Colton, just wanted to give you an update.The thermostat arrived Sunday evening. I was stoked since I had already replaced the relay and the overload I figured this was going to be the final step. The thermostat was fine I checked the continuity before starting. Everything was a go. I put the red wire to the "C" and the other wire to the "H". I was able to snake the new capillary line back into the fridge body fairly easy. It was much easier than I had anticipated. Everything is back together. I also purchased two freezer/refridgerator thermometers so I could tweak the settings later on if I wanted. For now though I just wanted to see it cooling back down. I got everything plugged back in and the console mounted back to the fridge. The inside temp on the fridge and freezer was about 87 degrees F. I plugged it in and I heard the familar buzzing noise so I thought I was in the clear. I waited ten minutes and opened the freezer door to peek at the thermostat. Unfortunately it had not cooled a single degree. So I thought maybe it just needs time. 3 hours later I checked it again, nothing. I did a touch test on the compressor and it was really hot and still buzzing. I grabbed my multi meter and checked the AC power going into the relay (top piece of the set) it wasn't reading anywhere near 120 it was like .588 ?? I then went around to the front pulled the console back off and checked the red wire there to see how much current it was close to the same?? I double checked my multi meter settings and typically out of my outlets it reads 124v and I was no where near that. Is this thing just not getting enough power to actually do anything? IF so why is the compressor buzzing and it's still getting hot?
Hey, that is terrible. I know the feeling of throwing parts at something to have it sill not function. You’re nearly there though 🙂. I didn’t see any pretext to your previous work until now. I’m glad you got the capillary in there. What I would have tried is isolating components before replacing them. The first thing that popped into my mind was that the new thermostat is pushing far under the required voltage. Are you sure the ports you needed (from your old thermostat) are the same ones you used on the new one? You may have the knob set completely wrong on the thermostat. I would first CAREFULLY test the thermostat with it on. Use rubber gloves to be safe. Turn off the power, place an alligator clamp from your multimeter to the ground port so you only need to probe one thing and keep your hands away. Turn the power on. Probe the incoming black wire, it should be between 110-120, if not… there’s a problem with that circuit before the thermostat. Then, probe the red line coming off the thermostat. That should be very similar. If not, the thermostat is broken or set very wrong. Turn the power back off. Use a second alligator clip to clip the red wire to the red line. Then turn the power on and adjust the knob so you can see the voltage change in real time. It should be going up if it’s that low. There is also a tiny screw on most of these to do macro settings, possibly. Just be careful, turn power off when adjusting the clamps. Keep your hands away when the power is on. Use probes from a distance. This should tell you the answers for the thermostat. I bet it’s set wrong. However, if this doesn’t work, isolate the compressor to see if it’s bad. I would bypass the thermostat (video @ 13:00 mins). I would isolate the compressor and see if it works this way. Do NOT run it forever, but I would assume that you’ll feel the inside cool a bit after 20 minutes or so. This would determine that something is off with your thermostat, likely, and not the compressor. My thermostat was nearly identical across the input/output pins (116V) or so (video @ 20:20 mins). Clearly there’s an issue there. Sometimes even new thermostats are defective. If you bypass it and the compressor works, you can assume the thermostat is the cause. The outer pin of the overload protector should read the same 116V (for me) or so coming from the red wire on the thermostat. The outer pin of the overload protector should also read pretty close to the same. Therefore, the relay should do the same as well. It’s difficult to guess or assume when I’m not there, but the compressor could possibly be on its way out. I do not believe they are supposed to buzz unless a separate unit is making ice/processing water. If this fridge doesn’t have that, it may be a sign the compressor motor is going out, or gone. I’m not a fridge expert, but knocking usually indicates compressors are going bad. They are supposed to vibrate or course. However, the buzz you describe could be your issue as it’s a motor inside. However, I think the compressor is buzzing due to incorrect operating voltage, and you may be stressing components by having them partially powered. Additionally, is there a visible fan that cools the compressor in your setup? That may have a buzzing bad motor. That would also allow the compressor to overheat. If you have to, or can, maybe you can open the compressor housing (no power of course). On home systems, evaporator coils freeze and cause lack of cooling too, but I am unsure if you can check that on yours. You would just let them stay off for 24-48 hours to defrost. Unlikely, but the only other thing, if not the compressor, is the refrigerant has leaked or is low. This would cause a compressor to work overtime yet not produce. It would overheat, or overwork itself. Was the fridge damaged, exposed to elements and corroded, or anything squashed? This would cause the compressor to run hotter though and possibly burn out. I am not positive, but I believe you can solder tiny pin leaks on coolant lines for fridges. You’d have to pinpoint it first. I also am not sure where a recharge valve would be for these types. It’s possible they’re sealed. Typically, you trace leaks by adding a dye and using UV to trace it once exposed, but that’s more for automobiles and whatnot. I am unsure on fridges. Additionally, you may be able to see marks where refrigerant has escaped and dried. You would need precise measurement for systems this small because overcharging it would break it as well. It’s possible the lines running through the fridge could be blocked internally or crushed as well. I suppose you could visually inspect for areas like this. You may be able to flush the system by cutting it open I would put a very low chance of this being the case though. I would bet on a bad compressor before this. This is all conjecture though. I think you simply need to correct the power from the thermostat. You’ll sort it out soon. Good luck!
Colton, let me start by saying I really like how detailed your video was. I like that you take the time to explain each step. It turns out for me I think I'm going to have to replace the thermostat on my unit as well. Here is my problem. Mine is labeled as a WDF 25 500 . In your video you stated they don't make the 23 or 24 anymore so I assumed the 25 was gone as well. A search for this specific part turned up nothing. I was only able for find two thermostats that had WDF and not WPF markings. I'm not sure which to buy since neither is a 25? Should I opt for the highest number I can find? Also my thermostat line is inside the fridge walls an while I may be able to pull it out, I don't see an easy way to put it back in since I cannot physically see where the line ends. I can only see where it goes in. My thermostat is located in the fridge on a side wall in a narrow control box. I was able to get the box off the wall and remove the thermostat and still leaving the "thermo line lead" in the box. I was wondering if I could just buy a thermostat without the thermo line lead? I was hoping maybe it just locked into the port on the thermostat itself? If I can't find one without a thermo line lead what would you suggest since removing the line from the fridge is going to be a HUGE ordeal.
Hey Edward, thank you for the kind words. I believe you should focus on the ports that your current one has. If it's WDF 25, I'm assuming your ports in use (or the tabs you have) are the C and H. The WDF and WPF designation are the way the thermostat handles functions, ranges, and shut off... If I recall, lol. The number after might simply reference the current max or range of the thermostat, but I am not 100% on that. I do know that it isn't a concrete factor in picking a new one. You can probably select a number between 16-25 and still maintain normal function without issue. You could opt for a 25 instead of a 20, if you want. I do not think it's necessary, but that's just my opinion (at least with a fridge). You will have to play with the knob to control the voltage and see where the new optimal point is. If it's too high, it'll freeze a lot, and if it's too low, it'll stay warm. It will also take some hours (pending the fridge size) to test each setting. If you look in the description here, there was the thermostat I chose. That should be viable for your job, assuming your mounting points are the same. That being said, I would focus on finding a thermostat that matches the 3 letter designation WDF/WPF and has the MOUNTING POINTS matching. The grounding point is irrelevant, it can mount anywhere. If the thermostat I chose has the same mounting points, I would go for that. It is here amzn.to/3Aj8A48 , and the extra port will be left without connecting to anything. You can cover it if you'd like. In relation to the line on the thermostat. This is called a "capillary tube." You cannot cut it or splice it, nor buy one without it, as it's one unit. At first glance, I thought it may simply be a vacuumed sealed tube. However, I believe it is filled with a refrigerant agent or something that allows a certain level of varied expansion when heated or cooled. This is how the thermostat dictates to open/close internally. Therefore, careful cutting, splicing, and welding wouldn't work unless you could fill it with pressurized agent. Additionally, that would be far too tedious. The length of the tube matters, but for a fridge, these replacements should all suffice. Unfortunately, you must fish the line out somehow. If you tried to pull it, the reason it's probably stuck is that it's bent around something inside. Use your discretion here as too much pressure might snap something else in the fridge. Damaging the old thermostat won't matter. I would assume that any engineer would make SOMETHING to access the final point of the thermostat, and where it's looped. If it's simply dropped in there, then it should fish right out. It's very possible that it is elongated into a linear section and sent downward. If you get the old line out, even without seeing it, study it. See where the initial tube started coiling, and see where it was straightened. Take your new thermostat and follow that pattern. The tube just needs surface area and to be accessible to wear it would sense decent levels of the correct temperate inside. This is a cheap part. If you're really struggling, you could just cut the old one off. You could drill a hole in the cover (if need be) and run the new tube to a new location. Mount the thermostat in the same place and replace the cover box around the electrical. You could run the tube anywhere in the fridge as long as it's a logical area and will not be damaged by daily use. For example, you could run it along the side, back corner of the fridge. The reason they're hidden in walls and behind plates is to maintain a professional look and to avoid damage. If you and your family understand that it's delicate, cannot be crushed, and it's mounted somewhere safe, it can be used in any location. You'll just have to adjust for the different levels with the knob in order to get an ideal temp/run cycle. One thing to remember, IF you loop the coil or bend the tube around something, make sweeping, smooth bends. Do not kink or do anything abrupt that would cause the inner tube to constrict or flatten, thereby blocking the function. You could even fashion your own plastic cover for the thing if you really wanted to be safe (something like this amzn.to/3NEWVn5 ) Apologies for the lengthy comment, lol, but I would guess that a little more digging may reveal a way to find the end point. If not, it's just ran down the side without any logic. I would recommend trying your best to see how the old one was situated, or see at least how long the straight part was. Good luck!
@@fixitcolton Thank you for responding I appreciate the comments. This fridge is a Galanz and trying to find any sort of support i.e. mfg. parts or specific information , other than what you get from the owners manual has proven to be unfruitful and disappointing to say the least. My control mounts on the inside of the fridge in the refrigerator section, not up in the freezer. I was able to disassemble the the thermostat itself which allowed me to actually get the get the unit out of the fridge but still leaving the capillary line intact and connected. I did give it a tug but not much after that. At the first bit of resistance I stopped for fear of creating another problem. After seeing your response I'm glad I did. I don't want to break the line if possible. I think I'll take your advice and go back and reinspect and see if I missed something on how the line was installed and maybe I can get it out. I had already decided I was going to buy a WDF 18 since the larger scale numbers are no longer available. I'm glad you concurred with that line of thinking. I thought as well that the number (18) means I'll have to fiddle with it and tweak the settings so the fridge cools properly. So much for it being just an overload. lol.
Well, it sounds like you have an idea of where to start. I think you can always find a way around something, even if you have to adapt it yourself. I will give you one last piece of advice. I've used this exact one for several projects from interior walls to cars, and it works fairly well to get an overall perspective. It's really affordable, and it plugs into most modern phones (USB type C). Although, they may make an iphone version too, I'm not sure. I would recommend grabbing this and trying to get an idea of where the capillary leads by probing inside. You then have an extra tool for future products, lol. amzn.to/44iUugF Also, the link I sent you was a WDF 20, so that's slightly closer to 25. Although, 18 will probably do the same thing. I wish you luck with it. 🙃
Yea, that is true. There was another guy in the comments here where that's referenced, if you want a little more information on the tube, lol. Thanks for the heads up though.
My mini fridge is hardwired into my camper, and the fridge is broken. All the mini fridges i see have a regular 3 prong cord. Would you suggest running the wires to an outlet ( which i would install) , or cutting the cord off the new mini fridge and splicing them together?
That's a decision that depends on how much work someone wants to do, right? Lol... I think that if it's significantly more work for you, you could hardwire it. I'm assuming you will match or exceed the gauge wire needed to be safe, or that the circuit already supports it, etc. Personally, I'd probably install the outlet because then you could swap anything in there when, or if, you need to. Of course, I don't know the whole scenario, the age, the system. But then again, if you know you'll never use that outlet for anything and have an abundance of them already, just hardwire it with the proper connectors and save yourself the hassle.
I just got a mini fridge and the green wire that attachs to the frame which is a ground wire I'm pretty sure, is sparking I need help to figure out why and if I can just fix the wire or I need a new part or something
Yea, it's the ground. It sounds like a wire is loose and causing incorrect flow somewhere. Make sure that ground is secured down, and try and find a hot wire that is touching casing/metal, etc.
I cleaned it out and defrosted the inside. While cleaning the metal drip pan I noticed it was cracked. I put it back in and turned it back on and left the fridge empty while it started to cool. I put in a thermostat and it shows that the temperature did go down to about 35 degrees with around 20% humidity. Then it suddenly started going up and went up to between 45 to 50 degrees and about 65% humidity. I put things inside the fridge and it cooled down and has stayed between 45 to 50 and humidity 30 to 66. I know it cools down to 35 degrees, why did it suddenly spike up and not cool down anymore?
I'm really not sure. It could be a coincidence and another component is on the way out. Did you install a new thermostat? If so, was it the same specs as the old one? Was the adjustment done correctly with the knob? If it's an old thermostat, it could just be age and shifting parameters that caused it to act up. Was it a one time event or does it continue on running hotter than it did? It's hard to guess with limited info.
Mines does not keep running when I put the two wires together it still shuts off and starts back up after a couple minutes the top relay has a rattle to it could that be the problem
I'm assuming you mean bypassing the thermostat and splicing the red/black wires together to make the compressor kick on. If that's the case, and your compressor does turn on, it may be shutting off after overheating. The overload protector will be tripping, and it will disconnect the plate inside which breaks the circuit. You can verify this with alligator clamps on a multimeter, clamped on the input/output, and monitoring in real time as it occurs. I recommend getting a multimeter (this is my favorite cheap one amzn.to/3XlS52d OR you can get this one which is very similar to the one in this video amzn.to/3CPaECp ). Worst case, at least get a continuity tester like this ( amzn.to/3XkC1Oc ) which will light up if the circuit is complete. Use the multimeter/tester to verify the wires are ok from one point to another. Then test one part at a time for continuity. Do the relay first. I also recommend the multimeter over the continuity tester so you can test the resistance (ohms) on the relay as well. A rattle doesn't guarantee the relay is bad, but it could be a definite sign. You could also hear a buzzing noise sometimes if the relay is having voltage issues. Check the connections are all tight and not damaged, burned, or degraded. Alternatively, you can get a piece of wire and some electrical tape. You can bypass each component and see what works. Obviously, do not touch anything with power on. Connect it beforehand, move away, then plug in and observe. If you bypass one and it works well, it is likely that component was the culprit. Keep in mind, if you bypass the thermostat and the overload at the same time, the compressor may be damaged with excessive running, especially if it's already old. I would time the compressor and see how long it shuts off, since you say it shuts off when bypassing the thermostat. If it doesn't turn on at all with the thermostat in, then the thermostat is probably bad, damaged, or possibly set incorrectly. The thermostat will turn it on and off when temp is reached. It is supposed to cycle. The compressor isn't meant to run indefinitely. If it gets too hot, the overload should kick it off, that's expected. However, if it's turning off very rapidly, you may have another issue, as you suspect. It could even be two bad components, but that seems statistically rare. If the fridge is hot, or in a hot area, this may also contribute to the rapid shut off. You now have your mission, good luck with it! 🙃
It could be a number of things. You really need to provide more detail to speculate. If your compressor is turning, running for a sufficient amount of time, and running frequently, then check other things. Although, It could be that your thermostat is not regulating the cycles correctly anymore. Evaporator coils could be iced over causing insufficient cooling capabilities, etc. Unplugging it and letting it thaw for 1-2 days, cleaning what you can visibly see, and then checking to see if the compressor is turning on, running in decent intervals, and doesn't sound broken or struggling could be a start. You can grab a $5 multimeter and try testing the little components in the video. Each scenario will be different, good luck.
