A short video addressing rocket stove design concerns from feedback from the prepper community. Follow me on Instagram: / steel_forest_welding_a... Follow me on Facebook: / analogmike1 Please Subscribe: / @steelforestweldingand...
I would also add that with your current design of stove legs you could easily use tent stakes to stake the stove to the ground increasing its stability.
Thank you for your work . built a few stoves already with all sorts of materials . my daughter has just completed a project for a science expo and it works wonders especially here in South Africa were we have goverment mandated rolling blackouts and cost of fuel and lpg gas have increased drastically . Shout Out from Cape Town South Africa
Hi. The biggest issue with rocket stoves in general is that although they burn super efficiently, super hot, they also super fast. they don't retain heat. I also found that the fastest way to boil water is to use a Kelly kettle, or Giddy(?) kettle, or storm kettle. Also secondary combustion stoves provide less smoke, more privacy and more efficient burning. So my suggestion would be: make double walled removable attachments that the average prepper can put right on top of the fire chamber. So instead of just the tall chimney, one could pop the secondary combustion chamber on top (it actually could surround the "fire chamber", the bottom part of the stove, and it could be a folding one too, then the water tank with the chimney middle could be popped on top to heat water, with inlet at the bottom & outlet at the top, using the thermosyphon effect for circulation. It would be much more efficient than the usual copper pipe coiled around the flue. I know it's complicated but with your experience you could narrow it down to the most straightforward and efficient design.
You value input like a professional, that is to me the only way to get better at anything. Sometimes it's not easy, especially as men, to hear "that can be done better", especially when you've demonstrated that you put a lot of time and thought into the final designs. I myself want to get into selling these on the weekends at flea markets or even online. Looking around on Etsy I see a lot of variety, but none that really stick out as profitable from a time standpoint. I try to use the k.i.s.s method whenever I'm fabricating something.
Thank you, I try my best. But I'm human just like everyone else. I've never had a problem with constructive criticism. In fact I value it. The kiss method is also what I tried using when designing these stoves. Simple and rugged.
Keep the design for the front legs except arch or angle the centerline surface up/in to prevent rocking on an uneven surface. Replace the rear foot structure and with a single leg for a semi-tripod approach to ease unlevel surface use. At the bottom of the back foot weld a large washer or a "V" shape perpendicular to the ground as a foot bottom allowing the use of a stake or very large nail to secure stove from tipping over.
Design idea: Maybe use (square) tubes as legs. That way you can widen the stance with whatever you find on your location. Anything you find that fits in the tubes.. Great content btw, I'm subscribing.
Glad to have you and thank you. Tubing unfortunately is very expensive when compared to solid stock. I try to keep the cost of the stoves as low as possible. Adding tubing for legs would increase labor and material cost time.
I have built a few stoves. A couple of things I could suggest. I find the best configuration for the grill is an X or an *, so that any size pot/pan from small to large is comfortable on top. Also, perhaps the door is overkill. I have an L shaped stove and just a moveable horizontal plate 1/2 way. It rockets amazingly well. Love your work (and humility).
Great design, dude, have a German cousin that met up with me several years ago talking about rocket stoves, fell in love with em. And the mass heaters and all, and all fuels that can be used...... wonderful stuff. Thanks for this. Well done.
Possibly a little shorter - but a bigger plate support is needed like your X-Support but longer to better hold a pot or pan. I'd also suggest 1/2" ReBar for legs - but - bent in an Inverter U shape so legs touch ground not cross piece. And the legs are semi-pointed. The reason is that the stove is used outdoors in rocky/sandy/dirty environment and "pointy" legs will better set in that type of terrain. In addition, they need to be splayed out and forward to provide a lot of stability. They are easy to make (2 bends) and put on (2 Welds). The top skillet supports, as stated, need to be much bigger, it also could be removable by having it "slip on" the edge of the pipe. You could use a tube and socket for the legs and the end of the legs have pivot feet. The legs come off and store inside so when in use they come out, fit into the sockets and are adjustable for length due to wing bolts on the sockets and feet pivot for un-even terrain. Much more complex and could be an option, but would get rid of the leg "length" (still need sockets for legs to fit into and they only need to be 1 to 2 inches long) Option no. ?: You could weld up a socket that 1/2" ReBar fits into and they just sit in them with weight keeping everything there. Simple and the legs can be as long as you want. Just don't forget to angle them - outward would work best. 😁 My 2 cents (PS - what do they sell for? I've seen $225 to $500)
Don't want to criticize. I made one and used the solid rod that you have for legs to make the grate under the pan...I made my legs out of square tubing...Love your legs! my top grate makes it look like an indoor gas stove burner.
Nice work. It may be more unstable outdoors on uneven ground. Fixed legs are tricky as , the more stable , the less compact it is. A slight modification i would make is, lift the bar on the bottom up an inch . No extra work, just two more blobs of weld on each leg. It would make it more stable soft ground as you could push in an inch or so of the leg bar into the ground before the cross bar touched the soil.
I understand what you're saying. And with the current design it does do just that. With just a slight bit of pressure it will sit evenly on soft uneven ground.
Great video. Like said, you can't please everyone but, it's definitely nice to get feedback. I made my first stove about 11 years ago, something I just enjoy doing. I like your design, keep up the great work.
as long as the ash dump is fairly tight they are just fine, and that was just my personal experience. A different design would probably work just fine.
yo man, don't stress about the haters, you did your research, you put in the time to gain the knowledge and clearly it paid of, I made my first rocket stove yesterday and seeing your video is really reassuring and forgive me for this but i am really temped to lend some of your designs for either my next stove of for modifications for the one I have now
I don't, I've grown a thick skin :) And ty. But these criticisms were far from cruel. Whenever you build a product you always have to deal with criticisms both positive and negative.
Homey what you need is a 14, or 15 inch cold cut/dry cut chop saw, evolution is a great brand cuts tubing like that like butter clean cold no dust no heat..
You’re on the right track. That base works good on a cement floor in the garage but I wouldn’t bet on it being sturdy out at a campsite. I would suggest possibly using the same material you made the legs out of, bend them slightly and weld two “C” shaped pieces to the bottom outsides of the front legs to the back legs. 😉👍
When I paused the video at 2:25 I can tolerate the one closest to you sweetheart. And maby the second one in the front row. And your right about preppers. Would love to send you a print out, of my design. And would insist on all stainless steel. Great video thank you so very very much sugar bear 🐻!!!
I don't know if anyone has already said this, but if you are using these outdoors, you could simply use some metal stakes on the legs and it would be rock solid my Brother. 😃 You could even sell the stakes as accessories.
I love your rocket stoves, I want to model mine after those so I just went and welded myself a rocket stove, I used 2 inch square steel, I didn't have anything bigger, it's my second real time welding. I think it looks great! but I messed up my cuts and had to bridge two 3/16 inch gaps, that was tough, it took 3 welds and grinds to finish it.
I fabricated my 1st rocket back in 2019, when i found (here on youtube) this genius idea. Could not help myself to play around with different designs, styles, materials, sections etc. the Rocket is not rocket science but still a laborious piece. I gave away and sold every one of them. I got my own model now and it’s getting popular. 😎
That criticism has come up before with clients and other people and it's a valuable criticism. From my experimentation and from customer feedback it's hasn't been a problem. That is, as long as appropriately sized pots and skillets are used. If someone were to try and use a 15in skillet for example, yes the stand-offs would be to small. But also, this size stove isn't designed for cooking utensils that large. So far there haven't been any customer complaints. Thanks for the feedback!
maybe add straight bars of Rebar like you used to bend it looks like to each leg ( ( adding 3 inches or so to each side ) and then even using say metal clothes hangers ( cut into "v" shape bends like a tent stake etc ) to bury in ground could make it near impossible to ever tip over :)
Nice stove. Good design. The tipping concerns are uneven ground, with water that can slosh back and forth in the pot, adding to the instability. Only cures there are as you say, lower center of gravity, or a bigger footprint, which will have the drawback of increased weight. It's a tradeoff.
I made one from 5mm steel box 100mm square. It sold on Etsy for almost $400 and the owner is delighted with it, mind you it cost me over £90 to send it to the US from the UK! To make them to last for years you have to make them from robust steel, I reckon anything under 3mm is asking for trouble after a few years of use. A friend of mine bought one of those made from 1mm plate and it got dented and even warped with the heat! This is why I made one from 5mm box as it will last a lifetime or several LOL
i like your designs , being a aussie we like our back yard bbqs on larger plate / rack etc , soon i will be building one out of blocks , fire bricks and maybe some rocks ,thinking about also building a larger type rocket stove incorperated it it to use as a wok burner etc .. keep up the good work
@@steelforestweldingandforge.... trouble is cinderblocks dont last long due to cracking which is why building the fire pit part of the bbq will line it with fire bricks..... but fire bricks really dont lend them self into a rocket stove design ... so thinking a metal r/stove incorperated into the block bbq even if i have to line it in with f/bricks to protect the blocks
Looking at the design, if the feet were much wider it might start making the thing too bulky to have strapped to a backpack, so personally, If stability was a concern, I'd probably pack a handful of hose clamps with it so I could find, and clamp, some suitable bits of branch across the legs when I got where I was going. This would mean it could be as stable or compact as anyone could want it, depending on how long the lengths of branch they choose are.
You don't strap a stove made out of steel to a backpack for hiking unless you like pain. Make one out of soup cans for back packing or dig 2 holes side by side connect them on the bottom wack you got a natural rocket stove. No metal needed.
Metal fabricator of 23 years and journeyman sheet metal worker in the union have industry here. I can say this about "draft": the smoother the tube is that the air moves through the higher velocity it can pick up. So the "L" shape main tube would draft alot better with a "turn vane" or something in the bottom. Regardless of the other aspects of the stove design, two 45* angles on the bottom elbow will draft better than 1, 90* corner I promise.
The stability is fine on concrete, but check the stability while out in the back 40. Soft or uneven ground may give you different results with your stability test. Wider leg profile would be preferred.
So with your skills maybe you caan do something like that. It would be one more utse from the stoves you make. I would like to see the results.@@steelforestweldingandforge
cool-weld a sleeve on one leg at bottom on the side to slide a piece of rod or rebar through-maybe a couple of feet-would be removable and very hard to turn over-works for me
I just built my first rocket stove, and I put the legs on the side with some scrap I had(to prevent tipping). One thing I want to eventually add is like a drawer/cache on the bottom to clean out ash easier. Haven't figured out the design yet, I saw that you had a version like that. If you figure out a way to incorporate one that works efficiently , please make a video.
I think he said in the video that unless it's air tight you lose force. That's why he went to a closed bottom. Re-watch & check it out. I'm watching these videos for my first attempt at building one. I was planning on a ash dump too, DARN IT.
I'm sure someone else probably already suggested this & I know it's probably not considered an optimal solution, but since the stove you addressed high c.o.g. concerns is already a fairly beefy size (i.e. not designed with portability as a defining trait), why not simply weld some scrap plate steel to the underside as a counterweight-ballast for enhanced stability? In my mind I see that as an opportunity for dual satisfaction by: 1.) Having forum brats shut yaps (which can obviously benefit from a "publicist's makeover" in its phrasing if one cares) while concurrently & most importantly 2.) Not needing to go back to the drawing board in order to meddle with what's obviously some stellar design & workmanship you're offering.
That would be a solution for flat solid ground. It will also unfortunately increase production time, shipping costs, and material costs. Best solution I have seen offered is simple tent stakes. And thank you for the kind words as well :)
Regarding tipping, make the back leg a horizontal tube and include a piece of round stock with it to slide into that tube. Make it about a foot long. You can store it in the vertical chimney. Can be aluminum tubing even to lighten it.
I would rotate the handle like 30 degrees and shorten the stick connecting it by 30%. That way friction keeps it in your hand instead of using grip strength to hold it. Does it work with wood chips or sawdust pellets?
Just a wider leg base will help. You could also make fold the legs with a small nut and stop on the leg portion if the width is wider then you care for it to be
I think the legs would have low surface for soft ground. Like in a mash, tundera or winter setting. Maybe a standoff/spacer with disc/plate foot could work?
Criticism is never gonna stop. You can't please the whole world. Plus some of it comes from competition. Someone just trying to have you chase your tail so to speak. Build your product. If sales are good. Then run with what you have. I myself am here to see how these are made. I'm looking into it as a business as well. But, I have nothing good or bad to say about your designs. I see room to improve on it. And I'll keep it to myself.
Honestly criticism neither positive or negative bothers me. When you're in the welding world your work is criticized on a daily basis. But you're right though, if you have a good product people will buy it.
But who wants to stand there and feed it for hours... not me... make a gravity pellet grate with hopper... runs unattended until the hopper runs empty... geez!
@@steelforestweldingandforge Your choice... its for sure you put the stove in the car trunk... so why not a bad of pellets too... about 36 hours of fuel sure is handy. Enjoy!
For the Prepper community and you & me Just for your FYI> if I may suggest a small improvement in the building of the rocket stove FYI the top piece where the pans and utensils go on top. The area has is not wide enough, I cant tell how many time my nonstick pans have fallen off the stove. Most rocket stove users are having this problem. Now the solution is can you put a round bottom wok on it and cook Beef and Broccoli? If the top resting place for pans and be widened and it can cradle all woks and pans 23 inches or larger than you have a winner. I am sending you a link from RU-vid, i hope you will enjoy it. I hope you dont lose, any breakfast or lunch slipping off into the nest county. Best Regards ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nBKGW3Fumhc.html
First off, thx for watching. Second, I never turn down constructive criticism offered in a positive way, which you did. I have very recently altered the design to the grate of my stoves. A video of the new design is available in my profile. The reason I had for the older the design was for portability, manufacturing, and shipping costs. These stoves take more than 5 hours to make, so they are not very profitable from a welder/fabricator perspective. And the cost for these is highly competitive. Any additional fabrication would require me to increase product and shipping costs . If someone asked me to specifically make a ring shaped top I absolutely would. For an additional cost. You are correct about a ring on top for a wok. These, however, are designed to be used more with a cast iron skillet.
Maybe if the legs had a tab with a hole in it, an aluminum trnt peg could be used to hold it down more securely? Alternatively some cleats on the feet would allow the stove to be pushed into the ground?
I like your design but it's hard to learn from praise. I would suggest anyone that thinks that stove will tip over to use tent stakes over the legs, then quit drinking they may be the ones tipping over. :)
use angle iron or round legs that slide into a slot in each corner. they can be as long as your chimney and stored inside when not in use. they should have about a 45° (have to play around with that and see what's best) bend right where they attach to the stove to create a wider base. Adds almost no weight and will be way more stable and smaller footprint when stored.
I think you should design one for us preppers. Like make one thats pack friendly man. This thing would send ya right to the bottom of tbe lake its so big. I want to live to get to other side of lake to use your rocket stove to save my life and make some freeze dried stew. Thats just my opinion. Its usually pretty opiinionated so dont let me rain on your fire. I think it's hot beans.
This is actually something I have given some serious thought to. An ultra light collapsible stove. But I just don't have the equipment to build them atm. But yes, my stoves are designed for permanent and semi-permanent camping. I wouldn't recommend backpacking with one of these.
@@steelforestweldingandforge i think your a good person with a good product. Its good to see people wanting to win over there customers without bad mouthing everyone who has diffrent opinion then them.. i look forward to seeing your rocket on the go stove in future. Stay free, stay prepped and stay busy.
How about trying a single round leg,diameter equal to distance between the legs of the model you knocked over,same material that the current legs are made from,welded with struts of the same to the base in at least 4 spots... this should prevent most tip-overs..???
Ok, took me a minute to understand what you were describing but I got it. One advantage to the leg style I have is they work fairly well on uneven ground and they are fairly quick and easy to fabricate.
How about adding an option of short (2"-3") rebar legs straight down off the 4 ends of each end of the two rebar stands. If the unit is intended for use outside the user could step into the loop of the leg and drive it into the dirt. It could still be used on a hard surface. OK derp, I just read the comment below. Ah well...
I saw a comment about the fuel can possibly catch fire and the fire travels upwards. This seems like a danger that's inherent in the designs across the industry. I know that the mitigation (for pellets) is to have a catch that pellets fall through but it still seems like a reverse burn is a possibility.
This has honestly never been a problem for me. In fact, i've seen a lot of stoves that instead of a forty five degree feed angle, the heavy ninety degree feed angle. I would assume it's just that because the draft is so powerful. This reverse burning isn't just a normal phenomenon. But by looking at rocket stove designs I could see why some people would have that concern.
Hope you see this. I'm out in the pacific north west. Every summer we get burn bans to prevent forest fires. But they allow gas burners while camping. Have you considered designing and testing a propane burner to run seasonally?
@wesleyshafer6310 No sorry I have not. If you're looking for input on a homemade burner , the only advice I can offer is look up something called a venturi burner.
This was a good, measured, response. I always thought the looped legs were so you could stake it to the ground so a wagging tail or a kid's frisbee didnt topple it over....I expressly looked for a stove that made that possible with ease.....pretty sure preppers have stakes ....lots of em LOL. I'm curious if you have any thoughts on that Giraffe Stove design ....looks like a lot of hinges..... sure takes up a lot of room. Pellet stoves are somthing I'm curious about as well.... the idea of a 5-7 hour hopper feed literally and figuratively gives me warm feelings. .....but the ash-out is my biggest concern .....a good ash removal system actually matters more to me as a sustainability and reliability engineer than heating 5min faster and 30deg hotter. But I'm old school, calories and hydration and layers keep me warm.....stoves are a luxury. I dont suppose people on the forum complained the draft height needed to be adjustable for different densities of air (both altitude and humidity) .....something you absolutely should NOT be nitpicking on other people's behalf. If folks want an aerospike stove that has quantum encryped WiFi, slices bread, and weighs less than a can of soup.....let them put in the R&D time and $$$$.😅
The giraffe style stove design is something I'd never seen before prior to you mentioning it. Typically, with rocket stoves, the larger the chimney or draft, the more powerful it is. So assuming this thing is fairly airtight, I'd imagine it would be quite powerful. I could see too how you could take advantage of putting pots further away from the heat source to have a slower and gentler heat. But I have no personal experience with this stove design. I am currently working on a pellet insert for my stoves. But i'm still prototyping. Thanks for watching.
Watching the history Channel alone, I have seen many people lose their food in their campfires, so a stove tipping over is an issue. The stove you tipped over could be braced with large stones to prevent this. If you want to improve your rocket stove legs, could you punch and drill holes in the legs so that steaks can be driven through them into the ground so that it could take a big hit?
Yes I have. With the feedback I have had from clients, no one typically runs them long enough to produce large amounts of ash. Combustion is also almost 100% when the stove is running well. Most ash powder is so fine, it blows away.
Good looking stoves how good the work i have to see a couple burns to decide. The rocking is unacceptable for a stove that produces pans of boiling water and much heat and smoke I know. "my stove is smokeless !!! Knock it over or restrict the air too much and wach it smoke like a coal locomotive!!! .Widen the legs about 4 inches you can make them slide out for transport.and tap the ends for a bolt with a flat metal plate on the bottom for extremely easy leveling in all unlevel situations. I see suggestions for spikes on the bottom to drive into the ground, wont work what if you are on large uneaven rocks or concrete, Or tailgate? .Another for flat washers to drive a tentstake trough the hole into the ground , wont work if on uneaven rocks, concrete or a tailgate. One guy said longer rebars flat on the bottom.better stability yes, Only good for perfect level ground . Shims suck on any situation. Another said 3 legs, no good more prone to tipping, only good on level ground. I have made at least 15 different rocket stove trying to find the best. all i can tell you is there is no perfect ones the all have qwirks. None heat stuff faster then a camp fire, its wood flames about the same temperature. Rocketstove smaller then campfire so less heat. 😢. Most important to me is not having to do a lot of work to make one and not having to fuss with the fire, lots of rocket stoves burn uneaven and you have to often adjust the wood to sustain good burn. You are going to laugh the best portable rocket stove i found is also the easiest to make. A 20 inch long 4 or 5 or 6 inch 5 inch best diameter section of stainless steel round stovepipe for the horizontal bottom combo wood and air pipe. One ss ellbow. One ss pipe between 10 inches or however tall you want it for chimmney, make the legs out of whatever you dream up. You can simply set this stove on the ground without any kind of legs and bury the bottom in sand or gravel to stabilize it and presto your done for just heat you are done, for cooking make a thingamajig for the top to hold a pot and let the heat and smoke out. No welding all you need is to cut the pipe , can make thingamajig and legs with bolts and nuts and a drill and hacksaw. This pulls appart or assembles in seconds. does not have to be stainless. Warning the first fire make it hot and stay out of the toxic smoke if using galvanized pipe until galvanizing burns off, hot fire or put in campfire burns it of fast. 😊 4 inch woodmiser, 5 inch medium, 6 inch roaring beast. Round wood best needs airspaces between wood for good low smoke burns. When using chopped wood chop wood into different shapes, triangles, flat, sqare, rectangles, round, and whatever. So as to create air spaces for good clean burn if overloaded all rocketstoves smoke like hell. If want to u can feed 8 foot long sticks shove in when burned up. Reverse fire, the most smokeless, fill stove with wood drop burning paper and twigs down chimney fire will burn mostly smokeless toward front. you should not use wet wood. For longer burn also fill chimmney with wood light the top nice long fire that you can cook almost anything whitout having to adjust or even touch the wood to keep fire going youll get a complete burn at least an hour never taking hands out of pockets. I was homeless for 8 years during that i cooked thousnds of meals on rocket stoves i made. I don't care about looks at all but i hate messing with the fire and i can tell you most rocket stoves burn up the available wood so fast in a small burn chamber, you have to feed it and fuss with it, my stovepipe rocketstoves burn chamber is from one end all the way to the other end if loaded correctly its the most steady fire i have seen. For cooking scrambled eggs and bacon i only load the 10 inch vertical pipe and upper half of the ellbow that's more then enough wood for that. Look there are drawbacks to anything you can only fill this Stove 2 times then the ash gets too much and has to be emptied but thats after a couple of hrs or more of hot fire. For a simple no legs very good rocketstove you could build in a hr or less this is simply the best. I think. This is not as nice looking as this channels owners nor will it last as long being made out of simple stovepipe because of the heat it eats the metal fast supcan rocket stoves last about 7 to 12 good burns. Iron stovepipe mabe 150_200 burns. Stainless steel 500 or more or less depends on quality of ss. I like ss becausr of not rusting aleays clean. This channels stoves are made of thicker steel materials so the will last much longer. I have only made stoves for my personal use and do not sell any. The reason i posted this long is because i really like how nice this guys stoves look and i respect and know how much work he puts into these stoves before the can be sold.
I'm flattered that you like.my design. However, sorry to disapoint.. But I'll probably never do a complete video on how I build my stoves. There's lots of rocket stove videos already, and the few tweaks I've put into my stoves are a trade secret :)
@@knowGodbyandby There are rocket stoves designed for heating. There is usually some kind of coil or angled piping to allow the heat to diffuse out before the exhaust clears the tent. But like any stove inside attempt you have to be very careful. Carbon monoxide poisoning is always a possibility
I was going to make one very similar to this, but never got to it. Mine was going to have T legs on back, and a single on front, so it would be a tripod. One thing to make it better, would be to send me one for free! Then it would be AWESOME! 😂😂😂
Those prepper guys can be crazy all right, I had not thought of using them for the "Test Case" but I bet that is correct, if they cannot tear it up, it is probably indestructible. I think they could destroy an Anvil in 8 feet of water. How much do you Stoves sell for?? BB
I agree, the prepper community it brutally honest. and I love that. PM me for prices either on Instagram or Facebook. Details are in the video description.
HTD should be 1:3 for average stability. I.E. 30” high stove would require a 10” wide base. Obviously this totally depends on your application and your intended level of risk mitigation.
Good to know. The reason these are designed the way they are is for transportation and easy fabrication. A larger base adds a lot more to shipping costs, and makes it more difficult to transport in the field.
hey, i had a question. i am looking into making my own stove and i was wondering if you can tell me how the "K" design works and is better than the "L" models. like in your eariler builds you were using an "L" model, why the "K" does it need to have a feeder tube and a large air intake tube. thanks for your time. -don
Good questions. The L models I made earlier were made from 2.5 inch tubing and was just to small. I recommend at least 3 inch tubing. L models give much more control with fuel consumption, but require much more fire maintenance. K models, it's basically dump and go. With any fire, the more air, the hotter it gets. But I have seen K models with a combo air and fuel hopper.
I'd design a better base that is larger and more stable. Maybe make it removable so you could just slide in into place. Your base is not always concrete and hard so you will want the stove to be good and solid, not easy to tip over like these. Or maybe carry a steel plate to set the stove on?!
I saw someone use pieces of the tube for the stove as legs. It may work if you used the part of the tube for the wood intake that you cut of and weld it to the bottom in 45 or more degrees to zhe outside. I dont know how well it works tho.
I think your stove looks good. I assume that the bottom tube is an air intake. I found that there will be a cold draft at that point, Consider putting the intake on the back so that your feet don't chill. My designs pull the air to the front and then back to the combustion chamber while pre warming it. If you try it let me know what you think.
Thank you, yes the bottom tube is air intake. I understand your concept of pre warming the air, I'm just Is having trouble visualizing your design. But you have peaked my interest. Any chance you have a picture or a video somewhere?
@@steelforestweldingandforge Sorry no I don't have a picture or video. Let me illustrate the concept. let's say you add another tube to the bottom making the necessary changes to allow the air to come in at the back bottom flow forward then up then back the existing tube to the combustion chamber. I am currently making a horizontal barrel stove with a door on the front. The combustion air comes in the back and flows thru tube steel under the fire (edit: located inside the barrel) to the front where it is released having been pre heated into the combustion chamber and flows back thru the fire and out the stove pipe / chimney. Then additionally I add an after burner chamber with its own pre heated combustion air via tube steel running thru the primary combustion chamber to achieve a "rocket" effect and "smoke free" low smoke fire.
Functionality there is no difference between square or round tubing. The big difference is square tubing is much easier to fabricate than round. Layout, marking, and squaring are much easier. The only advantage to round tubing I can think of is that it cuts much easier than square tubing.
I would love to make one but don't have welder. You said you have to really give it a push for it to go over. What if you had two rods in upside down "V" free to move when tilted to prevent a total tip over of the stove itself. Just asking. Not an engineer.
I have seen people make these out of threaded piping. Maybe you can go that route. I do sell these if you are interested. I don't mind constructive criticism at all. If I'm invisioning your upside down v idea correctly, the main issue would be the legs sinking into soft earth. Thanks for watching.
Absolutely, yes you could. However, titanium is VERY expensive. But if you're willing to put in the investment I could see it being a very good material.
what is your opinion about using outside cold air for carbeuration, or instead to “Pre-heat” somehow, the air that is going to be used for carbeuration.
The simpler you can make your design the better. You'll definitely need to put a screen in between the fuel and the bottom of the stove so the ash and small coals can fall through. Make sure the holes aren't too big or otherwise the coals won't pile up to create heat and you'll have a weak fire. Easiest design would probably be a small door with a built in tray, either on the back of the stove or the side.
@@steelforestweldingandforge a simple stovepipe rocked stove I describe in the comments produces lots of charcoal because the fire burns so fast it gets past unburned wood then there is no oxygen left and the unburnt wood turns into charcoal . If I want to I can extend my burn by a lot after all the wood is done by burning the charcoal witch will now burn because the charcoal now gets oxygen but if you want to save it you can.
@@steelforestweldingandforgeI tested this and it does not work well if you fully load the burn chamber lightly with air spaces in between I e natural round sticks I get the best burn but all rocket stoves are not the same so it may work great in yours.
