You were RIGHT to convince the customer to alter the depth of those cross-beams. It's MUCH more appealing, adds more character and interest to the ceiling, AND will improve the resale value of the home over the other method. It's good to listen to the customer's wishes, but if you know better (AND YOU DO) - you were correct in convincing them to see it your way. That definitely shows that you are a professional. Nice work!
Can you do a video on taking accurate measurements? Measuring for a miter, measuring when the tape is bent ... Things like that & other measuring tips & tricks in the DFW brain vault.
cut a piece like 10" and make certain that it is a true 10". Measure across from the far object to your measuring piece (must be a name for this) and then add that to your measurement. Like 127 3/8 plus 10" would then be 137 3/8. Do it all the time in old house base boards which are usually around 9" using a square measuring board you can see how the base fits against the wall and you adjust your cut accordingly.
Amazing result as always. I live here in Japan and love my pull saws. The local hardware store has over 100 types. It's like a Disneyland for DIYers like myself.
Exactly correct, Eddie! I started using conventional hand saws as a kid, almost 60 years ago. A couple of years ago, a friend turned me on to these and I'll never go back! Much more precise, easy to control, and the kerf is paper thin! As you mentioned, you also have the added advantage of carrying two saws in one!
Same here, grew up using them but converted at least 15 years ago and that's all I use when hand sawing and fine cut is needed. Only problem, I haven't been able to find anyone that can sharpen them. So I go out and buy a new one.
Finish Carpentry TV Aren't they all hardened after the sharpening process? They are designed to be replaceable. If it's not to expensive to import from Germany, I would recommend Dictum Tools. Been buying all my japanese tools from them for a while now. Great service, they speak English and they have the finest quality in Europe.
Can you take a photo or video of the completed arched beams, so we can see what they look like and where you installed them? thanks. Great job as usual.
Wow, those make a huge difference in that room-it really completes the style! I commend you on not veering off the manufacturer’r recommendations-especially on something the client purchased.
I've worked with these exact beams before.....they are VERY expensive....but worth every penny....every customer I've installed them for has loved them
Great Job!!!! I really enjoy your channel. I don't understand why viewers see the need to correct you all the time! You are there getting it done! Ever job has it's nuances and you are there to get the job done and make a living. You explain why you do what you do. You follow the manufactures suggestion and it all comes out great! You even cop to your mistakes. I appreciate you putting yourself out there and I for one have learned a lot from you! I look forward to more of your videos? Thanks!!!
As several people have previously commented, the saw has both rip cut (in the direction of the grain) and cross cut (across the grain) teeth. The other absolute difference between these saws and typical European/American saws is that the Japanese saws cut when pulled instead when being pushed through the wood. You'll notice the teeth are angled toward the user instead of away from the user. I love these saws because they are thinner and cut more accurately on fine work because the teeth are not set wide. They make folding versions nowdays which is great for always having a saw in any toolbox for the occasional cut. Even electricians, tile-setters, masons, painters, drywallers, just about all trades, need to cut a board once in awhile but who wants to carry a full-sized carpenter's saw everywhere.
The gel stains make a nice glaze over an oil finish like danish oil for depth/aging. I can't imagine how nice it must be to be able to set up outside like that all the time. I think we've head 10 days combined in Philly this year when it didn't rain.......and it snowed on 9 of those.
Nice job!! After seeing the finished install I think I would have left off the poly because they were still a little too glossy for me but it was nice work.
I did something similar. The beams I made out of 2x10's ripped down then planned. The ceilings were high so i didnt 45 the seams as it would almost be impossible to get them tight. If the beam needed to be longer i would 45 the end to go into the other piece. Put them up screwed in then use dowels to cover the screw holes. These beam look absolutely amazing
I use gel stain almost exclusively now and I would guess the reason they recommend it for the beams would be because it has the consistency of pudding and not water. It has no runoff whatsoever and is recommended for staining vertical or overhead spaces and doesn't bleed when stained against blue tape. When staining overhead (if you were staining the beams after installation) then gel would be 1000x's better than trying to use regular stain.
The manufacturer probably specified gel stain because you're dealing with plastic foam. As such, traditional 'watery' stain might just roll off like water off of a waxed car, and not penetrate. Also, there's a chance that a solvent-based stain might damage foam (eat away at it!). I always hated foam 'beams,' but if that's what your customer wants.......
evodawg wrong! gel stain should also be clear coated, it will do the same as it does with regular stain, adds protection to the stain and surface, but here for this foam inside the home I would agree with you.
Great video. I don't like working with Minwax products anymore after I started working with General finishes products. Their gel stains and polys are awesome. Less fumes and better finish but more expensive. You get what you pay for.
What's up brother learned alot from ur channel much appreciated but I also use Japanese pull saws in my wood projects, but Small teeth are for cross cuts and Large teeth are for rip cuts.
This turned out great. I myself wasn't a fan of the Satin finish. I thought the Satin wouldn't be too glossy but I could see what looked like flashing on the beams so I wasn't crazy about that. Perhaps if you stopped with just the stain. As far as covering the screw heads, would anyone really be able to see them up that high? Could you have either used black screws or just dabbed a little of the stain on the screw heads?
Been watching your videos for a while now. I wish I could work with people like yourself who actually like what they do. My boss and coworkers have made me hate doing carpentry because their all miserable and so stressed out. I just wish I could find a crew who is more laid back and enjoy their work.
On camera there appeared to be whitish areas, which I assume are reflections off the poly surface. Was that just an artifact of the camera or did the eye see it too?
It’s called a Japanese “Pull” saw for an obvious reason. The cutting stroke is a pull not a push like the common saw. In addition, the Gel stain is just that...a gel.
Reallly enjoying your videos, i wanted to give u and idea for a video. If someone has a miter saw that is only single bevel and they only have a 10inch saw and cant cut mdf standing up what would be the correct waay to cut it laying down?, and how to cut inside and outside corners, another idea is how to measure angles to cut mdf base/trim :) Appreciate the channel Richard! Great work guys
Hey Richard-- it sucks, but unfortunately Amazon is about as good as it gets for odd (or high end) stains and finishes, as far as I've found. Doing flooring, I've found unless you're doing serious volume, it makes the most sense. (Plus, Amazon is pretty generous with credit lines and APR/financing promos.)
Hola Richard. Muy Buenos tus videos. Me han ayudado mucho. Entiendo lo que dices que te distraes cuando grabas Los videos. Pero creo que puedes solo poner la camara sin tener que explicar. Con eso baste. Espero lo tomes en cuenta
Hey man....you've been a real inspiration. You have no idea how much🙌. just wanted to get that out there. How did you get those arches in man quick explanation would do.
for how light those foam beams are I think the screws are a little overkill, probably 16g nails would have done the trick and you wouldn't have to worry about patching them holes, came out nice though
You are talking about a vertical structure that is always pushing down people. It means a constant fight with gravity. It is better to work on the side of caution than to assume this or that.
If you can find a way to work it into a new video, I would like to know what you do when you have 6 hours to kill at a job site like when you needed the stain to dry.
I can’t believe I didn’t think about this the first time I watched this video long ago... did that bracing get in the way of fitting over the lumber you toggled to the ceiling/screwed to the joists? Did you have to modify the bracing or cut out small sections of that lumber for the bracing to fit?
Curious..if the 2by is cut a little narrow and then screwing the beam to the 2by pulls it in..is this now making the beam sides less than 90* and the perpindicular beam not parallel and creating a gap at the top? What do you use to fill gaps and screw holes?
Also are you counter sinking your screws? And if so do you use reg wood filler and gel stain pins to cover the heads? Just wondering because didn't think wood filler or even Crawford's would stick to foam?
People commenting negatively about it being foam and fake, but if you'd made them out of cedar, they'd still wouldn't be functional, structural beams and therefore, fake. Even experienced carpenters have a hard time telling the difference once they're installed, if they're installed properly. Great job, sir. They look great.
As far as the foam beam trend goes, we're still in the novelty phase. It will continue to be a trend as long as they can fool people. Once they become common enough that people know what they are the novelty will wear off, and it will be ripped out. That's fine, people like them right now and it pays his bills, but we've seen trends like this before.
What exactly are they 'fooling' them into? As Tech2BuildPro said, even if they were cedar, they still aren't structurally functional. They're simply there for decorative purposes and... that's ALWAYS going to be subjective. I personally don't like beams over say, a coffered ceiling but they probably aren't going away any time soon.
zaknefain100 they're fooling people because they're foam, not wood. People like wood, but not foam. If you use cedar at least they really are wood, even if they aren't holding anything up. If that's not a problem then why not glue a bar that is unambiguously foam to the ceiling? As in a bar of foam that's proud it's foam, as opposed to foam that pretends to be wood. That's what I thought. No one is going to do that, and if you did that the next owners would rip the foam down. That's what I mean when I say it's only a trend because it's currently fooling people. Once everyone knows they're foam no one will want them anymore. Home buyers seem to care less about whether it's part of the buildings load-bearing structure. That's something that mostly only architects worry about.
What did you fill your screw holes with? Faux wood fill? Lol I imagine your can't really seem them being so high up.... Could of just done a time lapse video on the arch beams installation, with some music lol
