Don Bailey compares the old style Fly Cutters with the New Suburban Tool Fly Cutter. www.subtool.com... Visit our Web Store at www.subtool.com or call direct at 248 391-7800
One other good thing with a fly cutter is it will show you how well you have the turret trammed in. The cutting marks should be even fore and aft and laterally. Take a very light cut,five thou or so,and study the finish. Being able to read it will let you know if any adjustments have to be made. The bigger the swept diameter the more sensitive cutter witness marks are. The too you and from you marks should overlap evenly.
I bought this Fly Cutter a few years ago with the smallest insert holder. It worked EXCELLENT!!! Hands Down, WAY better than any other fly cutter I've ever used!!! After using it on one job I bought the 2 other insert holders. The beauty is you set it to make 1 pass, my finishes was almost mirror finishes! I used it on Aluminum, P20, H13, and 4130, 4140, 4150 for the outsides of Mold Retainers. It was the first thing that the customer remarked about as it's the first thing they saw. Their exact words were, "That looks like a first class Tool!" Customer confidence from a well made Fly Cutter! WINNING!!!!
Glad you like the fly cutter! It sounds like you've gotten some great use out of it. If you have some time, feel free to leave us a review on Google :) Thanks for the support, and as always; thanks for watching!
I certainly have!!! It's HANDS DOWN the best flycutter I've ever used! Only problem I had was that I had to hide it! Everybody kept borrowing it and using all my inserts! The shop I worked for is really cheap so I bought 10 boxes of inserts for my own use as I was on the big horizontal and I used it all the time. They eventually started buying inserts after I sent out a couple of jobs that I couldn't us my flycutter on because I was out of inserts. Anybody reading this, DON'T HESITATE TO BUY THIS CUTTER it is EXCELLENT!!!
Thank You, it is a great idea and was a very informative video.However I would suggest tilting the finished part up to the camera so that we can see the surface finish produced by your fine tool..
You should have run a surface finish analyzer to quantify the difference. Also, surely the old style fly cutter can take carbide inserts too if you make an adapter ? And I suppose the carbine insert is what really makes the better finish, not really the holder ? Lastly, that tool looks very big !! I could be wrong but it seems overbuilt, surely it could shed some weight without compromising rigidity ?
+shodanxx the design is all part of the result... I have used similar tooling for boring and they work because the weight and strength improves rigidity and therefore surface finish, there is another video for this tool, and the surface finish is very good.
Anyone know why these things are called "FLYCUTTERS"? I think I do---it is because when you cut something with/use one of them, crap flies ALL OVER the shop!!
fly cutter - 1 cutting edge - least amount of pressure, face mill - multiple cutters engaging the parts - more pressure, requires more rigid machine and higher amounts of power, potential for really high material removal rates
Conversely single cutting edge gives an intermittent cut which on smaller, less rigid machines is liable to produce more vibration and worse finish. The four (or more) edges of a face mill ensures (providing the work piece is wide enough) that at least one edge is always engaged so gives a more constant load on the machine. If using a fly cutter on a smaller machine it really helps if it is a heavy one that has plenty of momentum. I suspect that weight (and the insert) are the key reasons this demo gives a better finish than the conventional rather small fly cutter.
@@MrSailbadthesinner A fly cutter gives a better surface finnish is what I was taught. I had not considered that a face mill might be better on a small, less rigid mechine.
Never been a fan of flycutters in an R8 spindle w only 3 hp on ferrous metals. Non ferrous? No problem. Just my opinion but the R8 spindle is too light and the single point knock is hard on the bearings. Aluminum, brass, bronze (except Aampco of course) is acceptable to me. Steel is better off with a multipoint shell type I think. 40 taper or bigger no problem if you need a wide uninterrupted cut…
Hello Mark, i talked to shipping and if you are serious about buying the fly cutter, email me on sfayez@subtool.com and i will try to make it happen. have a good day
I have often wondered at your question myself. However, there are few face cutters that big and their costs are astronomic. I think because this fly cutter can go in one pass the finish will look better than two or three passes by a face miller. Whether the metal removal is greater from a face cutter, again I don't know.
