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That explanation (and demo) made the whole thing so obvious and simple, but also the 1st time I've seen it on any channel. Brilliant hack to add to the tool box. Thanks Matt. 👍
I tried the trick shown ny Andrew Boey, but it didn't work for me for Shutter Speeds of 1/1000 or even 1/500. I tried it with Canon EOS 80 D and two Godox TT 520ii Flashes (one as a Master & another as a Slave) the first time. Second time I tried it with TT 520ii (as a Master) & TT 685C (as a Slave).
May work with Nikon, doesn't work with other brands. Pentax for example, camera doesn't send signal to fire unless HSS equipped flash or trigger is attached. @Matt - (not sure where I read this, but,..) Some part of HSS is more about syncing the flash to the sensor scanning, not just the shutter leaf movement. Terminator Genesis is cited as a prime example of where a muzzle flash can be seen across the bottom of one scanned frame, and the top of the next frame. This is also why HSS needs to be applied when the Electronic Shutter is used for silent operation.
Hi Matt, Although I have newer HSS Flashes, I have a Yongnuo YN622C-TX E-TTL and a Yongnuo YN622C (Although they are Canon versions, they also come for Nikon YN622N instad of C). These triggers have an SS (Super Sync) Mode that allows my old non HSS Flashes to shoot at up to 1/8000 sec. The SS Mode creates a delay of some sorts that makes the flash output for a longer time. Put the flash on top of the YN622N Module and set to Full Power, Put the YN622N-TX on the Camera and set the flash group in SS Mode. Now you can take a shot at 1/8000 with your old flash, no black bars :-)
That’s pretty neat! I was aware of the issues in the studio, but never really thought about how it wouldn’t really affect the background outdoors! Thanks for the great tip! And hi Steph!
Another good way to do this is use a Speedlite that supports HSS,and buy the bracket that allows you to fit your softbox onto it. Not expensive and you're in full control
This is a good video and I especially like the hack of turning the camera to compose in portrait orientation. I think this will only work with certain camera bodies, mostly much older ones. My D3100, for example, locks the shutter at 1/200th when a flash is activated or attached. The same applies to my D7200, locking at 1/250th, but that body will work with a flash with HSS.
Nice realistic approach! This is something gear oriented camera-hobbyists sometimes cannot see at all. Nicely done. What about the sync speed. It is perhaps bit philosophical, but that is actually the cameas shutters fastest mechanical speed. As after that there is gimmick to make is "faster" what it is not, sync-speed is always the cameras shutters fastest speed. You can have faster speed on certain part of frame, but as globally on whole frame, that is THE speed. Rarely that is a problem, but still: that is a fact.
Even though I don't do portraits and very rarely use any kind of flash (camera doesn't have one and my old flashes work, but as far as I know not with ttl and such) I still learnt something, up till today I've always thought it was the other way around, that 1/250th is the maximum speed and any faster won't work :-) it all makes sense now, thanks for a great video Matt!
waw, that was superinteresting, i never knew a flash could make such a difference, i realy like how the model the model is put away from the background
I did a quick staff photo for a local business a few weeks ago where I had only brought a single speedlight and no ND filter. I used this method to let me shoot at a bigger aperture and 1/400 of a second. Kind of funny that you posted a video about this. Now I don't feel like such a hack knowing that at least one other person has done this ;) Good video Matt.
This is a very good tip. It really does take some planning though. I got a similar effect using ND filters with flash which i was really pleased with. But I really like this method, provided the framing works out.
You can actually break sync speed right up to 1/5000 and so on by using your camera's flash as the master and your off camera flash in slave mode and simply set in camera and off camera flash to full power. At full power the flash stays on longer, allowing faster shutter speeds without the curtain interfering. Only down fall is that your only control over flash light strength is to move closer of further from your subject.
Please more videos of flashphotography where we can see the background exposure first and then with flash added. It helps amateurs like me to understand how the flash photos are exposed in different situation and looks!
He explains it pretty well in this one and has many more flash videos on his channel. Just search the channel for "flash". ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ibHXIyAsxog.html
Great tip Matt. I had tried to mess around with this concept before. On my flashes I can manually control the frequency of pulses and was going to try work out some calculations where the pulse frequency matched the shutter speeds above 1/200, Unfortunately once a flash is connected to my DSLR Nikon D5500, shutter speeds above 1/200 are firmware disabled so it's just not possible to apply this hack. I have also tried this with remote triggers but its stil the same. Anything over 1/200 is disabled in camera. :-(
Another way to hack the HSS look without a lot of the gear is to use an HSS speedlite on camera to optically trigger your other lights whether they are strobes or other speedlites.
That's a solid tip! I had done something similar in the past with a full-frame camera by setting it to APS-C crop mode, but the idea to use an open area around the close subject and selective framing is a great idea.
PocketWizard have a feature called Hypersync that alters the flash trigger time so the whole flash duration is mapped better relative to shutter curtain travel. This defeats High Speed Sync that needs pulsating flashes at reduced power. Disclaimers and compatibility apply.
Is it just me? Or, is Steph the most Exquisitely Beautiful and lively model you've ever seen? You're a Very lucky man Mr Granger to be in her presence and too work with her.
But the pocket wizard doesn't supply the functionality of the video. I have 2 sets of $14 wireless neewer triggers that I use. Anything he is doing here, I can do with my triggers. Now, if he starts talking about changing the power and altering sync speeds with the triggers, then we have a problem. But their function in this video to just trigger the flash, which can be done on a budget.
If you use an optical trigger with a sync cable you can beat it then as well, allegedly the flash gets the message a nano second faster. I’ve seen it done, but it isn’t as pretty as hss by a long way.
Hmmm another little trick to remember, cheers Matt, (although I think my D750 gives me a black line at the bottom not the top)(or am I just holding my camera wrong ? hee hee )
Great to see Budget O'graphy coming back. And wonderful to see Steph looking greater than ever. About your little trick (I wouldn't call it a hack), it's a very neat idea, and well explained. But only up to about two thirds of a stop? I wish I could believe it was useful. Can you give me a situation where it could make an important difference? Well, anyway, even my oldest flash, bought over twenty years ago, has hi speed sync. The Canon 380ex. I'll admit it wasn't a budget flash, but it was the cheapest one I found worth buying. I tried a “Sunpak 4000” first, and it was pretty much unusable.
This did not address the title of the video. This just showed how to still take a good picture with the side-effects of going pat 1/250th, but it did not show "how to go past" your camera's sync speed. My camera literally will not allow me to increase the speed beyond 1/250...it just stops there. I can't force it to go any faster. Showing "how" to do that is what's showing "how to go past the camera's sync speed". Please re-title the video and the description so it's more accurate for people searching for this info. Current description: "Today we show you how to go past your camera's sync speed..."
This does NOT WORK on Pentax, since camera will not give any signal to flash if 1/180 is exceeded. The only way is to attach HSS capable flash or Cactuss V6ii trigger that emulates HSS flash and camera does trigger flash up to 1/8000 than.
@@angelisone NO, it will not allow more than 1/180 if anything non HSS is attached to hotshoe. If Cactus V6ii is attached to hotshoe than it will allow flash to fire beyond X-sync, but it will not sync at all - black image - if HSS is not enabled. But V6ii have so called "power sync" where flash fires at full power and that enables eny flash (non HSS) to go up to 1/8000. So the basinc answer still valid: Trick in the video does NOT work on Pentax. Never did.
How about budget Strobes like the Neewer F3-500, How to set it up for use with Nikon and/or Canon cameras and for HSS as well. The remote trigger I find somewhat complicated to try and configure and the manual, which was apparently translated from Chineese to English..badly... is no help. I believe it's the same trigger used in the F1-400 Strobe as well and maybe a few others.
High speed sync with any camera Speed lights have a unique feature compared to traditional studio strobes, The flash duration can be extremely short or long in this example the long flash duration is what you want. With the speed light at full power output it has the longest flash duration which is typically around one 500th of a second so if you have a shutter speed of say 1/1000 of a second the strobe light is on twice as long as the shutter is opened there for no banding occurs. You could go as high as your cameras maximum shutter speed and experience the same phenomena so long as the shutter speed is faster than the flash duration time this trick will always work.
Yeah, BUT.....the hack doesn't ALLOW for the end results/"Look" offered by a HSS technique and a max open lens aperture to achieve it. Or go the ND route.
What is the sync speed of your main camera?? See my full course at www.mattgranger.com/ocf Gear used (Amazon links) Camera: Nikon D200: geni.us/d200 Lens 50mm: geni.us/Aa9c Cheapo flash: geni.us/vokngflsh light stand: geni.us/manf5001b softbox: geni.us/godoxSB Triggers (NOT budget): geni.us/zMQ2FSe
@5:15 please wear two mics (one on each side - like: on each lapel) or you could try using one stereo mic in the center of your shirt (in line with your adam's apple) but that wouldn't be as good...so we don't get this terrible recording quality. Even using tons of audio signal compression is not going to fix this completely, and remember: every time you use compression you raise the noise floor because of the makeup gain used post compression. If you have good audio processing you can set it up to balance the signal between the two mic sources (it might be called "side chain") so it will in effect even out the level so it doesn't get louder or quieter as he turns his head. Then use the compression on that resultant signal and voila' - you have a much better sound quality. This is the problem with most video engineers, they don't know sound engineering. But then - I don't know the first thing about color grading so we all need to help each other out. ;-) Cheers!
