at the end of the print and it doesn't shut the heated bed or nozzle off sometimes. So I can't leave it unattended. Pretty annoying... still trying to sort that one out. G90 ; use absolute coordinates M83 ; extruder relative mode M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]-50} ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize G28 ; home all axis G1 Z50 F240 G1 X2 Y10 F3000 M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize G1 Z0.28 F240 G92 E0 G1 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle G1 X2.3 F5000 G92 E0 G1 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle G92 E0
I looked it up and it says G28 disables bed leveling. Now I'm not sure if that means it disables it from probing at the start of the print or disables the mesh altogether. However, I am certain that my z axis is moving during the first layer and subsequent layers of the print. So either G28 is only disabling the probing sequence at the beginning of a print, or perhaps the firmware is ignoring it. Since the making of this video, I have printed almost daily and have not had to level it since. On larger prints like I said, I can watch the z axis move while printing a single layer. I just wish Creality would put out a new and actually decent firmware to make things easier to use.
@@EmbraceMaking ok if you do see it moving at first layer, then maybe they have the define ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 at the firmware... I am waiting the creality make the source code open for the community firmwares... Otherwise thats sux...
Perhaps thats what it is. I'm still putting together my long term review of this printer, but my biggest complaint so far is the firmware. Creality doesn't seem to have a problem stealing Marlin and commercializing it for their own benefit, but then not making the firmware open for people to edit. They do a lousy job of testing and putting out a reliable firmware.
I put it in my start gcode after the last G28 command just in case... shortly I will have a new video with some great news about firmware for this printer. Stay tuned.
@@EmbraceMaking It Zhops. I can't stop it from Zhopping in vase mode. I ran the program on my ender 3 Pro, then just took out the M420 S1, and it does the bottom normally, but the Zhop just kept going every time it rose in Z. Crazy.
I was running the original this whole time. Recently I have had problems with my strain gauge sensor but from the beginning I had no reason to upgrade firmware.
@@EmbraceMaking weird, mine was never looking like this, after og upgrade, my autolevel doesnt show anything, also filament sensor is bad, stops prints, overall cr10s is S for shitty.. im very dissapointed with this machine
Sounds like your sensor isn't working properly... if you wiggle the filament in the sensor does the error turn off? Or if you wiggle the wires does that help? Could be a broken sensor or bad wire
Nevermind, I see your comment from before. Perhaps some of the bed screws have come loose. Have you tried removing your glass bed and making sure all of the screws in the aluminum are snug? Don't go overboard tightening them, just make sure they aren't loose. Try that first, its possible some of them backed off
