I would maybe comment on two things, 1) You should clarify that you want to add sufficiently enough sand to make up approximately 30-50+% of the soil by volume, otherwise you risk creating a type of concrete aggregate mix, and 2) What is the pH of your initial soils? Maybe mention that as well, as adding biochar (an alkaline substance) will worsen soils if they already have a high pH, and that many clay soils are already have a high pH due to their elemental compositions.
Wrong. You want 30-50% organic and only 5-10% sand Works totally fine and is much cheaper than getting sand which is pretty expensive in clay soil areas
Adding biochar was not for adding alkaline to the soil. It's for introducing more porous organic material to the soil so the soil could trap more nutrition (CO2 and nitrogen) from the air. Had been proven to too many research about the advantage of biochar for plantation.
I have been gardening in Texas Clay. The only thing worked was to add massive amount of compost and organic materials. Then it takes long time for organic matter to break down. So I just do container garden on top of clay soil. After couple of years the ground under the container garden changes.
Make sure you're getting the ideal 10 inches of well drained soil. Check the USDA's Soil Web Survey to see how high your water-table is & plant 10-18 inches above it, any higher is unnecessary spending. If you're growing in what might be mostly clay then you may need to till in sulfur to lower the PH, but only if you've got the drainage fixed b/c sulfur can stink.
I recently started doing fully buried hugel culture in my pastures and around my fruit trees. I only have a shovel and crowbar so it's hard work lol 1m deep 50 wide and as long as it needs to be Old lucerne bales/greenmatter logs branches timber along the bottom and mulch sprinkled across the top I try to keep it to 35 cm in height and sprinkle good fine soil to get it down to fil holes/gaps and water it in. I toss the grass back in then the soil that was deepest at the top it lumps up like a speed hump but after 6 - 12 it smooths out as the green matter breaks down
After reading the comments, it's like nobody watched Diego's last video(not even him). As gardner/farmers we should all be aiming for the golden ratio(loam) of organic matter/sand/clay. Add whatever you don't have enough of and grow the plants that suit/improve your soil.
I don't know, I only have sand and lots of it. However I have always been told that if you add normal sand to clay you get concrete. I've been told that you want to add "Green Sand." I don't have any idea what makes it so different and luckily I don't need to find out, lol. I would like to know how this turns out in the long run though, so please revisit this sometime in the future, thanks.
My soil is solid clay and greensand which is just clay full of minerals more or less so i wouldnt another use for it is casting metal so it compacts very much the same as clay.
@Diego Footer I don't know what happened to my previous comment, anyway - Diego, I appreciate your work and your thinking here. Just note that I and other people on here are making some points based on experience (in my case both academic work in soil science and for-profit market gardening). I am in the UK, and here soils can be 60-70% red clay. In order to do what you advice, I would need to bring here tractor-trailer-loads of sand. I have in the past tried to amend clay with sand, and obtained cement. To give you an idea, this was 100kg of sand on a 7.5 sqm bed. That's a lot of sand to buy and apply. Not enough to improve my red clay. Gypsum has given better results straight away and in much lower doses. Compost has worked best of all options. Yes, Sand is an option. But in most heavy clay soils, in humid climates (where the soil is often saturated), it's not a practical one.
Everyone says that but it's not true. It's all about percentage of sand to clay. The most so after soil type is sandy loam it is 70 percent sand and thirty percent clay. This is a permanent fix.
@@ronaldcummings6337Are you saying that you can have to add over twice as much sand as there is pure clay, to avoid ending up with cement? (To go from 100% clay to 70% sand, 30% clay). And is it not true that adding too little of sand turns clay to cement, as the OP said?
I’m here in Dallas with our black clay, and it is probably the greatest soil I have ever experienced. Black as night due to how much organic matter and soil carbon the tall grass prairies poured into the ground here for 10s of thousands of years. Soaks up water like a sponge, holds water forever, doesn’t clump at all - actually behaves more like sand when it’s not too wet. What I’ve noticed is the clay particles bunch up in aggregates about the size of a bread crumb which makes digging into it a dream!
@@vonries There is a narrow band of the black clay that stretches from a little North of here down to San Antonio. If I were to head just 15-20 miles East of where I am now it would be just very typical run of the mill sticky/solid clay.
The black in the soil might be all of the biosolids washed down from the constant floods. Some of my old neighbors thought they were great at gardening but they were actually in cesspits crated by outdated OSSF (backyard sewage systems). I wonder if any of it might be huge oil spills that were never cleaned up by the early cowboy generations. The oil companies always brag about how quick bacteria eat oil but I don't remember being taught about early cleanup processes working.
I totally agree with diego's stand point on this. I see many are berating him for suggesting a tilling counterpart when correcting clay soil. But guys understand the when, where and why. An initial tilling is way better then doing it continously and this would only apply if structure is inadequate from the start. If you dont have this situation then dont do this. Addressing your soil structure from the start will assure that youre building your soil upon a proper foundation and will save you alot of time and effort from trying to address this problem later on. Thank you diego, i will be doing this to my heavy soils from now on.
Adding compost works. Adding sand makes a tough, hard soil. We accidentally did a few years ago by adding soil that had a high sand content. We are still trying to remedy that error
@@beesandseeds I just started a clay soil & sand grow bag today for carrots. I also started another bag that contains a mix of 3 parts 1/8th" sifted compost, 1 part clay, 1 part sand. I think it'll work better than just growing in 100% non-screened compost from Miramar Greenery!
@@martenalvarado7147 we have heavy clay soils here. I’ve found if I just layer all the compost I make on top, it’s great for growing but still haven’t got it where it’s not water logged all winter
Adding sand is the quickest way to make your garden look like the surface of the moon. Add organics instead. Add as much compost as you can find. Even a truck bed of double cut mulch and a bag of high calcium lime tilled together into the clay will help a lot. Mulch everything heavily once it's up or transplanted. If you can find a load of mushroom compost, all the better. Keep applying organics to the top and mulching as it turns to dirt. The lime helps the typically low ph of clay soil, and to make nutrients available to the plants. A couple applications of nitrogen fertilizer is a good idea because the wood chips and mulch deplete it as they break down.
Not all clay soil is alkaline, but typically clay soil is alkaline. Most plants prefer neutral to acidic soil, some do thrive on alkaline. Adding lime to alkaline soil would make things worse Make sure your soil is acidic before adding lime!
In Perth, Western Australia, we do the opposite, being on the edge of a desert, the average garden soil is in fact sand, so as well as lots of organic matter, we add granular clay, up to 5 kgs (10 pounds or so) per square metre, dig and mix in well, and then water, the clay binds the larger sand particles and organic matter, thus creating a useful growing medium resembling loam....
Sand is great. I use it here in Thailand for my heavy red and black clays. Biochar though you need to be careful with if fungal dominance is what you are shooting for.
I have tried adding sand to heavy clay, for me personally it didn't appear to improve the soil. I don't want to say that this will not work, only that it did not work for me. Thanks for putting out another video sharing what you are doing and your ideas for you garden, really enjoy all the content :)
The type of sand doesn't matter. You have to add enough to dilute out the clay, so it depends on how much clay is in the soil to start with. The more clay to begin with the more sand to add.
The clay Diego is tilling up has a very different consistency than the red clay we have here in NC. When you dig up a shovel full of red clay here, what you get looks like potter’s clay: dense, solid, moist and ready to spin on a potter’s wheel for making bowls and such. It’s damn near impossible to mix it with sand.
Thanks for the vid. You’re sure poking the internet beast with these assertions 🤣. I wonder how much the type of sand used will affect the outcome? Playground sand would seem to be too fine, while a coarser sand might work better. Am trying to keep an open mind 🤓
Dr. Mittleider and Jim Kennard say to use sand for clay soils, and given my (and others) success with their method I am inclined to believe sand is the way to go. I mean, the soil texture pyramid says as much. It makes logical sense.
Loam is what we are trying to achieve which is an equal blend of clay sand and silt. In my experience simply adding sand to clay opens up the soil to the point that when it dries the soil forms a brick. If I do not include compost, leaf mold, and finely ground composted bark my clay soil sucks. For me, adding sand is useless unless a big organic component is included in the effort
In my experience, heavy mulch with hay or leaves then wait ( the more I learn, the more I'm for no-dig and no-till/no-plow. NO, you don't need to till in the compost or manure or etc. ! Leave on top, have plenty of carbon with - or over - any manure, preferably ) ( Tilling damages soil structure and makes clay soil worse ! ). Ends up being GREAT garden soil ! I did usually have chicken coop cleanings to add, too.
Adding sand is like destroying a great chance of having the best soil possible. It will increase oxidation of organic matter and decrease the clay-humus complex. The best way to improve a clay soil is organic matter. I have very heavy soil and added sand to one of the beds... i regret it every day. I have to water it twice as much and use more compost on it... never again
I would even till in wood chips if the clay is that bad. I know people say it will use nitrogen and whether thats true or not its a good way to get organic matter into your soil quickly. You can always supplement nitrogen if thats a concern. You can wait years to get that organic mats into your soil if you just throw a thin layer of compost on top of hard clay.
The reason people think it becomes a “concrete type substance“ is because they’re not adding enough sand. If you add a little bit of sand to clay when you get sand trapped inside of clay and it looks like “concrete“. You have to add enough sand to dilute the clay down. That’s what loam is. Just step back for a minute and think about it logically. You have pure clay how would adding sand make the clay harder than it is assuming moisture level doesn’t change? It’s not even possible.
You just made molding sand. Which is not a bad thing but if compacted will hold its shape. I cannot stress enough to avoid the compaction is to add the same amount of organic matter. In the green sand molding process trash/organic matter causes issues with the bonding process and your mold will not hold together. Just a thought
Best thing i have found to help loosen clay is to keep the moisture in the soil with mulch itll help the plants slide threw the small particle sizes but id imagine thats hard to do in the desert haha. Best of luck
Also try adding John and Bob's Smart Soil Solutions like penetarte, optimizer, maximize, and Nourish-Biosol. A few a application will improve your soil.Soil. it will take a while to work. If all else fails just add sand.
I'm a newer viewer but ive been enjoying your backlog of videos. This one is super relevant to me as I'm experimenting with a compost/red clay soil/sand mixture in grow bags this season and I watered them with compost tea. I think if you had to do something that destroys your soil structure you could help it out with a few bacterial and fungal compost tea applications. What do y'all think?
I have very sandy soil. Recently I replaced our mailbox stand and put the soil excavated from the post hole into a plastic tote. The tote got left out in the rain. Normally the water would drain right through that sandy soil, but the plastic tote prevented it from doing so. Once saturated, the sandy soil in that tote became a very clay-like slurry. I’m afraid that clay would prevent sand from draining much as my plastic tote did, and once you get a good rain you’ll be back where you started!
Hey Diego, I have the opposite issue. Sand no clay. I do know of an area near me. Will kinda near honestly. It's wild organic free range clay. Maybe I will venture out and harvest some. Thanks for your time and effort.
I have clay in my garden which is so thick and sticky, even my backhoe get stuffed and eventually I have to peel it out. The clay is greyish without any oxygen I suppose. My property is in a valley, it is an old watermill, so all the clay is brought here. If you want to spent some time in France, you are welcome to release some expertise on this property ;) But thank you for sharing, I will try and implement this.
@@DiegoFooter Calcium makes the clay soggy/drain(though not deep if not tilled in) & the sulfur lowers the PH a bit by attaching to magnesium which will eventually wash out.
Never add sand to heavy clay soil, unless you’re adding the same volume of sand as there is clay, which would be crazy. Gypsum and compost are what should be used.
gypsum should be used with caution. It can be good for sodic soils, but its effects are temporary and if added unnecessarily it can deplete soil potassium and cause leaching of aluminum, iron, lead, manganese, potassium into the local water table. It can also interfere with the beneficial soil life.
I think it is more feasible for most gardeners with terrible soil to use raised beds. It is very expensive and physicallydifficult to improve the drainage deeply enough by turning in sand.
I went that way once, but clay soil is actually not hard to remedy and has its own benefits. If you put in the time, it's really much cheaper by area to remedy what you have.
Clay is one of the best gardening mediums its chock full of minerals and as long as it rains in your climate you will do better just covering it and growing away adding a load of sand isnt a solution in my opinion its costly heavy and does nothing other than "loosen" the soil which isnt proven in this video.
The goal is to loosen the soil so roots can go deeper. A lot of heavy clays will slow that process. I’m just proposing a way to expedite that process. When you start looking at the research you can clearly see that roots go deeper and looser soil, so you’re right you do want clay to hold nutrients and water, but you need that clay aggregated in such a way that roots can go through it. There is no right answer everybody has to do what works for them.
Maybe your clay Diego, my clay would become concrete 😅 I literally use a tractor and it's still hard 😅😅😅 I'm going to stick to compost on the surface and hoping the plants will work it out 🥲
