they didnt tell the guy about the crazy amounts they wedged between and on top every cinder-block lmfao thats not good...its not just a layer on the inside wall ....they mortared the damn thing with it lmfao
I can't believe you guys are just getting on board with this sort of stuff. Forget the sheet membranes, what a pita! Been using this sort of stuff in Australia for 39 years and never failure. Tile over it!! Perfect.
I used gorilla waterproof patch & seal on my metal roof last year, the white variety to help keep it cooler and enhance my solar panel efficiency. It works good so far, but next time, I might have to get this stuff.
@@mangeloadYa and that same stuff was reinvented under the new name of “FlexSeal” hah. It’s all stupid marketing ploys to introduce the product to the DIYers who never seen the product in the roofing aisle of Hime Depot 😂😊
There was a known contractor in northern Illinois that put basement pools in almost all homes he built. I knew someone with one of these homes, and I was more interested in the pool than the individual. 😂 so cool
Using these in addition to the tactics already in place for buildings would be an amazing addition for preventing water damage and leaks. Brilliant invention.
Putting this on interior basement walls that are below grade will ensure (a) that the coating fails and (b) that the basement walls deteriorate because you trap water in them behind the coating. Also, because these coating are one monolithic sheet when they dry, if the surface isn't PERFECTLY clean, any area that bubbles or releases will tear the rest of the coating off
You make no sense as below grade is already very humid at all times in some soil compositions. Which means your walls are already constantly letting water vapor through. They are never dry. Your logic fails as this would mean foundations are failing everywhere in those conditions. Simply not true.
@@djvj1 🙄 another example of people talking without knowing anything. Foundation walls that are below grade are always absorbing moisture. Yes, they are always wet. This moisture wicks to the face of the walls and evaporates which is why most basements below grade are always damp. When you put non breathable coatings on interior basement walls you TRAP that moisture in the wall. That is the issue. My logic hasn't failed, your knowledge has. There's a difference between a 30-year contractor and you.
@@cristopherfrakes1416 you also just agreed with me by saying they are always constantly absorbing moisture. It never stops because the underground never has no moisture unless it stops raining! Passing through or sitting is all the same, wet is wet.
@@djvj1 yeah that's not how it works. Water sitting inside masonry rots it. All contractors know that, but you can keep on believing bullshit if you'd like. They say the difference between ignorant and idiot is that the idiot refuses to cure the ignorance.
@@djvj1The contractor is correct and you are wrong. You should stop the water intrusion on the outside of a foundation and not inside. This coating has its place but it’s a very narrow niche. It will not be a panacea for everything. These types of coatings can come off from hydrostatic pressure and even create water balloon effect that hang down the wall like a sagging nut sack. So the stretching feature is not that useful.
To make a pool or to keep water out of your basement? I ask because if you have water pressure building on the outside of your house your basement would quickly become a bunch of big water balloons. If you were to paint this on the outside maybe. This cant be a basement water solution…
@@thetruthexperimentinterior basement wall application wouldn't have to deal with bulk water penetration, just seepage, so should never seew water balloon volumes
I wouldn’t apply this to interior basement walls that will create more of a problem by holding any moisture that comes in from the outside against the wall behind the waterproofing. If your basement walls leak you need to fix them from the outside don’t just paint a bandaid on.
I agree, this is more of a home flipper's product, just to sell the home fast with a leaky basement. Ideally you'd apply this from the outside not the inside LOL.
@@ONeillsJimbaLounge well my homes a farm house that was built in the 30s there’s no waterproofing and the foundation is stones that the farmer found in his fields and cemented together. Not all foundations are brand new and waterproofed. And I’ve went into basements to fix walls that have block walls and waterproofing on them and guess what they have bubbles in the paint or whatever is applied to the walls you know what’s underneath that bubble soft wet concrete that we dig out let dry then repair. The tar and visqueen on the outside isn’t a permanent thing and can fail and leak after years of being underground. Only way to truly fix it is to dig up the foundation and retar and visqueen it. So again I wouldn’t put that on interior basement walls. I’ve been on jobs where we cut out a trench an apply drainage in the basement floor even that system doesn’t truly stop the leak it just directs the water to sump in the basement only way to stop it is to go outside and dig up the foundation and apply new tar and plastic. Also the guys in the video said to apply it to interior basement walls which imo is a bad idea.
@@Gastly_GhostI'm thinking even a waterproof coating on the outside, below grade, is a bad idea. Water will certainly get on the wall above grade and trickle down so it's in between the waterproof layer and the house. Then it can't escape out so it can only go in. I think breathability is the best way. Especially for old building materials. I live in an 1880 house, fieldstone, old brick and lime mortar. I think the best answer for longevity is proper grading the ground, gutters, using the correct type of mortar for the application (old brickwork needs old style lime mortar not regular portland) and a dehumidifier in the basement. My house lasted for the last 144 years even with the previous owners letting the gutter run off where it flowed back into the building.
Hasn't Phil Swift been selling the same thing for about a decade? They started with the flex seal spray, and then they had the tape and liquid paint on version like this stuff. The only thing is that it just comes in black, white, and clear. That stuff has saved me many times.
Rubber stretching by itslef behaves very differently to rubber painted on a surface. If rubber covers a gap or a crack, the gap only has to widen by a few millimeters before the elastic material of the material is reached. Also in the hands the material can stretch in all directions, when it covers a gap or a crack it cannot. This reduces the maximum strain and can cause it to tear much earlier.
Either way i wonder if you can build a pool with it if you do it like an inch thick and if it leaks you just drain the poo. It would help if it was meltable so you could plug a leak by adding more ontop and melting it in or something. In 60 years the cancer settlements will be insane. Did your grandpa or a grandpa you know swim in a pool made by this? You may recieve settlement now! *settlement .12 cents sent in a 25 cent envelope and we call it "just compensation" when an f150 cost 50,000 for a base model but it doesnt matter grandpa is dead*
Nope, unless it failed QC really hard. It's not that's elastic. Those snap back to shape nearly instantly (hence the fail videos when people smack themselves with them). This one went back really slowly. I thought the same thing till that point, though. But no resistance band I ever saw acted like this.
1. Can it be sprayed on? 2. What's the cost per SF at 30 mils thick? 3. How long does it last when not exposed to the sun? 4. Can it be used on the outside if backfilled with soil? Thanks
@jwdeet3396 1. Yes, it can be sprayed on. 2. Contact us for pricing. 3. Although we recommend top coating when able, we have had customers wait several weeks without issues. 4. Yes, you can backfill up against it!
Easy measurements too. 1: hundred dollars for 1: hundred square feet coverage in 1: coat. I'll stick to my 500sqft coverage black rubber coating for half the price. It's a good technology, and I'm sure lots of engineers are going to spec it, but it's still way too expensive to be worth it for the majority of use cases.
would you build a basement in florida with black rubber? he makes it seem you can completely water proof a basement... also seems like a blue flex seal... did the trademark run out on flex seal?!
This is just a ripoff of an already very popular material, it’s called blueskin. It prevents moisture from getting into concrete insulation. This is not in any way new.
Underground temps tend to be much more stable than above ground. So I'd think you'd be fine in almost all states. Probably some issues in northern Alaska, but I'm not sure if they do many basements up there anyways because of the same types of issues.
Your display would be a better seller if you applied this on the outside of the blocks, being here in Northern NY, if a house foundation is letting in water, it's best to waterproof the exterior, sealing from the inside, will let water build up, resulting in it freezing and causing more damaging cracks to the foundation
@@JavaZombie Thanks. I've only owned a couple homes with basements, all new-builds, and never for very long, so never had to deal with that. Though I've had to trench under an entire slab to replace ancient cast-iron drains before, which is probably the slab-home equivalent. Sounds about as much work and money.
Looks like a great product, but we would need some data about factors such as: stability over time, resistance to a variety of chemicals, behavior when perforated by fasteners & other building materials, resistance to repeated stress & the affect of multiple cold/thaw cycles. That is a small block wall, so the pressure exerted by the water (hydrostatic) can only be so high. The higher the wall the greater the hydrostatic pressure, and it can get pretty high!
@@billiemcfadden5808I believe it’s insulated core form. Like the styrofoam forms that snap together then are poured solid…but I may be misremembering. It’s been a while…
The only issue I have, sadly, with these types of waterproof products for my roof is thst I live in a desert with 58°C days sometimes, so they always crack...
Don't simply paint across adjacent cement blocks. It is vital to place something like duct tape or aluminum tape, say one or two inches wide. Paint over that, extending well wide of the tape. The tape allows the rubbery stuff to stretch over a wider span. If one doesn't, it forces the tape to stretch over simply the gap between the blocks. This was learned 30 years ago when building underground homes with concrete beam placed edge to edge to supportt the earth above.
I used this same product that Home Depot sells on my exterior walls and it works well but the wall has to be super clean. Definitely would never use it for interior walls especially block or brick because you are just masking the problem and making it worse with all that moisture.
There is a specific UV resistant top coat you need to apply which he conviently fails to mention. So if it's going to be used where it's exposed to sunlight you have to give it two coats THEN a final coat with the UV resistant stuff. I'm sure there are situations where this stuff will be fantastic I just can't think what that might be. Seems there are enough products out there that do the same thing only cheeper and with less coats🤷
Yep. My brain instantly went to Sun & Lifespan. Like how long will this product hold before it starts to brittle and break down? Dry climate vs Tropical/Humid performance?
Everybody saying not to use it inside basement walls because it would trap water. But yall gotta think, if water got in through the porous block then it can get back out also.. so thats why you seal the interior walls. You also use a thicker membrane with tar board along the foundation to protect from the backfill tearing the seal.. you also want a correct grading, proper soil along with a drain trench system under the foundation that directs any water into a sump pit which pumps it out away from the house.. that along with a good underlayment below any concrete slab thats minimum 4” with moisture barrier sheeting then a good sealer on the concrete, condensation barrier then whatever flooring.. that along with a good working central air system and youll have a perfectly dry basement. With properly sized footers, any lally columns having properly sized footings with expansion joint around it and encased with sheeting under the slab will give the basement the strength it needs not to prematurely crack or move as little as possible. Every structure moves some so if done right the settling wont cause any issues.
1200%.... Really? 100% would mean it doubles in length. 1200% means you can stretch a 1 foot length out to 12 feet long. I find that just slightly unbelieveable.
It's insane if this product works like this. My main question is how long does it retain the elasticity. I do silicone roof coatings and I have never seen anything like that. GE Enduris is what is being used now which is pure silicone. Same thickness about 30-45 mil and is extremely durable for many years. The only time you have issues is with movement. It'll stretch but very little. Then it splits and you loose the mono out the lithic. 😂 It's easy to fix with a roller and some fabric but if this can stay flexible for 25 years then it's the new product for sure. Also wondering what it does on top of tar. Many many many coatings, specifically produced for roofing, can not even last a week with the tar under it. Even with the best primer. If anyone does coatings this is my product list that is guaranteed for 30 here in New Mexico. Henry's Acrylic $50 for a bucket yields 2 square per bucket on tar and gravel with a pressure washed prepped surface and at 50-50, water and product, mixed to be applied with a sprayer. You can roll it but you lose so much money. Cap sheet, no lie like 6 square sprayed. Tpo, 😂 a lot. And GE ENDURIS 3501 and 3505- white or tan. For tpo or rubber membrane no primer or very light water based primer. Roller applied at 30 mil. 4 square per bucket. About $250 a bucket depending on the time of year. For tar and gravel spray her down and hope for 2 square. Charge the top earners price for tar and gravel or recommend a tpo roof. It's about the same price in the end just tpo is more work. *Just looked it up and this stuff is dirt cheap. 175 a 5 gallon bucket. Crazy.
This would actually be great for people in Texas that have failing pools, due to bad concrete causing cracks. I wonder if it’s been done, thought of, or if it would work?
@@Gandhi_Physiquewhy would they ban the internet or computers when they’re able to track everything you do that way. It’s literally for their benefit. Amazes me how many people don’t realize that.
They mentioned that it's paintable by a latex paint, which is generally also flexible. In lesser degree perhaps, but if your building stretches by 1200% I think you have more pressing issues to deal with anyway. 😝
As a plumber I've seen these types before and there good when "usual tactics " are also implied but alone they won't dry on a damp surface or while dissolve in short time due to additives in water
By the time you have put the two coats on, the UV protection coat then the coat so you can walk on the thing. Twice because the first time you thought they were exaggerating the "clean surface" until patches started coming away and you have had to rip it out and start again. You might aswell have build an Olympic swimming pool for the same cost
I too love the mini concete blocks. Would love to know how is the chemical release of that when water or even heat is on it!? Any studies?! Otherwise, if safe, that's a wonderful invention! Again what does it do with chem. release with heat as vapors or in water if you use it for a pond or living things such as plants as well.
I get that you can hold water in... that pressure is reinforced by the blocks but when water pressure is coming through from the outside how much resistance to tearing away from the block does it have.
I think the point is to seal the building outside primarily, then inside for a shower stall, under a bathtub, anywhere you might want reinforcement like a pool or basement - but start with the outside first. That's your first line of defense.
@@lordjaashin 1200%Elongation would mean the 4ft section he had should be able to stretch to 48ft. Guy doesn’t know what he’s saying, if that’s true, then this is literally a miracle material and would already be seeing application worldwide. This is 1200% CAP 🧢
I used this for coating a deck above a room, i then covered it with a rubber liner and vinyl flooring. I also used it on a couple of other small projects. While I think it is a good product, it is susceptible to tearing and ripping so it shouldn't be used where it will encounter wear and you need to make sure it gets a really good bond to what you are coating, they sell a primer which I recommend.
It's already a thing. Look up redkoat, it's a bit pricey but works well. I coated my 63 rambler's tank with it and It's been running great for 8 years now.
You can buy tank coating. Knew a guy that restored an old raggedy Harley with a rusted gas tank. It bonds to the rust, pour it in and move the tank around. Pour out excess to reuse.
In this demo, the water is pushing the paint-on membrane against the blocks. How would it fare painted on the *inside* of an existing block foundation basement? Meaning, how strong of a bond of the “rubber” to the masonry? Because I can imagine trouble spots pushing away from the block and forming water balloons otherwise. I think DryLok cementitious-type waterproofing would be a better choice.
That would need to be placed on the OUTSIDE of the basement wall in order to prevent water from absorbing into the bricks. If it's on the inside, the bricks can still get waterlogged. Then the moisture will just build up in the wall, behind this paint.
Notice once stretched it doesn’t retract, meaning in real world applications it won’t last more than 5 yrs and lucky if it even reaches that. It’ll degrade real quick no doubt.
GREAT but how heat resistant is it? If you could use it on the interior of a foundation inside but what about outside. And does it leach anything toxic in heat? Would be a great coating for a bathroom floor?
If they want to prove the waterproofing aspect for basements, they should have painted the outside to show if it still held water, that or a second set of blocks around that one and fill the gap with water.
Can't wait to save enough money to get this for my pool. I researched n decided it bout 6mths ago can't wait to get my florida pool up again thanks in advance of my up coming order😊
