Fixed mine after watching this video. Pulled it apart and continuity tested the cable and also tested for shorted wires. Had shorts in the wires. Repair: (In summary as there was some jiggery required to get the larger diameter repair to fit inside the robot body) Stripped back then inner cable, making sure to leave the grey outer as protection at its original length. Prepared and soldered the 3 wires having first slipped 2 x layers of heatshrink up the leads. Then covered the join with the first heatshink layer, Added marine glue/sealant to the cable then slid the 2nd layer of heatshink over the join and set that in place. Finally filled the grey outer with the marine sealant and wrapped all around the repaired cable again. Cured for a couple of days. Next after reassembly and testing I then supported the cable from where it exits the robot body along the grey outer to the float using SPIRAL Wrap. Then Used/bent a coat hanger wire length, bent in 1/2 to go UNDER the handle, up the side next to the cable, bend 90deg to meet the cable, then 90deg to run up the cable. Turned over the ends of the wire at about 12cm above the robot lip. Used cable ties to fix the coat hanger wire support to the robot cable and thus fix the robot cable rigid vertically and support the cable after that with the Spirewrap. Pics here drive.google.com/drive/folders/19hjMuVEFBtELkYK7m-iX2431UuNUsQmB?usp=sharing Pool removal is now done only via a hook on the long handle of the pool scoop and using the robot floating handle, no pulling on the grey cable.
Man, I've fixed many things from computers to amps, TV software, etc. But your video saved me a lot of time. Thank you very much. By the way, I fixed the old cable. I removed the pins from the plastic by inserting a small tab on the front side all the way down to unclip it. A new wire joint had to be soldered because I couldn't separate the old one for crimping. Another problem was the intermittent power supply from the control box. Because of this, I removed the heatsink on the switch transistor to access the transformer wire solder points on the pins. It looks like it fell out and the weight made the transformer lean out of the socket, while the pins remained well-soldered. It broke the coil wires. I think there were 3 coils on that side. I re-soldered the wires for the pins and had to extend some.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I have the Polaris model of your pool vac. I enjoyed your pace, and explanation. I had my cord laced correctly, before you discovered yours was not. I had anxiety for you, and was relieved when you figured it out.. Again, good job, thank you. And.... My machine is in the pool working like a champ.
Your version of instructions is way beyond what I received... mine has NO pictures at all.. when you said goodbye I left... spent too many hours stuffing around with mine.. Only now I have just come back to watch the rest of your clip, Grrrrrr... Wish I'd watched it right to the end.. That was what I needed. Ended up pulling mine apart yet again as I couldn't get that darn screw out *(inside rattling around). Thanks again for taking the time to make this clip for us all in AUSTRALIA to watch someone human make a no holds bared video that actually makes sense. Aussie Sense...
Thanks for the video. At the 47 minute mark, re re-assembly with the new cable, the thin part of the cable is supposed to be looped once around one of the pegs, such that the thicker part is just aligned to be squashed (fixed) by the track assembly as it is screwed back into place.
The electrical plug comes apart easy, just unscrew the plastic cable clamp and push the cable in until the plug comes out. It's best to repair the cable at this plug, otherwise water ingress from a nearby heatshrink/tape repair will work its way through the inside of the cable and into the plug. It's difficult to get the plug terminals out without the proper tool so just cut the 3 existing wires off at the terminals about 5mm long and solder the prepared cable back on, keep the solder repair short so the wires cannot touch. Reassemble the plug smearing silicone grease or Vaseline on the parts that need water sealing.
You are the man! Thank you. Poorly executed seal around the motor box. Anyone want replacement parts then contact me I will send with a guide “how to replace”, or can drop unit to me and I will replace. Very frustrating unit, I have two units and the design guts are embarrassing
Wished you live near me... I'm struggling with two now... one just sits there, go but won't move... all the lights are on the panel as they should be... going but just won't move.. 2nd one the bloody dog chewed on the cord. I purchased a new cord thinking it was just a matter of clicking it on... :( then I discover I have to pull the entire thing to bits to replace... GRRRRR
Your video was excellent. Have you an answer for clearing the single flashing light on the console when only the console is plugged into the wall socket - as I can't remove the error I can't proceed to replace a faulty part Regards Craig
hi craig no need to clear the flashing light it will go out once the robot is repaired and plugged back in if you only have the control box plugged in at the power socket and not the robot plugged into it the control box will pick that it is not plugged in and the error light wont stop flashing and if you plug the robot in as well and it is not in the pool the light will flash it will pick up the robot in not in the water so work out what is wrong with the robot fix that plug it all back in and test it with the robot in the pool if the robot is fixed the light wont come on if it does come on the robot still has an issue with it
Hey Anthony, loved watching your video. I'm struggling with two now... one just sits there, goes ok but won't move along to pool... all the lights are on the panel as they should be going but the unit just won't move along the pool.. 2nd one the bloody dog chewed on the cord, I taped it up as it wasn't where it went into the water, and it worked great for a few weeks then nothing, I keep getting an error message. I purchased a new cord thinking it was just a matter of clicking it on... :( then I discover I have to pull the entire thing to bits to replace with new cable... GRRRRR Can I pull it down to where you are at 14:18 on your video clip and replace it there without having to pull the entire thing to bits? Is there an easier way... Appreciate any advice.. Thanks in advance..
I have the same problem. The motor is working as the robot is sucking but not moving. I opened it all up and on the gearbox side the teeth had worn off the gears so the robot wouldn’t move. A new gearbox costs about AUD$100. I would suggest replacing the tracks/tyres too. I suspect my gearbox failed as a result of old tracks which had stretched and allowed too much movement in the gears which worn them down.
