Fixing A Stihl Trimmer That Doesn't Always Stay Running. 

I always leave fuel in my stuff over winter specifically so I don't have problems. The trick is, when you run something out of fuel there's still a little bit in the carb. You'll never get every drop out. That little bit gets cruddy way faster than a lot of fuel would, causing problems. I leave fuel in everything and then go start it and run them a few minutes once a month in the off season.

Had a stihl km 90r since the 4 mix engine came out in 2006 i think, still use it daily now i adjust the valves yearly, throttle cable and clean out the carb also do general maintenance bits still running solid just replace the odd wear and tear bits and she keeps on going 👍

thanks home garage perfect timing i ve been asked to work on the excact same engine thers is fuel coming out from around the push rods now i will check the valve lash many thanks for the upload 👍

Yes, I've always left fuel in the tank and carb during winter storage. I only use the Stihl canned fuel as recommended by my Stihl dealer. No issues since 2018 on my FS 38. 😊

I usually do let it run out of fuel when storing for winter but I forgot to do that on two chainsaws I have. They hadn’t been used for 5 years, since 2017 😂. What I noticed was the gas had all but evaporated leaving an oily residue but believe it or not I added fresh fuel & they cranked & ran fine thankfully! Maybe it was just luck idk😃

See, you're a celebrity now and this is why I always have a spare. I never have understood why Stihl put valves in a 2-cycl;e but I guess they work all right but I hate the sound of them. I would've ordered the kit because I have a dealer 1/2 mile away and used the spare. And I usually left the trimmers with gas in them because our winters are pretty short. And when the 4-mix rigs came out there were a PILE of cam gears and magnetos replaces under warranty. My pal that now has his own shop was running the shop at the dealers and I saw him regularly and phoned even more. Good fix and Thanks!

You should do a detailed video on how to rebuild and replace the clutches in these trimmers.

My favorite trimmer

I realize you do this in part for content as well as being an awesome guy in general. When someone I don't know directly wants help like this I need them to make an initial effort - ie. They bring it to me or when I'm at the mutual friends house anyway etc. Often the fix is less than half an hour, driving is an expense/risk and takes additional time. Something to consider..

Nice video! But just so you know, you lost the washer that goes between the screw and the valve cover

it's like the Chris Fix for garden gear. Good stuff.

I have the very same model. I looked at the tag underneath and it's a 2009, I paid quite a bit for it new but I'd say it's pretty stout. It still handles thick weeds and brush just fine. Not a throw away machine

Given up using E5/E10 petrol,so much grief, gone over to using Alkylate Petrol, Aspen 2 (2 stroke) & Aspen 4 (4 stroke) leave it in all winter, no issues with starting in the spring.

No, I warm it up, drain the fuel and run it at idle until it stops. I just got through bringing my Husqvarna 28L out of storage since last October (10 months) and it ran fine when filled with fresh fuel and topping off the gear drive with new grease. I use Snapper#2 grease in the cutting head. I also hang my trimmer up in the shop by its cutting head, so any extra grease will lube the drive shaft during storage.

Hi I have the big brother to this KM-130 R Same issue Thanks for the video

yes I leave fuel in and I fully regret it now because I've had an Echo edger that hasn't worked for years (won't start at all so I'm trying to figure this out now) and a Stihl trimmer that I commented in a video of yours recently that I had to buy the adjustment tools for and trying to figure that out today as well lol

hello i was wondering can i replace a 18 inch bar and new chain with a 16 inch

I always found these problems being a carbretter diaphragms, best just to buy a carb as I've done this on all the 2 stroke garden tools I buy, only buy tools thay are broke Refix and give them away, there are only a few things to know but won't spoil people's video regards colin from croydon surrey 👍👌👏

If I am not going to use my trimmer for 2 or more months then I drain the fuel and run it dry. I also use nonethanol fuel as a second option. I do wonder why that carburetor was leaking. Makes me wonder if it had a hairline crack someplace. Thanks for the videos.

I have an old Briggs and Stratton powered lawnmower, I never drain that and it always starts, even first start of the spring. Be a real pain to drain it. My Honda mower I turn the fuel off and run it til it stops and my Honda four stroke trimmer gets carefully emptied.

What type of maintenance that trimmer needs

Here in my country you need your chainsaw all year along, your trimmer and mower 8 months and if you have a water jet, on gas, you need it 10 months a year.

Have to add stabil to fuel during winter

Thanks I like videos like this it helps me out a lot

For the clutch issue, I’d rather that than no clutch at all, and until I saw this video, I never knew these stihls had a throttle lock on them. Is that all of them or just the ones with tht trigger setup?

I have fuel always in the tank. Using the Motomix from Stihl.

I have stihl fs100, it looks like its the same model as in the video. I replaced the carburetor but when i am lowering the idle it turns off when its really high rpm, can you tell some reasons why it does that?

I have a FS 38 Stihl just had new fuel lines carburetor and spark plug an cleaned the exhaust filter and mine is bogging down

I have a Stihl fs80, replaced the carb, fuel lines, fuel filter and plug, she runs but only if i self prime ( take plug out and pour little fuel down ) and seems to not want to adjust to a low idle, any idea of why the new carb wouldnt idle down? or cold start even if the primer bulb fulls and returns?

Where do you buy the carbs?

I have this trimmer, but with the bike handlebar. it runs for a few minutes but dies and wont start again for a long time. my local Stihl dealer that i bought it from changed the carburetor, but it didn't fix the problem. do you have any advice for a fix?

hey i adjusted the carb screws for a bolens 110 i think, is there anything i should wary about?

How was it fixing the carb

also, an old sthil i have wont start and the exaust gets wet when pulling on the rope

i had the issue also i put high grade fuel in it works great use high grade gas in it

Or your valve cover gasket is leaking it will not run

Just for a fyi. Valve clearance on a 4mix engine is .010

When’s the toolbox vid coming?

What if your fuel is meant to be used for a while

Always check gas tank fuel line l...

The first time i ran my fs45 dry, it never started again.....inside the carb was failed, maybe coincidence

Run ethanol free fuel. A little seafoam and never had to drain the tank for the winter. Ethanol eats the diaphragms and hoses not to mention it's hygroscopic.

Awesome video!!👍👍

You never leave fuel in your trimmer edger weed wacker lawn mower or anything during winter storage I guess it's not as bad as an idea if you buy the steel oil though since it has stabilizer in it but the answer is no because if you don't you're going to be taking the carburetor apart and who likes that and there's no real way to fix two stroke carbs because of the way they're set up with a lawn mower carb only got to do is make sure the Jets clear but you need to fix the most wonderful thing in the whole wide world to fix 2003 steel blower that thing was hell to fix I got it to run I got it to work the best it will but it runs poorly because the engines internally not good so I replaced it with a brand new steel it makes so much more power and it's so much quieter because in order to get the carburetor off you have to take the muffler off on the steel blower and then the entire thing apart beside that and to the end of my sanity when I fix that too

ty for the help

Good job

just letting you know that you forgot to put the copper washer back on the valve cover screw.

How can you prevent normal engine wear is there a way?

Genuine carbs are way more expensive than a rebuild kit. Cheap chinese junk is cheaper but at what cost?

I always drain my equipment out because I am the same way I don't want to buy another carb if I don't have to

Replace the carburetor entirely. It’s like $15 new on Amazon

Didn't know Stihl made a 4 cycle

I wonder what the grass around his house thinks : - Oh god , here he comes again , showing off his murder machines. Making them better and stronger. While explaining what they are here for ... - Oh well , i guess its my time to be a "demonstration" , goodby cruel world ... - Wait , am i supposed to watch him prepare my haircut ?

Sorry I’m late to the party someone tried to hack my account and google came in clutch for once

So when you say "new" carb is easier and cheaper than a rebuild kit, you mean a cheap Chinese knock off piece of crap that needs to be modified to fit. Hence, the parts changer "mechanics" these days. It is by far just as easy and much better in the long run for the customer, to get the proper rebuild kit and use an ultrasonic cleaner to fix the problem. The OEM carbs will last indefinetly when the "soft" parts are changed when needed. It was likely the needle seat that was degraded, or the pumping diaphragm was degraded and not sealing. The diaphragm you decided not to replace.

Bottom line, Stihl is a rubbish expensive brand. Obviously their junk is of poor design..I have a FS38 with a new carburettor and is playing up enormously. A pain in the arse😢

Thank you home garage. I appreciate this video of the Stihl trimmers. By the way to answer your question I leave my fuel in my equipment tanks because I have access to ethanol free gas and I always put a stabilizer in there. It does work.

You made the right choice buying a new carb, those zama carbs used on Stihl trimmers always have issues with the check valve assembly under the purge bulb, either one or both check valves get stuck open which causes the bulb to stop working or it does suck up fuel but when you press it some fuel returns into the carb and squirts into the throat,

these trimmers never die they are top quality! thanks for the show!!!! i really enjoy your content!!!! i have a stihl fs38 that been going for almost 10 seasons now dirty and covered and 2 stroke oil always fires up on the 3rd of 4th pull when its cold though she runs good!!!!!!! you have inspired me to not throw stuff out or take it ta a mechanic but to always try and fix it myself cheers

I have a FS 90 4-mix, great trimmer. It is a 2008 and still running strong with lots of low end power and torque.

I dont run mine dry because l am able to run my equipment year round doing different tasks. And l use ethonal free gas with either Amsoil saber or echo red armor, and both claim to stabilize the fuel. And if l dont need to use a piece of equipment l still start it and run it every few weeks to avoid issues. Now if l were to not touch a piece of equipment for months l would run it dry and spray some wd40 in the carb to prevent any moisture from causing rust and on the metering diaphragm to keep it from drying out.

You're a brave man to modify that aftermarket carb before knowing that it works and isn't junk that needs to be returned. It's fitment issues like this that have me preferring OEM carbs. In hindsight, I would have dropped the gas tank before permanently altering the new carb to get around the clearance issue.

I think you may have just helped me to fix My Stihl trimmer, i think mines a bit Newer than this one for sure...Lately Ive been finding the Air Filter soaked in fuel, it may be Leaking just like this one . Ill have to investigate further but mine will run but i have to fiddle with the choke almost like this but not As bad .. You may have just saved me a pile of money, time and aggro . Cheers mate .

Hey bro cool video. I must admit I'm guilty of leaving fuel in my equipment sometimes depending on how many days it will take me to cut my yard but I always try my best to drain the fuel and run it dry before I store it away until I need it cut my yard again.

I use Stabil fuel conditioner in the gas. Engines start right up after winter storage.

Mine get used during the winter in NZ but it might sit still for a couple of months. Never have removed the fuel on any. I did find fuel glue in dads old blue homelite carb. That had been in storage for years. Still have it and goes like a gem every 6months. Can't get it serviced cos it doesn't have a Brake bar so I gotta DIY.

You need a clutch spring

Fuel left in always with fuel preservative added Full tank

Your volume is way way to low. Great video nonetheless.

Hippa makes great carb kits. I just repaired an FS70 line trimmer. It. Came with new fuel lines, spark plug, air cleaner, priming bulbs etc, all for about 19 dollars. Everything fit and the carb ran perfectly, with its factory settings. I only had to decrease the idle. It had been to the stihl dealer three times, and the customer was charged 120, each time, and they never fixed it. The last time they told him to throw it away, if it didn’t work. They didn’t even change the spark plug, which was rusty and spent, and didn’t check the fuel line, that was ripped inside the tank. I sent the customer back to the shop to the shop with the ripped fuel line, to see if they would give him some of his money back. They said, when they fixed it the first time, there was a 1 year warranty in the repair. I tested the trimmer on my own property, for two hours, and it runs perfectly.

These videos are the best to watch

Do you have a video on how to adjust valve covers? And how did you know what spacer to use for that trimmer?

zama carbs used on Stihl trimmers always have issues with the check valve assembly under the purge bulb . is not the best machine. i have dolmar 15 year no pro. start 1 pull . this carb and the aftermarket carb 😯😯😯😥 never buy stihl . definitely is not fuel problem

I've been leaving fuel in my Trimmer and blower over winter. I do use premium gas and fuel stabilizer. with that said, I'm watching your video because my 6 year old Stihl trimmer is running rough.

btw small nit : You missed a washer on the rocker arm cap , it fell down (2:24) when you opened it and you put it back without it (3:52). By the way why you never check the grease inside the head ? I mean would it make any difference ? Or the should is enough for you to know if they have all the grease they need ?

well for me i like to put a nice Fuel Stabilizer and in general remove the fuel out of my 2 stroke aka 2 cycle and 4 stroke aka 4 cycle gear i have but yeah whatever works for me during the Winter/Flu season etc.

Buy set of feeler gauges. Alot more user friendly than shims.

With larger tanks on equipment like a zero turn mower, we might leave some fuel in the tank over Winter (in SC) but we'll ad Sta-Bil to the tank and run it for a minutes to circulate through the carb if we do. Small 2-stroke stuff we just run out the fuel.

great video I am considering buying one of these trimmers. I also never leave fuel in my equipment over the winter or during long storage periods.

After each use even during the season I always empty the tank then pump the priming bulb to purge the carburetor of fuel, empty out this drop of fuel out too then start the engine until it stalls. I have never had any carburetor related issues in years using this procedure.

Nice work including valves and clutch. At first glance age of the machine but looking at purge bulb it was time for new carburettor. Cost to repair outstrip buying a new one if you had to buy OEM replacement and new clutch system. The gearbox needs greasing every 20 hours too, a rookie mistake I’ve made in the past, it’s easy though you just undo screw screw in the grease container squeeze and rotate head, and take out and put screw back in.

i leave ethanol free gas in all my small engines over winter and have never had an issue.

Chinese aftermarket parts: you would need to modify some to make them work unlike OEM where it just fits that one thing need to deal with some Chinese aftermarket parts.

I have the same steel trimmer a after I got a couple years it’s not working it won’t start

Great video!

Well, I'm just now seeing this video. But, in the last year, I've had "experts" say that leaving a full tank and stopping with some fuel in the system will keep the diaphragm lubricated. It seems we are damned if we do and damned if we don't. I have always just stored my HL-100 and MM55 without any prep. They have always started for years before needing a new carb. I abused a Shindaiwa trimmer for 18 years that has never needed anything but 1 spark plug and a couple of air filters.

I use only engineered fuel (VP small engine fuel) and Stihl full synthetic oil. Yes I leave the fuel in all winter long. It keeps the diaphragms soft and flexible. My Stihl KM90R is 17 years old and starts first pull. Is this fuel more expensive? Yes, but well worth it.

I bought a new carb for my Homelite Trim n Edge. I put a new spark plug. Still, it doesn't run. I checked the spark plug. There was black stuff at the gap. Not sure where it is coming from. Cleaned and put it back. Ran some and died. I would like to know the settings on the hi lo adjustments and the idle screw adjustment. Idle screw is all the way in. Hi low screws are also all the way in.

FYSA...won't start syndrome! I changed, i got the carburetor, ignition coil, filter, spark plug kit after watching this video...the video was great,but still did not start, and the only thing I did not change was the additional wire connected to the coil...after several hours I decided to change that too, and ta daaaa purrŕr

👍

I have left fuel in all of my two-stroke equipment overwinter forever but I do drain that old fuel out and start with fresh fuel the following spring. A much better option should I be less lazy is to fill the carburetor with two stroke oil for winterization.

i haven't drained fuel for winter storage ever : reason 1: shelf life is supposed to be 6 months with modern fuels and large amounts of winter blend ethanol fuel isn't introduced till after season ends and is removed before season begins 2: i keep the fuel clean 3: winter storage: my tanks are full or partially full to prevent dry rot and stored HANGING UP RIGHT in a dry space cause ethanol DOES absorb moisture in string trimmers moister will settle to the bottom of tank not carb. a lawn mower is different the lowest point is the carb bowl so simply shutting off the fuel valve will prevent corrosion inside the carb from sitting over winter and tank is plastic most the time drain the fuel if in dought . most videos ive been watching on 2 strokes with failed metering gaskets etc look like dry rot. only an opinion, let me know of any other opinion

Thanks for sharing. I live in Florida and there is no winter storage. ;-)

i have 2 dolmars , no pro cca 20 years. next garden they have 2x stihl. problem problem problem all the time. carb , head, carb carb. ...... stihl never i buy .

Would the trimmer head need lubricating as well ? I really enjoy your informative videos. Cheers Darren

Your new carb is not a 1 to 1 replacement. Heck even the rebuild kits are not 1 to 1. But at least they're just gaskets and springs. I've rebuilt quite a bit of stihl carbs. It's pretty quick once you know what you're doing. And you'll enjoy it if you like to tinker. Makes more sense to me to do that if you care about your machine. That repeated rope yanking hurt my soul. To properly start Stihl engines, gently pull the rope until you feel resistance. Fully retract rope then give it a brisk short pull. You don't want pull the rope all the way. That's how they'll break. One thing worth trying before you tear up the carb or replace it is to play with the throttle a bit. Use fresh fuel, with some cleaner additive. Do whatever you need to with the throttle to get it running. For example, a full throttle to start, feathered to keep it running. Then slowly increase the throttle until you can go full throttle. Release it a bit if it starts to choke and die. I just did this on a trimmer that was said to need a carb cleaning/fixing. It sat for 2 years. It started and died and failed to start again. Waited a bit to let the engine unflood. Started again with great difficulty then performed the above procedure just as a test. Now it works great. I hate replace whole part mentality. Try fixing the dang thing to keep it out of the landfill. Not everything needs to be replaced.

after replacing the clutch twice, I´ve now fixed it myself with some antiseize on the pivoting point of the shoes

Great repair 👍🙏👍🙏

I've got the same model and I think I need to replace the carb on it. I can only get it to run if I open the throttle while yanking the pull chord but it doesn't spin the head and eventually dies. I also found that when I get it running the head will spin as it should if I manually give it fuel by pressing the primer bulb with the throttle open. I've adjusted the carb but that hasn't helped anything. I noticed when taking apart the carb that I can hear air escape when I lightly push on the center of the metering diaphragm, but I'm not sure if that's to be expected or not. Any advice would be very appreciated.

Is there something else you can use to check the valve if you dont have that special metal that you use