Fixing PS3 Controller Drift: Replacing the Left Stick Without Calibration Software

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Welcome back to FixIt All Workshop! In this video, I’m repairing an original PS3 controller with a common issue-drift on the left stick. Unfortunately, unlike some newer controllers (PS4 and PS5 Ones), the PS3 lacks calibration software, so I'll be manually matching the stick and attempting to make it as close to factory-calibrated stick as possible.
What You'll Learn:
Diagnosing stick drift on an original PS3 controller
Replacing the faulty left stick and matching it to the factory calibration
Tips for ensuring a smooth repair, even without calibration software
Why This is Important:
PS3 controllers may not have the calibration tools available for more modern controllers, but you can still fix them by carefully replacing and matching parts like the analog stick. This video shows how to get the job done and bring your controller back to life without needing calibration software.
Tools & Materials Used:
Replacement analog stick
Screwdriver set
Soldering iron and desoldering tools
Multimeter (optional for testing stick components)
Don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe for more DIY repair videos!
#PS3ControllerRepair #LeftStickDriftFix #DIYControllerFix #FixItAllWorkshop

Опубликовано:

20 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 3

@ImanImani-q8u 20 дней назад

👍🏼

@ivey77426 20 дней назад

Those are Hall Effect sticks, they are not prone to drift. And even if you encounter in on DS3 is due to completely different reason than on all other gamepads popular today. In terms of reliability those ps3 analogs surpass DS4 and DS5, Switch and Xbox controllers.

@AdyWorkshop 20 дней назад

Exactly! The sensors themselves will never actually go bad. That’s why I kept the sensor body. What did wear out on this one (and a few others I’ve fixed that were heavily used) was the plastic inside the stick. It stopped centering properly-it would lean to one side depending on the movement. Like, if you moved left, it would stay slightly left, causing drift since it wouldn't return to dead center. This made it necessary to replace the mechanical part of the stick. But once you do that and put the magnets back, the center will be a bit off. However, it's always a fixed offset. If you can get that value close to 0, you’ve got a solid stick that will last for years, at least until the plastic wears out again. But that's the hard part as you don't have a calibration tool for this one - so you need to match it somehow to go closest to 0. Anyway i do like to save them from the dump :D