Great review. I ordered one this morning. Had a heater emergency last night one of my turtle tanks which houses my baby turtle had the cheap 11.00 aqueon heater go out and it was 69deg so I had to pull my ehiem out of my larger turtles tank and put in the baby tank. The bigger one will get this new Fluval tomorrow. I have a FX6 on his tank so it should provide plenty of flow
I have this exact heater. Unfortunately after a few years the little led light on it died. It still functions but the screen itself is extremely hard to see without the background led.
2 года назад
Lovely review! Considering this for a tank with a snapping turtle so the plastic guard really can't be too sturdy. Three things I didn't hear here: - Is that red temp switch easy or hard to adjust. I'm thinkning my snapper could potentially put a foot on it and manage to change the temps if it moves too easy. - Can the heater be mounted not completely submerged? I obviously don't have the turtle tank completely filled so having the top poke out above the surface would make placement easier. - Is the display lit 24/7 or is it possible to not have a light in the tank at night?
The switch takes a bit of force to screw with it. In my opinion I don't see your trurle able to monkey with it. The light I'm pretty sure stays on the lights are there to warn you something is wrong with the water. Green means it's good, red means it's to hot and blue means it's to cold. If you get this I would get the smaller one since you won't have a tank full of water
I have used the 200 in a 55-gallon aquarium, and a 100 in a 29-gallon aquarium. They have been a mix of substantial pros and cons. Pros: Can be adjusted in increments of .5. Has a digital display showing what temperature it is detecting. Extensive heater guard. Cons: Basically incapable of functioning without a very good water flow directly adjacent, or directed into it. Not good at maintaining higher temperatures if you are treating ich. Becomes increasingly erratic when set above 80. Requires suitable air and room temperatures to maintain stable numbers, even when set to 77. I now always put them very close to a sponge filter.
The need for high flow can be frustrating. I don't think these are good in a sponge filter only tank. They seem to work fine if you have lots of flow, such as the one I have on a 55 gallon with a HOB *and* a canister filter, but really I have no issues as long as they're on a tank with at least 1 HOB. I'm moving towards using Marineland ones for the sponge filter tanks but I sure do miss the digital temperature readout! Thanks for the comments as I know they will help our community.
I dont have violent fish!! but they may be all dead if this heater doesnt work, I set it up and it was on 25, than few hours later it went to 24. I couldnt work out how to turn up the temperature. I wish I could find a tutorial to tell me, they all talk about the brackets all the time.
I have a Fluval Flex 32.5 Gallon Aquarium and a Fluval E 100-Watt Electronic Heater (A772). I would like to know if it is safe to add a second Fluval E 100-Watt Heater in my aquarium. My idea is that the two heaters will share the work load of heating the water. I would also like to add the second heater as a backup heater, just in case something happens to one of the heaters and I am not at home, at the time.
First, this is all just my opinion. I would say that’s fine. At a minimum you should have 5W/gallon and just one of those heaters doesn’t seem to be enough. So 2 would be about right. On the plus side, if one ever gets stuck on, it will be less likely to kill your fish. An important note about heater sizing is that you must consider how cold you let your house get in winter vs. your desired tank temp. If you’re one of those 60 degree people, you probably need bigger heaters.
Mine work well. BUT! I noticed they’re more sensitive to needing plenty of water flow to get the temp up. If you put them on the quieter side of the tank, they may not reach the desired temp.
Yes it says that it suggested to have what a canister filter. Because a canister filter has a lot of water flow it doesn't necessarily mean you have to have one. There's ways around that
Here’s what I’ve found on mine. If you have a fairly still (low water movement) tank, they will gripe at you with the LF indicator. This is trouble in a sponge filter only tank. I make sure to have a sponge next to it and turn up the air. They do fine in a tank next to a large enough HOB or canister. It’s that plastic housing, I believe. It interferes slightly with heat exchange. I want to love these because of the temperature readout but I have a lot of sponge only tanks. Overall, these are nice heaters, just make sure you have plenty of circulation.
Ok so this is something to watch for on these, depending on the situation. 1) If there is not a lot of water flow in the tank, these heaters will not reach the temperature as easily. This one annoys me. 2) Is the heater the right size for your tank AND the temperature difference between that and your room? If the tank won’t go above 71 then I’m guessing you keep your house too cold for me :). A properly sized heater can only be expected to raise the tank temp 6-10 degrees above room temp. If you keep your thermostat at 55 then you’ll need a bigger heater. 3) Maybe it has a malfunction. I’ve not seen one of these fail yet but anything is possible. Let me know what you figure out! I’d love to hear the outcome.
@shdowcrwler, I appreciate the help, but please quote where the instructions say that. I'm not trying to argue here but I want to make sure this is clear because my instructions don't say that and I want anyone who uses the heater to be using it correctly. My instructions say the following: "The heater must be immersed in water at least up to the MIN. WATER LEVEL "min." indicated (but without exceeding the depth of 100 cm - 39 inches). This aquarium heater must never operate outside of water." That second sentence appears again later in the instructions followed by, "If the heater is accidentally removed from the water while operating, DO NOT re-submerse it in water. Unplug it and let it cool down for at least 1 hour before reusing." The front of the box also says, "Fully submersible". I think most modern aquarium heaters are made to be fully submersed, which is a wonderful thing because I remember the days before that was true and you really had to be careful.
@@FishyReview I did some research, you are correct, it is fully submersible. The instructions do not say what I previously stated. BUT There is a picture in page 2, where the heater is submerged underwater and there is a cross on it meaning, DO NOT. This was what I thought it meant. Do you know what it means? Now, it probably means do not submerge it under the tank's substrate. Thanks.
looks cool, cage seems a good idea, could survive a turtle tank even, but the chip seems to want to do too many things, product done listening to the consumer and the marketing "idiots" sorry managers, rather than the engineers/ electricians . This is programmed to switch on/off A LOT, very sensitive to temp changes which is very bad. It would have been better it ran more, with having a larger threshold. We have to thank the clueless consumers, test groups that want a certain temp at ALL times, not knowing that a swing that is in the green safe zone of 2 degrees C is not gonna kill ANY animal and is also natural. Shame, rare cool looking product for a heater. The flimsy red lever is the last of my concerns.
