Fixing Case 310 crawler dozer thrown track “Hot Potato” #2 

I believe the heat did more than the brute force but a little penetrating oil after heat never hurts. Guess you'd made a great tanker! Cheers from eastern TN

Nice video. New subscriber from England. Thank you.😊

I do like the track mark eraser . Good job, the hardest thing on these old machines is the rusted stuck nuts and bolts!

There's a crack on the big gear wheel!

I think the weld on the bracket is insufficient in size. Hope I'm wrong.

Really? You try and remove the master pin with what is essentially a jewellers tappy tap hammer and tiny little pin punch. Then you try and get it out with a jack hammer with a sharpened bit in it. All that would have done is bell out the end of the master pin and made it tighter in the links. The are two ways to get the master pin out. 1: Use a hydraulic press 2: Use a 15-20 lb sledge and a hot drift ( a punch with a handle ) and that requires two people. Of course you may be unlucky and actually get the pin out with that jewellers hammer. That would mean that the pin is worn out will in all probability not stay in. That would mean you have to fit a new pin and that will also mean you need to fit a new master link which will require the aforementioned hydraulic press. As for the bearing blocks. Even though you have managed to tighten the bolts they will, in all probability, come loose again. The bolts only force the plates together, it is the friction between the mating surfaces that actually holds everything together. You need to remove the bearing blocks and clean all rust off the mating faces. The faces also need to be flat, ideally machined flat, otherwise you are only clamping upto high spots, those highspots will give way under load and then you have loose bearing blocks again. With loose bolts. If they are nut and bolt then replace them. If they are threaded into a component then, as a minimum chase the threads with a tap to clean out any rust and loose material. If the threads are worn you need to either plug the holes with weld then redrill and tap them or use something like a helicoil to replace the threads. The problem with loose bolts in threaded components is that loose bolts wobble in the hole. That wobbling wears the threads out of spec. Out of spec threads will not stay tight. Wether or not you do any of the above depends on what sort of life you are expecting to out of the machine. If you are only expecting a few weeks of work out of it then just go for it.

I have three of these a 52 and 55 and a 57, the 52 and 57 have the loader, the 55 is a bulldozer just like yours. My 57 has the same problem left track always falls off the front idler, my front idler is so worn I'm having problems finding a replacement front

Heat is the finest way to remove stubborn bolts or broken studs .🇬🇧🇮🇪

Front idler has too much wear on the wear pads. Moves too much left and right

My wife is from Kittery Maine. Matter of fact she used to work at the Kittery Trading post. I am just curious were you in the Military? Just asking. Great video.

Sledge hamme,r mate and a drft..

New subscriber from MN Looks like you need to invest in cordless impact . Great video , I like to see old machinery come back to life .

Great video ! I have a camp in Sangerville Maine. I love watching how your improving the land and using great old iron to do it.

Hi from west Virginia

Awesome!!!!