Water really helps for the suction cup, and after you get it to stick, you can slide it over the bends -- the suction will keep it formed against the metal.
And maybe a couple of drops of dish soap in the water. Spray foam window cleaner and a clean rag work well with the initial cleaning of the panel. Go over the dent with some paint thinner or alcohol lightly. Paint thinner/acetone can soften most paints if exposed long enough.
Thanks for this demonstration. A neighbor across the street backed into my car, which was parked on the street, while they had a bicycle rack on the back of their car. It dented front and rear doors, but it looks worse than it is: power windows still work, no change in gaps around the doors, etc. I got a couple estimates, the least expensive being $1,300 and so I've been considering trying to fix it myself. Your video gives me some hope/confidence that I might be able to get mine to 95% as well. Cheers!
@@pugdad1248 I didn't need to confront them. When the did it, they came knocking on my door to tell me that they did it. My comment wasn't so much a complaint about the neighbor; it was about my desire to learn to do this kind of work well enough to fix my own door.
Great no nonsense video, direct and informative without the fluff. Just a few observations. If you find your glue not popping off and is stuck on the car, or tool put some isopropol alcohol in a spray bottle and a couple of quick sprays will have the glue peeling off. Let the area dry before applying additional glue or it won't stick very well. Always start with a clean, dry surface or your dent tab and car surface. Hopefully you know your cars history and whether or not it has been repainted in the area you are glue pulling. If you're not sure inspect the area carefully for signs of a previous repair. Look closely at the paint, compare it to the adjacent panels, are there imperfections, fish eyes (little craters in the clear coat), can you see faint sanding lines, does the clear coat finish have a different slightly different sheen, or surface appearance? These are tell tale signs of a previous repair. Finally if you have access to the interior side of the dent through the trunk in this instant, check to see if it looks repaired. If there is any question and you think the area has been repaired and repainted, stop and resist the temptation of getting your can opener out unless you have a fishing trip planned and need the worms. Call a professional dent remover at this point. The glue pulling system is useful with oem ;paint only (original factory paint) as this will quite probably pull the paint off a previously painted area. The glue sticks are made with different strengths for additional pull and can be ordered from Amazon as well as additional tabs as these will break. Do not try using hot boiling water before using tabs, it's dangerous and someone will get injured. Good luck, it takes practice all depends on how much time you put into it. If you feel your time is more valuable just call a dent guy, it's not that much more when you add the cost of all this equipment and your time.
That's pretty good, I'm glad to see I'm not the only one whose "dent pulls" work out about the way your video shows... Plainly speaking pulling most dents is not as easy as most videos show it to be, none will ever be like it never happened, but with time and patience it can end up looking pretty decent without spending all sorts of money.
Dude...I"M the one who fixed your dent while you were sleeping. I wanted to practice dent repair on someone ELSE'S car before working on my own. I won't apologize after I did a great job.
Nice video, thanks for sharing. Just one note (not to be an internet dweeb but...) once you wipe an area with acetone to clean it you DO NOT want to then touch it before using the glue puller. Even the very small amount of oil on your fingers can reduce the adhesion strength of the glue. Just clean it and apply the hot glue and puller for best results.
This weekend there was a guy driving around and saw the dent on my car ,he asked me if I wanted to get it fixed , I said how much ? He said $200 , I said no thank you lol
I think you did a fabulous job especially when you got in the trunk and pushed. It straightened the whole dented in area along the trim which made all the difference in being able to do your smoothing. The glue and pop out equipment rocks!
Bozi, thank you so much. I really appreciate the tips and step-by-step. I have some smaller dents to pull out and you've given me the confidence to do it!
Heat and dry ice works on door dings and hail damage. That large a dent needs a lot more heat and cold change, but you can also push doing it to help move the metal back into its formed shape. When I was a kid I used to watch guys fix cars at a body shop, they added lead over the dents, you didnt try to bend that metal back into shape you couldnt it was way to thick. That was say 1965?
Excellent video! Patience, persistence and Harbor Frieght affordable tool did the trick! Fortunate location for dent but not an easy dent at all featured in the majority of RU-vid videos I've watched so Thank you so much for sharing this!
You done a great job, I didn't even know there were any tools like you used. I will have to purchase myself some of these auto body repair tools. Thank you for the video.
When you heat the panel and then use the compressed air it was acting as a coolant , therefore tightening / shrinking the metal . When I couldn't get a replacement part I would use an oxyacetylene torch to shrink the damaged panel .
I tried pushing and pulling a bad dent on my car. Had to fill and paint in the end. For interest here is my car fix: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rwUG-kxHIJE.html
Great video! That last tool was great! I would have used a piece of 2 x 4 on the inside to hammer out the big stuff.....the hit would be spread out over a larger area and not put hammer dings in metal.
Jim McDiarmid Dad does not always know everything that is going on, and it is better for his health and sanity that he does not know. Knowing too much can cause too much headache, heartache or both. The thing to remember is "If it happened, it was meant to happen" It's called FATE. We must accept it, be it good or bad. And in the matter you mention, maybe it was not Mom's fault, and mom was very upset over it. You did a great job for your mom who did a great job in raising a good son. I take my hat off to you Mr, McDiarmid . 5 days ago (edited) COMMENT REFERENCE: Jim McDiarmid.2019071620929
Just one comment, and don't take it personally, but hot melt glue does not dry, it cools. As others said below, great job without the annoying background music. Smaller glue on pieces can be purchased which focus more pulling power in a smaller area to pull right in the center of small dents such as hail impacts. Good job!
Blow dryer is pretty good , but a hot air gun from Harbor freight for about $8 puts out a LOT more heat and does a great job with just a paddle to push simple dents like that out easily.
I have watched a guy at a Chevy dealer removing dint and dings from transported cars and he makes them look new with the hot glue puller that you used only he had a huge assortment of the glue on pulling devices from tiny to a couple inches
"We are going to take the acetone, and use it to clean all or the dirt and oil from the area, and then I will rub my fingers all over the area that we just de-oiled with the acetone, so that I re-oil the area with the natural oils in my skin, and then I am going to make sure there is also a good layer of skin oil on the bridge tool surface that I will be attaching to the just re-oiled part of the car panel.... and we are done" LOL. Seriously, really nice job. Thanks for the great vid. Very useful. Liked and subscribed.
I would not hit the area multiple times. Reverse the impact procedure, One Long slow Gentle push from behind the panel . Try a Flat smooth Small block of wood, Pushed by a car jack Gently & slowly. Support the Jack against a Solid Part of the car in the Boot / Trunk, Apply pressure from the jack to a long length of wood to Push the small flat wood & the Dent Outwards Slowly & gently in one Slow Push. Once Bent, Metal has the tendency to stretch, Less Contact is Always better. ALSO Try to find the point of Impact, Then push just in that same place, The surrounding Dent should follow back to body shape. The car that HIT it did not hit it 10 times, = Just once in one smooth push, Hence Reverse the impact. It was only hit in one contact point, all the surrounding area is The Stretching motion of that impact. Don't try to KICK it out, BUT You Could Brace yourself & put your Foot / Feet against the dent in the same slow gentle Motion. If You can get behind the Dent properly.
I need help from you guys I wish I could show you the picture of what happened to my car it dented it quarter panel and the edge of the bumper quarter panel. I need advice I'm determined I going to fix this because I don't have the money to bring it to a shop. It's a 2000 Camry I took really good care of it and this psychotic dude across the street purposely run into my car parked in front of my housee.
So he had a truck so I have a dent up on the quarter panel and then at the bumper area it's a pretty deep dent easily accessible to. I've had this car for 18 years and this nut job across the street moves in and decides he don't like where I parked my car out front of my own home of 27 years. He's 37 and just moved shacked up with the girl across the street for the last 5 years. He's threatening to do this to me the past and then I finally did it but he is a felon because he ended up robbing a gas station so he's on probation. I didn't even know what happened. He called the cops because if he didn't it would have been leaving the scene of an accident. And he would have violated his probation. The insurance company wanted total my car. I've paid $30,000 for the car. It only has 140,000 miles on it and I'm determined 2 get this car to look like brand new again. The pay jobs 18 years old cuz of course there's some scratches and little things here and there and there's a little bit of rust around the wheel well. But I've been looking up how to do it and how to repair it and I believe I could do it
Funny comments about the 'free foot', but it's also important to remember that not all dents will be in a panel where you can get that free foot behind it, so these techniques are useful. On the suction puller, some soapy water will often help that seal better, where small microvariances in the surface flatness are letting air leak. Plus it will let you slide the puller a bit and reposition it without releasing it all the way and putting it down somewhere else, for better control of where you're pulling, 'finding' the beginning of a curve where it will leak, etc. Won't solve all dent-related leakage, but it will for some, and anyway it can't hurt to try. And as others have said, address the crowns first, especially where it looks like a crease was starting to form. Crowns are where the metal is stretched the most, so reverse those first (or as one commenter said, 'release its stored energy') by heating (expanding) the crown and cooling (shrinking) the lower flat area, multiple times. You don't have to heat the paint to near-blistering, nor freeze it to near-cracking -- small, incremental measures are always best (you don't want to create new problems!). There will be a lot less of the dent remaining to fix after that. And take care to not make a new dent in a different spot with the foot method or the bridge puller. Incremental measures are also key with something like this, not 'going as far or further back the other way', which only serves to stretch the metal more and cause waviness that will 'never' come out (unless by a professional). And regarding the little round white plastic tool that came with the bridge puller, the concept there is what body men call a 'dolly block', of which a professional might have several different sizes and shapes with different curves and lines, made from chunky blocks of mirror-polished stainless steel, along with various shaped peening hammers. The DIYer can get a lot of this same benefit with a chunk of 2x4 wrapped in a clean soft cloth to protect the finish, then hammer the block to flatten a proud bit, or hammer the panel from the inside against the block on the outside for a low bit. But overall, good novice-level demo of some readily available and cost-effective options out there!
actually through the trunk, pull trunk liner out and slowly work dent out starting at point of impact first by pushing on it and or gently tap on back side with blunt or rounded object and use suction cup to help pull.., that would work better than a suction cup alone on outside...same with bumper, heat up with hair dryer and push from back side with hammer handle or other blunt tool. keep a bottle of water handy and cool plastic as you are holding out on dent...repeat until dent is out.. if car has been repainted at any point DO NOT use hot glue, it will pull paint from car
RE: hit in the same spot 3 times. Reminds me of a car I had years ago....a 1993 olds cutlass . In the course of one year the following happened THREE TIMES. (1) Car in front of me stops at a stop sign. (2) I am sufficient car lengths behind him. (3) For reasons only known to the drivers they decided to throw it into reverse (without looking behind them) and back up and ram my front bumper. Luckily this was a car built before "air bags"....didn't really cause much damage in each case........but THREE TIMES IN ONE YEAR?????? Has never happened again since.
Had a '79 4-door Accord a while ago. Unluckiest Honda ever. Hit 3-times in rear in a week. Sunday) Was hit and run in right rear corner while parked, damaging corner of bumper and quarter panel. Tuesday) Was in a right turn lane. I stopped for pedestrian in crosswalk. Car behind me had planned to continue going straight and ran into my rear bumper. Friday night) Was waiting at a red light. A drunk driver came up fast from behind and slammed on his brakes, hitting my rear bumper and partially submarining under the bumper, damaging my already damaged bumper, denting the valence panel underneath, and crinkling my muffler. Saturday) Girlfriend said car was cursed and told me to sell it immediately.
Thanks for this video bro. I side swiped one of those goddamn support beams on a covered parking lot shade structure thing. I went to Harbpr Freight earlier today before I saw this video and got the same orange dent suction cup, and I also got the one with two cups, which was only like $8. I saw the smaller kit but I didn’t have enough cash at the moment. I was reading reviews of a suction cup thing they had at Autozone and it was like 70% one-star ratings, so I was feeling discouraged, but you’ve given me hope. I drive for a living, and the only things I’ve ever hit are those effing beams, and the concrete barrier around a streetlight in a parking lot. Both stationary, still managed to hit both . Pathetic. F my life.
I drive an Aveo hatchback full of hail dents, when I was younger I would have been embarrassed but I'm over 40 and I don't care because it's saving me a ton of money in gas, maintenance, cleaning, insurance, parking space :).
You don't need the hair dryer and compressed air on metal. That's just for plastic bumpers. since the plastic has memory and the head helps it be more plyable. Your hair dryer did nothing.
Excellent job!! I was really impressed. I've watched a lot of pros use expensive dodads and fancy stuff. But the low bidget way is the way to go initially. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for this great video. Just went along nice and smooth. The car came out pretty darn good and will look even better when you are finished. Anything to save money these days. It all helps. Thanks again.
If you opened the bootlid (trunk for our USofA friends)and located the crease at the angle profile and place a bolster(or a piece of wood) on it and tap it with a heavy hammer, most of it will pop out and the bumper mount would be in the correct position then put a heater on it and come back later it will be like new can be done with mouth in closed position
The best method is only check inside to push using half mon dolly and slowly slapping out side using hammer or bended file..it is a hundred percent result
Thanks for the great tips and evaluation of products. I have an easy bump compared to yours. I am leaning towards Harbor Freight and getting the needed arsenal. If none of it works, then it stays where it is.
I've seen on RU-vid that people insert a basket ball ( without air ) under the dent then inflate the basket ball, and the dent pop-up back to original position over 90%. Of course, there were some follow-up work to fix / repair the dent ....
How about an actual heat gun instead of the hair dryer? I bet it would have worked on the first try with a heat gun. Yeah, you got to be careful of heating the clear coat and paint.
Funny, that was my first thought to, but then I remembered that there is only so much heat you can get out of a 10 amp circuit, meaning that "I think" a hair dryer and a heat gun both emit about the same amount of heat don't they? The heat gun focused on a smaller spot. Let me know if I have that wrong.
Thanks for video, guessing both pieces of this rear quarter panel is plastic or composite, good to know the hair dryer method, I have a heat gun so that should work.
I tried the Harbor Freight dent kit on a steel garage door and it absolutely failed in that application. As you tighten the bridge the anchor just pulls away from the surface and the dent doesn't budge. So, this appears to only work for automotive applications.
A block of wood helps prevent high spots like you got on the top area also the sucker puller would have worked better on unheated body as the rubber would be firmer surely?
I am laughing. In 1976, I used a "Hammer" dent puller on a 1972 Impala. In those days, the metal was thicker. You had to drill tiny holes in the car body and thread the dent puller shaft into the center of the dent. Then, using the sliding hammer on the shaft literally hammer the dent out. Then you were left with a bunch of screw holes in the body of the car (The driver door) in my case. So, you still had to do body work!!!! Fill the holes; smooth the are and repaint. Not very professional then if you did not have body repair skills.
Does the heat simply provide the paint to be come flexible so it doesnt crack and flake off . Understand on plastic the cooling and heat can make the damage a little bit pliable , but steel ... !!! MMMmmmm
Take the fender off and place it on a bag full of sand . Then find proper weight hammer and a block of wood and hammer away on the inside of fender . Don't pound too hard or you will stretch the metal too much . Check and look and keep the contour in check as you go along . There is probably an easier way but I don't know any others . He popped it out with his foot and it worked . I am glad I watched the vedeo.
If he's going to rub the area that was just cleaned with acetone with his fingers I wish he'd use nitrile gloves to keep oils from his fingers from contaminating the work area.
You should start arround the edges of the dent and pull the easiest parts first. When you get to the deepest part of the dent it will not be as difficult to pull and there will be less chance of kinking the metal.
I just used a hammer inside the trunk and gently (but firmly) popped it right out. Looked good as new. Customer had a bunch of kids and wife in the car...I couldn’t charge him anything. Good deed for the day 🤗
The best way that always works is if you can get behind the dent you can push it back in popping it back in place. The impact area will always be damaged with the paint but you can still get the panel pretty straight or at least make it look better. That puller only works on small dents same with the heat trick.
