I truly hope this helps others that don't have money to waste on parts designed to fail. As I get the parts made up I'll update. The heavy cables I already have had for many years and not sure of their cost , but it would be an investment to a permanent fix. Also I plan to use a pull ,push cable for the front deferential but there is already bunches of videos on that topic.
I did a similar mod to a 2004 S-10 ZR2 Blazer I had. It had a pointless floor shift for the transmission which in that small vehicle was just in the way and a push button 4WD control which was vacuum powered and rarely worked due to flimsiness and vacuum leaks. Since the older transfer cases had the shifter rod instead of the motorized actuator, I wanted to copy the setup from an 88 S-15 Jimmy Id owned years earlier. It had a floor shift transfer case and steering column transmission shift. I just found a salvage yard setup and got that shifter assembly, bolted it right up to my transfer case and only had to take out my full floor console which I didn't want because the transmission shift took up all its space anyway. I replaced the steering column with a column shift type from a non ZR2 Blazer. So that got rid of the transmission shifter in the way (which was easy to accidently bump out of gear anyway) and also eliminated the transfer case press-4WD-and-hope-it-goes-into-4WD process in lieu of positive shifts into 4wd. I also used the small console surround for the Transfer case shifter which fit up under the dash nicely and a floor console from the same donor Blazer that supplied the steering column. Between that and a push-pull locking cable manual select for the front differential, the ZR2 was a capable and dependable off road and winter driving vehicle after that.
I'm glad I watched this. I'm actually about to cut a slot in my cab and send a bar up through between my seat. That's about where the shift prong is located. What do I got to lose? 4wd already departed😆
Did you ever get this to work? I have a problem with my 4x4 drive and would love to do something like this to mine and do without the electrical difficulties
This is great!!!! I'm about to start a 2wd to 4wd conversion on a 2010 Jeep Liberty. I chose the mp1522 commandtrac-II transfer case, since it's simpler than the mp3022 selectrac II. It is actuated by a motor as well. Since my computer is for 2wd, I'll have to send voltage to the motor manually via a momentary switch and then wire a voltmeter to the sensor to see what position the case is in. But what I would REALLY love to do is what you're doing. Scrap the motor, get a lever from a '02-'07, which had the same case but manually actuated. Then I wouldn't need the position feedback. I would just have to find a way to rig the lever to my center console. It would be great if you'd post an update to this video. Maybe it'll give me some ideas if I decide to go manual.
Looking forward to watching the next video. Hopefully you cover the front diff actuator & 4WD control module operating with this work around. I'd probably just get a used encoder motor from Pull A Part for $20 to avoid the extra time involved making this work. Especially if the reasoning is to rub it in the face of technicians that work on a multitude of different drive train related repairs to pay their bills & put food on the table for their kids to eat. Just my humble opinion hope you get the resolve you're looking for.
A used encoder motor might not solve the problem. I've swapped every part in the system with the exception of the TC itself and still don't have things back to normal. I'm guessing I have a broken wire somewhere, but I can't track it down.
Good for you, If man engineered it, HE can deEngineer it.......these so called Technicians only need how to change parts, they are NO mechanics. Good luck to you :)
I got a question I got a buddy of mine's got his truck stuck over in Mobile they're telling me needs a transmission and it's working fine it's stuck to where it won't go in any gear if he takes this part and puts a wrench on it can he get it in regular get it out of four wheel drive he just wants two wheel drive please contact me
Have the same problem. 99 Tahoe.. it is miserable it's embarrassing. I use mine on the farm. I don't go out rock crawl or play with it. I actually hate it I hate the vehicle...293000. miles original engine original transmission and this problem has been doing it ever since 230,000. You wouldn't believe how many other Farmers have bought a Ford truck just because of this problem with this truck. It's embarrassing you lock it in 4-wheel drive to pull a piece of equipment or to move something then you got a ride around for a day-and-a-half stuck in 4 wheel drive..
230,000 with no 4wd problems is a long time. You should be happy everything is original and still working. Fix the 4wd and stop blaming the truck lol those truck are super reliable
The GMT800 series is basically the 99-2006 full sized Chevys. Well known to be one of if not THE most reliable truck drivetrain ever made. Yes, I’m sure some guys have old trucks or individual examples which have gone more miles without rebuild. But across the board these trucks are more reliable than anything else before or after. Yes the 4WD thing is a royal pain in the ass.
Dealing with the same issues and have narrowed it to TCCM or a wiring issue. I had 2wd or 4wd with 4auto button lit but wasn’t auto 4x4 only 4x4. Anytime I would hit gas hard it would blow trec fuse. Assuming it’s the tccm trying to modulate the auto 4x4. for the time being I pulled the gear off the encoder motor so it can’t turn the actual gears. Manually clicked the t case into 4wd. As mentioned it works until fuse blows then it goes back to 2x4. So I figured I’d take the risk of jumping the fuse to avoid it blowing to see what happens.. what happens is it keeps 4x4 working without the auto function. However I still can’t use the push buttons to shift back to 2x4 as I have no push buttons working just 4x4 auto lit up. So for the meantime I pull the jumper out of the trec fuse slot for 2x4 and put the jumper back in for 4x4. I pull and install jumper with ignition off. so far it does what I need. Until I have this solved I’m not SOL in these WI snow storms and I have 2x4 when I don’t want to bind up the 4x4 on the dry pavement. use at your own risk and I would say it’s a last resort Solution until you and I are able to fix correctly.
lucas mcelroy You can also put a pull cable on the front diff to lock or unlock the front so you could leave it in 4x4 Hi and unlock the front so it doesn't bind in 4x4 on dry pavement. The vacuum "thingy" is under the battery box. You may know this already tho. There are several videos about this mod on the Tube. I haven't installed it yet on my old girl. I got the pull twist lock cables on Amazon for like $4 each , ordered 4 because they were so cheap the other three will hang on the wall until I need them to put a pull throttle on a PTO truck or something. I try not to half @$$ things but anything that is electronic such as this transfer case I try to make it mechanical and "simple" just like me and the short bus I rd to school on. BTW I don't see how y'all handle those cold winters. We had a week of single digit temps and I hurt so bad I could stand it.
You can easily do that by taking the case apart and simply replacing the selector shaft with one from any year that has a shift on the floor. You do not have to change the entire t-case. This shaft is a drop in replacement - HOWEVER you must re-flash all the electronic stuff to get it to work... THAT is the hard part - and I am not sure it is possible..
Well how'd it come out Phil? I'm doing a swap that has one of these tcases. It relies on a separate computer that talks to the pcm and the tcm and the bcm all that the same time to shift the motor. It's just too much fooling around with unnecessary electronics.
The Blazer was stolen and recovered , but they spun a bearing in the engine. I plan on giving to my daughter once I get it running again. I hadn't put it together before it was stolen. They have a vacuum switch in the transfer switch to lock in the front diff that can also be manually locked in. There are several videos on doing this.
Hi can I ask another question please Can I just do this manually With out a motor. As my Mercedes sprinter 4x4 reads no faults codes but it still is not working to transfer to high wheel 4x4 I am stuck in 4wheel drive low. I've reset the Mercedes computer system And no faults. I'm thinking to take the motor off turn the spine shaft manually while Jacking up the wheels off the ground until I hear a click and it moves along hopefully finding four-wheel-drive Best wishes And thank you in advance for any replies
I'm not sure how Mercedes made thier transfer case. If the servo motor is easy to get to I'd try taking it off and seeing if you could manually turning the shaft. On the GM it had an exposed shaft with 2 flats that a 9/16" wrench could fit on to turn it. On new stuff they could have put the motor inside the case. You'll just have to check and see. Good luck.
So how did you deal with the computer needing to know what position it was in though? Most of the time the issue is the ground at the driver side cab mount
The computer has nothing to do with it. It sends a vacuum to the front to lock in the front differential by means of slots inside the transfer case when it's put into 4x4. Or you can put a manual cable to the front differential to eliminate the vacuum actuator. It connects under the battery box.
It does have something to do with the computer. There are speed sensors on the front axle, the input and output of the transfer case and the rear axle too, which ultimately tell the computer what’s going on. They are mainly used for the 4WDAuto so that if the rear axle is spinning much faster than the rear, usually more than 100rpm faster, it engages an electrically actuated clutch to engage the front axle, and likewise CAN lock the front diff if needed. Also, if the pushbuttons are requesting a certain mode and the speed sensors don’t reflect that mode being actual, then it puts the “Service 4WD System” message on the dash. If anything electronic is wrong it will put that message up.
But it's still electric over manual because of the front actuator on the deferential but that can be remedied by putting a posi lock cable system in which it can be Ordered through summit racing
Dallas Vanwinkle I honestly don't know. I done this to get around the electronic issues of the 4x4. I like these vehicles but this is a weak link once they start showing age , so I went around this by making it mechanical and taking off the motor that engages it and using the cable.
Dallas Vanwinkle I made everything using a 9/16 inch wrench on the shaft coming out of the transfer case. If you can find one from a salvage yard to borrow to make your brackets off of so you won't need to drop your case to mock up. I need to make the follow up showing my crude 1st bracket showing how I made it. I used the open end of the boxed in wrench and welded something across the open end so it can't fall off the shifter shaft. Hopefully you can find a junkyard that will let you get your measurements to make up the bracket. Also you could use a simple piece of rod instead of the cable to make it more simple and have it come up thru the floor beside your console. None of these swaps are gonna look pretty unless hid inside the console or some other creative solution. Good luck.
These don't have front hubs ,but lock at the differential by a vacuum tube from the transfer case. There is a cable that connects under the battery box that you can connect a cable to and run into the cab to totally make it manual, mechanical.
That's the idea-make it overly complicated to where it WILL eventually fail forcing us poor working saps to buy parts. (Now cheaply made in China with some less than good quality control.) I quit buying 'OEM' when I saw 'China' stamped on it. I'm having a similar problem except mine is a 98 LT 3-button. When I push 4-Hi I hear the solenoid 'click' but my front doesn't engage. I miss the old reliable center floor mounted levers that gave you a direct mechanical connection-not this silly electrical/vacuum nonsense. (To make it easy for women I bet.)
@@matthewsalvador9783 There is quite a bit more to designing a product that interferes with the drive train of a vehicle. The liability factor alone wouldn't be worth the risk. If the transfer case selector end points are off there could be a wide range of issues that would follow in short order. Simple grinding & accelerated wear to serious catastrophic failure at highway speeds causing severe injury or death. Someones children could die if the T-case grenades doing 65 mph for nothing but a terrible idea that proves that this is nothing more than someone thinking their smarter than the engineers at GM. This is only one single piece involved with the operation of push button 4WD & a very well designed & built one at that. Its simpler to clean & refurbish the existing unit if possible than anything of this nature could provide. Or pay anywhere from $20 for a used encoder all the way upto several hundred for a new unit from the dealer. The dealer option would still put you miles ahead of a cable shift homemade disaster such as this that will undoubtedly fail much sooner than factory designed equipment.
Did you ever figure it out ? I have a 2012 GMC canyon and I have a service 4x4 message and nothing works I through a new transfer case control module at it because I water logged my old one when In 4lo so I wasn't able to shift properly with the new module I got it back to shifting right but have no 4x4 I tried throwing a new transfer case motor but have been messing with it and its all out of position now also took the old motor apart and can manual shift my t case with the old spline gear and vice grips but for some reason can't get my 4x4 to even try to shift anything electric I even tried replacing my actuator did not help
If you pull the servo motor off the side of the transfer case you can see what you will need to adapt to make it manual. My little Blazer was side swiped when the interstate was shut down soon after I made this video. Yóu will need to make your own linkage up thru the floorboard to control it.
Mine was under the battery box. I put a cable and connected to it. It seems that once the 4x4 is cativeted on the transfer case that it'll send a vacuum to the front differential to lock it in anyway. I went ahead and made mine manual with the pull cable tho. There are other videos on locking the front differentials on GM independent front ends. I was in a bad wreck as well since all this , so it isn't as fresh in my mind now. The plan is to restore this Blazer for my youngest daughter soon tho. A no driving container puller for TCW ran all over me soon after I made this video. This wasn't the wreck that messed me up so bad , he side swiped the Blazer.
Basically saying that if you manually put the transfer case in 4x4 hi or low the front differential should lock in or out with vacuum. There is a valve from inside that sends the vacuum , as best as I can remember. As I said in the other message you can put a cable and make it manual to be fail safe. You will just hafta find the place on your vehicle to splice into the front differential cable. On the Blazer it was under the battery box.
@@coburnlowman hey I don't know why I'm just seeing your response I appreciate it just wanted to let you know I got my 4x4 back up running normal all it was was that when I put the new tccm in I didn't have a scanner to read module codes once I got a scanner that read module codes I was able to clear out my faults that were still stored from when I fryed the old one and everything came back to life and I've already been out on one trip in the woods so far and all is working well.
@@yourselfdotcom there’s an electric clutch that needs to be fed voltage from the t case computer, without that voltage it won’t send power to the front.
@@throbbinwoodofcoxley6830 Seems like one could send power to it through a switch in the cab. I've done rad fans and AC compressors that way, surely a drive axle would be roughly the same 🤷♂️
@@throbbinwoodofcoxley6830the electric clutch is for 4WAuto only. 4WHi is a direct connection to the front diff, and the front to rear axles become “as one”, no differential at all. If the actuator in the front axle does it’s job, it locks the front diff as well. So in 4WHi or 4WLo, all four wheels are locked together except the rear diff usually has the G80 diff if it’s 4WD package, definitely with the Z71. The G80 is a mechanical locking diff, not a limited slip. If one tire spins at more than 100rpm faster than the other, the difference in centrifugal force allows one of the palls to engage and lock both sides, and this remains locked until both tires spin at the same rate for some time, usually about 20-30ft of exactly straight driving. If the rear diff is locked in the mud and you are turning onto dry pavement you WILL notice it is locked until you drive straight for several yards. If the pavement is wet and you are on the throttle heavy and of course with stability control off, you will be sideways like crazy. It can have negative effects in the wet though as both rear wheels breaking loose if one starts to spin makes for a squirrelly back end. But if you’re like me you like that. It takes pretty much a no rear load, low on gas, stability off, and heavy foot with wet roads to make that happen so it’s not that risky. Also my Michelins are in excellent shape so they have good wet weather bite.
what about your front axle wheels engagement there is more to the system than the transfer case the transfer case puts the front driveshaft into play 4x4hi or 4x4 lo or awd or 2hi but there is a vacuum actuator that engages the front wheels to make the front wheels engage I wish someone would do a video of how the whole system works you do your so called fix and the and the front driveshaft will engage but just because your front shaft is spinning you still may not have 4 wheel drive. and where is the rest of the video with the transfer case shifting with your homemade solution.
bill wolfe there is a vacuum actuator that engages the front diff when you put the transfer case in 4x4. Its next to the the input. There is several videos on making the front diff manual. I bought a twist lock pull cable to engage the front end but haven't installed it. To get to the linkage , its under the battery box. I need to make a follow up.
I had put in some of the other replies that it was stolen. They blew the 4.3 and abandoned it about 30 miles from home. I assume they probably had it in second and held it down running up the interstate. Anyway when I replace the engine I'll do the manual linkage. After thinking it over I'll probably make a shifter and run a rod to it like the older ones had. Thanks for checking it out and the comment.
@@coburnlowman I'd go with a solid linkage rod also. I had 72 K5 Blazer (years ago) with all manual and it took some oomph to shift the transfer case sometimes. Teleflex plenty strong, especially short ones but linkage is solid, better.
@@coburnlowman You do know that there is still a vacuum actuator for the R front wheel drive right? That part could be easily improved by just moving the vacuum actuator closer to the front diff, otherwise you'd need another shift lever to go completely manual.
I've had several with rod linkage and zero problems. I could make a short video on the wrench mod to make it work. I used a 9/16" open end wrench and had to heat and bend it a little so it could make the full sweep of all selections. Also bent and welded a piece of rod or key stock to box in the open end so it'll not simply fall off. You can make a flat plat to bolt back in place of the shifter motor. That will keep the wrench from falling away from the side.
James Robert Hey , thanks for the comment. I haven't finished it yet because of having lower back issues. Most likely I'm gonna get the 4x4 floor lever "thingy" from an 80's model and bend my own rod back to the wrench that fits the transfer case. To respond to the road grime fouling up the cable. I have them on the old dump Truck thats been working at least 10 years. These have a rubber seal wiper with a solid rod on the ends to keep gunk out. Posibly in salt country it migbt be an issue. We live in Ga , so salt isn't much of an issue.
You can easily do this by taking the case apart and simply replacing the selector shaft with one from any year that has a shift on the floor. You do not have to change the entire t-case. This shaft is a drop in replacement - HOWEVER you must re-flash all the electronic stuff to get it to work... THAT is the hard part - and I am not sure it is possible..
I love your enthusiasm, but there's a reason they told you it won't work. Because given what you said, yes, you can manually shift the transfer case into four wheel drive. But if you don't engage the front differential, shifting the transfer case doesn't matter. So if you don't do both, you're eating your time
When you put it in 4x4 the vacuum actuator locks the front differential in. Or you can simply run a pull , and lock cable and splice in to under the battery box , and pull , and lock it in manually. I haven't made a follow up yet because the interstate was shut down , a truck behind me got impatient and tried to take to the median. He ran all over the Blazer. Anyway there are several videos on how to manually engage the front differential , or like I said the servo motor has nothing to do with the front differential , it works off of vacuum from another system.
@@coburnlowman why didn't you include that in your post? I know how to engage a front diff. But over half the people watching your video do not know this. Given the information and presentation of your video, you make it seem like the only thing you have to do is delete the encoder motor and manually shit the transfer case. When, in fact, that is only half the battle
@@trevormcdaniel490 Because that was only minutes after taking the motor off of a transfer case. I had picked up that case from a place that does engine/ transmission swaps and just driven back to the farm. I had all that crap laying around to make that video. My mind hadn't gotten that far forward in the thought process of the front differential. If you knew that it worked off a vacuum actuator , and knew you could simply tap into the front differential linkage with a manual cable , why would you be on the side of the transmission repair shops???? I did make up all the linkage to install it , and was gonna make a console for the manual shifter until some Blue Gum container puller ran all over the Blazer. Also as I said the servo motor has zero to do with the front differential linkage. Like absolutely zero , nothing , nada , nothing , not nothing touching each other in any way , no smurfs running back and forth to each other , at all , they don't communicate with each other , they contact each on a land line or cellular , or radio frequencies of any kind , the motor does what we did for decades with a lever that was full proof , until something came loose. The vacuum actuator is set from the position of placement inside the shifter. Nothing to do with the motor itself , again I'm not understanding why you are wanting to argue about a video I made to try to save us common people $$$$$ , when I think I did say I didn't know much about making videos. Since you know so much , why did you bother watching
@@coburnlowman lmao what makes you think I'm on their side? I'm simply letting you know that they were correct, given the fact that you didn't mention the front diff. Had you mentioned that, I would've been fully on board with what you were saying. I'm not telling you you're wrong... I'm simply telling you that your video lacks information for your viewers
What don't you get that the motor has zero to do with the front differential???? All I wanted to do was manual shift the thing with a lever, just like we had done since the 40's the transfer case sends the vacuum signal to the front differential. Those motors are expensive and go out when you are in a bad place. Mine left me stranded. You remind me of a great uncle that when people would explain something to that they knew because they grew up doing it he would argue about it. He would argue with road road signs about how many miles it was to certain towns. I had to pull my grandfather off of him many times in the hay fields because he refused to back down , knowing the old man was going to beat him into the ground. But as I tried, and tried to explain to to your hard head. This motor that I bypassed has zero to do with the front differential. When you shift it into 4x4 the transfer case position from inside the shifter sends vacuum to the front differential.
It worked on a make shift linkage setup. A dumbass bluegum tried to pass me in the median when the interstate was shutdown and creamed the side of the with his container.
I didn't die. A damn blue gum ran over when the interstate was shut down. He took to the median to try and go around everyone and ran over the Blazer with a shipping container. TCW will hire any dumbass watermelon eater with a pulse.
@@Thecargohustler The Blazer got ran over by a dumbass Container Jockey out of Savannah Ga. The interstate was shut down and the negro thought he could pass in the medium and ran all over my Blazer. The company was TWC. They're a bunch of idiots who hire any moron who will hold a steering wheel for a fraction of the price of any other drivers who can't pass a drug test. So if I'm a racist for not being able to stand the incompetent drivers for this bunch of losers , Thank You very much. If anyone of you pull for them , clean your house, and get a decent job!!!!!!
Being if the replacement motor is just around 100 dollars, why go through all that effort? Seems like a waste of time. The part is nowhere near 500 dollars.
They go out in the most unthinkable times. When mine went out , I was fishing way back in the woods. It rained for several hours straight. I got stuck and had to walk miles to get cell service, so a friend could fetch me out. There is nothing to fail with this manual setup. If you want to depend on a part that was designed to fail , and could leave you stranded , then that's okay. Every person with a GM 4x4 I know has had this go out on them.
@@majorkursk780 Some people have great luck with things. I have a friend who bought a new 6.0 Ford F250. It has been all over the US , and used for construction work. Never has a wrench touch it , other than preventative maintenance. I know others who have had nothing but heartache with the 6.0
@@majorkursk780 My 05 Sierra made it to about 260,000 miles before my Service 4WD drive light came on. A new encoder motor did not solve the problem. The system is full of potential fail points.
I did the same thing in the 2000 gmc. Tired of these shit actuator motors! I took off the actuator motor on my transfer case and physically turned the cog into four-wheel-drive. Then I installed a switch on my dash and ran to switch to the actuator on the front axle. So basically all I have to do is hit the switch to lock in the front hubs to be in four-wheel-drive and then shut off the switch to go back in 2 Wheel Drive 😉
Any chance you did a video or a write-up for this? I've been troubleshooting my issue for over a year with a ton of new parts, but nothing seems to work. I'm just about ready to make it a manual if there is a way to get the dash light to stay off.
