6:22 "It's not a huge difference but not everything has to make a massive difference it's progress!" I hope you guys remember this for all your new years resolutions and understand that no matter how small the progress is, as long as you keep improving yourself it's enough.
and to be perfectly honest... for the tiny bit of effort, and tiny bit of thermal paste.. 8C is a pretty huge bonus. In the realm of Gpu/Cpu thermals and such thats pretty damn good.
This is crazy coincidence! I just bought one of these cards a couple of days ago and was looking into if it was possible to get better temps only a couple of hours before you uploaded this! Safe to say I'm just going to boost the fan speeds and leave it at that after this madness 🤣
Thermal paste brings the best results. Memory junction and hotspot went down 98C to 84C at peak. Only thing that really pisses me off is fan noise. When it gets high rpm is noisy af and i can't stand that. Still looking for a solution (deshrouding didn't work)
Considering how hot we see this type of memory (sometimes pushing upwards of 106c..) Down in the mid 90s at stock is pretty good and getting it to the mid 80s with the added thermal paste is stellar. Good job Dawid.
I love the fact that both of us are still strugelling with rtx 3080 high temps! I bought a turbo edition 3080 from gigabytes, I tried AIO cooling with kraken g12 but memory temps were not good, So i just gave up and fixed it by replacing thermal pads and paste, And definitly undervolting
That's pretty much the only way to go unfortunately. Had friends try everything else before finally going "fuck it, gelid pads it is" and the issue was immediately resolved lmao
I was hoping so much from that little heatsink. 😄 For context, I repadded my 3090 Eagle, stuck 8 heatsinks in the back, had a fan exhausting from the open bracket area (angled mount), my H500M case has superb front to back airflow and the VRAM temp was exactly 86c as in your case.
Found out about you from your talk on Broken Silicon and am glad because this is my favorite kind of tech content. Self proclaimed letting the other channels to the serious stuff and instead exploring the "kinda stupid" things you can play around with is great. Saying "mount" is a bit of a grandiose term had me cracking up, that's exactly the kind of caveat I need to add to descriptions of all my projects.
Hi Dawid! I've been bingewatching your content ever since I saw your Wish computer build! I just wanted to say thanks for giving me the courage and inspiration to finally build my own PC. You took what seemed so complicated to me and made it simple. I even got it to boot first try! I'm looking forward to more of your awesome content!
Is it only me that wants a cooler like this in retail gpus as well? I mean it does not have a million rgbs on or useless crap like "game on" written all over it. And nice temps too.
LOL what a video, for some reason my mind knew that zip tie air cooler wasnt going to do shit, but my heart wanted it so bad. Dawid, happy new year, excited to watch your channel grow in 2023!
COPPER SHIMMMMMMMM (between cooler and plate) Definitely the way to go. I did this on an old Nvidia Ion powered netbook many moons ago and the difference of 0.2mm between the shims I tested made several degrees difference. Plus you can thermal paste the shim in to the right position and clean up the residue. Mounting pressure should keep it in place
I have one of these cards and if you undervolt it, flash the latest bios from dell which fixes the fan curve, and do the "thermal paste on the vram plate" trick to lower vram temps, it's as good as any other 3080. It's a real 3080 that's built like a tank and it's good.
Instead of putting the thermal paste on the heatsink and putting it on, its better to put thermal paste on the individual VRMs and then let the cooler spread it out, much like you would on a CPU. I had to do the same on my MSI laptop. For some reason they used a thermal compound instead of thermal pads so I didn't know which height thermal pads I had to use. So I just put a spot of thermal paste on each and whacked the cooler on. Its only reeeaally good.
@@riannair7101 Not really, it'll take roughly the same time to dry out as the CPU/GPU's thermal paste to dry out which means by the time I repaste it doesn't matter much. Its just a bit longer cleaning.
@@ADunleavy if contact pressure between thermal paste and radiators are poor (that is be the case) guess what is happen...Fast Dry , is like you leave thermal paste on direct contact with air. You dont need faculty to observe that!😉😉
@@ADunleavy Depends with what thermal paste you use (type gel thermal paste is more resiliant to dry in contact with air than one (thick) with very high viscosity(thermal grizzly kryonaut for example). BTW not need be mad for entire Earth not gravitate around you !😁
I'm actually so glad you made this video. Recently I've been wondering how much of a difference slapping a CPU stock cooler onto the backplate of a GPU would make to its cooling. And now I've learned that it does absolutely nothing! Good to know.
I think the issue is thermal transfer between the PCB and backplate, as well as the lack of mounting pressure between the cooler and the backplate. I think something like the Razer Peltier phone cooler with some Honeywell PTM7950 would work really well.
@@matasa7463 I know at least for my GPU the backplate gets REALLY hot under load, so at least for some the thermal transfer isn’t an issue. This also makes sense, because shining a flashlight between the PCB and backplate reveals a sizable thermal pad. More likely the issue is mounting pressure, since there’s only so much one can do to apply pressure when it wasn’t intended.
I saw a page where you can buy copper plates as a replacement for thermal pads on the memory chips. This brings Temps down from like 90°c to around 60°c.
I've seen this before. While it reduces temps on the memory, the shims are so effective at transferring heat into the heatsink that it unintentionally also increases the heat of the gpu directly as the heatsink is already saturated from the memory. Not saying it's not effective but it's not a clean reduction of 30 degrees as mentioned
I bought a HSF designed for backplate cooling for my 3090 and it definitely made a difference. I can see why it wouldn't make a big difference for a 3080 due to the lack of rear memory chips. Regardless, it's crazy how hot the backplate can get, even with the HSF added.
I wish I knew these existed a year back. I used to simply put a fan ontop of my 3090 in the "pull" position and this kept the memory temps from going over 88 when I was mining with it. It was an NZXT fan meant for a radiator.
I haven't finished watching, but I will say that K5 PRO would be a great substitute for thermal pads in a case like this. Consider something like that in the future. Works great for my GPU and motherboard water blocks.
@@abhinavkumar4063 Yep I only found out about it because of Alex's video on LTT. It convinced me to give it a shot, and I've been pleased with the sustained performance of it so far. Messy? Sure, but I don't mind a little bit of mess.
the next step after ziptying the cooler to the back would be to DIY a bracket to hold it there. But yeah, where are fancy backplates with fins. Could work well as visual thing and as cooler.
Adding heatsinks and fans to the backplate doesn't work. I've seen several other times when people tried it during researching this card, and really all that matters is the core and vram temps are good. The backplate getting hot doesn't hurt anything.
One of the most best RU-vidrs if you want to see a person screw around with a 3080 maybe even one of the 40 series in the future this is the best channel to go to… in a certain point of view.
Next time try to put the back cooler on the rear side where that memory heat pipe is and its better to use a full flat one like in old gpus instead of your with a center puck.. anyway always fun to watch these experiments
The #1 thing you should do to reduce memory temps, is to remove those stickers that are in the way. Paper really sucks at thermal transfer. Then possibly sand the paint off too, get metal to metal and then use paste between the cooler and mid plate.
you probably needed more thermal paste. But you should really just get some 0.5 or 0.2mm thermal pads as they will much better spread pressure. I would also advise on better thermal pads between back of the board and backplate, but you'll have a harder time finding over 2mm pads than the 0.2mm, as that looks like 2.5mm or more (you can always stack them). My EVGA 3080 XC3 benefitted a lot from the most basic pads stacked on top of each other (it had none from factory), and its backplate doesn't even have a heat pipe like this card does.
A guy on Facebook was selling one of these Dell 3080s for $300 with the unusual circumstance of the fans not working while the GPU itself worked just fine. I asked him if I could try it out before I bought it and he was okay with it. The GPU in fact worked fine, though the fans simply didn't work. I went ahead and bout it and tried to fix the fans to no avail. I had a backup plan -- remove the fans and zip tie two case fans onto the heat sink. I bought a couple $10 Corsair case fans at Best Buy, nothing special, and with most games it stays at around 60 on the GPU and around 83 on the memory. For some reason God of War raises that GPU's temps to the surface of Mercury.
try some kryonaut also making the fan on your additional thermal block pull air away from it as opposed to just blasting air down onto it would more than likely work better
What i would recommend next time is to heat the card up, the thermal pads are more loose then aswell and if needed, use some isopropyl because it loosens the stickiness up. There is a small potential you could damage the components by forcibly removing the parts connected with the pads.
@@Gatorade69 Just use a hair drier, you don't need to overheat it, just enough for the "glue" on the pads to let go. Or game on it for a bit, let it heat up that way.
Glad to see, I mean hear, that the pronunciation of "tiddy-80" is back, it's gonna be a good year 😉 Aaaaand if I ever tried to disassemble a tiddy-series card (did once to a GTX 970 and all was fine) I'd be sweating thermal paste... I mean everything I've read states that if you rip the factory thermal pads and need to replace, they need to be the exact same thickness etc... I'd get it ALL WRONG, temps would soar and I'd brick my card 🤣
LOL I love how, at approx 6:05, you said "subjectively" while almost simultaneously on the screen (in game) it said "OBJECTIVE E TAKEN". It's like the game is arguing with you that you're not being subjective!
That smoothness you were talking about is probably the blessing of GamersNexus Steve (aka Tech Jesus) coming down upon you for improving a Dell product. ;)
I did something weird but it kinda worked for me, But it was not a great idea I bought some aluminum waterblocks from aliexpress and ziptie them to the front and the back of gpu and made a watercooling loop, The temps droped by 10C but it was not worth it So i guess the best way to cool it is to get a gpu waterblock
"It's not the kind of figure that will get you laid, but better than I was expecting." The way he delivers some of these lines is so off-the-cuff I refuse to believe it's scripted.
The thermal pad replacement that you could use is the Upsiren U6 pro, it's a thermal putty that can be reused and be molded like clay. So you'll need to do the pressure test onto the vram chips directly first to see if it makes contact for all vrams, then apply another thinner layer above the plate where you applied thermal compound with. Once both of them have contact, what you'll use next is KPX onto the gpu die. You can over compensate the gpu die by applying all over it either 0.5mm or 1mm in thickness to ensure that any kind of airgaps will be filled out and will help out maximizing the heat transfer for both the vrams and gpu die. *don't do the guides with copper shims, it's kinda a risky mod to do since it may damage the solder balls (it may crack, cause bridges/shorts, ripped pads etc) under the vrams if excessive pressure is applied onto it with the wrong thickness of the copper shim. As for the thermal putty it's a safer alternative as it will spread/stretch if excessive pressure is applied onto it. What you can also do is to apply kapton tape or Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape onto the capacitors surrounding the GPU die so that the capacitors won't be in contact with KPX incase that it spills over if too much is applied and less hassle for cleanups.
Dawid, You should have let the old thermal past dry out, chopped it up and snorted it for a more "chill" experience. Dell is the the most "slap happy" applicant of viable products on the market. I say this as an owner of various Dell "products" (aka: trash) that are still reviewed as "great". YOU are are a champion of hope! A beacon (not bacon) of reality of what is and what is not. As opposed to alternate realities IRL. For that virtue, I wish you the best of Holiday Seasons and Happy New Year.
im pretty sure you can use those memory modules to cook your christmas dinner about 6 nanoseconds before your guests arrive. also, thermal putty makes a delicious gravy with little to no effort 😋
I actually managed to get my mem temps down to the same temperature as the GPU core. Which mean that I’m normally seeing a memory temp of around 45-46°. In some rare use cases they deviate from each other by 1-2° max. I know this is an unfair comparison but I really need to brag about the mem temps I managed to get with a homebrewed thermalpadpaste. It’s just Alphacools 14w/mk 1mm thermal pad mixed with high viscosity silicone oil. Granted I’m also using an Aquacomputer waterblock which naturally does the most of the work. However I haven’t read or heard of anyone getting the mem temps down to the exact same temp as the GPU core. I got an Asus ROG Strix OC 3080 shuntmodded to remove the power limit.
funnily enough this is basically what EVGA did on my 1080 Ti Hybrid, there's thermal paste on the copper plate covering the memory and the water block makes contact with the paste
Again, this is the most tech gangster thing, in true David style. The crazy thying is, not too long ago, folks bought these alienware machines just to get and flip the cards in them. A dell branded 3080, what a scary thought.
Your Mod probably doesnt work well as the heat sink contact of your GPU is not having good contacts with the small mounted heat sink and fan. You could just tie down the small small fan directly to the GPU backplate and i assure you it would definitely work better.
Recently i slapped 3 CPU coolers to an stone old HD4830 1GB + another fan to overclock it to the max. (its my only card right now sadly) and it worked wonders!! Way higher OC and "only" 75 degrees when really pushing it for a long time. I just bought an r9 280x and a gtx 970 4gb yesterday and both will get a similar treatment! :D I plan on watercooling both with a cheap cpu watercooler and also i will place copper coolers and fans on it. They will be beautiful. :D
"Going to do extreme cooling to bring the temps down" 30 mins latah "and the results are exactly the same. Well thanks for watching" LMAO love it Dawid
Turn the back fan on your PC case to intake instead of exhaust.. I do this for everyone that has a 240mm RAD AIO CPU cooler and they get lower temps, a constant feed of outside air to the RAD. It would have at least fed your homemade cooler with fan get more outside airflow, no idea if it would have done much for you though.
If I'm not mistaken those Dell and Acer RTX 3080s are a slightly modified Zotac design. Mine is from an Acer prebuilt Predator desktop and has this same issue and the thermal paste between the frame and the vapor chamber indeed helped a lot.
I completely covered my 3080 backplate with 3D printer stepper drive heatsinks, glued with the cheap white "thermal putty" glue, dropped memory temps from throttling (110C?) into the 90's
is it better to use thermal pads that are a bit thin instead of that thermal paste you did? ngl it looks okay but i think the pads will cover more and make less of a mess. but that is very intresting result.
Get copper shims instead of thermal pads between the plate and the actual memory (it works really well), plus the thermal paste between the cooler and the plate and you'll see some real difference
The best thing you can do its put more thermal paste on the space between memory plate and heatsink, and also put the little amd cooler were the heatpipes ends, it makes more sense because the heat conduces until the end of the heatpipe, so if you cool that part of the heatpipe it will improove temps i think tho
LOL I did a similar cooling "MOD" on my old MSI 970 motherboard to allow for easier overclocking of the 8370 that surely shouldnt really have been in that board. It was JENKY as hell, but all these years later that PC is still my Home theatre pc and to be honest, i never thought to remove all the overclocking settings, so that fan is still doing its job.
You should have used thermal glue on the backplate cooler, and thermal pads on the memory heat sink. The vapor chamber isn't making a good contact with the memory heat sink, so the thermal paste is useless.
Dell GPU: eh, we got some metal heat pipes, its reasonable Gaming Brand: Oh my gawd look at this beefy beast, triple fans, nice and chunky, RGB, so cool!
I have that crappy dell 3080. I used a whole tube of artic thermal oaste You could also put copper shims between the thermal pads on the back of the pcb and the back plate then used themal paste between the plate and the thermal pads. And i added small heat sinks on top of the back plate where the vram was located I went from 101c memory temps to 90c.
Very good idea to put thermal paste between!!! 8° is a huge difference when it comes to temps above 80°! But the company should have figured that out by themselves first if they had good engineers
even my evga 2080 was hot and loud so i ended up putting a kraken g12 on it and then had to buy some heatsinks for the memory and boy do they do a good job.. unless you pay stupid stupid money now they try and get away with as little as possible... so much greed its putting me off.. my 2080 is now running slower (maybe due to driver updates that slow it down) in games such as assassins creed odyssey that ive played for year, playing it again now and its noticeably worse with all the exact same hardware etc... some ol bulllllshit
an extra fan doesn't lower the temperature because there is no DDR6 rams installed on the back side. If there were like some high-end graphic cards, it would have been a different story.
I used thermal paste in place on putty on my 3090 and it ran a bit cooler, I didn’t have putty, didn’t even know what the heck it was, assumed it was thermal grease
I am soooooooooo disappointed that this didn't improve the Temps. I(like Dawid) am obsessed with lowering Temps. I would have bet money this was going to help. Don't give up my dude. Keep chasing lower temps!
It probably couldn't do much because it was trying to get the heat from through the PCB, then through the back plate and over to the side (not the heat pipe side) and it just didn't cool much, even if the fan was going really fast. I once had a fan strapped straight to the back plate (no heat sink) and it helped lower VRM temps a bit, but it wasn't worth the hassle
I use a dual GPU set up with an Intel Arc A770 and 2080Ti in my work rig, I just simply put 2 120mm fans on top of both GPUs as exhaust fans(A770 is mounted on the mobo while 2080Ti is vertically mounted, they have a slanted angle in between), so that even when using 390W, my 2080Ti never gets over 67C, and when A770 uses 223W, it never gets over 75C. I think extra fans do help with temps, just when they are put in the correct locations.
