I spent 20 years as a mechanic in an OMC dealership. The two horse motor ran good. As long as it had a good compression when it was lowered from where it was the orneriness motor you could find it lives on compression. I was glad when the parts dried up, so I didn’t have to fix any more two horse motors, you gave it a good effort.
I can attest to everything you said brandon. I started my channel for fun and it turned into an obsession. I got lucky in the beginning but def wasted a TON of time and money on junk outboards. but Im glad I did and continue to do so!! Its become a fun hobby and passion and thanks to you, Im SO much better than I was when i started!
I've owned a e2rcoc 1985 model for over 20 years. She pushes my 12ft vhull 5mph wot!! Just serviced the water pump, and new seals on the lower yesterday. Thank you for your informational videos. She's a one pull pony
Thanks for posting, always mostly entertaining. You seem like a good Dad, your patient with your son even when things are not as smooth as they can be. Keep growing your channel and having fun out there.
Great comments at the end mentioning evaluating when to get rid of something and the time/cost comparison. I bought a Johnson 2.0 1993 for $100 that wasn't running. I'm currently down $50-60 in parts (head gasket, sealer, piston rings, etc) +tools I needed for testing it (compression tester, flywheel removal tool, etc). Now I'm about $200+ into it and don't have it fixed yet. I could have bought a cheap amazon one for that much, or a decent long tail for a couple hundred more and less time tinkering.
Great video… highly entertaining . I had one of those 2 hp motors as an auxiliary the 1980’s and it pushed my 22 foot Star class yacht around great! It did run pretty rough even from new, but did the job
Well, I can honestly say that I am so glad I gave up on this one.Your deep parts bin, expertise, tools and experience working on these little old outboards really shines in this video! I am sorry it didn't explode spectacularly or provide the satisfaction of being a sweet little runner.
I don’t give Wayneno credit he bought all those parts and could’ve put it all back together again and he shipped it off to you I think always videos are a failure
Thank you for all your videos I have learned so much from all of them. I adopted almost all old evenrude’s Can’t afford new ones So I fix old ones and we use them.
I always enjoy your videos and by watching them you've helped me revive a 79 9.9 Johnson outboard. I hope your channel grows to a point where you can make some return on these videos.
your homemade seal puller idea is just what I needed to remove the grease drive shaft seal on my Johnson 1947 TD-20. I think the legs just need to be longer to get down to it. I have a 3hp 65 and water passages were all clogged up. got it cleaned but need to replace the head gasket and exhaust. The compression is only around 60 on both cylinders but on the water not much get up and go but that could be the fact it needs a head gasket. Will see? after watching this it could be stuck rings
For a "Not Expert" i must say you have a shit ton of knowledge on OMC motors. Respect! 25:50 I think this is the first time i've seen the cam/throttle adjustment shown in a video.
@@BrandonsGarage The expertise or the adjustment? (LOL) Never seen a video about the low speed needle adjustment either. And how to correctly tighten the packing. Some people don't have a clue about the basic stuff.
@Viceroy well the packing nuts are confusing. Parts manual says you need 3 for the top, and 3 for the bottom, and an inner washer on both. Service manual says 2 on top, no washer, 3 on bottom with washer. Carb kit comes with 4.
@@BrandonsGarage Do you have a video on the packing? I've seen you do it a bunch of times. Looks like you use 2 or 3 on the bottom, and then screw in the brass? I need to do that tomorrow on an old Johnson 9.9 I rebuilt the carb a couple years ago, but never changed the packing, because it seemed decent. And, it ran good but had hot restart issues?
hola muchas gracias por la informacion es de mucha utilidad pues tengo un motor igual y ocupo de esta informacion muy agradecido. seguire de cerca tus videos.
Having a junk pile really helps on parts availabilility for old stuff. On unrelated topic..I bought a 2cyl 8hp outboard for a little project boat, and the guy ran when I bought it, but after bring it home it would not run any more and I checked compression on cyl 2 it was only like 30psi. The cylinder seems fine, looks like the rings have just lost their 'spring'. After a lot of research, I found a video where they 'restored' the rings by heating them up and then quenching them. Have you tried this for any of your old engines where rings may not be available anymore? I think they are still avalable for this motor, but I don't want to sink any more expense into it, and fixing old rings was a new thing I've never tried. thanks, love the videos
I bought a 1976 2 Johnson that I still own. Mine vibrates just like yours. I remember the dealership at the time said that the engine vibrates so much is because it is only a single piston.
I have the same year 2hp Evinrude. It will start and run, but only in the start position. If I throttle up or down, it dies. What adjustments would you recommend?
Is it doable to put an extended throttle cable on this outboard (bicycle brake style)? I picked this same outboard up with the purchase of a sportspal s13 a few years ago. I wanted the canoe and didn't give 2 sh***s about the outboard but now I'm wanting to fix the outboard. Rotating around in a flat back canoe to deal with a throttle such as this one is no fun especially at 5 a.m. in frigid temps. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
In spite of the fact that you didn't get a real satisfactory outcome, The video is of some use to anyone who is trying to fix one of one of these. I was gifted with a 2 hp Johnson. So far I have only 20 bucks for the cam follower (Crowley Marine) and a a few hours invested. Maybe after I get the carb cleaned and check the timing cam settings It will start. Thanks for the video.
Could you tell me the thread pitch for the screws that go thu the cover thu the air silencer into the carburetor, please? The little Motor got louder on the last trip out. Things must have vibrated loose and went swimming as they were not in the bottom of the boat.....
What would cause the front of my cowling to have a small gap and not go on flush Pull cord only pulls when its off Cannot pull when it seated Even when i dont bolt it on Grwat video by the way
That is an SCE 1210 bearing in the upper and lower and the bearing housing can be taken apart as well. Get the bearings from Motion industrial for about $8.00 as oppose to a OMC dealer for $24.00. The oil seal in the housing is 1.25x.75.
Found them from Zoro too, also $8. Debating on new bearings, piston, and rings for the original powerhead, or just make the 1972 green one that much better.
I've got two of these engines, non-running, that I plan on fixing. Assuming these are crankshaft bearings we're talking about. 1.25 x .75 x ? Is that in inches and what's the height on that seal? And does a non-oem option exist for the con rod bearings?
The seal is a CR oil seal CRW1 #7439. 1 1/4 OD (bore seal) x 3/4 ID (shaft dia) x 0.188 Width. The crankshaft bearings are 1" ODx3/4" IDx 5/8 width. SCE#1210 or Koyo J-1210. There are a seal and bearing as described in the upper and same seal and bearing in the bearing housing as well. The bottom bearing housing can be taken apart using a blow torch and tapping it. You do not have to buy another bearing housing. The bearings and seals can purchased through Motions Industries INC, and Amazon.
Unfortunately, I have been unable to locate a source for the connecting rod roller bearings( non- OEM) through another source yet, but if anyone knows, let us know as well.
It looks like Carb issue. All of these engines have spring loaded Butterfly Valve Rods. And the bushings of this Rod on the Spring side is often oval. There is no new Carb availeble. Only fix are 2-3 rouds of Teflon Tape on the Rod and an additional O-Ring on the Rod. So engine wont die at low RPM. Sorry for my poor english, I am german. I like your Videos, very good job you do.
Had exactly the same story going on with my Johnson 2HP. Got it running, but its dying off after 10-15 minutes. Already spent too much on it with all the gaskets, bearings, jets, and so forth. Tuning the carb adjusters is not changing much, so I am suspecting that the thing is drawing some "Nebenluft" as we call it in Germany. Unwanted air going through the crankshaft seal or something. Stopped working on this thing 3 years ago, but it is calling me again 😏
What type of material would you say is used for the head, manifold and lower powerblock-to-leg gaskets are made of? Feels like some sort of rubber. Would like to buy a sheet of it if I could figure out what it is.
I know it's not regular rubber, but has that sort of feel. Something for high temp as it's used in the head and intake manifold gaskets. Looks like OEM gaskets. Was kind of hoping you would know. Thanks for the video - good stuff. @@BrandonsGarage
I have a habit of fixing things that are old and putting too much money in them. I don’t care if it makes sense from a money perspective, I just like saving something old. All our stuff is old, just like me, but it all works.
I recently purchased the same model year evinrude 2HP motor along with two other motors for $300. Needed to rebuild the magneto, replace the tank, buy the missing tank clips and knobs, and replace the water pump. Then needed to weld up the transom bracket which had a big chunk missing. It does seem to run well but I still paid just over $300 in to fix a motor that isn't worth that much. I think I need to come to my senses and realize that I'm not going to make money on this outboard.
my 9.9 evinrude E10RENA has 60 psi compression on one hole, 70 on the other.. will this motor run with those compression numbers? I cant even get it to start,, it has great spark... new fuel pump, new fuel lines, fresh fuel
@@BrandonsGarage I went thru my carb again, im thinking my float height was off, and not letting enough fuel in to the carb to reach the main nozzle. yesterday I took the carb off, squirted 50/1 premix into the reed block, and the engine started and ran smooth for around 6 seconds... I really dont understand how the jet well, little rubber tube. top of carburetor and all its little channels work, but do know the engine vacuum is supposed to suck fuel vapor into the intake via the venturi., the plastic nozzle jet sits high up out of the bowl, why its like this I dont know.,,. hopefully someone will come up with a mod for this well jet design, as every carb I open has a cracked well jet.. and they arent cheap... not sure how critical the well jet is though, as I have one 8 hp with a cracked well jet, or jet well that runs great.. I adjusted the float and mounted the carb back on last night.,. I will try it soon and report what it does.. or doesnt do. I recall this same scenario happened to a little motorbike I had a long time ago,,, I kept having this notion creep in,,,check the float,, Also, I found these 2 strokes do not like to start on starting fluid ,,, they like some lubrication with the flammables... thanks
@@BrandonsGarage pulled the carb and have little or no suction at intake reed plate... im wondering, if I have a partially blown head gasket, bad reeds, or worn rings or cylinders... when I squirt pre mix into the reed block it fires right up , sounds smooth, no knocking ..,what would you do next? it looks like a challenge to remove the reed plate, like the powerhead has to come off..,. if I pull the head , and dont see any issues with the head gasket, im still kind of stumped.. when I opened the throttle all the way, the compression went from 60/70 to 70/ bottom ans 80 top cylinder.. the bottom consistently shows around 10 psi less...
All that the eccentric screw does is to make it a bit easier to adjust the point gap. If I had one snap off.....I would just set the points and move on. No reason to scrap the mag plate IMHO
Judging by the long crack in your concrete floor, you must've seen pissed off at that motor as you smashed it to the ground in a total rage scattering parts everywhere. Temper temper....
These Evinrude 2 HP are notorious for overheating. You can replace the impeller and it may NOT fix the problem. As you did...purchase a water pump retrofit kit and that will do it.
When a two horse like that is in good shape, it has around 135 to 140 pounds compression I’ve worked on several hundred of these motors and check the compression in everyone that motor will run but like a piece of crap. The compression is low it’s wore out.
