As a retired IT guy trying to keep my brain active with things of interest, so I am new to 3d Printing. I have ordered a V400 and it arrives middle of February. I have watched every video I can (time permitting) and have discovered that 'Earth Shapiro - is to me' a smooth-running model of efficiency. I enjoy all his videos and look forward to every release. I need a simplified video & help with a webcam setup for timelapse. I also need assistance with getting familiar with menus & mouse-click items for Cura 5.21& fusion 360. All advice is appreciated. Thank you (all) for the hours of enjoyment as I watch & learn.
I was getting stringing on my Ender 5 Plus with PLA and when it had a Bowden, slicing was performed by Cura and I solved it by turning combing on and increasing the retraction speed from 25 to 30.
I also have been watching a bunch of these videos for this particular product on boxing and assembly. I must say it seems that each of you are very intelligent, and have a unique way of getting that cable through the rail I don’t understand why you just don’t use the supplied filament that comes with the machine to drag the wire through. I’ve seen a guy use a magnet with a string, tied to it, the magnet through, and then tie the wire to the string and pull it through. I’ve seen fish tape, a.k.a. electrical wire pull and many other suggested ideas I say use the filament that comes in the box just a thought
Wouldn't the max height only be a centre point? As the head is moved to an outer edge, the lowering arm also has to lower the head too. In my head it's a cone.
Thanks for the video. FLSUN has come out with the S1 and I'm really interested in that. I'm willing to pay more for the speed but there has to be quality as well. I figure, buy once, cry once. That way I won't have to spend more money on a budget printer, then later upgrade to an intermediate and later an advanced version. Again thanks for the video and have a great new year.
I think you just solidified my decision. Looking to upgrade from my Ender 3 Pro and was torn between this and a couple of others. Great video and a terrific job at explaining the features.
thanks irv as always, talking about 3d printing your videos are a must, as i see it klipper is "the way to go" or the "next level" togo but also a great topic for "make with tech" channel , what i can tell is that it loosk great till you want to klipperize a printer then (in the downside) you realize that linux sofware is tricky and install behaves totally diferent i mean the are no app icons or popups telling "you did it well" isntead there are huge gaps to fill and nobody do a better job filling gaps than your channel. and at last but not leats as far as i can tell in the "upside" all you need to do it its out there, its free and the results looks very promising
I have also been impressed with my initial uses of Klipper. But it does increase the cost of a printer which is why there is still a place for Marlin-based printers.
Would like to see it printing an object. Delta printers have always been interesting and have their strengths. At this price it is competing with some real challengers.
The hook is a cable tie hook. Here is the Amazon link. amzn.to/3ktpqcm Then I just put a cable tie through it and made a ring. Then I use these carabiners to hook onto the cable. amzn.to/3wjkxFr No 3d printing involved. However I might design a custom hook -- I am away from my lab and have to look and see if there is a way to clip on a hook to the frame.
The truth about the flsun v400....(or better, about flsun itself) Bought a unit mid january Have it for several weeks Unable to extract one single good print from the machine The issue is that the effector keeps on blocking for whatever reason. I constantly have to unload/load filament to temporarily fix the issue. Very frustrating. Contacted flsun. "Please watch this video" No support. No help. No nothing. Considering filing an official complaint, this has all the hallmarks of a ripoff. Do not do business with these people, hey clearly do not give a fuck about their customers.
I've been repeatedly watching a pair of your videos for the past few hours, specifically the ones that discuss bed leveling. The reason behind my obsession is that my Ender 3 printer has a warped bed, even when a glass layer is added on top. I have a query: was the misspelling of "Klipper" in this video's title intentional? It is intriguing and irritating at the same time. I genuinely value your videos and consider you to be an excellent teacher. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
I know this is an old video, but I'm a young aspiring Maker (23 years old) and my career path is actually in Psychology/Child Development. But I also have a major passion for coding and engineering. Do you have any advice for how I can get into making as a young adult and continue this throughout my life, even though it will be a hobby and not a career path? I also don't have ready access to lathes or 3D printers. Plus I also have issues with visual-spatial skills. I know that's a lot of limitations but I'm really curious as to your advice.
Irv, Thank you for the videos! What speed setting did you use to print the tower? Looks like the top speed for V400 is 100 mm. Are there specific settings to print something big at 200 mm? I doubt that the V400 can print at 400 mm except for maybe vase mode.
Perhaps this printer's cooling on the extruder is not good enough, which leads to improved prints with the external fan. Especially with PLA that really loves to be cooled quickly after extrusion.
Thank you so much for this video, I recently bought a v400 and was feeling really lost. I would appreciate it if you could make more educational videos on this printer! Cheers
Thanks for an informative review. This printer is on my radar. I've decided I want to upgrade from a Creality Ender 3. Some of the others you mentioned are on my list too. The S1 Pro is one of them as is the Sovol 06. I need to check the 5 also. Thanks again from somebody also in the midwest, Chicago western suburb.
Love the videos and the positive outlook and quality ☺️ sending all the best wishes thoughts and feelings for the new year looking forward to seeing more 😎👍
PLA with its low glas transition temperature is always a bit sticky to metal. Esp. on retraction, where the already warmed filament is "sucked back". This is one reason, extra cooling helps (with disadvantage of less layer adheason), and is also the reason, most entry level printers still use PTFE inliner. PTFE still is one of the most non-sticky materials, optimal for PLA. The difference in price between a full metal heatbreak and and a PTFE inlined is not realy existing - if you only print PETG and materials with higher glas transition temperature. But a good metal heatbreak needs an inside coating to make it non sticky, so you can print PLA with low stringing (and clogging). e3d, Slice Engeneering, Microswiss do a lot of develepoment in this coating. Still, they do not have reached the non-stickyness of PTFE now. There is a reason some high-end printers still have two print heads to change - a special "high temp" hotend for more technical materials. On big size printers, esp. open frame ones without enclosure (and even with enclosure with only passive heating) there is no sense in all-metall heatbreaks. You cant print big ABS, PC or Nylon without warping anyway using the big print volume. Please do not confuse "PTFE inlined" with simply bowden tube down to the nozzle. While that of course is sort of "PTFE inlined", it has duribility issues. A good PTFE-heatbreak has its own inliner. e3d for example has not only full metal heatbreaks for the v6, but also inlined ones. There is simply no way to fit all needs with one solution.
Everything you say here is accurate. The caveat is that not all PLA is the same. I will be testing with different brands and grades of PLA to see if I can find a suitable solution for PLA with an all-metal hot-end printer. In terms of the all-metal hot end, I respect your point, but I can't entirely agree with it. I have several filaments I like to use that require extruder temperatures of 230 to 260 and really push the safety limits of PTFE-lined extruders. These filaments do not have significant warping issues, and a printer with an all-metal hot end is perfect for these materials.
I like to use a device for a number of months before doing a follow up. I have been quite busy and have not used the Sovol enough. I will do some more printing with in over the next few months.
Looking forwards to your comments regarding this printer... I have one but I have been chasing my tail in getting a consistent first layer.. I'm running Cura 5.2.1
Interesting. I am getting perfect first layers. Are you using the Cura profile on the USB Key? Did you follow the instructions and do a calibrate, then a bed level, then adjust the Z axis.
@@MakeWithTech Yes, I'm getting quite good at calibrating and I was running the original but as any new guy does where he watches a video changes have been made... You use a Post-it to set the Z and I'm using the equiv long feeler gauge to set my Z with everything heated to PLA settings... Sometime it is pretty good like yesterday but today it is all over the place getting ready to run a new f first layer test print to see how it goes.
@@MakeWithTech Figured it out... It was a plugged nozzle... I had another after market nozzle "Micro Swiss M2 Hardened High Speed Steel High Flow Volcano Compatible/Artillery Sidewinder 1.75mm Nozzle (.4mm)" that I stuck in there reset the Z and I'm good
So far, I've had the V400 for 2 months and not impressed. I'm getting layer shifting, difficulty in PLA sticking to the plate. Last problem was the printer often gets through half the print and then shifts off the plate and prints in mid air. I've tightened the belts but maybe it has a motor issue. I have sent 3 emails to FLSun in China and just crickets. Keep in mind this is my first 3d printer so maybe it's part operator error.
Just switch to official klipper builds if you want to make it a reliable printer. Flsun’s klipper implementation is very bad and is plagued with bed and delta calibration issues.
Uninterrupted power supply. Basically an extension cords that has surge protection and a huge battery in it just in case you loose power suddenly you have time to try and save the print . I use them on my workstation pc because I was tired of loosing hundreds of dollars of work
Hi, I have an ender 3 v2. It works well and is tuned. The problem is that it seems to always ooze a small amount of filament out the nozzle causing prints to be messed up. It comes out a little at a time when it shouldn't(ie not extruding). Nozzle temp doesn't matter. Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
Does the autoleveling on/off box in the printer leveling menu need to be checked for any of the meshes to be applied? I have a g29 in start code and printer probes the bed, but unsure of effect of the on /off function in leveling menu. Thanks
