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*LIKE THIS SO OUR BOY JIMBO CAN SEE* The big thin washer that was behind the old crank timing gear, (obviously this car has had a timing belt done previously as this is installed incorrectly..) it's supposed to go back on AFTER the gear/belt and held against the gear by the crank pulley damper, making it impossible for the belt to walk further than the edge of the pulley, I've seen and experienced this exact problem with other engines, the washer should have a slight chamfer/angled edge on the outside that points towards the crank pulley damper when installed. The only other thing it could be is one of the new idler/tensioners are spaced out a hair more but if it is enough to make it walk off the gears you would be able to see this fairly easily looking at the motor side on
I think you’re right, I just commented the same thing and realized you said it already lol it’s the only thing I can think of that wouldn’t be noticeable right away
- you’re 100% correct. I’ve done the timing belt on my z32 many times and when I put the crank pulley and everything on, turned the engine to see if it’s all straight, I had the same issue as Jimbo. Then I noticed I forgot I had that big washer that goes behind the crank gear. The chamfer/curled edge is to guide the belt to the center. For his issue, I believe the belt is touching and moving towards the oil pump cover as it turns. Hopefully he reads this.
Who else can say they never miss an episode Jimmy puts out? I feel like I watch his episodes more then my OWN!! Haha 😂 Love the content Jimmy you truly motivate the heck out of me!
Pretty sure you’re missing a washer that goes on the crank to keep the belt aligned. Not savvy with these engines but I’ve built and changed out plenty of Honda engines that utilizes washers on belt driven engines.
OMG! Imagine! That's all he needs! I've been down those rabbit holes with my builds, 3 weeks and tons of cursing just to feel like a total ash from one "GOD DANG MOTHER FRICKEN WASHER" lol. Ahh I hope he see's this comment.
@@BrokePremiere lol, yeah as he was messing around with this. I thought to myself I wish these videos were live so we can help and trouble shoot problems lol. Would of saved a lot of head ache for ole jimmy 😅
I dont think that new kit has room for that on the outside anymore. Perhaps he was supposed to eliminate the washer behind as well? Couldn't tell from the footage if that stayed on for the install, but it looked kinda banged up just before he installed the new kit.
You have no idea how comforting it is to know that other people have tons of dumb issues that pile up for no reason on them when they’re working on a project.
Hey Jimmy I just started this year working on cars for my university (I’m tryin’ to become an engineer 👨🏼🎓) and I finally realized how hard it can be. Now I truly appreciate you hard work!!! Keep it up you are amazing.
Brooooo im glad im not the only one who went through this kinda pain, but man that 33 is sexy as all hell dude congrats. I recently finished reassembling my ej255 with rebuilt heads and other goodies aswell as a fresh Gates timing kit with a kevlar belt. Well one of my variable oil controlled cams jumped 1 tooth advanced with no explanation. Could watch my left and right variable intake cam system fight eachother on the datalogger. Theyd be fine and out of nowhere one cam would be at 20° the other at 40°. Reset the timing, started it, same shit. Tore it back down, re timed it again! Spun it over by hand several times, everything checked out. Put back together again, same shit. Ordered a different kit, this one having nothing but OEM bearings, Mitsuboshi belt and even a waterpump to boot. Tore all the gates crap off, followed the service manual, bled tensioner (hydraulic auto adjusting), re assembled amd rechecked the timing and even had other eyes verify it aswell just to be sure. Started it, didnt even run a full fan heat cycle let alone get past 180°F before a heavy misfire occurred and i just shut it down cleaned shop and just slept. Did some research, got a general idea what the problem is, but man dude the anxiety throughout this endeavor has been brutal.
I like that kit. Looks way cleaner then a wire sticking out of the crank. Also I think it makes it look more built. You figure it would have the covered wire look originally so it looks cleaner
Jimmy, i think that the belt problem is from you undoing the bolts on the exhaust cam, while the belt was under tension. When you put the bolts back in and tightened them, they weren't torqued the same and that makes that cam gear crooked which is making the belt walk
I had walking on my rb25 s2, it was because there was a plate behind the crank gear that holds the belt from coming forward, and a there is supposed to be a plate infront of the gear it's a plate for the crank gear to hold the belt from coming off !!!FRONT PLATE! FOR CRANK GEAR! IS WHAT YOUR MISSING, THERE IS A BACK PLATE AND FRONT PLATE TO HOLD THE BELT FROM WALKING OFF
I feel you pain. The entire day I was under my Mk1 golf. The engin mount broke apart. Sucks. And tried changing the coil pack again but still nothing then found I had no fuel pressure so I changed the the fuel pump. And now it's dark..... I need a garage
Jimmy the crank that washer on the inside should be on the outside to keep the belt from walking and you have it on the inside of the crank sprocket put it on the outside
Not bad kid! 👍 getting there, I also agree that's a very beautiful Cam kit thinking about picking one up myself 💯... Side note I was just about to ask where our boy Bri bri was, wondering if I was the only one missing him. Knowing he's probably busy with work at his shop.... When's the s13 going to be finished??!
Hey jimmy, i had the same problem with my rb25. It was because i forgot to put one of the whasers on the bottom crank gear. It looks like you cant use the front one because of your new trigger gear.
your idler pulleys have built in spacers to keep pulley under the belt, this spacer has a flat edge that meets the block. THAT is what determins if your idler pulley is sitting square to the block or if it sits crooked causing a belt to walk.. place idler pulley on level surface, then use a level on face of pulley to see if face of pulley is level with your mating surface. this will tell you if your pulley spacer is causing idler pulley to sit crooked. the bolt itself dosent have to be perfectly straight, again as the pulley spacer itself is what keeps the pulley square to the block.. check your idler pulley spacers are squared.
For when you put your balancer back on, make sure you have it in 5th gear when tightening it with someone having their foot on the brake and also make sure you use the rb25 torque specs, not the 26 spec!
Jimmy you gotta come see me at Lebanon Ford Performance! Get you a 2021 F-150! We do supercharged truck builds as well and can do as much or as little as you’d like!
I was doing a timing belt on my 01 tundra with the 2uz v8 and so I had the cams aligned but just by me working around in the engine bay the driver side cam was a tiny bit off so I went to move it back with a Rachet and all of a sudden the cam turned 90° to the left while I was turning it back to the right to tdc. Fuckin scared me so bad cause I'd didnt know what happened and I thought I fucked my valves up. The valve springs probably put off so much pressure that it over came the gears in the rachet and turned or something. Anyway I careful set it back to tdc after and went to change out my underwear while I watched your vids lol. Truck runs fine now so thank God I didn't fuck em up
Nissan tensioner studs are typically a consumable item when doing the timing belt service otherwise they tend to snap. You need more friends used to VGs when working on non-SR Nissan motors lol
Jimmy's law 1, the time you estimated to finish your project, multiply it by pi (3.142) Jimmy's law 2, whatever that moves, torque them to spec. Yes it's weird but it helps in the long run Jimmy's Law 3, to be determined.....
timing belts handle ass loads of torque as that is what links you pistons to your valves.. be very very very hard to stretch or deform just from tightening underdrive pulley,
Is there supposed to be a shim behind the belt drive gear?? I’d imagine if it was too far towards the crankcase it would try to walk outwards on the cam gears no?
What a shitter dude! 😞 You could see the life draining out of you as it started to go wrong. 🙈 Good sleep and back at it and all will be sound! 👌😁 Keep up the awesome work Jimmy.
Does the RB Rebuild kit still allow you to put the guide washer on the crank pulley? I didn't see if it was still there when you put it together, but the rounded washer on the crank is whats supposed to keep the belt from walking
I'm quite sure the washer is not used with the kit. I'm guessing the belt is bad or the bottom gear is not seated correctly. I don't agree with the OEM torque spec, doesn't make sense to me that the RB25 is tightened to like 150nm while the RB26 is 400.
Yeah I had the same problem There’s a washer that aligns Sabelle bell if it’s forgotten the belt will slide off and jump timing What happened to my boys 300z and the rb in my buddy’s 240
Some belts make noise i have a dayco uprated belt it makes noise on warm up then goes silent my mate has hks purple belt and it does the same thing i think genuine belts are silent but they are all good for 100 thousand miles easy did my research on this subject
