I’ve been patiently waiting, and cautiously optimistic but I’m SOOO happy to see you’re still “in the game” with this dish. It’ll be exciting to see this come to fruition … this will be a “game changer” for me. Thanks for your fearless efforts❗️👍
Yes, I took it slow on this video to make sure things worked :) Next step is figuring out a good watertight enclosure so I can take it out and start testing! Thanks for watching!
Nice! It is really amazing - I hope Starlink leaves the functionality enabled. I wouldn't be surprised if they made it a higher tier or another package costing more. Thanks for watching!
Mike I'm super glad you were able to get this dish back up and running. Kudos to you and I look forward to see where this goes...One request though (bc I just recieved my square dish) Could you please show us folks an overview of the inside of the backing plate and motors, specifically where it might be good to drill circular holes in the back plate to dc the motor wires to take advantage of in motion roaming....I am planning on doing this when I install our dish on the folding mount on the rv roof.... and it would be great to have run through on whats and where's inside there
Welp, I tripped over the ethernet cable while testing my Starlink on my rooftop patio and cracked the edge of the housing. Some interesting info that might be of benefit to you -- the white housing has a channel that is filled with porous gray foam type adhesive. The white on the face of the dish appears to be just a vinyl sticker. The whole of the face piece is actually gray as far as I can tell, and I could most likely go around the whole unit with a putty knife and cleanly separate the two halves. So it is doable if someone wanted to disassemble it that way, although getting the initial leverage would be quite difficult. With that said, the stack height of the internal electronics is taller than the front half of the dish, so it is most likely a better solution to retain some of the back half of the housing as you have done. I'd love to do a permanent low profile mount on the top of my van, but the front face and a corner is damaged from my mistake, and water ingress is a major concern. Would need a completely new housing made. I've sent in a request for a new unit for now but am looking forward to your future videos! Let me know if you'd like to see some photos of the damage my unit sustained.
Hi Mike, How exactly were you able to "extract" your ethernet/power cable out of the pole assembly? I am interested in cutting/removing the pole, yet keeping the plug with out removing the domed back of the dish. Thoughts?
Thank you for this video! My dumb rear end thought mine was full of water from heavy rains. So I took a super sharp knife and carefully separated the back plate from the board. No water *surprise surprise*. This video gives me hope that I can put it back together 😂
Mike awesome video - I did a semi DIY conversion - used the Starmounts 12V all -in-one . At first couldn't get it working as I was only using a 5 amp fuse to the hot side of the 12v supply . Then checked w Starmount and learned they specify using a 10amp - I had it working for a couple of days and I believe that I let it plugged in AND switched on when parking under my home carport. Is this something that would "fry" any component ? Now every time I turn on the 10a fuse pops almost immediately .
Hey Mike great job on the walk through. I'm having a issue finding a short, same power supply dropping but I'm not finding the short. Think you could help me out with some questions?
Awesome video, Mike! I am so glad that it's alive again. I got a little carried away with the Star Trek talk last time, I hope that you didn't mind too much. After I read "It's dead, Jim", I just lost myself in memories of seasons long ago.
Another great informative video. Currently I have my first gen on top of my RV on swivel mount that I use to stow it when I'm driving. I would love to be able to mount it flush to the roof and not have to crawl up on the roof each time I want to relocate. I'm hoping that starlink will soon come out with a mobile antenna.
Yeah, I figure they'll have to come out with a purpose-built unit. It's just such a great use case! Hopefully something designed for low power consumption as well, 12V or similar. Thanks for watching!
I ran over my Starlink antenna with my truck today and broke the gear mechanisms, I am able to still connect my Starlink by leaning it up against a stool at the approximate angle it was before. I’m gonna order a replacement antenna from Starlink, so I am going to do a teardown of my broken Starlink Antenna and I’m going to see if I can 3-D print some new gears so I can reuse this antenna. As I saw in your video, splitting the shell will be the challenge, I will use a dremel, slowly by hand, I don’t want to have to fix caps. I will also be working on a 3d printed enclosure. Larry
Love what you do and great video. I just wish there was an update and you had the time to respond to comments in a timely manner. It’s 6 months since your last comment. Hi from New Zealand :-)
Hi Mike, I have a question on the Ethernet cord. Where it connects to the board about 6 inches up is a (round thing) that the cord goes through. I cut that out and just ran the Ethernet cable straight to the router. I now don’t have a signal to the router. Do I need the (round thing) and if so where would I find a replacement. And do you think I hurt anything on the board?
Fun to watch! Can you give me the coordinates of the motor and Ethernet connectors in inches? I would like to keep the original shell intact so I can use the dish in flat or original configuration setup. Thanks!
You THINK you voided the warranty? I’d say you voided it as soon as you ripped into it!! Not a big deal considering your end goal! Looks good! Good luck!
I love the production value with your videos! great work. Wind recently knocked my Starlink off my roof and broke the shaft/motor assembly, the board works fine and i still get strong connection when I prop it up. do you think if I used a waterproof hard case (Pelican, Skb etc..) that it could send a signal through the case? or would that not be possible? thanks for your help!
Do you know if there is wifi off the dish itself. I see you mention Ethernet connection but I was wondering if you knew if it had a wireless adapter on the dish?
You mentioned linking the 3D model. Any chance you have it available? Even just the footprint with the support locations you showed in the video would be super helpful. Trying to reverse engineer the dimensions from the perspective drawing is going a little slow. 😆
Mike, at 4:09 in the video you mention that some people have a problem with the connection seating properly. I am having that issue. It seems to seat and I can’t really get it in further, but Starlink complains that it’s not connected. Any advice on what I can do to seat it properly? Are there certain known manufacturing defects that require replacement?
Hi Mike, what does the package say on the 16 relatively evenly spaced STMicro chips on the PCB? I think you referred to these as "signal chips" in a previous video. You also noted the smaller chips all over the board to be the phase shifters - do you know the manufacturer? I would appreciate any more details that you have on these chips. I'm very interested in the supply chain for these user terminals. Thanks in advance!
I have a dead antenna ,customer came back after winter break and his dish was frozen solid ,tried to get going and no joy. Starlink wont replace as they say it is storm damage but would love to know what happened to it ,dont have anyone in UK that could do an diagnostic on it ,could send to you if interested
How would you know that the capacitor has the same specs is the same as the ruined ones? My limited understanding is for filtering they use different sizes to catch different transients. Also, THANK YOU for doing this, I bought the v3 dishy and want to mount it to the roof of a van I'm building.
Great video Mike! I want to mount my rectangular dish to the top of my motorhome pointing straight up and then when I am at home would like to move it to the roof of my RV cover. While on the RV I think I would need to disable the motor. Then when parked under the RV cover be able to reconnect the motor. Here's my ask. Can you measure where I would need to drill a 2" hole in the back to be able to get to the motor disconnect. I could drill a hole and unplug the motor then later re-plug it in using a water proof plug to cover the access hole in the back panel.
I've been thinking of buying a Solar generator to use Starlink on the go. Any suggestions what else I can use for Mobile starlink. Or how to go mobile in my vehicle
Yeah, GREAT question! I've been thinking the same thing myself. What I'm planning on doing is having the enclosure milled out of aluminum. I'm thinking of including in the design small "fingers" from the enclosure down to the chips (and anything that gets hot) with a small gap for thermal paste between them. This would turn the aluminum enclosure into a large heat sink that I'm hoping would be enough to remove the heat even in hot outdoor environments. This is all just ideas at this point - I'm not sure how hot it will get with the smaller-volume enclosure, but definitely something on my mind as well. Thanks for the great question!
Mike, this EE felt you had only 5% chance of repairing the pcb w/o a schematic. Did you cut any traces too? What makes you think the value of damaged capacitor is the same as another capacitor? Too bad you can’t reach out to someone who is familiar with the circuitry. Based on your luck, I recommend playing the lottery. Anxious for next video in this series. Great job!
I was definitely "lucky" on where I damaged the PCB. In the output stage of the power supplies, each has a bank of filter capacitors in parallel between the power supply output and ground. So you're right that they COULD be different values, but in this type of configuration effectively they're just trying to pack as much capacitance as possible into the given board real estate. There wouldn't be much point to use different values for each. There are probably thousands of other components that if I had damaged them I would be out of luck :) No need to cut or bridge any traces since I was just removing some of the parallel capacitors that were damaged. Just curious: I've been thinking of starting some live streaming to answer this type of question, that's not "big" enough to need a separate video, but still potentially interesting to many viewers. Do you think you'd find that format interesting? Mixed in with my regular videos? Thanks for watching!
@@MikeOnSpace MIke, I think there are some subscribers interested & able to participate in live streaming. But, like me and many others, have work, family commitments, routine acivities with friends, etc. so cannot participate. If you live stream, most likely I'll only get to see recording.
I think the obstruction map updates over a 24 hour cycle. I'm not sure but I think if there's no actual obstruction that it should eventually clear. How long has it been there so far? Thanks for watching!
I had a hail storm come through and now i loose signal from about 12 noon to 5 pm. Then it starts working again. I wonder if it damaged my board somehow. I didn’t have this problem before. I wonder if theres anyone who repairs them?
@@OffGridAussiePrepper lol, yeah, this one was harder since I had to film it in many parts over a few days because I didn't know if the fix would work or not until I'd tested it :)
I bet every Tesla roof will soon have an antenna integrated with the option to subscribe to a SpaceX plan. This will be the end of data cap/throttle for cell data service and on top you won’t be limited by a cell tower that these cell companies don’t want to place in rural spots or in remote location
Yup! Although my soldering skills are a bit rusty :) I spend a lot of time on software these days - it's fun to spend some time with some circuit boards! Thanks for watching!
@@MikeOnSpace I'm in a very similar boat, although I mostly do mechanical and software engineering now. I have a CNC mill and might be able to help with this project... assuming I can fixture a block big enough. Could also start with 3D printing the mount in pieces on some FDM printers or pay for a one-piece off a larger printer. I'm guessing metal for heat dissipation really isn't necessary as the wattage is pretty low AND the original mount wasn't metal.
Interesting video but these "Power Supply" Chips are Synchronous Buck Converter. I don't want to be picky but it just triggerd me every time you said "Power Supply" Chip.
I know - I stumbled over it constantly :) My channel has a "split" audience where many are deeply technical and DO care about the details of them being synchronous buck converters, but many just want to hear about Starlink stuff. If I could do a "poll" of you as someone who DOES care: I've been thinking about starting to do some live streams that would lean more to the technical side, to talk about stuff that might not be as interesting to the broader audience, but still really interesting to those interested in the technical details, etc. Do you think that format would be interesting? Along with my regular videos? Thanks for watching!
@@MikeOnSpace I barely know the difference between a capacitor & resistor but am still fascinated by the work you are doing on this project. I vote for more tech details😀
