For track or street? I use ECS Tuning rotors and EBS yellowstuff pads for track. I use front stock rotors and pads for street. Not sure about other street rotors and pads.
@@stevenstrackdays2687mainly street but who knows maybe one day take it to the track. But even so, I tend to drive a bit aggressive on the street.. ECS tuning has front & rear brake pad kit for $ 210 and f/r rotors for $1038. The dealer quoted me a price of $2138. I assume that includes labor.
@@minaguirguis8897 The MSRP price of a stock rotor is $160, but dealer charged me $265.2。The MSRP of stock pads is $229.23, but dealer charged me $239.63. Labor was $310 only front brakes. All pre tax.
Thanks for this great video! Approximately how much new fluid would you end up adding in total to do a complete flush? I've got my first ever track day coming up in a couple of months, so I'll be upgrading my brake fluid (higher boiling point Motul RBF 600 or 660) soon, along with new pads, rotors, and ss brake lines. I'm assuming it'll be a little over 1L in my case, since I want to ensure that all of the old fluid is replaced. I've got a 2010 4.2L 6MT Audi S5 btw
hello, this is great info, but i am wondering have you ever heard or expierenced hearing a squeaky brake pedal after doing a brake flush? I have a 2020 S4 and after getting a fluid flush, my brake pedal squeaks - usually when releasing the pedal.
If you are using the pressure bleeding method do you also need to open/close the bleeder screw on the caliper with a second person pressing and letting off the brake pedal?
I don't find low viscosity requirements in repair manual. I don't think that the OEM brake fluid is low viscosity fluid parts.audiusa.com/p/75828152/B0007501LDSP.html I think LV is worth considering in cold weather, but not for track purpose. "For track use, a heavier high performance brake fluid such as Ate Typ 200 or Motul RBF600 or RBF660 is recommended because of their higher boiling point and because the thicker fluid will thin out at track temps."
Right, it's not there. I found the info in a file called "D4B805C61D2-Maintenance.pdf". I believe I downloaded it from the "maintenance" category in Erwin.
if you use the pressure bleeder to replace pressing the brake pedal do you need the pressure bleeder to be filling with new brake fluid as you are bleeding out the old?
No you don't need to fill it with new fluid. But eventually you want to keep the final fluid level high (close to max level but leave room for new brake pads). So, why not fill with new fluid earlier.
@@stevenstrackdays2687 im wondering if you don't fill it while pressurizing it and you bleed at the calipers and then fill later that you risk trapping air in the lines needing to bleed a lot more until you get no bubbles?
That's true, but as long as you don't push the level below the min, no need to worry about air. Both the max and the min levels are marked on the reservoir. Please monitor the level.
Probably the same but I am not sure. I only purchased/downloaded A4 and A5 repair manuals. Here's how to find repair manuals: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qfENXu-KuZ4.html
For the bleeding screw? I don't think so. The fluid will stop bleeding even when the screw is not super tightened. The manual does mention a torque value but I never followed it.
@@stevenstrackdays2687 Do I need apply some anti seize grease on the bleeder screws? and what is the maximum allowed pressure to pump with the bleeder pump? 9 PSI?
@@MKasap-te8vm The repair manual does mention the grease so I don't think so. I don't see the max limit. But the manual said "An initial pressure of 2 bar (29 psi) is required to bleed the ABS Hydraulic Unit." So at least 29 psi.
you start bleeding from right rear passenger brake and move on to left rear and than front passenger and last driver side … brake bleeding should start from furthest away from the brake reservoir tank
the service manual for the B9 states the exact opposite (I believe it's because of the ABS system). It's best to follow what the manufacturer is recommending.
dont believe what the manual tells you! im a master tech and audi performance tuner … i build cars and i repair them … you bleed brakes farest first thats away from abs module .. trust me dont argue with me learn from a master and not what manual tells u… ur gonna ruin your master cylinder if you bleed your brakes what manual tells u to do
if the abs module is located in driver side you bleed the brake from far right rear and move to left rear and down to right front brake and left fromt brake
