I use my VCX Nano and GDS2 to clear the codes and fix the charging error. I also give a brief overview of how that system works. If you find it helpful please give me a like and subscribe!
Thank you for making this video. I had a couple days of being pained by the SHVCS message and code P1FFF ("Coolant Level Sensor Fault") with my 2015 Volt this weekend. After topping up the 50/50 Dexcool mixture (it was a bit below the coolant tank seam after many years of evaporation), I used my "get it done" OBD II scanner (Ancel AD410 from Amazon) to clear the diagnostic code while my Volt was running. The code cleared immediately, as did the dash message about the High Voltage system. I turned off the ignition and plugged in my Level 2 charger. The Volt is back to its normal charging self. Back in business!
I had the same thing and tried clearing it with a cheap wifi obd2 scanner with no dice. Brought it to the dealer and they "reprogrammed" it as you mentioned. I now own a good obd2 diagnostic tablet that was able to go through every module in my volt. Needless to say, it will not be going back to the dealer if the issue returns. Good video and demonstration.
@@edmiller6227 I didn't reprogram but I use the topdon artidiag 800bt. It scans every module and it can clear them, which is what the dealer would do in this case. It also does a bunch of other stuff.
Hi Colin I have a 2011 Volt with the same issue, what year is yours? Some of the newer volts are reportedly easier to clear the Service high voltage sys error than 2011 an 2012 models. I will buy the itopdon artidiag 800bt if it will do it, the dealer charged me a fortune last time, told me they had to change the inverter, I know mine just needs a reset.
@@mvpmachine I have a 2013 volt so it's still a first gen volt. I'm not 100% on if it will clear the code, however, it is able to read from every single module and clear from every single module in the car so I'm almost certain that it wouldn't have a problem clearing it. If it doesn't you can always return it. Make sure your coolant is actually not low and you should be fine.
@@gamergye thanks for your reply! I emailed their customer service, hopefully they will know. If not i'll give it a try anyways, most likely a good tool to have.
Very helpful. My 2014 Chevy Volt wouldn't let me charge the main battery. I topped up the coolant reservoir, cleared the error code, and boom, it's letting me charge the battery now.
@@stephenlee3109 If you clear codes on your car, you need to have driven a certain amount before you can pass smog. Same with disconnecting 12v battery.
I had "Service High Voltage Charging System" on my 2013 Chevy Volt a few days ago. I noticed that the car did not charge when I plug-in. I cleared up the code using regular obd2 scanner but the code came up again when I started the car. So I cleared up the code again, but this time I did not restart the car, instead I plugged-in the car right the way. It worked. The charge light indicator was on and I let it charged. I started the car after an hour of charging and the code was no longer shown on the screen.
Update: after topping up the 50/50 Dexcool mixture (it was a bit below the coolant tank seam after many years of evaporation), I used my "get it done" OBD II scanner (Ancel AD410 from Amazon) to clear the diagnostic code while the Volt was running. The code cleared immediately, as did the dash message about the High Voltage system. I turned off the ignition and plugged in my Level 2 charger. The Volt is back to its normal charging self. Back in business!
Ok update on the high voltage error on my 2013 volt. I took it to the dealer. And it just needed an update on the becm. Stands for the battery energy control module and it hasn’t came back on so far.
Hi, I just followed these instructions today and they worked. Anything interesting happen in the year since you posted this? My VCX nano came with the software on a usb drive, did the whole VM thing and it went well. FWIW, first thing I tried was the built in windows Hyper-V manager, that will not allow you to passthru the usb device, some time wasted, VMWare worked.
The anti-tamper bracket is there to prevent vehicle owners from topping up a leaking battery cooling system. In the event of an internal drive battery leak, coolant can cause a short, which can lead to the car burning down. It's not just an annoyance or to make owners go to dealers to get air out of the system. It's a major safety concern. Go ahead and top up your system, but if it needs attention more than once, go get it checked. I love Volts. I don't like hearing about fires.
I also have the TDS SPS subscription and had updated all my modules without issue. There was 1 code pointing to the sensor on that reservoir so I replaced it with a OEM one. I now have a permanent code. I haven't driven the car and was wondering if I need to in order to rid the code, P1FFD, I believe. I did try and clear codes but it won't as it's a permanent code. Or do I need to run some diag in SPS or GDS? I did also replace my heater pump near the right front wheel well area to try and get my heater back to working. Any suggestions would be awesome.
My mechanic replaced the tank w/sensor. After 3 restarts the error returned. However, this error message did appear after I hit a “big bump.” There might be something to that.
Hello, this may sound like a dumb set of questions, but : 1) Could you please tell us where to download the software from? I have found a website that charges different rates for downloading 20$ for a single GSD2 download up to 50$ for a download with "live installation" - Why would I need "live installation" I don't understand, perhaps there are specific parameters that need to be set up? 2) Does it work with any OBD II adaptor over Bluetooth for instance? or do I need to buy a cable? 3) Does it work with any windows 10 computer? Thanks in advance. Best regards, thanks for the video.
I don't know exactly, but suspect the "live installation" gives you full updates where the one-time install probably won't update for Software updates made by manufacturer since the software was coded.
Thanks for this. Have been able to clear mine using a cheap ELM device and torque, but definitely interested in how you were able to bleed the coolant system...?
So my 2012 volt died. 12 volt battery dead. Replaced battery. Now says unable to charge. Took it to an EV shop in Tampa. Says my big battery is toast. OBD2 and my green volt shows a few cells at the bottom. But any chance this could help?
Hi there. This only helps for the “service high voltage charging system” error. I’m only slightly familiar with MGV app, but I do know that the scale on the battery cell monitor is very tight. It may be just slightly low but the graph makes it look empty. Perhaps try to disconnect the 12v for a few minutes? Either way best of luck!
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains probably worth a second opinion. And you can check out greentechauto for a battery section. I’m not affiliated and haven’t used them but heard good things.
My 2013 Opel Ampera just started having the Service High Voltage Charging System error. A cheap ELM327 Bluetooth OBDII adapter and the Torque app for Android was able to clear the codes, as long as the car is powered on. The cleared codes are p1f0e, p0aa6, p1fff and b2aaa. Torque gives no explanation for the errors, but some googling and a gmvolt forum post put me on the track that led me to this video. The error comes back about 1-2 times per week and can not be cleared immediately after it arises, so I usually leave the car in the garage over night before clearing the code and charging works again. It's OK with the crazy European electricity prices and cold mornings these days, but I wonder if the shop will be able to permanently fix this by following the service bulletin. It said something about pulling a drain plug to look for a leak, but I didn't want to start stripping off the shielding underneath the battery.
Thank You very much for this video! just today in the morning I got that message Volt woudnt charge after coming from work, did exactly how you explain and vuala. I used an Autel Hypertough obd 2 scanner, worked just fine
So I’m having this trouble too with the high voltage charging error message. What exactly do I do. Just push down the float while the engine is running? That’s what I did. Then reset the light again. Hoping it don’t come back on again
@@robcastvr70 car dont have to be running, I just press the float, carefully not to break it, then I got ready my obd2 scanner, turned on the car and proceded to reset the codes on the hcpm2
@@robcastvr70 on the scanner dont just erase the codes, try to find the hcpm2(I believe that is what is called) then read the codes for it and erase them
Sorry for just seeing this and replying to it. VCX Nano is such a pain. I’m hoping you got it resolved by now but if not or someone else reading this… You’ll need to run a stand-alone version downloaded from the vcx website. I need to make a video of how to install this all and get it working, but it’s such a pain I swear sometimes I don’t even know what I did to make it work. The version of GDS2 that works will trigger a virus warning so you’ll need to shut down any and all virus programs. And be ok with a virus.
Whoa! Wait. At 4:00 you say you connect your VCX Nano to your computer and into your car like everyone plugs stuff into their car all the time. What are those lights at your feet?
Hi Erik. This short tutorial is about using a VCX Nano. It’s a pretty handy (sometimes frustrating) tool for GM vehicles. The 2 lights you see are a red power light and a blue data light. Check it out on Amazon.
I don’t think it means the inverter is bad. There are some polls being done in the Volt Facebook groups to understand who can and can’t do this. Sometimes it worked for me, sometimes I had to reprogram the HPCM2 module. I have another video on that. It’s just as easy.
So, you said you had to replace all that yourself so… does it take a special kind of coolant/fluid? It seems the anti-tamper bracket would also prevent you from topping up.
Yes it uses premix dexcool only. (Or a 50/50 blend of dexcool and deionized water.) The system should never require topping up unless something springs a leak. But that anti-tamper bracket is an absolute joke.
Quick question. I cleared my code and gds2 will move to the next screen, but the code was never removed. Does this mean the actual problem has not been fixed, or that I need to use techline connect instead?
I would check your coolant levels, and perhaps swap the sensor with a new one if they’re ok. If that doesn’t do it then I would look at reprogramming the HPCM2 module with techline connect.
And a video on how to reprogram the HPCM2 software. It’s funny how some times it can clear with a cheapie obd scanner, sometimes with a good one (or gds2), and sometimes it just needs a whole reflash. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eza-Y3oUnS4.html
Did the error come back in a few hours? I cleared my code with a cheap scan tool and it got rid of the code for a few hours but the code would come back always by the next day. Reflashing BCM and PCM with vcx nano finally fixed it.
On this car, it went away for a while then came back a few weeks or months later. I ended up flashing it to the older SW version that ignores the sensor. On my other car it only worked for a few hours. That one needed the HPCM2 flashed through SPS/TLC.
@@AustinWilhite it’s weird. On my 2012, it doesn’t give me an option. On my wife’s 2012 it asks if it is “with RESS” or “without RESS”. On that car I selected without RESS and then it ignores the sensor. That is only when reprogramming the HPCM2 module like in my other video though.
@@utjay2008 Thanks! This is great to know. I bet the difference between the two is that one came with the sensor from the factory and the other had it installed post delivery at the dealer. I believe my vehicle had the sensor installed by the dealer, so I'm hoping I have the "without RESS" option.
So i have been fighting with this issue since I replaced the hybrid battery a month ago or so in my 2012 volt. I tried my cheap obd2 scanner to clear the codes / warning and no luck it kind of just blinks and stays on. Then I went to the local shop snd we hooked his snap on diagnostic tool on which was way more high tech than mine and that did the same thing. So if I get this software I should be able to clear it without an issue? Was yours also unable to clear from a cheap obd2 scanner tool? I’m trying not to break the bank at the dealer and figured if this will work why not buy it and have it in case I need it for anything else with the car. Thanks!
Yes. The cheap readers were unable to clear it. I WAS able to clear it with the VCXNano / GDS2 (and I made another video about that). But this time only re-writing the software on the module would clear it. I’ve had to do it multiple times so I’m glad I bought the VCX.
@@utjay2008 Awesome I guess I will give it a shot then. I’ve got a older HP laptop do you think that should work for the software ? And is there a specific model to order?
My laptop is an old MacBook Pro with a windows partition through boot camp. As long as it can run windows 10 it should be fine. There are a few different VCXs out there. Just make sure you get the one for gm. (I think there’s a universal one out there too that might work ???.) I picked mine up from Amazon. I don’t trust the VX diag website AT ALL.
@@utjay2008 ok perfect yea I have windows 10 on it so should be good. And yea I saw a gm specific one on Amazon I was going to go with that. Says it will be here Wednesday so I’m going to give it a shot. Worst case scenario I’ll have to buy that AC Delco subscription right?
Yeah. Setting up GDS2 can be a pain, and it’s full of viruses. And once TLC is installed GDS2 won’t even work (unless VX DIAG releases an update). Basically I would count on buying that subscription. Im hoping to make video soon about how to set it all up.
Hello, I have an Ampera from 2012 and today had same issue message : High voltage system . I tried to check a Portuguese forum and they told that the battery has low level of water, to check that. After checking youtube all the people refer to the low coolant level on front. My question is if general battery is low I need to recharge it and see if there is any issue (is around 30% I check with my charger). If I unplug and plug the battery cable, may I reset this error or not ? Thank you so much.
Usually once the error pops up you have to verify the coolant level and then reprogram the HPCM2 software. Sometimes you can erase it like how I showed in my video. That’s really the only 2 ways we know of. Good luck!
@@utjay2008 thanks a lot for the fast answer. I was able to see that the coolant level are below the sticker (even insisde the minimum mark I guess). I`m charging the acid battery cause it`s too low. What about the OBD2 that I need to buy ? Do you know if there is any cheap to connect to the mobile phone as I have no pc withou windows xp or vista ? Thank you in advance. Luis
@@utjay2008 , thank you for the tip. But after that I still need to clear the error right ? I was checking this device ELM 327 BLUETOOTH INTERFACE OBD2 E OBD - ANDROID - PC, think it can help clearin the code later. I`ll give feedback later when apply those tips. Thank you!
Just saw your comment. I have a video about how the sensor works and how to replace it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tZI58rLRUb4.html
@@utjay2008 thanks! I actually replaced the sensor since then. But Still cant clear the error. I have a scanner that reads and resets the errors but not luck. Unplugged the battery for a bout a day just to see if that would help and still got the error. Any thoughts would be helpful and thanks!!
@@USMC-1 you’ll probably need to flash the software on the HPCM2 module. You can use a VCX Nano or MDI Clone (or MDI if you’re rich lol). Here’s a video I put together a while back on how to do it. Using Techline Connect and a VCX Nano to fix Chevy Volt Service High Voltage Charging System Error ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eza-Y3oUnS4.html
I own 2014 Volt started driving with 41 electric miles, when it changed from battery to gas the check engine light came on, turned off the engine and tried to restart with no luck, towed to the nearest dealership they performed a diagnostic (charged $200 Dollars). I was told that the entire battery pack needs to be replaced at a cost of $16,000 Dollars. Does anyone knows of better solution? The vehicle has less than 88K miles driven most on battery power.
Oof. My older 2012 has been doing similar. Seems to be an issue with battery temp. I usually just pull over, shut it off, open the door and restart it. Works fine for a while. But that’s typically a ‘12 issue.
I had had a similar issue happen to me last year during summer. I was driving fine, had about 1-2 electric miles left, parked at a store, left store and as I was pulling out the parking lot, car just stopped accelerating and slowed down to a stop. I assume it went to gas and then that's when it happened (similar to you going from electric to gas). I know my 12v battery was still good because all the dash lights and radio were on. Plus I replaced it a couple months before. I tried starting the car several times but it wouldn't start. Only dash lights and radio. Had someone come help try to jump start it but still nothing. I eventually got it towed to the dealership. A couple weeks later they call me and say that my 12v was dead. I told them that's not the reason why I originally brought it in. I told him that if it's dead now it's because there's a live wire somewhere that drained the 12v and they just left it sitting for 2 weeks, but that's not why it died on my 2 weeks ago. They argued blah blah blah, said that it was going to be 360 dollars for battery and labor. I begrudgingly accepted. A couple hours later they call back and tell me they have really bad news, that after replacing the 12v, it still won't start and that the high voltage battery would need to be replaced for 21,000 dollars. I told them get bent, that cost more than what I paid for the care, and that I want a refund for the other shit the were going to charge me. They said they'll refund me the labor but can't refund me the battery. Anyway, I picked it up and took it home a few days later. After letting it sit for a couple weeks, I came across an article on on gm-volt[.]com with someone with a similar scenario and they just tried jump starting it after letting it sit dead for a few weeks and it started. So I tried it, and guess what, it worked! I have no idea how. If you still have this issue (2 months later of your original post), try jump starting it again (from the engine bay of course).
